Just got my Infinity Refs today and will be installing them myself this weekend...my first stab at installing speakers. How difficult is it to remove the doors and put them back on? I'm going to follow VaBoom's guide but the notion of removing the door panels on my new car has me....well, let's just a little apprehensive. I have this picture in my head of being unable to get them back on.... :shock: Thanks.
totlpkg
it's pretty simple. VaBoom's instructions are abolutely clear as crystal for this.
Here's a quick breakdown...
1. 2 screws will be removed, after you pop open the covers. (door handle, and center door handle)
(I used a lobster fork for this. lol. worked like a charm, or you can just use a small flat-head screwdriver to pop them open.)
2. You'll need a philips-head to remove the 2 screws.
3. The door handle plastic enclosure will be removed, but you have to unplug the connector, which is done by pressing on the tab buttom with a screwdriver or even key.
4. I used gloves for the door panel removal part. VaBoom demonstrates where to start, which the bottom corner of the door. gloves worked well, as i got my hands in there, and just pulled the door off clip by clip around the panel. I think 6-8 clips total all-around for each panel.
5. The door panel is still connected to the power windows system. Having someone there to just even hold the panel helps, while you can push the tab button for the connector and release it. The driver's side door is the only one that has 2 connectors to release. all the others have 1, if i remember correctly.
That's pretty much it in a nutshell. Vaboom's guide is superior of course, because he'll show you the pics while doing this. I know now after having done it a couple of times. I feel like MacGyver being able to do it so quickly now. Mind you, I had no idea about any of this before.
Here's a quick breakdown...
1. 2 screws will be removed, after you pop open the covers. (door handle, and center door handle)
(I used a lobster fork for this. lol. worked like a charm, or you can just use a small flat-head screwdriver to pop them open.)
2. You'll need a philips-head to remove the 2 screws.
3. The door handle plastic enclosure will be removed, but you have to unplug the connector, which is done by pressing on the tab buttom with a screwdriver or even key.
4. I used gloves for the door panel removal part. VaBoom demonstrates where to start, which the bottom corner of the door. gloves worked well, as i got my hands in there, and just pulled the door off clip by clip around the panel. I think 6-8 clips total all-around for each panel.
5. The door panel is still connected to the power windows system. Having someone there to just even hold the panel helps, while you can push the tab button for the connector and release it. The driver's side door is the only one that has 2 connectors to release. all the others have 1, if i remember correctly.
That's pretty much it in a nutshell. Vaboom's guide is superior of course, because he'll show you the pics while doing this. I know now after having done it a couple of times. I feel like MacGyver being able to do it so quickly now. Mind you, I had no idea about any of this before.
I would suggest you have help, person doesn't even have to know anything, maybe a kid brother or sister or better a friend. Esp. for putting the door panel back on. This is where having help really is beneficial. I had some trouble lining up the window ledge and getting the panel to fit over the little edge. That rubber or plastic strip that is between the window and your door panel was jutting out for me when i did this incorrectly. you have to get it to sit right on the edge nicely, so it fits good. this was from my personal experience.
Oh, and good tip. Roll the windows down before removing any of the panels!!!
This will help you later. Esp. when trying to put them back on.
Oh, and good tip. Roll the windows down before removing any of the panels!!!
This will help you later. Esp. when trying to put them back on.
i just did my kicker components last night and its really simple to remove these doors than other cars. take the 2 screws out then before taking the panel off pull on the triangle thing where the tweeter is off. this will help the door panel come off easily. just stand back and hold the door handle (after pulling out the door handle clip) then just pull on the handle till it pops off then make sure all the clips are off and lift the panel up and it unhooks from the top of the door. then just take the screws out from the speaker and walla its done. haha i did all 4 doors with 2 pairs of components in about 3 hours and layed dynamat in the doors so it should take quick.
door panels & vibration deadening.
the only tricky spot on the front doors is one clip about 5" forward of the door release handle...it's kind of in the middle of the door....you've got to give quite a pull to get that one out.
go to Mazda & buy a dozen extra door fasteners (their name for it) I got mine for $0.70 each...any that you break, just toss 'em away... 'stead of swearin' at the damn things for breaking!!
leave your windows up! you can buy eDead (or Dynamat for 5x the cost) and cover almost the entire door panel by putting pieces in through the speaker hole. But you can't reach under the window if it's open. Also, I think it helps when replacing the panel, for alignment.
