[mazdat02]

I am right in the middle of this swap and waiting for my engine and trans to be delivered.

I also couldn't get the driver's side axle out prior to pulling the engine. I used my 1 Ton Engine Crane that had plenty of stick to clear the rad support but I did pull the bumper skin.

Like others I bought a Ford 2.5L "A" vin engine that has 41K miles. Since my original trans has 170k miles I opted for a lower mile trans from LKQ. Since I bought the engine and trans from them I got a discount and paid less than $1k for the pair (shipped).

I've done engine and trans swaps on Subarus so I wasn't intimated tackling this job. Of course I'll re-evaluate that once the new engine arrives and I get the timing done.

So far the most difficult part was making a brace to break the crank bolt loose (I needed 2 pieces of flat stock). I finally got ahold of Milan08 and scored one of his adapter plates...I didn't want to take a chance with using silicone, etc to close any gaps between the intake and head. More to come once I get her put back together.

I forgot. ..I contacted Orangevirus about a $99 base tune and they told me they didn't offer that option. I'm going with the 2.3L ECU and 2.5L injectors as recommended by others who have done this swap successfully.

Nice, good find on the engine/trans. Good call on getting that intake adapter plate, no messing around with it in the end. Id hate to pull of the intake more than needed. What did you decide for a clutch?

As for the tune, I guess things have changed on their end since ive talked to them initially about it.

 

[optimusprime]

What did you decide for a clutch?

I've always used Exedy or Spec for street applications and on my endurance track car respectively, but very tempted to try the Bahnhof kit. I'm on a tight budget with this project so saving $25 here or there adds up. Given the pressure plate is original (as was the entire clutch kit ):surprise: I'm going to replace the pressure plate. The flywheel looks good, no obvious hot spots.

As for the adapter plate, yeah I was glad I could get in touch with him. I believe he had 3 plates left when he and I were emailing back and forth a few weeks ago. I did consider one from Weapon-R that Antics posted in the other 2.5L swap thread, but decided to go with Milan's plate even though it was a little more.

 

[antics]

I used the Exedy Stage 1 and it's good. Pedal is a bit heavyier than stock but not obnoxiously heavy and takeup is smooth.

There was a guy selling an Exedy Stage 1 ceramic disk clutch on here a while back, I would have bought it in a heartbeat when I was doing my swap. Might be worth looking to see if he's still got it.

 

[hogi13]

I have a question. Why did you change the rear main seal?

 

[antics]

I have a question. Why did you change the rear main seal?

People do that as preventative maintenance. If it starts leaking down the road it's much more difficult to replace. A leaking rear main can also contaminate your clutch.

 

[hogi13]

People do that as preventative maintenance. If it starts leaking down the road it's much more difficult to replace. A leaking rear main can also contaminate your clutch.

That is what I thought. Thanks!

 

[mazdat02]

I have a question. Why did you change the rear main seal?

Yes correct, preventative maintenance. Though the first gasket I ordered turned out to not have the alignment sleeve for the rear main, And was installed incorrectly because i wasn't aware of needing one since the gasket literally centers ont the crank and bolts in. drip drip after a few k

 

[optimusprime]

Yes correct, preventative maintenance. Though the first gasket I ordered turned out to not have the alignment sleeve for the rear main, And was installed incorrectly because i wasn't aware of needing one since the gasket literally centers ont the crank and bolts in. drip drip after a few k

Good to know about the alignment sleeve...I didn't realize one was needed, but I haven't looked at the install procedure in the FSM either. I hesitated on buying one but decided it was cheap insurance but I'll be looking for the alignment tool when the part arrives.


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[mazdat02]

Good to know about the alignment sleeve...I didn't realize one was needed, but I haven't looked at the install procedure in the FSM either. I hesitated on buying one but decided it was cheap insurance but I'll be looking for the alignment tool when the part arrives.

This is the sleeve (SST). Basically you align it with the crank. the tool slides onto the crank, and you slide the seal towards the block, it will slip onto the crank surface as you pull the sleeve away. Just remember, after you're all said and done, the lip of the seal should be pointing TOWARDS the engine.



* Added to write-up

 

[optimusprime]

Thanks for adding the picture and detail. I'll get the gasket from Mazda since the one from Rock Auto didn't come with the tool.

On a separate note, neither intake cams had the thin $12 washer. I know it didn't fall out...I did the disassembly on the work bench.


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[mazdat02]

Thanks for adding the picture and detail. I'll get the gasket from Mazda since the one from Rock Auto didn't come with the tool.

On a separate note, neither intake cams had the thin $12 washer. I know it didn't fall out...I did the disassembly on the work bench.

