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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright, just finished up the VTCS. What a PIA. Taking it off... not too bad. Getting the center bottom bolt back in total PIA. I spent well over an hr on this one bolt!!! On To the write up

First you need to locate all 8 bolts that hold the Manifold to the block.


the two brown one on the left and the 6 blue on the center and right

From Left to right top to bottom respectfully here is the pictures for each bolt

Far left above TB

Below TB

The next set with one on top of the other

The bitch in the middle


The one on the bottom was hard to take a picture of b/c it was so dark. But you can't see it anyways so a picture does you no good. To find this bolt take you arm and extend it parallel to the 3rd intake port to the left of the TB. Go straight down from there and you should be able to feel it.
Top right of picture

Bottom Right of Picture (smaller one on the right of this picture)


I loosened all these first to make sure I could get the manifold off first.
Then I discounted my battery

Then I went back and uninstalled my intake.

Then unclip the red connector to the TB



Proceed to loose and remove the 4 bolts around the TB



Next locate the VTCS solenoid to the backside of the TB

Using a 25 Torex

Remove the two screws on the top left and bottom left (under the tb)

Then take a thin flathead and pry off the round piece off the white ball.

Go ahead and push the solenoid to the side or under the manifold

Now it's back to the Manifold.
I used Gum in the socket to make sure I didn't loose any bolts. I didn't have a magnetic drive/extension so this was my second choice.


Locate this on the front of the manifold in the middle and remove all four hoses and both electrical connections


The wire that is running on top of this bracket needs to be pulled out. See below

Next go ahead and remove all the bolt that you loosed already.
Two from the TB area

6 from on the manifold it's self and the one on the bottom

Once you take out all the bolts the manifold will fall off
Inside if you look you'll see the VTCS


First remove the green rubber "gasket" pieces.

Then with needle nose pillars or a flat head again pry off the white "ball" locate under the VTCS solenoid




Then using your needle nose pillars put them in the hole you see above and pull out the long square rod.

Once it's completely out take the Green things in the first picture

Prying them apart easily pull out the butterfly.

Not so easy....

Lucky it doesn't matter too much. Put it back in and slapped the gasket on their and you'd never know it broke =)
Then go ahead reinstall these and put the green gaskets around them back in.
Put the white ball piece back in and attach it to the VTCS solenoid.
Put the manifold back on. I would suggest putting the bolt for the middle on in first before it's even pushed back to the engine block.
Reinstall everything you took out and reconnect the battery and enjoy.
=)
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Driving impressions. The power is def more linear to the redline. Jumping on it at a stop and it seems to pull hard from 2k to 7k. Couldn't notice a big difference up top but I'm sure it's there. Biggest gain is low and mid range power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Mazda 6i.

Red is stock
Blue is VTCS Removed.



Just like I felt more more midrange not nothing up top
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
[quote author=sinn3r link=topic=104068.msg2109283#msg2109283 date=1204237397]
hmm.. doesnt seem worth it..
[/quote]
If 10 whp mid-range doesn't seem worth it for a free mod... then to each his own.
 

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for the amount of work it takes, i dont think it is worth it. i know my way around and engine bay so i know i could do it, i just dont think i would be satisfied after a couple hours of work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
if it wasn't for fusing with that middle bolt it would have taken me 2 hrs tops. I stopped a lot to look for tools, talk to the wifey, and take pictures of EVERYTHING!!
 

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i understand, maybe if it was 10whp/10tq more throughout the band i would consider it. a lil power thru 500 rpm's i can live without.

do you by anychance have a dyno of your own mod?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Nope. I did this as well as many other mods. I do not have a baseline dyno for any of these Mods =/

The 10+hp/tq last for about 1.5K RPM's.

I feel it was worth it. But again to each their own.

The little surge you get around 5.5K RPM is gone now and is silky smooth from bottom to top. Some might not like this
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
How it normally kicks like a kick at 5.5k RPMs... now the power is linear,, thus no more "kick"
 

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oh so you mean no more love from the vvt? lol

did you draw up the design of the mani on the top there? autocad?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
[quote author=sinn3r link=topic=104068.msg2113379#msg2113379 date=1204380818]
oh so you mean no more love from the vvt? lol

did you draw up the design of the mani on the top there? autocad?
[/quote]

Nope rip it from the guy before. Too much work for me =o)

And you still get lots of love. Just no loss in power below...

Check my dyno in my intake thread how linear the power is
 

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sticky sticky sticky!
 

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it was was def worth it by the way. this, throttle body ground, and advance timing should be done the first day having the car
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
[quote author=mamock116 link=topic=104068.msg2119654#msg2119654 date=1204602006]
it was was def worth it by the way. this, throttle body ground, and advance timing should be done the first day having the car
[/quote]
+1 So much better. The power is so linear as you can see in my Dynos!!! Loving it
 

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i looked through that thread and saw like 3 different dynos.. could you post it here please?
 

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this is with all of your other mods as well?
 
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