[zoomtictac]

I would bet that's it. Crank angle sensor provides spark rod angle. Did you confirm that spark is taking place at all by pulling a plug? Make sure fuel is shut off first.

 

[Shotgunner]

Yeah we tried pulling a plug to check, no spark. Really not looking forward to taking it all apart again, since I already owe the friend that's been helping me naming rights to my firstborn son for all the time and bloody knuckles put into this. But if that's what I gotta do, I'm dying to get this thing running again!

 

[zoomtictac]

Well, without looking back in this thread (and it is documented along the way), I seem to recall the necessity of using the 2.3 timing cover because of oil ports. Again, if I recall correctly, this wasn't 100% confirmed, as no one has tried it, but there is the risk of oil starvation or reduced flow.

Now, that being said, if there is no spark at all, I doubt the timing cover is the culprit, unless the CAS is in such a position that it's not getting ANY signal when the pulley turns. If the position was simply "incorrect", but the sensor could still get some sort of mistimed reading, you WOULD be getting spark from your plug, just not at the right time, which means no running engine for you. In fact, it would probably sputter to some extent from lingering fuel in the cylinders, just not run. So now it's time to chase down your spark issue...

Did you double check that the CAS was securely connected? All of the coils? Did you check more than 1 plug? Look inside the engine, are the cylinders wet (just so we can rule that out completely)? Which CAS did you use, 2.3 or 2.5?

 

[The-Kid]

my question is:
which intake camshaft did you use?

either the 04 intake needs to be used, or what i did was mark and press off the cam timing cog, and press it on the exact same way. if you used the 2011 timing cog, you will not get any spark.

 

[Shotgunner]

The-Kid I used the whole intake camshaft from the 04 motor.

Thanks for the input zoomtictac. I went back over the happy wrenching walkthrough, and if I understand it correctly, the oil routing in the 2.3 timing cover was relocated to the head in the 2.5, so the 2.5 timing cover doesn't have the ports. Which would mean that 2.3 timing cover ports would be unused when mounting it to a 2.5, but mounting a 2.5 timing cover to a 2.3 block would cause problems.

Which would leave the crank sensor as the only potential problem with using the timing cover from the 2.5. We tried mounting both crank sensors, but no luck. You may be right about not being able to mount either in a position that can get any signal from the pulley. If that's the case, I guess we'll have to pull it back out and swap on the 2.3 timing cover. We may check the other connections first (still would have to wait until next weekend at the earliest, since the car isn't at my place), but I'm not super hopeful. I'll probably order another crank pulley bolt in the meantime in case we do have to replace it.

 

[The-Kid]

Just as a dbl check, also inspect the large, grey harness plug directly next to the starter. i had a problem with that not being completely seated at the beginning of my swap, and got no spark or fuel.

just a quick 2cents..

 

[Shotgunner]

Ok cool, I'll check that the next chance I get. Is that the coil ground by any chance? One of the happy wrenching commenters mentioned something that sounded like that. Thanks!

 

[antics]

The 2.3 pulley is quite a bit smaller than the 2.5 pulley. If you used the 2.5 crank position sensor mounting holes with the smaller pulley, the sensor may be getting a poor reading from the pulley due to the extra distance.

 

[Viktimize]

The timing sprocket is not keyed, same as the rest of it. When you remove the crank bolt the cams are completely disconnected from the crankshaft. With the crankshaft bolt removed, if you were to rotate the crankshaft the cams would not spin. Crank pulley, timing chain sprocket, oil pump sprocket, all are held in position by the crank bolt.

Gotcha. Thanks. That short comment somewhere about the damper not being keyed makes sense why it was mentioned now.

Is there a cheap place to buy the timing tools?

 

[Tlsollen90]

Gotcha. Thanks. That short comment somewhere about the damper not being keyed makes sense why it was mentioned now.

Is there a cheap place to buy the timing tools?

EBay... Paid $10 for mine...

 

[zoomtictac]

Or you can make your own. The piece of steel is essentially a slap of metal 1/4" thick, and the pin is a screw that threads correctly (sorry, i dont have the thread pitch, but you can trial-and-error that) that is 1 7/16" long.

 

[Viktimize]

EBay... Paid $10 for mine...

I went this route. Now I play the waiting game. Guess I will swap over every other piece I can possibly do before the front case and crank damper in the mean time. So much for having this thing running by next weekend.

 

[antics]

Started my swap today. The 2.3 is ready to come out, finishing up pulling it tomorrow morning. I'm getting anxious.

I've talked with Orangevirus about a tune for this thing. I plan on getting it dynoed shortly after getting the 2.5 installed. Despite all the guys that have done this swap, we still haven't seen a dyno chart of what the 2.5 looks like running on the 2.3 ECU. No one really knows how much power it's making other than it feels stronger.

 

[zoomtictac]

I would be posting this in the 2010-2013 section, but since this is a hybrid, I'm not sure. Maybe we should have our own category...

So I just switched out the purge valve solenoid. Was continuing to have issues and the light was still there. Plugged the battery back in, and the first 10 or so miles, the rpm's would hang between 1250-1500, most of the time. Sometimes it would calm down on its own. Sometimes not. Pushing the clutch in, while sitting still, fixed it...?? Very odd. It has since stopped that, but thought it was worth noting.

