I'm definitely getting this done (I live in a snowbelt...Sudbury, Ontario, Canada) but have heard that Corrosion Free is actually better than Krown. Just want your opinion on this. Apparently Corrosion Free's warranty is more comprehensive (covers more components), the undercoating is a thick clear gel (stays on longer), no dripping all over the place, and the lubrication is better. Also, the Corrosion Free needs to be reapplied every 18 months versus 12 months for Krown. Anyone actually use Krown and/or Corrosion Free? Any comments would be appreciated.
lmwitty
Heres what I found on http://www.carbuyingtips.com/car6.htm:
Typical "Extras" at Closing
Description Your Price Dealer'sCost
Rust Proofing $800 $40
Don't buy the rust proofing from the dealer.
This is pure profit for them. They charge $800 and up for it, and how do you know if it's even on the car? Most cars have 6 year/100000 mile rust warranties, so you don't need rust protection. I've have a 1988 Trans AM GTA with no sign of rust. Tell them you don't want it, and if they say it's already on the car, tell them you're not paying for it. Wash and wax your car, you'll be fine. The salesman at Pontiac told me:
"But Jeff, you know the manufacturers just coat the underneath of the car with a quick worthless spray.
You really need our extra rust proofing which is much more thorough if you want effective protection"
Ah, the impending doom sales tactic. I told him that if GM does such a lousy job like that, I don't want the car now, at any price. I'm sure GM would be interested to know that stupid uninformed salesman are sabotaging their credibility. How can the squirt job that the dealer gives you be better than the factory's?
Don't buy the paint protection!
Don't waste your money on this junk. My friend who worked at a Chevy dealer said it comes in a $5 bottle. It's just wax, and they make promises about it lasting for years. NO car wax lasts for years. Read the warranty book for "Autoarmor", it says the warranty is void if you don't wash & wax on a regular basis. The salesman tells you it lasts 2 years or more without waxing. It's amazing how gullible Americans are, tell them what they want to hear, and they'll believe it.
Typical "Extras" at Closing
Description Your Price Dealer'sCost
Rust Proofing $800 $40
Don't buy the rust proofing from the dealer.
This is pure profit for them. They charge $800 and up for it, and how do you know if it's even on the car? Most cars have 6 year/100000 mile rust warranties, so you don't need rust protection. I've have a 1988 Trans AM GTA with no sign of rust. Tell them you don't want it, and if they say it's already on the car, tell them you're not paying for it. Wash and wax your car, you'll be fine. The salesman at Pontiac told me:
"But Jeff, you know the manufacturers just coat the underneath of the car with a quick worthless spray.
You really need our extra rust proofing which is much more thorough if you want effective protection"
Ah, the impending doom sales tactic. I told him that if GM does such a lousy job like that, I don't want the car now, at any price. I'm sure GM would be interested to know that stupid uninformed salesman are sabotaging their credibility. How can the squirt job that the dealer gives you be better than the factory's?
Don't buy the paint protection!
Don't waste your money on this junk. My friend who worked at a Chevy dealer said it comes in a $5 bottle. It's just wax, and they make promises about it lasting for years. NO car wax lasts for years. Read the warranty book for "Autoarmor", it says the warranty is void if you don't wash & wax on a regular basis. The salesman tells you it lasts 2 years or more without waxing. It's amazing how gullible Americans are, tell them what they want to hear, and they'll believe it.
Understood. Just wanted to show some aspects you might not have considered. Just because you're not getting it from the dealer, doesn't mean they aren't trying to charge an outrageous amount. According to Edmunds, Mazda gives you 5yrs/unlimited miles for a rust warranty. I don't know how this compares to the warranties of those companies. If you plan on having the car for 5 years or less, you wouldn't need rust proofing.lmwitty said:
This information applies to all rust proofing. I'm not trying to debate whether or not its a necessity based on the environmental factors of your area. But theres more to consider than just that.lmwitty said:
Krown would charge me $109.95/12 months and Corrosion free $114.95/18 months...both has excellent life-time warranties for their work, as long as you stick to the reapplication schedule. That's pretty standard here in Canada. I did read the entire carbuyingtips website so am aware of their reservations. However, in areas of extreme winter salting (over 4 months+) such as Northeastern Ontario, rustproofing is a must despite manufacturer warranties. Yes, I do plan on keeping this car for the long term (over 5 years) so yet another reason to make sure it doesn't rust.
Just make sure that if you do get the rust proofing....to go back under the car while its on a lift and make sure they didn't cover up any of the drain holes.
Alot of rust proofing places tend to just cover EVERYTHING up...which actually makes the car MORE likely to rust, as water gets trapped and sits in areas for an extended period of time.
Alot of rust proofing places tend to just cover EVERYTHING up...which actually makes the car MORE likely to rust, as water gets trapped and sits in areas for an extended period of time.
