Mazda3 Forums banner

Clutch Fork

2 reading
8K views 2 replies 2 participants last post by  vasama  
#1 ·
I posted this in a sub-forum here, but today I thought that I could have a better chance of getting a reply in this section, so here it goes:

Hello, guys.
'06 Mazda 3, 2.3.
Background: Crankshaft and bearings damaged, due to son running it without oil. First thought of doing the 2.5 swap, but I was able to find an under-$500 Mazda 2.3 engine on LKQ. It was that cheap because it was in Canada, so it would take longer to get here. I wasn't in a hurry, so I ordered it.
I swapped the transmission from the old to the new and mounted the whole thing in the car. Connected the wires all around, the fuel line, the coolant lines (and thermostat), the AC compressor, the alternator, the exhaust header, everything.
The hardest thing so far, has been the insertion of the drive shafts. This was VERY difficult, mostly the one with the clip, the driver side one.
I was getting ready (and very excited) to put in the fluids, connect the battery, and give it a try, but found that the clutch pedal was on the floor. Did the "normal" stuff (check the fluid level, purge it), but when I was purging it I saw that the slave cylinder looked bad. Took it out and yes, it was damaged.
I also tried to move the release fork, but I couldn't. That made me think that I probably did something wrong when I transferred the transmission. However, I can actually actuate it if I use a big ass bar that I have, but it doesn't move it in a 'soft' way. This makes me think that the small slave cylinder is probably too weak to exert the needed force. On the other hand, it makes sense to me that the effort needed is significant, because what it is doing, is pressing the clutch disks together. The 2 ideas don't 'gel' in my head (clutch fork hard to move, and slave cylinder not looking strong enough)

I really hope someone here can shed some light on this for me. According to the workshop manual, there's only the fork and the bearing, and nothing else right there.
My current plan is simply to order a slave cylinder replacement, mount it, and see if it works. If it doesn't, then I suppose I'll have to take the whole thing down again. I don't think I have a way of 'just' taking down the transmission because I'm doing this job in my garage.

Thank you, to anyone that can give me some advise.
 
#3 ·
Did you do anything to the throw out bearing when you swapped over the transmission? NOTHING.
DId you replace any clutch components? NO.
Did you check the connection of the clutch fork to the throwout bearing? NO, I DIDN'T.
How old is the existing clutch itself? DON'T KNOW, PROBABLY ORIGINAL CLUTCH.
Did it work OK before you swapped the transmission? YES.
Clutch fork possibly off of it's pivot point? DOESN'T LOOK THAT WAY WHEN I REMOVE THE RUBBER COVER AND LOOK INSIDE.

How did you install the engine into the car? Engine hoist? YES.
You may be able to lower the engine to whatever angle necessary to have enough clearance to pull the transmission out. - YES, THAT'S CLEAR NOW. I'M IN THE PROCESS OF ADDING FLUIDS TO THE CAR AND ATTEMPT TO CRANK THE ENGINE, THINKING THAT IT MIGHT BE A MATTER OF DRY PARTS, AND A FEW TURNS WILL MAKE THINGS SETTLE. IF NOT, TRANSMISSION DOWN IT IS.
 
#2 ·
The slave cylinder should easily activate the clutch. You are correct, there is only the clutch fork and throwout bearing. Did you do anything to the throw out bearing when you swapped over the transmission? DId you replace any clutch components? Did you check the connection of the clutch fork to the throwout bearing? I just installed a new clutch kit during a 2.5 swap. I had to really pay attention how the clutch fork attached to the throwout bearing because my first attempt was wrong. How old is the existing clutch itself? Did it work OK before you swapped the transmission? Clutch fork possibly off of it's pivot point?

How did you install the engine into the car? Engine hoist? You may be able to lower the engine to whatever angle necessary to have enough clearance to pull the transmission out.