[antics]

I can make wiki say that I'm Batman. :surprise: I assure you they are in there. Can't paste in mobile or id link it. Google mazda6tech drivetrain intake tech.

 

[zoomtictac]

You can't be Batman, I'm Batman o.o

 

[zoomtictac]

Okay, so reading over your pdf file, on page 4 there's a graph that I can only assume is a complete failure, and accidentally posted backwards.... but it basically indicates that you'd have more torque WITHOUT the VIS....

http://www.xsadclan.com/files/6/Mazda6Tech/Drivetrain--intake_tech.pdf

In other news, I finally found something talking about how the 2.5L introduced in 2009 for the Mazda6 (same engine) also features a "two mode intake manifold", which would indicate VIS/VICS. The potential issue there is that I found (that I now cannot find again) that the 2.0 and 2.3 systems are not electronically interchangeable, which would suggest that perhaps the 2.5 isn't either. If it has it, and I can't plug it in, I will be stuck with 1 runner length. However, the larger volume runners from the correct manifold, I'm guessing will still be a benefit. Once I have the manifold (if Viktimize ever gets back to me), I'll start comparing and looking at options.

 

[Shotgunner]

Update on my car: We swapped the 2.3 timing cover in this weekend and it worked! I'm not completely out of the woods yet though:

The oil light is staying on, but after checking this thread again, it may be that when using the oil filter from the 2.5, I didn't use the sensor from the 2.3, so I'll give that a shot the next chance I get.

More importantly, I got some serious vacuum leakage from the intake manifold. It's tripping a CEL (can't remember which one exactly), making noise, and screwing with idle. I had tried trimming the mounting pegs on the IM, but apparently that wasn't enough. We tried popping it off and gooping on some RTV, but that didn't seem to do the trick either. I think the next thing I want to try is replacing the shanked IM bolts with fully threaded ones as bobp did.

Did anyone ever find out the bolt size? If not, I guess I can pop one off and take it to Home Depot.

Thanks again for the input you guys, and I'll make sure to keep y'all posted.

 

[zoomtictac]

Your problem is the one that I am working on a solution for!

I had to goop up mine quite a bit too, and that was after cutting the pegs and lifting the whole IM before snugging. You have to let it sit for at least 2-3 hours before trying to start it, or it will suck all that stuff in from the cracks and you'll still have a leak. Blowdryers are your friend, too.

 

[antics]

Update on my car: We swapped the 2.3 timing cover in this weekend and it worked! I'm not completely out of the woods yet though:

The oil light is staying on, but after checking this thread again, it may be that when using the oil filter from the 2.5, I didn't use the sensor from the 2.3, so I'll give that a shot the next chance I get.

More importantly, I got some serious vacuum leakage from the intake manifold. It's tripping a CEL (can't remember which one exactly), making noise, and screwing with idle. I had tried trimming the mounting pegs on the IM, but apparently that wasn't enough. We tried popping it off and gooping on some RTV, but that didn't seem to do the trick either. I think the next thing I want to try is replacing the shanked IM bolts with fully threaded ones as bobp did.

Did anyone ever find out the bolt size? If not, I guess I can pop one off and take it to Home Depot.

Thanks again for the input you guys, and I'll make sure to keep y'all posted.

Youve got to use the oil pressure sensor from the 2.3 or it will light up. Just swap the sensor and you're good to go.

The bolts are M8x1.25, 40mm and 80mm.

I used the bolts, shifted the manifold up maybe an 1/8 of an inch, and RTVd it for good measure. No intake leak at all.

 

[zoomtictac]

More on the 2.5 I got, from a Mariner. My Intake manifold doesn't have vtcs or vics that I can see. There's the plenum I think its called, and smooth runners up to the ports. I see nothing where there would be flaps, and there are no solenoids on top. The only inputs or plugs are the pcv line and the evap purge connector on the front up by the throttle body. There's a tunnel for where vtcs COULD be, but isn't installed on this one. And the mariner puts out 171/171.

 

[antics]

More on the 2.5 I got, from a Mariner. My Intake manifold doesn't have vtcs or vics that I can see. There's the plenum I think its called, and smooth runners up to the ports. I see nothing where there would be flaps, and there are no solenoids on top. The only inputs or plugs are the pcv line and the evap purge connector on the front up by the throttle body. There's a tunnel for where vtcs COULD be, but isn't installed on this one. And the mariner puts out 171/171.

I don't think any of the Ford 2.5s used VLIM or VTCS. That was Mazda stuff. Massivespeed says that the Mazda3 2.5 manifold has it. I don't think there is any way to lose with the VLIM. The solenoids and stuff I was talking about are on your 2.3 manifold, not the 2.5 one.

So you want to swap a 2.5 Duratec I4 in, Eh? 2.5 Recipes and secrets in Engine Forum

 

[zoomtictac]

Wow. That page had so much info I think I need to change my pants.

In other news, it's likely I'll be keeping my equipment plugged up like the guys that run aftermarket IMs, and just off to the side. I can't afford to get a Mazda IM right now.

