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How can you tell if you have a boost leak w/a Greddy/ATP BOV flange?

1.1K views 2 replies 3 participants last post by  ekanddsm  
#1 ·
I have an 07 ms3 with a turboXS FMIC, CPE SRI, Cobb turbo inlet, and a Greddy BOV with the ATP turbo/street unit adapter flange. I had an issue the first time around (before the FMIC & turbo inlet got installed), and the first flange I had didn't seal properly. It was thin, and it took a bit of effort until I eventually got a perfect seal without any boost leaks. This is all while I was still running a TMIC and no turbo inlet btw.
I could tell I had a leak at that time because of the sound, and the loss of power. I used locktite, I think it's called, because I stripped the threads on the flange and it eventually fixed the problem completely. The sound went back to what I would consider normal and the power was back. I had it dyno'd and it made wonderful power.

Then I installed a TurboXS FMIC, and had an issue with the flange. I ordered a new flange, and ATP is making their new flanges twice as thick with a rubber gasket on both sides. Good. It needed some improving. I also installed the Cobb turbo inlet. I know there was a leak at first, but if there's a leak now, its not severe.
However, it still feels like my car isn't making the power it should. Without taking it back to the dyno, how can I tell if I might still have a boost leak at the BOV seal? The sound is deceiving, because I don't know if it's the FMIC piping combined with the new turbo inlet I'm hearing, or if it's a lingering boost leak at the flange. The turboXS intercooler and piping is larger than necessary, so it's possible I'm experiencing the power loss from that. How can I tell if I still have a boost leak? I have a boost gauge, and as far as I can tell, it holds boost at around 12-14ish psi. As a last resort, I probably will be taking it back to the dyno. I want to anyway. Ever since the first boost leak, I swear I'm paranoid. How can I figure this out?

Help!

Marcus
 
#2 ·
well i mean you said you had a boost gauge, and it was around 12 to 14ish arent the speeds from the factory 16psi? and if your going back to the dyno, what an easier way to check, while there doing a pull depding on how bad of leak if any, you could feel the air or spray some water and you will see it bubble
 
#3 ·
Remove turbo inlet,
Build yourself a adapter that has a tire valve stem attached to it
Garb your air compressor
install adapter into turbo inlet, and pressurize to 2-3 psi above operating psi
listen for hissing, I grab windex or simple green and spray stuff down since it will bubble when the cleaners hit air.

When you find you leak, fix it.

Wash off the engine with a hose, and start it up to clear the water out.