Okay so the issue at hand is hesitation during acceleration, only under WOT is it noticeable. Very small amount, not even sure a passenger would notice. Happens all the way through the rpm range. Kinda feels like I'm modulating the throttle between 90-100%. I'm thinking maybe plugs? I've put 20k miles on it since the swap, which could possibly be long enough to mess the plugs with what they've been through. I've been dealing with lean conditions quite a bit due to sensors and vac leaks. So I'm hoping it's that simple. Also maybe the MAF, but that was cleaned during and/or shortly after the swap. I would be doing the plugs right now, but the engine is hot, and well, I have forum problems lol.

Also, idle is... odd. It's settled at 700 or so, but it feels rough. Not so much that you can see the needle moving - again, very small amount. Like it's a fraction of what you would call "stumbling". Not quite to sputtering. Kinda like somebody who's speaking that needs to clear their throat, but they won't just freaking do it.

Would plugs make any of this happen? Anything else that wouldn't throw a light for this long? It's been 200+ miles since I plugged the battery back in. Or... is this a common symptom that we have since the maps are wrong and I'm just now getting to it?

 

[antics]

This is taking a lot longer than i thought it would. The friend that was going to help got wifed into staying home over the weekend so I've done most all of it myself.

The 2.3 is pulled and stripped. The only thing left to remove is the intake cam. I'm still planning how I'm going to mark the cam timing wheel before removing it.

Notes-
Pulling the entire radiator support, radiator, and AC condenser will make everything much easier. I didn't remove them for the pull but will be doing so when the new engine goes in. Finding a way to move the condenser aside without disconnecting may be tricky.

 

[Viktimize]

I would be posting this in the 2010-2013 section, but since this is a hybrid, I'm not sure. Maybe we should have our own category...

So I just switched out the purge valve solenoid. Was continuing to have issues and the light was still there. Plugged the battery back in, and the first 10 or so miles, the rpm's would hang between 1250-1500, most of the time. Sometimes it would calm down on its own. Sometimes not. Pushing the clutch in, while sitting still, fixed it...?? Very odd. It has since stopped that, but thought it was worth noting.

Okay so the issue at hand is hesitation during acceleration, only under WOT is it noticeable. Very small amount, not even sure a passenger would notice. Happens all the way through the rpm range. Kinda feels like I'm modulating the throttle between 90-100%. I'm thinking maybe plugs? I've put 20k miles on it since the swap, which could possibly be long enough to mess the plugs with what they've been through. I've been dealing with lean conditions quite a bit due to sensors and vac leaks. So I'm hoping it's that simple. Also maybe the MAF, but that was cleaned during and/or shortly after the swap. I would be doing the plugs right now, but the engine is hot, and well, I have forum problems lol.

Also, idle is... odd. It's settled at 700 or so, but it feels rough. Not so much that you can see the needle moving - again, very small amount. Like it's a fraction of what you would call "stumbling". Not quite to sputtering. Kinda like somebody who's speaking that needs to clear their throat, but they won't just freaking do it.

Would plugs make any of this happen? Anything else that wouldn't throw a light for this long? It's been 200+ miles since I plugged the battery back in. Or... is this a common symptom that we have since the maps are wrong and I'm just now getting to it?

This is classic purge solenoid symptoms. Is it possible the solenoid you put in was bad? Do you have any codes?

 

[Viktimize]

I just read through the guide again, and it looks to me like on a 2006+ Mazda like mine, on top of not swapping cams, I also do NOT have to swap the front timing cover or oil pan and pick up. Wow, I just wasted a pile of time pulling the timing cover off the Mazda 2.3, glad I didn't start tearing it off the Ford 2.5 yet.

 

[antics]

Anyone know the bolt size for the intake manifold? Is it M6x1? I need to order these soon to get them on the way ASAP. I know the 6 short ones are 40mm and the 2 long ones at the throttle body are 80mm long.

After much googleing I found a thread on a ford escape forum where a guy broke two of the bolts during installation. He replaced them with M6x1.

EDIT- Nope, not m6. I think it's M8x1.25. That escape thread turned out to be a V6 I think. The car and all the parts are about 40 miles away or I'd just grab one of them and measure it.

 

[Viktimize]

Anyone know the bolt size for the intake manifold? Is it M6x1? I need to order these soon to get them on the way ASAP. I know the 6 short ones are 40mm and the 2 long ones at the throttle body are 80mm long.

After much googleing I found a thread on a ford escape forum where a guy broke two of the bolts during installation. He replaced them with M6x1.

You don't have any of the bolts left? Just take one into your local nut and bolt shop and they can size it up for you and sell you some new ones right on the spot. Bolts are cheap, I wouldn't bother waiting for online stuff with those.

 

[zoomtictac]

This is classic purge solenoid symptoms. Is it possible the solenoid you put in was bad? Do you have any codes?

It is possible, it is used. No codes, although I haven't had it run for pending. But it's been several hundred miles with no light.

Let me ask you this - on a solenoid that is operating correctly, if you disconnect the line from the firewall while the car is running, should you get hissing from a vac leak? In other words, should the solenoid be open all the time when the engine is running? If not, when does it open? Because I fiddled with the screw while it was running and nothing happened. Even unplugged it while it was running and nothing happened.