I bought 50 ft2 of eDead for $65 shipped. So far, have done all 4 doors, and lot's left for a sub in the rear....haven't quite figured that part out yet. Just go nuts with the stuff. I coverered everything i could inside the door, and every open spot on the removed door panel as well....if anything's gonna vibrate, it'll be my teeth...lol
oh...and there's 3 connectors on the driver's door. windows, power mirrors, and door locks (this one up by the door release handle.) 2 connectors on the passenger door, and only 1 per on the back doors.
good luck!
the only tricky spot on the front doors is one clip about 5" forward of the door release handle...it's kind of in the middle of the door....you've got to give quite a pull to get that one out.
go to Mazda & buy a dozen extra door fasteners (their name for it) I got mine for $0.70 each...any that you break, just toss 'em away... 'stead of swearin' at the damn things for breaking!!
leave your windows up! you can buy eDead (or Dynamat for 5x the cost) and cover almost the entire door panel by putting pieces in through the speaker hole. But you can't reach under the window if it's open. Also, I think it helps when replacing the panel, for alignment.
I bought 50 ft2 of eDead for $65 shipped. So far, have done all 4 doors, and lot's left for a sub in the rear....haven't quite figured that part out yet. Just go nuts with the stuff. I coverered everything i could inside the door, and every open spot on the removed door panel as well....if anything's gonna vibrate, it'll be my teeth...lol
oh...and there's 3 connectors on the driver's door. windows, power mirrors, and door locks (this one up by the door release handle.) 2 connectors on the passenger door, and only 1 per on the back doors.
good luck!
Thanks to everyone who took the time to reply. The speakers came yesterday and I'm going to put them in this weekend. I may call a couple local dealers today and stock up on some of the door panel clips just in case I trash any of them. I'll post back after the install and let everyone know if I'm driving my 3 around without any door panels :lol:
[quote author=J.J. DO link=topic=18379.msg2611248#msg2611248 date=1221323520]
Here's my walk through with pics
http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=108089.0
[/quote]
yeah i already looked at that one, it says nothing about removing the manual windows roll up handle
Here's my walk through with pics
http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=108089.0
[/quote]
yeah i already looked at that one, it says nothing about removing the manual windows roll up handle
[quote author=m3dia_lab link=topic=18379.msg2611353#msg2611353 date=1221327164]
ok is everyone ignoring my problem? i know not many people have manual windows.....
[/quote]
It's actually easier to take to panels of when you don't have power windows because you don't have to worry about unplugging connectors.
The window crank is held on by a little metal clip in the shape of a "C". If you push in on you door panel around the crank and look under the crank you should be able to see it. I just used a small screw driver to pop it off, but I've seen that you can get a rag in between the panel and the crank and use that to get it off.
There are instructions on how to do it in the service manual if my advice doesn't work.
ok is everyone ignoring my problem? i know not many people have manual windows.....
[/quote]
It's actually easier to take to panels of when you don't have power windows because you don't have to worry about unplugging connectors.
The window crank is held on by a little metal clip in the shape of a "C". If you push in on you door panel around the crank and look under the crank you should be able to see it. I just used a small screw driver to pop it off, but I've seen that you can get a rag in between the panel and the crank and use that to get it off.
There are instructions on how to do it in the service manual if my advice doesn't work.
I think I just used a small screwdriver to pop one end of the clip off. You can also loop a cloth around the handle and use that to pop it off.
From the service manual:
1. Using a cloth, remove the regulator handle installation clip and remove the regulator handle.
![Image]()
To reinstall it just put the clip back in the handle and pop it back on the door. (It should be at about 2 o'clock on the door)
From the service manual:
1. Using a cloth, remove the regulator handle installation clip and remove the regulator handle.
To reinstall it just put the clip back in the handle and pop it back on the door. (It should be at about 2 o'clock on the door)
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