Consider those diamond washers for the cams as a revision by mazda. My 05 didn't have them, but on the 06+ you do see them.

Also, the part number I listed at the top is the one I used (and it came with the sst). Thats if you don't want to pay oem prices. 15,000k on the gasket and no leaks (http://www.amazon.com/Victor-Reinz-67756-Rear-Main/dp/B008PLGAR8)

 

[optimusprime]

Consider those diamond washers for the cams as a revision by mazda. My 05 didn't have them, but on the 06+ you do see them.

Also, the part number I listed at the top is the one I used (and it came with the sst). Thats if you don't want to pay oem prices. 15,000k on the gasket and no leaks (Amazon.com: Victor Reinz 67756 Rear Main Seal: Automotive)

Excellent, thanks!

 

[SpecialEd]

Did you use the 2.5l coil packs and boots on your swap? The 2011 Fusion 2.5l I got has 2 wire coil packs and my 2006 2.3l MZR coil packs are 3 wire. I also cannot use the 2011 valve cover with the old coil packs since the mounting holes do not line up.

I'm also unsure if the timing cover would need to be swapped from my 2006 2.3l to the 2011 2.5l, they appear to be identical.

You didn't by chance happen to get any pictures of the crankshaft position sensor mounted on either engine did you?

 

[mazdat02]

Did you use the 2.5l coil packs and boots on your swap? The 2011 Fusion 2.5l I got has 2 wire coil packs and my 2006 2.3l MZR coil packs are 3 wire. I also cannot use the 2011 valve cover with the old coil packs since the mounting holes do not line up.

I'm also unsure if the timing cover would need to be swapped from my 2006 2.3l to the 2011 2.5l, they appear to be identical.

You didn't by chance happen to get any pictures of the crankshaft position sensor mounted on either engine did you?

The 2.5 i received had its valve cover cracked and the coil packs removed, so yes i reused my 2.3 coilpacks and valve cover. I did have to notch out the very center of the valve cover to accommodate the water temperature sensor since it sticks-out farther than the plane of the valve cover.

I didnt take pictures but i will update the procedure. With the engine at tdc, the bolt for the crank pully installed into the valve cover, you position the middle of the face of the crank sensor to the middle of the 5th tooth to the left of the first empty space on the pulse wheel



Did you get a Mazda 2.5 then? if the valve cover and crank pulley is identical you dont have to touch anything, replacing the valve cover is more to do to having the crank sensor, idler pulley, alternator mount, ect. in the correct mounting spots along with the process of replacing the intake cam/adding friction washers and the general procedure of a 04/05 year type swap.

Unless you want to replace gaskets/seals/and check the overall condition of the engine, then you would want to crack it open.

If you are unsure, you can always take a few pictures for us to confirm too.

 

[SpecialEd]

I'll get some pics up tonight of what I have so far.

 

[antics]

Did you use the 2.5l coil packs and boots on your swap? The 2011 Fusion 2.5l I got has 2 wire coil packs and my 2006 2.3l MZR coil packs are 3 wire. I also cannot use the 2011 valve cover with the old coil packs since the mounting holes do not line up.

I'm also unsure if the timing cover would need to be swapped from my 2006 2.3l to the 2011 2.5l, they appear to be identical.

You didn't by chance happen to get any pictures of the crankshaft position sensor mounted on either engine did you?

My 05 wiring harness took the 2 wire coils so I used the ones that came with the 2.5. You'll have to reuse your 2.3 coils. Many of the people that did this swap did them on 05s, there are some extra kinks to work out on 06+ cars.

 

[optimusprime]

My 2.5L did not come with coils so I'll be using the 2.3s. I planned on using a dremmel to cut clip on the sensor Ford puts in the 2.5L head vs. Drilling a hole in the 2.3L valve cover. 6 or 1 half dozen...either way.

For Mazdat02 and Antics, did you use the Ford knock sensor? The clip is the same as my '05 harness. Did you use the Ford PCV or Mazda?

These are two things I wouldn't want to replace with the engine in the car.

 

[antics]

I used the Mazda PCV valve because the flexible rubber hose to connect to the intake manifold was easier to work with. The Ford knock sensor plugged up fine so I left it, haven't gotten any trouble codes from it.

 

[SpecialEd]

Here is how the crank pos sensor lined up on the Ford timing cover:

Another angle:

How cam timing lined up before and after crank pulley install:

What sensor is this and is it installed correctly? (I am not 100% sure that went on right)

Thousands of shavings this size in my oil pan:

 

[SpecialEd]

I'm about to install the starter and the wiring harness is all that's left before I go to drop it back in the engine bay.

GP-Werks oil pan baffle and BSD on its way so bottom end will be finalized with engine in the car.