[Downermazda]

Because the crank gear is held in time by the use of friction washers and the pressure of the crank pulley. If you remove the crank bolt without the cams and the crank located in the correct spot and held with the holding tools the cams can rotate separately from the crank. The crank pulley also has the tone wheel for the crank position sensor on it so if the crank pulley is not place correctly on the crankshaft it will not start.

 

[Mazdanutt26]

Thank you! It all makes sense now.

 

[roboto65]

The crank pulley is not keyed on the crankshaft so it can be tightened anywhere on the crank so it has to be locked and then tightened very tight there is write ups all over this forum about the procedure. And on YT

 

[lamazrcool]

• So was ur Mazda already a manual ?

• I have an automatic will my parts list be the same if not what'd be easier keeping it automatic or converting to manual?

• and if converting to manual will be cheaper and easier what parts do I need to add to my list?

• and where do I get the tuning software?

 

[Slurpee]

Hello!
Thanks so much for such an awesome and detailed write up. Is anyone still watching this post?
I have a 2007 Mazda 3 2.0 that just died.
When I purchased the car I was told it was a 2.3 so I bought a 2011 fusion 2.5 to put into it. Once I started the tear down work I realized it’s an 2.0 and am now having a hard time figuring out if a 2.0 to 2.5L swap is actually possible and if so what needs to be done differently from a 2.3-2.5L swap.

Can anyone tell me what they’ve done or point me to a thread with the info I need.
Much appreciated!

 

[VWandDodge]

Hello!
Thanks so much for such an awesome and detailed write up. Is anyone still watching this post?
I have a 2007 Mazda 3 2.0 that just died.
When I purchased the car I was told it was a 2.3 so I bought a 2011 fusion 2.5 to put into it. Once I started the tear down work I realized it’s an 2.0 and am now having a hard time figuring out if a 2.0 to 2.5L swap is actually possible and if so what needs to be done differently from a 2.3-2.5L swap.

Can anyone tell me what they’ve done or point me to a thread with the info I need.
Much appreciated!

Yes, a 2.0 to 2.5 swap is possible. Did you read all 16 prior pages of this thread? I think there is mention of that in this thread; otherwise, you may need to search for more swap threads. Several members have swapped a 2.5 for their 2.0 in the last several years and documented their efforts.

 

[roboto65]

Well got the swap done runs great albeit a little surging at idle. I am a DUMBASS though ! I was told by the yard guy and took them out myself. I then put them back to keep the intake ports clean, then proceeded to put the intake on without taking the blue PAPERTOWELS out of the intake ports. What a dumbass I am anyway, after trying to start it and troubleshooting, I pulled the injectors because I left the 2.5 injectors in there and was going to swap out with the 2.3 injectors. I saw the damn paper towels in there. SON OF $#@%^
So after digging out all the paper towel bits yes some got in the valves. It ran it revs great did the BSD and again left the 2.5 injectors in there. I think the surging is the computer learning injectors so will run it a bit before troubleshooting the surge.

 

[eyeballor]

Looking for mechanic: 2006 3 2.3L (sitting since Sept 2018) --> rod knock (sound @ 120k miles) --> thinking engine swap.

I can't seem to find a mechanic that's willing to do an engine swap in Washington State (around pierce county), and I wish i had the skills/tools to do an engine swap myself. I've done tons of research and this is the best write-up i've seen yet.

Any support would be very helpful.

 

[Slurpee]

Thanks!
I did some more research and have an 2.5 in my car now.

It starts and runs beautifully. I just can’t find an accessory belt that fits!!!
Does anyone on this thread know what belt length I need?

Heres what I did:

Used a 2011 Fusion 2.5L block with these parts from the original 2.0 accessory system: crankshaft pulley, alternator, water pump pulley and tensioner.

I thought maybe the pulleys from the 2.0 and 2.3/5 might be different but I cross referenced them and they are all the same.

As for belts, I have tried the original belt from the 2.0L, 6K514 and it’s too long.
The belt for a 2.3/2.5 is a 6K520 and is even longer.

