[ciahra]

What is this thing, and how do I remove it? I've seen no reference to it (that I recall) in the thread, and my manual has no picture of it. I'm referencing the rusted over swinging thing.

 

[zoomtictac]

That's your shift linkage. Directly connected to your shifter, if you grab one and swing it back and forth while looking in the car, you'll see your shifter move.

Just take a flathead screwdriver and pry the 2 cable ends off. Very simple pop-into-place ball and socket connection. One controls side to side, and the other front to back, referring to the motion of the shift knob. The rusted part stays.

 

[hogi13]

Alright, this weekend is the weekend. I am getting ready to do the swap and I have a few questions. First thing, has anyone heard from 2008Milan? I messaged him a couple weeks ago to try and order the adapter, but I have not heard from him. Another question is, with an 06+ Mazda 3, do you have to swap the timing covers? Finally, are there more details to holding the differential in place? The original post says he used a coat hanger. What did everyone else do?

 

[zoomtictac]

Alright, this weekend is the weekend. I am getting ready to do the swap and I have a few questions. First thing, has anyone heard from 2008Milan? I messaged him a couple weeks ago to try and order the adapter, but I have not heard from him. Another question is, with an 06+ Mazda 3, do you have to swap the timing covers? Finally, are there more details to holding the differential in place? The original post says he used a coat hanger. What did everyone else do?

I didn't use an adapter plate, so I can't help there. Maybe someone else has his contact info. 06+ if I recall correctly without looking, I think the timing cover is necessary due to possible oil corridors, but the cam is not. I do believe this is documented here, recheck this thread and perhaps madmatt's repost on instructions which I believe was linked in the previous page. With the differential, I simply left the drivers side axle in the transmission, and the intermediate shaft as well. Disconnected at the drivers axle, and disconnected the passenger side from the intermediate.

 

[antics]

Youve got to swap the timing cover no matter what the year. You've got to use the Mazda harmonic balancer and crankshaft position sensor, need the Mazda timing cover to do that.

I just left the driver's side axle in the transmission when I removed the engine. I couldn't pry it out and I figured it would hold the diff anyways so why not just leave it.

 

[ciahra]

Woo hoo! I FINALLY got the engine out! That only took way too many hours.
The thing that had me stymied: On the very first guide that thlillyr referenced there was an option to take out either the strut bolts or the bracket that houses the strut connected to the engine. I'm guessing on 06+ that is not the case. I took out the bolts for the bracket and the strut wasn't letting go. Had to remove the back bolt too. I'm not sure if all three need to come out, or just the back one.

 

[Viktimize]

Alright, this weekend is the weekend. I am getting ready to do the swap and I have a few questions. First thing, has anyone heard from 2008Milan? I messaged him a couple weeks ago to try and order the adapter, but I have not heard from him. Another question is, with an 06+ Mazda 3, do you have to swap the timing covers? Finally, are there more details to holding the differential in place? The original post says he used a coat hanger. What did everyone else do?

No you do not have to swap timing cover. But you DO have to swap oil pan over. The Ford one does not have the A/C compressor mounts on it.

I never used a coat hanger or anything, I just left the intermediate shaft in place the whole time. When I removed the transmission, just leave the intermediate shaft stuck in the tranny, and unbolt the mount from the side of the block.

 

[Viktimize]

Youve got to swap the timing cover no matter what the year. You've got to use the Mazda harmonic balancer and crankshaft position sensor, need the Mazda timing cover to do that.

I just left the driver's side axle in the transmission when I removed the engine. I couldn't pry it out and I figured it would hold the diff anyways so why not just leave it.

On 2006+ the crank position sensor mount is the same as the Ford timing cover. So you don't need to swap the cover, just the balancer and position sensor.

 

[Viktimize]

I did not realize the Intake Manifold would be such a cunt to remove while in the car. So I didn't bother using RTV all over the IM to ensure it sealed to the 2.5 head. Of course there is a big vacuum leak, so RTV is required to seal this all up around the ports. Intake Manifold removal is simple, other than that one centre bottom bolt. If you use a proper length extension to get in there, then it doesn't fit between the manifold and radiator. Going to use a universal joint and 2 small extensions, so I can fit it in bit by bit. But then you can't see in there to line it up. And the universal joint gets cocked, it's bloody near impossible to line it up with the bolt. Basically I will be outside screwing with this for a few hours it seems, unless anyone has some tips they used?

 

[n8marsh]

I did the 2 small extensions, can't remember if I used the universal joint.

