Welcome to the forum
Any fastener the tongue setting are pretty much universal. You just first need to look at what the type is and the hardness value on the head of the bolt. Then any universal torque chart can give you what that fastener torque should be.
The exception is if there is any specific WARNING in a service guide to use a specific torque value.
There is difference of service steps in that I would always use and advise my service tech to apply the silicone sealer on both surfaces let tac up about 10 minutes and then install the pan and snug the fasteners and let stand for about 45 minutes (in our temperatures in the shop it is currently now average 80F degree) then torque to the value in the service guide or the fastener torque chart.
Shop service recommendation replied to by mechanics and DIY may vary and also have varying end results.

 

Diagram below from the US 2007 Mazda 3 manual. Note there was not a 1.6L in the US as far as I know. In the US manual, this diagram is the same for the 2.0L, 2.3L and Mazdaspeed turbo engines. I would guess this all still applies to your engine.

A tip on the silicone gasket material. Permatex The Right Stuff is fine. When I dropped the transmission oil pan, I used ACDelco GM Original Equipment 10-2010 RTV Engine Sealant. Whatever one you use, I recommend getting the short tube you can put in the caulking gun. It makes it so much easier to get it where you want it, is less messy, and gets it done without wasting time. Just read the instructions on the assembly time as some want assembly faster than others. Regardless of how fast they say you can add oil and return the car to service, I'd wait at least 24 hours.

 

Some pages from the Engine Manual for the 2 and 2.3L engines. Note the tightening order. Yours is probably a different shape, but you can likely determine the logic behind it..

 

Grendel65

Thank you for your prompted reply its much appreciated.

Yes, I understand there are charts giving general torque settings for specific bolt/screw sizes but sometimes torques are specified in the car workshop manuals which is what I’ve normally found.

I don’t have a manual for the Mazda, hence why I came on the forum to try and find out.

You mentioned the bolt hardness, to be honest I haven’t a clue what hardness the bolt is for fastening the sump, so I’m afraid I’m lost on that one.

As you probably already know torques should be done on clean dry threads, I can’t help thinking how many of those do you get on a used car.

They are either corroded to hell or plenty of grease on them to assist removal next time.

I’ve sometimes I’ve set the torque by guess especially if they are small screws and screwed into aluminium, that stuff is so easy to strip thread.

 

Billm

Thank you for the info, at least I've now got some idea of the tightening sequence

 

You have all the torque values in post #3. The first number is the torque in Nm and that last number is if you use ft-lb. The post by billm shows the same torque value for the majority of the bolts. There are a couple others that bolt to the back that are different values.

 

Just a note, my manual is an early one, for 2004-2005 I believe.. But from Akmnhg5A, I think those other two bolts aren't on the pan surface, but maybe attaching to the bell housing? Anyway good job all of you responders!

 

This is an example of why service advise and using supportive service manuals should only be with the specific year model engine and transmission information etc. and not assume that they are all universal with all other models Mazda.
I recommend that the op contact a Mazda dealerships service department in the country they live and ask the service department if they would give them the proper service information relating to their Mazda.
The other would be to obtain the service manual from a online seller or other online portals that relate to their specific Mazda .

If that is just not obtainable then the 2nd recommendation would be to contact engine machine shop of a machine shop about the oil pan bolts and perhaps even the replacement of the oil pan that they use during an engine assembly.

This is becoming an entertaining thread because we are talking about an oil pan if you really think about it, not like installing a head gasket. Now that service is hyper critical comparing and oil pan R&R.

 

Billm's manual probably shows the side bolts on the next page -- my 2007 manual does. These engines are all based on the Mazda MZR engine that was used for all the displacements and variations around the world. As you point out, this is not a cylinder head and these bolt tightening specs aren't that critical except to be tight and not strip the aluminum threads of the bolt holes.

 

This is an Indepth topic all about a oil pan torquing. Been following it but didn't think it would go this far.
I have always just snug'um the bolts up start the engine let it warm up and then re-check 'um. Can't say as I ever had the oil pan leak in any combination steel pan to aluminum block, or aluminum pan to aluminum block not using a torque wrench . To me it seems more like doing even amounts and crisscrossing a tighten paten then really worry about the torque on that part so much?
Some here said its only an oil pan and not a head I agree Id be more careful about the torking values. Personally though I always like to use a gasket when I can instead of sealer only. If I have to go back and do any work when it been sealed in silicone only then takes twice as long to do the job because of cleaning all that dried sealer off what a PIA.

 

STEVE28 welcome to the forum

 

e hour then tighten to torque specifications.

Allow 90 minutes to cure before filling with fluids or returning to service.

Replace cap after use. NOTE: NOT recommended for use on head gaskets or parts in contact with gasoline.

My thanks to anyone who can help.

Hey! I’ve worked on a few Mazdas for the sump bolts on the BL 1.6, around 8-10 Nm should be safe. And yeah, no gasket, just RTV like The Right Stuff works well.