Are you using a torque wrench when tightening the end link nuts? I read in the service manual that you can test the rotational torque but my smallest torque wrench doesn't have a setting low enough.

 

Bigger sway bars make nasty noises when the endlink bolts get even slightly loose... I bet one just started coming loose, but you didn't notice when taking it off. If you make sure the surface of the bar is clean, and tighten down the endlinks to the bar really well, the sound should go away.

 

Well the next few days are going to be freezing so I won't get to it till this weekend. I was thinking about using the softer setting on the Cobb since the holes line up in the same spot as the OEM. Right now the car is rattle free so it definately seems like it was just the bolt. How do I know for sure if the end link is good through. I've been reading the forums and my best friend Google but I can't find a definately way to test. I also found that the original Mazda ones are better than the aftermarket. Is that true?

And no, i'm not using a torque wrench because of the allen key. Can't get the socket over it. I'm using a ratcheting wrench and going pretty tight with some thread lock. It was a biiaaaatch taking the bolts off because of the thread lock so I didn't think the bolts were the problem but apparently I was wrong.

 

Mazda's testing procedure is to rotate the bolt portion 10 times and then side to side 10 times. Then check the rotational torque. If it's outside spec, replace it. I would also look for binding when you are spining the bolt portion, or moving it side to side.

 

I tried rotating it and they both seemed fine and there was no binding at all either. I'll see if I can put the Cobb back on this Thursday if it gets above 40 deg.

 

I run a whiteline rear sway bar on my Maz 3 SP 23 (I'm In Aust) and have a similar noise. It turns out that the sway bar was made with a larger hole in the sway bar than the bolt used to attach it.

This means that no matter how tight it is done up the bar still moves a bit when it moves. Problem is I do not think there is any end link that has the correct diamiter. Just for refference the end link is a 10mm bolt the sway bar is a 12 mm hole. (one whole bolt size larger)

 

So I went to a different dealer last week to fix the window ticking issue and had them check the end links (I have the stock sway bar on it now) and they said the links are fine and the bolts are known to come loose so they re-torqued them just to make sure. So it looks like when I put the Cobb back on, i'm going to use thread lock again, but I'll also put on a 2nd nut for extra protection.