Doesn't help right now, but when I bolted it back up I put tape sticky side out in the socket to hold the bolt until it was threaded in.

Also, make that center bugger the first fastener you install when you put it back together. You can place it in its proper hole before lining the manifold up.

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[zoomtictac]

Let's be honest. The first time I took off the intake manifold (and this was with the 2.3 still, when I did the VTCS delete), I never put back in the center bolt. I did the bolts around the ports, the one by the thermostat, and the one at the bottom, closer to the oil pan. I have never reinstalled the center bolt.

I also used RTV around the ports, verses using the template from Milan-dude.

 

[optimusprime]

I also used RTV around the ports, verses using the template from Milan-dude.

Do you have a picture of the finished product? If 2008-Milan isn't responding to PMs I may have to go the RTV route vs using his spacer.



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[madmatt2024]

I would think cutting your own paper gasket would work better than RTV.

 

[optimusprime]

I would think cutting your own paper gasket would work better than RTV.

And cheaper too. Thanks.


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[zoomtictac]

Do you have a picture of the finished product? If 2008-Milan isn't responding to PMs I may have to go the RTV route vs using his spacer.



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Not much of a photo opportunity... You apply it directly to the mating surfaces. In my case, to the intake manifold surrounding the factory gaskets, which I left in place. Slather it on good at the tops, maybe 1/16" thick all around the ports, including the egr, and then extra along the top edge of the IM where the little tabs stick up for the gasket rings. It's a bit of trial and error, but if you spread a moderate bit at the top of each port after the IM is bolted in, you should be good. That's where my leak was, the tops of each port. Kinda ugly, but works, and I'm no showcar.

 

[antics]

Weapon R makes a product out of high temp plastic thats similar to what he was selling if you can't get ahold of him. Somewhere around $50 on ebay. Design looks pretty much identical except for plastic vs aluminum and the Weapon R one doesn't seem to have a cutout for the EGR port. That could be easily fixed with a holesaw or dremel though.

http://www.weapon-r.com/products/1149-2-3l-4cyl-mazda-mazda-3-intake-manifold-thermal-gasket

 

[Shotgunner]

Vacuum leak from the intake manifold was the last problem I had with my swap as well. And I reeeally hope I never have to deal with that stupid center bolt again. Once I got the shank-less bolts, I screwed in the center one first, so that it was easy to tell if it was really screwed in, versus just threaded into a plastic crevice or something (sounds dumb, but the first time we tried to screw it in while the engine was in the car, we thought it was in and tight, but it never actually was. I only found that out when I unbolted the rest and the manifold came loose). I jammed a twist-tie between the socket and bolt to make sure the bolt was stuck to the socket until it threaded in, like n8marsh did with tape. Then I used 2 or 3 3" extensions, no u-joint. When I initially struggled to remove the bolt, I was so frustrated that I stuck my phone in there and took a photo just to make sure the bolt was actually in there:

Once I got the center bolt in, I kept it loose, and then screwed in all the others loosely. Then in order to hold the mani as high up as possible while tightening the bolts, I used the engine hoist and some rope:

And when it was all bolted up, I added more RTV along the top of the ports (on our first attempt at sealing the leak, we used it on the mating surfaces). I let it sit for a couple of days until I could test it out, and that did the trick! I can't quite explain how relieved I felt that it all finally came together.

So add another successful swap to the list! It really feels almost better than new, since the 2.5 is so smooth. It was a pain to do, but it would have been much easier and quicker if I had my own garage and tools. And now that I've invested so much time, effort, and busted knuckles on this car, I'm that much more intent to drive her til she turns to dust!

 

[optimusprime]

Weapon R makes a product out of high temp plastic thats similar to what he was selling if you can't get ahold of him. Somewhere around $50 on ebay. Design looks pretty much identical except for plastic vs aluminum and the Weapon R one doesn't seem to have a cutout for the EGR port. That could be easily fixed with a holesaw or dremel though.

http://www.weapon-r.com/products/1149-2-3l-4cyl-mazda-mazda-3-intake-manifold-thermal-gasket

That should work. I really don't want to go the RTV route due to some of the problems others have had getting it to seal.


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[ciahra]

Anyone have an idea on how to remove these?

 

[zoomtictac]

Hah! I think I remember those.... Somewhere around the exhaust manifold, right? I'm fairly certain I used some channel locks. Don't need em, so screw em.


...Er, UNscrew them, I guess I should say.