Three things to help others: Belt Wear, Belt Size, Tool Choice
Three things to help others: Belt Wear, Belt Size, Tool Choice
Belt wear: after 92K I decided to replace both the AC belt and Serpentine Belts proactively. Upon doing so, neither stock belts showed any cracking at all! While I have peace of mind from replacing them, it does not appear to have been necessary.
Belt Size: AC belt stock is marked as a 5K694. The replacement belt I was sold was a 5k691. With a relatively small belt, those missing 3mm probably made it a fair bit harder to install the replacement. I cannot report the stock size for the serpentine as the numbers are fully worn off.
Tool Choice
I wanted to report on using the Lisle tool. The tool itself seems well made and seems quite suitable for the purpose but it does not work well on a 2007 Mazda 3, 2.3L for the AC belt.
The problem is that the tool is too large for the space you have to work in. It catches on the tubing at the top of the wheel well as you try to rotate it around the crank shaft pulley.
Which is too bad because the design shape and magnet seem to be superior to the alternatives.
Before reading further, if you have not purchased a tool yet, get one of the others. If you want to try making one, or already have the Lisle tool and want to want to know how to still use it then read on.
I tried the tool on the AC pulley where there is room to use it. That did not work because of the clutch design and the lack of adequate tension on that pulley to keep the tool attached.
I was able to finally, with lots of forcing, get the Lisle tool to somewhat work by using it counter clockwise on the crank shaft pulley. It helps to reach from the front of the car and use a ratchet for this. Wear a long sleeve shirt to prevent scraping your arm!
Unfortunately, the resultant belt install only mated 4 of 5 ribs to the pulley. One rib was off of both pulleys. Trying to run the Lisle tool around again did not work because the off center belt forced the tool to be even further outwards from the pulley and it fully caught on the tubing making it impossible to rotate through.
Trying to carefully manually force the belt over onto either pulley did not work nor did actually running the car.
So, what to do? Make a new tool!
I cut open a large soup can (3 1/4" diameter) using the top rim and about a 1" x 2.5" section, bent the rim to be a new belt guide, and used some tool-tray liner (sticky rubber stuff) to bind the shim/tool to the pulley. Hand cranking this through worked like a charm and aligned the belt properly to the pulley right away.
In fact, this worked so well that I think this approach would have worked to install the belt to start with.
I will attach photos.
Please note, after the "tool" was run through the belt/pulley, it was flattened somewhat. Be more aggressive on the bends than was you see in the photos. Also, bend at a diagonal so that it narrows from one side to another.