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Error Code P0113 - IAT circuit voltage high

28K views 7 replies 5 participants last post by  Kyrpto07  
#1 ·
*WARNING* Fairly long story, but please bear with me.

Okay, so when I installed my intake, I undid the clips from the battery box to give the MAF wires some slack. I recently took it back into the dealer, and they conveniently clipped them back in for me. Well the other day two of the wires broke off at the connector and another one was almost broken. The car shuttered like crazy and bucked as if I didn't know how to drive stick. I had to drive a mile like this as I was on a busy highway with no shoulder and couldn't pull over. I had the car towed to my house, and I re-pinned those 3 wires. I forgot to reset the ECU, and I drove to work yesterday. A half mile away from work, CEL's still on, it started pouring smoke out of the tailpipe. I made it to work, reset the ECU, and the smoking stopped. I had my fingers crossed and was hoping I didn't blow my head gasket or a ring or something, and that it was just burning extremely rich. Anyways, today on my way to work it threw another CEL, and then it dissappeared shortly after. I went to take my lunch break and there it was again, so I swung by the mechanics to have him read the code for me.

P0113 - IAT circuit high voltage

I know that means that the intake temp is reading extremely cold. When I started my car up on the way home, the CEL was gone, but I think I noticed some hesitation. I may just be paranoid, but I'm not positive. I'm pretty sure all the connections I did are solid as I've done some wiring in the past. I'm wondering if there is any way I could have fried the MAF or something similar?

Input would be GREATLY appreciated. I'm considering getting a compression test, and also checking for a blown head gasket by pressurizing the coolant reservoir just for precautionary reasons.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
[quote author=cali_axela link=topic=156288.msg3327800#msg3327800 date=1253138366]
Was one of the wires you re-pinned the ground (black) one? If not, take a closer look at it, as it has a habit of coming slightly loose and causing that type of behavior even though at first glance it looks like it has a good connection in the MAF harness.
[/quote]

It was, but I'll still pull everything back apart and double-check/tidy up the wiring before I go and buy a new MAF sensor. I want to check local junkyards to see if any have a Mz3 in that I can just cut the connector off the harness and leave myself some leads so I know the connections inside are solid, and then I can make the connections look OEM as well.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
[quote author=rickfogle link=topic=156288.msg3329662#msg3329662 date=1253227888]
Save yourself some headache later, especially if you install an aftermarket intake. Clip the wires a few inches down from the connector and splice in three or four inches of extra wire. With the OEM engine rear engine mount our motors rock a lot on really hard acceleration and pull on those wires, eventually causing them to fail if you don't extend them.
[/quote]

I have an intake, that's what (indirectly) caused this in the first time thank's to the dealership. They already failed, and I did extend the wires. I took them out again to check the wires to make sure I had solid connections, and I did. I threw a little bit of extra solder on to make sure... reconnected them, and still a CEL. Went to autozone to have CEL's read out, and there were 4 all pertaining to the MAF. The kid didn't tell me the codes. I bought a MAF from a junkyard today (tested and guaranteed to work) and threw it on... CEL remained. Reset ECU, CEL's came right back, and now the battery light is on as well and I fiddled with the ground on the battery and the light stays on. wtf.