 

[antics]

Ha, yeah. I've probably read that whole thing 15 times. Lots of good info.

 

[zoomtictac]

I am very, very curious about the Honda EM now.... yep. There's a few things in that article that I like. The 12.5:1 pistons make me drool, that's right up my alley.

 

[ciahra]

Various questions

Hey, all. I am in the middle of a swap like the few I've seen in this thread. In thlillyr's first post, he didn't mention the exhaust manifold in particular. I did see that someone used the original manifold instead of the 2.5's exhaust manifold.
The guide that thlillyr used from the Mazda 6 forum mentioned removing two bolts that mated the manifold to the exhaust pipe. My 2007 does not have those two bolts. The manifold and pipe seem to be welded together, or pressed together, what-have-you. Can I unbolt the exhaust manifold and leave it in the engine bay, pulling the rest of the engine? It doesn't seem the best option, but certainly seems to be the only option.
Also, at least one source (can't remember which) stated that the 2.5 had a single serpentine belt to the 2.3's two belts. Which do we use?

 

[zoomtictac]

I unbolted my exhaust mani from the head and propped it out of the way. It made things a tiny bit more cramped for removing the engine, but not much. The tightest is from side to side with the trans and drivers axle attached! But it works. Just be patient with it and leave your exhaust alone.

As far as the belts.... Mine was the same setup. Serpentine for everything but the ac, which is separate. Our crank pulley, which you swap over, has two slots for belts, and our ac bolts into place on the new block just like ours. I would imagine if there is a longer Serpentine for the 2.5, it won't matter, because the crank pulley solves the 2 belt issue.

 

[Shotgunner]

I unbolted my exhaust mani before pulling the engine too, seemed like the easiest way.

As for my swap, I somehow managed to crack my oil filter housing when swapping oil pressure switches, must have over-tightened (couldn't find the torque spec). So I guess I'll just stick the old cartridge filter housing back on. I think I've sealed up my intake mani vacuum leak, but couldn't really test it without shooting oil everywhere. Hopefully tomorrow....

 

[ciahra]

Removing axles

So I managed to get the tie rod disconnected, but I'm not sure what needs to be disconnected next to get the rotor/whatever it is to swing away and remove the axle. I highlighted what I think needs to be disconnected, but obviously I'm not sure. I tried to remove the top nut, but it just spins. The bottom nut faces inward and is difficult to do anything with. This rod seemed to be the logical choice for disconnect. Am I right, or is it different connection?

 

[zoomtictac]

Yes, that's the sway bar end link. You need to disconnect that. If the top nut is off, take a hammer and (semi)gently tap it until it pops out. EDIT: Thinking back, I took my factory crap jack, and used it to jack up the rotor and spindle to help me get the end link out. If you jack the whole mess up, you will see the stud you just removed the nut from start to straighten out in the hole. Once it is perpendicular, it will pop out very easily.

You need to unhook the tie rod, the end link, and the ball joint, which is the rod that attaches to the bottom of the wheel hub at the bottom (or, you can detach the two bolts that attach the control arm to the car, also at the bottom). The control arm/ball joint piece is a y shaped piece on the suspension on both sides, under the wheel center.

 

[zoomtictac]

I unbolted my exhaust mani before pulling the engine too, seemed like the easiest way.

As for my swap, I somehow managed to crack my oil filter housing when swapping oil pressure switches, must have over-tightened (couldn't find the torque spec). So I guess I'll just stick the old cartridge filter housing back on. I think I've sealed up my intake mani vacuum leak, but couldn't really test it without shooting oil everywhere. Hopefully tomorrow....

Okay, wow. The oil pressure switch, or any switch for that matter, should not be tightened more than a few ftlbs. That's slightly more than hand-tight. And as far as the intake manifold, that should have no bearing on an oil leak...?! Where is it "shooting oil" from??

 

[hogi13]

I've read through this thread as I am preparing to try the swap myself. I was wondering if there was a reason other than the throttle body not properly connecting to the 2.5 mani for us not using the 2.5 mani? I do not recall seeing a reason. Would the 2.5 mani throw a CEL?

 

[zoomtictac]

As far as I've seen, the throttle body attachment is the primary issue. Having a manifold that doesn't have the VTCS or VICS installed is something that people have already gotten past, such as with an aftermarket Weapon-R manifold, so that's not really an issue. But, we can't use the 2.5 TB, as the electronics are different, and the 2.3 TB has a different bolt pattern.

 

[thlillyr]

Stock exhaust manifold will have to stay in the engine bay as its all welded together. Most after market manifolds are bolted together with 2 bolts and can be easily removed before the engine is pulled.

The fusion intake is not compatible due to the electronics difference. The ECU will not know how to read and control the electrical components on the Fusion TB and intake. IF you find a way of swapping those parts or find that we are wrong about that please share but as far as people have tried it will not work with the mazda electrics.

You can do this with an automatic. The process is the same as with the manual except your swaping your Mazda flywheel with the torque converter instead of your clutch.

After thousands of miles multi day road trips across many states my motor is still running great. Tranny still feels good and motor still feels like a new motor.