I have also tried :
6K500, it’s too long.
6K480, it’s too short
6PK1245, it’s too short.

I’m waiting on a 6K490 to show up as my last hope…

Can anyone see any pieces I am missing?

Why would a belt from the 2.3 not work with this configuration? I did end up using the 2.5 Ford timing cover because my 2.0 was too short to fit and I didn’t have access to a 2.3. Everything for the mounts looked and measured the same as far as I could tell. Regardless all the pulleys and pieces that bolt for the accessory belt bolt directly on to the block so I don’t think that should change anything.

What’s hanging me up!?

ARGHHHHHHH!!!!!!

 

[VWandDodge]

Thanks!
I did some more research and have an 2.5 in my car now.

It starts and runs beautifully. I just can’t find an accessory belt that fits!!!
Does anyone on this thread know what belt length I need?

Heres what I did:

Used a 2011 Fusion 2.5L block with these parts from the original 2.0 accessory system: crankshaft pulley, alternator, water pump pulley and tensioner.

I thought maybe the pulleys from the 2.0 and 2.3/5 might be different but I cross referenced them and they are all the same.

As for belts, I have tried the original belt from the 2.0L, 6K514 and it’s too long.
The belt for a 2.3/2.5 is a 6K520 and is even longer.

I have also tried :
6K500, it’s too long.
6K480, it’s too short
6PK1245, it’s too short.

I’m waiting on a 6K490 to show up as my last hope…

Can anyone see any pieces I am missing?

Why would a belt from the 2.3 not work with this configuration? I did end up using the 2.5 Ford timing cover because my 2.0 was too short to fit and I didn’t have access to a 2.3. Everything for the mounts looked and measured the same as far as I could tell. Regardless all the pulleys and pieces that bolt for the accessory belt bolt directly on to the block so I don’t think that should change anything.

What’s hanging me up!?

ARGHHHHHHH!!!!!!

Serious question: Are you positive you've been properly routing the belt? Misrouting the proper belt can result in either too much belt or not enough belt. BTDT on a stock application when replacing the belt.

 

[scotthenneyllp]

By far the most complete post ice found anywhere online. Thank you so much

 

[scotthenneyllp]

Thanks!
I did some more research and have an 2.5 in my car now.

It starts and runs beautifully. I just can’t find an accessory belt that fits!!!
Does anyone on this thread know what belt length I need?

Heres what I did:

Used a 2011 Fusion 2.5L block with these parts from the original 2.0 accessory system: crankshaft pulley, alternator, water pump pulley and tensioner.

I thought maybe the pulleys from the 2.0 and 2.3/5 might be different but I cross referenced them and they are all the same.

As for belts, I have tried the original belt from the 2.0L, 6K514 and it’s too long.
The belt for a 2.3/2.5 is a 6K520 and is even longer.

I have also tried :
6K500, it’s too long.
6K480, it’s too short
6PK1245, it’s too short.

I’m waiting on a 6K490 to show up as my last hope…

Can anyone see any pieces I am missing?

Why would a belt from the 2.3 not work with this configuration? I did end up using the 2.5 Ford timing cover because my 2.0 was too short to fit and I didn’t have access to a 2.3. Everything for the mounts looked and measured the same as far as I could tell. Regardless all the pulleys and pieces that bolt for the accessory belt bolt directly on to the block so I don’t think that should change anything.

What’s hanging me up!?

ARGHHHHHHH!!!!!!

Faulty tensioner?

 

[Jacksonfaulstick]

I know I’m late to all this but does the difference in 1st and 2nd gen matter for this swap? What generations of the 2.5 duratec work?

