It's on the slave cylinder on the transmission, if you have a stock airbox, yes you will not see it from the top, but should find it from below.

It definitely wouldn't hurt. Don't forget the reason why most fluids get replaced in cars over time (or should be) is because they begin to turn acidic in some form or another, and eat away at seals etc. and just carry particulate around with them that is damaging.

Definitely go ahead and do it. Treat it just like a brake, just... use the right pedal (Or is it left? haha)

 

I never flush brake fluid (sort of). What I do, is when I replace brake pads, I release old fluid from caliper and then, I flush some more to finish installation, and top it off with fresh fluid (by the time you finish 4 wheels most of your fluid will be new). I had many high mileage cars and never a problem with brake lines. Although I had couple of calipers going bad but this is age related - those cars were 15years old. And since all my cars were manuals, I really never touched the clutch fluid. One of the reason why brake fluid goes bad is because it gets really hot in calipers. I don't think in clutch slave cylinder it gets nearly hot. You will not hurt anything by replacing your fluid but this is automotive sadomasochism to do it every 2 or even 4 years. Fluids these days are really good. Look at the schedule to replace transmission fluid (which is regular motor oil) in manual cars. It is long long time. Because in tranny motor oil doesn't go through heat and dirty environment as in the engine.

 

I'm not sure how easy it's going to be to flush your clutch fluid. There's no reservoir that I've seen, so keeping air out is going to be tough. Some car clutch lines are designed to be changed out whole with the fluid inside (stupid design if you ask me).

If you aren't having any problems, then I'd leave it alone. The fluid doesn't really get hot and it's not exposed to moisture so it should be fine for a loooong time.

 

Both of you... that's horrible advice!

And like I said; it's just as easy as brakes. Just... use the clutch pedal.
Brake fluid goes in brake reservoir, crack nipple on the slave, have someone push down the clutch, and bleed it just like a brake.

 

Listen to XCNuse, he is correct. I did not realize that the reservoir is shared between the brake and clutch fluid. SO yes, definitely go ahead and flush your clutch fluid because it is as simple as your brakes.

AND ignore my last comment. Some cars actually do not have a reservoir for the clutch line which would have made it almost impossible to flush, but that is not the case here. I'll check next time before I comment. My bad guys.

 

We're all entitled to our opinions. Here is one more thing I would say - look into your scheduled maintenance guide. If it doesn't say that you have to drain clutch/brake fluid, you don't have to do it. And if it says to replace brake fluid at some interval, do it for both - brake and clutch. I actually knew that it is shared fluid. This is not a new design. I had this as far back as 1987, when some clutches were still cable and spring.

 

scheduled maintenance also expects you to burn out and parts to break down though too lol; like I said, brake fluid over time will eat up seals as will any fluids in an engine. That's the point of replacing them, so they don't damage the item they're within.

 

Preventative maintenance is good no matter how you look at it. Yes it costs money and sometimes people are on the conservative side (such as changing fluids earlier than recommended if at all) but if you want things to definitely keep working, then it's never a bad choice.

 

As long as it doesn't become paranoia. And as long as it way cheaper than replace a part vs many preventative actions.
In my 98 Protege I had non-interference engine and I said from the start, "I will not change timing belt, if it breaks it breaks". It never broke in 195K miles and 16.5 years. As a matter of fact, I was replacing a valve cover gasket 15 years in, and belt looked good still. If I had followed manual and changed it preventatively, I would spend $600-700. Or I could wait it breaks, spend $100 for towing and $350 for repair. See the difference?

For the record - I do change filters, oil, spark plugs, etc on time. These have direct performance and reliability affect.