[wizzlebippi]

I just did this to my 2010 2.0l and everything is still very much like the guide. The VTCS solenoid is oriented vertically now, but that's pretty much it. Since there's only 17,000 miles on the car the square rod came out very easily. It was harder to remove the ball (now green) from the end of the rod, doing so actually pulled the rod out. I forgot to reconnect the solenoid when reassembling so it threw P2017: VTCS Solenoid Voltage out of Range. Otherwise it took about 4 hours and was very much straight forward.

There is one more step that I had to do to get all the bolts out. The air intake duct that holds onto the two coolant hoses must be removed. Also, I had to remove the fuel rail (no need to disconnect) to access the flap on the drivers side (#4 i think).

EDIT: One last thing. The VTCS flaps are held in place by the frames, not the rod. I highly recommend removing the rod while the manifold is attached to the block.

 

[ChrisThePlant]

[quote author=wizzlebippi link=topic=104068.msg4060687#msg4060687 date=1309369377]

EDIT: One last thing. The VTCS flaps are held in place by the frames, not the rod. I highly recommend removing the rod while the manifold is attached to the block.
[/quote]

GREAT suggestion. I wish I had thought of that when I did mine. I was moving the manifold all over the place trying to get it out, and actually rebolted a few bolts to do just that.

 

[wizzlebippi]

Initially, idle was a bit rough and the car was running way lean, but that could have been due to the 105+ temps outside. After taking the car on a road trip for the fourth, I can definitely say the car is producing more power. I picked up about 1MPG on the highway with the AC on and 3rd gear acceleration between 4000-6500RPM is noticeably improved.

For 4 hours of work and $0 invested, this mod is worth it.

 

[adumbrille]

Idle will always be rough for the first 3-5 times after you reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery. yeah it's a great mod

 

[noodles]

So I decided to do this free mod a couple days ago on my 2010 3 GT hatch. I have the 2.5L and apparently the intake manifold has changed slightly with the new gen. There are now only 7 bolts holding the mani on as opposed to the 8 before, the bottom bolt from the stacked pair is now gone, additionally the gaskets are now red and do not need to be taken out with the flap holder things. Lastly there is a Big change made to the VTCS solenoid. The position sensor is now a separate sensor that attaches to the end of the square rod thing. This means that the sensor changes position independently of the solenoid. The good news is that now the ball lever (ballever) can be taken out with the rod at the same time. I however did not know this when I did it.

To to get the sensor to rotate with the ballever I modified (shortened) the square bar so that the the ballever can turn the sensor when the solenoid is activated.

And then I reassembled the parts. The good news is that now the ballever can be taken out with the rod at the same time. I however did not know this when I did it.

My impression of this Mod is exactly what everybody else has been saying. Big difference in the mid range power as well as more smooth power delivery. I do have one question for people that have done this before; did anybody else have an asston of oil coating the flaps?

 

[adumbrille]

Yes sir I did. It's normal for oil to come through the PCV valve and coat the shit out of the intake manifold. I plan on installing a catch can next time my mani is off.

 

[stevo993]

ok i really want to do this mod, and im pretty good with working around the engine, however i have never really gone into the engine other than taking off the TB to cleen it. i love the whole free mod engine tweaking deal, and i have already done a TB ground advanced timing mod and TB coolant bypass and i feel i am ready for this. now all i need is a day with no plans. i have read the right up over and over again but still seems a little confusing, but i can figure it out. but are there any tips or pointers i should know that may cause any major problems. my mz3 is a 2004 2.3L hatch.

 

[adumbrille]

If you have any questions post them here and I'll answer quickly. (unemployed at the moment) lol. I've had the manifold off 4 times now, so I can help you with anything.

 

[stevo993]

alright sounds like i can count on you, ill possibly do it this weakend with my computer right there with me.

 

[adumbrille]

It's really not that bad, don't get all caught up in the guide, it makes it seem much harder than it actually is. Basically you just remove your intake, remove your throttle body, unbolt 8 bolts, unbolt the VTCS actuator, pull out the rod, pull out the flaps, reassemble. For a first timer, it should take 3-4 hours going slow.

While you're there, you might want to take off your EGR valve. It's something I did. It sticks out right in the airflow coming in from the throttle body.

It's that gold thing in this photo. See how it gets in the way?

You can unbolt it using a 22mm open end wrench, or a 22mm long socket. It won't throw any codes. The EGR port still remains open, it just doesn't protrude out into the airflow anymore.

Just something extra you can do. Might add an extra hp lol.

 

[stevo993]

makes sense, better airflow. anyways thanks for the help.

 

[stevo993]

alright so i am going to start this today, but iv read all through the thread, and didn't see anything on torque specks, do i need a torque wrench or are there any torque specks that i should know about.

it kinda concerns me that it doesnt mention any considering the intake manifold is bolted on straight to the engine block.

 

[adumbrille]

I just went by hand and felt how tight they were when I unbolted them. It felt like about 50-60 ft-lbs. I'll look up the specs for you though. I wasn't worried cause neither the block or the manifold are moving parts.

 

[adumbrille]

I converted it from in-lbs for you.

12-15 ft-lbs for the 6 bolts, and 6-8 ft-lbs for the 2 by the throttle body. They feel a lot tighter then that taking them off though.

 

[stevo993]

thanks but i had to abort the mission. i couldnt get to that bolt in the middle that the original op had trouble with. but i had already loosened 4 bolts on the intake manifold, and when tightened those back up and reinstalled everything, (TB and CAI) the car was acting funny. it had a rough idle at about 400 rpms, and i let it idle for about 10 min to let the ecu relearn but when i drove it, it drove fine but when i would push in the clutch to brake the rpms would gradually fall then it would stall on me

when i was back home i popped the hood to listen to the engine idle and there is a very fast ticking noise coming from the intake manifold, meanwile the rpms were just bouncing up and down. the rough idle could be due to the ecu just relearning everything however it doesnt explain the ticking noise from the manifold. no cels either

 

[stevo993]

i just started it up again too and it didnt rly wanna start up. it turned for a wile and and barley started up with low rpms

 

[adumbrille]

Ah man you're killin me, gonna give up over 1 bolt? Go back to page 18 on here and I explained to someone else how to get that bolt off.

If you just removed 4 bolts, then the intake was still secured to the block, more or less. So most likely you reconnected your throttle body or intake wrong. Sounds like a vacuum leak. If there's a leak the car will start and idle rough or shut off. My guess would be make sure the rubber gasket on the back side of the throttle body is all the way in the groove. If not, try listening for the leak, you might be able to hear it.

 

[stevo993]

i looked at your post on page 18 and thats what i tried initially, but my problem is the extention and socket sizes i have. i cant get the extention through that little hole with the socket attached. and if i remove the socket i cant put it back on, on the other side of the whole after the extention in through it.

as for the issue im having, ill check everything tomorrow to make sure i installed everything right.

maybe ill buy a knew extension tomorrow and try it agian.

 

[adumbrille]

the other way to do it is get two 3 inch extensions and put it through the hole with just one extension on there, then add the second one so you can clear the radiator.

 

[stevo993]

maybe i can do that one, ill let you know tomorrow.