 

[coletorgerson0]

Hello,
Great write up! Does the timing cover on the 2.5 need to be replaced with a 2.3 timing cover? Also, does the engine need to be at TDC to start? I had it at TDC before installing the torque converter and transmission (Automatic). Had to rotate the engine to get everything lined up.
I know I've timed everything correctly. I'm on my second 2.5 as the first one seized up on me. I was very diligent this time around and I learned what needed to be done to time the 2.5 properly. Engine is in the car and everything is hooked up and plugged in but, it will not start. No click from the starter but I want to eliminate anything else that could be cause an issue.
Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

[nandomanofutah]

Hello All,

Looks like this hasn't been active recently, but hoping for a long shot. I was recently able to complete the swap from my 2.3 to a junkyard 2.5 I found. The car was in an accident and everything else pointed to it being a well maintained vehicle. After getting everything put in and plugged up I have been unable to get spark, I think. I pulled all the coils and plugs and asked someone to look in the dark for spark as well as replacing the plugs with a screwdriver and putting it near metal to cause a spark. Car just cranks and cranks without sputtering or changes to the rhythm it's creating. I pulled the plugs and tested for spark and have been unable to get a spark with the coils and plugs that came with the engine or the coils and plugs, that I know work, off my 2.3. I've re-run the wiring harness twice and I'm all out of ideas after checking all the grounds. My biggest fear is that I broke a wire within my harness, but I'm not sure how that would have happened. About halfway back through this thread someone mentioned using an engine that had such bad compression they had the same issue as me, but I could definitely feel the engine I pulled from the yard building and releasing compression when I turned the crank.

I also noticed the instructions are for a manual car. I hope I didn't miss something somewhere that explains why this won't work for an automatic...

Any ideas or places to inspect would be greatly appreciated!

Was it the big gray plug by the camshaft position sensor? I'm having the same issue right now and i've checked everything and still nothing.

 

[coletorgerson0]

Was it the big gray plug by the camshaft position sensor? I'm having the same issue right now and i've checked everything and still nothing.

Check the blue plug to the fuse box. I had an issue where it wasn't fully seated all the way. Fired right up after that.

 

[fill-up99]

Hello everyone,
My son and I just finished putting a 2016 Ford 2.5l into our 2007 Mazda 3, replacing the 2.3l. We REALLY appreciate everyone who posted to make it go so smooth. The car drives amazing.

We have one lingering issue. I want to ask, for those of you who experienced intake leaks, did any of them have a high pitch whistle? It seems to be coming from the front passenger corner of the engine, and is combined with a P2187 code "System too lean at idle." I briefly ran the engine without the serpentine belt to rule out failing pulleys. The whistle does not change if I take off the oil cap or dipstick. The 2.3l intake manifold is installed with an adapter plate, paper gasket (with copper spray sealant). The whistle goes away when accelerating but comes back when cruising at a steady speed. It slowly dies away a couple seconds after cutting the engine.

My next step is to try black RTV along the top of the intake manifold junction like someone did in one of the How-to's, but wanted to see if anyone ran into a similar issue and found a solution.

 

[Grendel65]

You have an intake leak.
you may need to do a smoke test to find exactly where it is?

 

[coletorgerson0]

Hello everyone,
My son and I just finished putting a 2016 Ford 2.5l into our 2007 Mazda 3, replacing the 2.3l. We REALLY appreciate everyone who posted to make it go so smooth. The car drives amazing.

We have one lingering issue. I want to ask, for those of you who experienced intake leaks, did any of them have a high pitch whistle? It seems to be coming from the front passenger corner of the engine, and is combined with a P2187 code "System too lean at idle." I briefly ran the engine without the serpentine belt to rule out failing pulleys. The whistle does not change if I take off the oil cap or dipstick. The 2.3l intake manifold is installed with an adapter plate, paper gasket (with copper spray sealant). The whistle goes away when accelerating but comes back when cruising at a steady speed. It slowly dies away a couple seconds after cutting the engine.

My next step is to try black RTV along the top of the intake manifold junction like someone did in one of the How-to's, but wanted to see if anyone ran into a similar issue and found a solution.

I assume you didn't do the VTCS delete on IM. Get a smoke test done.

 

[fill-up99]

I assume you didn't do the VTCS delete on IM. Get a smoke test done.

Correct, haven't done the VTCS delete yet. Thanks for the tip!