I haven't had a ton of need for undercoating/rustproofing since I live in Vancouver, although my father is a big undercoating fan, but I've asked similar questions and if you live in the snow belt then yes, you should get an oil/wax based rustproofing job done every year at a place like Krown. That's what fellow Canadians (and some Americans as well of course) have told me. 
Rust proofing in an area which uses salt on the roads is an absolute must if you intend to keep the car more than 5 years.
What happens is the salt in the winter clings to your underbody, including wheel wells, but doesn't cause much rust at that time because it's too cold outside.
But then come spring and summer, the metal starts to corrode due to warmer temps, and within 6 years or so (depending on your car) , it will have perforated enough so that it is visible through the paint. At that point, it's too late.
Oil/Wax based anti-rust sprays work by providing a barrier between the moisture and metal. Most services like Krown even do the insides of door panels, so the door will not rust from the inside out. But the coating needs to be replaced yearly because on the outside some washes off or falls off with clumps of dust/dirt.
Tar based undercoating is also effective, but needs to be touched up after a few years because it cracks, and when salt water gets trapped in the cracks, you're in trouble.
Now, if you live in Vancouver or another place which uses little or no salt, you're probably going to be safe for 8 years, depending on your car. For example some cars like the old Hyundai Pony rusted within 4 years. But some high end Mercedes don't rust for 12 years because they use lots of magnesium in their steel frame and body.
What happens is the salt in the winter clings to your underbody, including wheel wells, but doesn't cause much rust at that time because it's too cold outside.
But then come spring and summer, the metal starts to corrode due to warmer temps, and within 6 years or so (depending on your car) , it will have perforated enough so that it is visible through the paint. At that point, it's too late.
Oil/Wax based anti-rust sprays work by providing a barrier between the moisture and metal. Most services like Krown even do the insides of door panels, so the door will not rust from the inside out. But the coating needs to be replaced yearly because on the outside some washes off or falls off with clumps of dust/dirt.
Tar based undercoating is also effective, but needs to be touched up after a few years because it cracks, and when salt water gets trapped in the cracks, you're in trouble.
Now, if you live in Vancouver or another place which uses little or no salt, you're probably going to be safe for 8 years, depending on your car. For example some cars like the old Hyundai Pony rusted within 4 years. But some high end Mercedes don't rust for 12 years because they use lots of magnesium in their steel frame and body.
Okay
I give, What is rust? :lol:
What is snow? 8)
Oh, I forgot...I live in Arizona....we don't have stuff like that here unless you seriously go looking for it...in the Mountains, in January..
This doesn't mean someone doesn't try to sell you undercoating though.
They call it something else...a "desert protection package" so they can up the price of the car. Not sure how the desert attacks a car's underbody.
So why don't the road crews use Calcium Chloride instead?
Understand that is a lot easier on your vehicles finish.
I give, What is rust? :lol:
What is snow? 8)
Oh, I forgot...I live in Arizona....we don't have stuff like that here unless you seriously go looking for it...in the Mountains, in January..
This doesn't mean someone doesn't try to sell you undercoating though.
They call it something else...a "desert protection package" so they can up the price of the car. Not sure how the desert attacks a car's underbody.
So why don't the road crews use Calcium Chloride instead?
Understand that is a lot easier on your vehicles finish.
I've used Krown...
I'd say, go for the Krown...
Rich
I live a little more south then you, I'm in Hamilton, and I've used Krown a few times. I put it on my 1988 Tempo and 1993 Tempo, both were bought new. I never put the Krown on every year, but I only the first two years. After that I got bored with the cars and also realized I wouldn't keep them as long as I had originally thought. In each case the two years of Krown really helped the cars. When both vehicles were traded in there was little visible rust on the car body or the underbody. On my last car, a 1998 Protege, bought used, I never used Krown. When that car was traded in for the Mazda 3, it already had some visible rust. For me it wouldn't be a question of which to use, I'd go for the Krown. On this car I'm going to skip the rustproofing for 2 reasons. First, I'm leasing this car and will not be keeping it after 4 years. Second, I'm in Hamilton and we just don't get as much snow as what we did in the years past. They do salt the roads here, but nowhere near as bad as what they do in other parts of the province.lmwitty said:
I'd say, go for the Krown...
Rich
:yay: finally an actual response to my original question about Krown and/or Corrosion Free! Thank you very much. I haven't found a single post about Corrosion Free on this or any other forum, but plenty on Krown, all rave reviews. Think I'll stick to the proven treatment. Thank you again for answering my question....
I can only speak from other people's experiences: My brother-in-law has used Krown on his pick-up every year for the last 4 years. He bought it off his dad, who bought it brand new and also did the Krown protection.
It's a 1994, and it's just in ridiculously good shape. For a pick up truck that gets a LOT of miles, rain/snow/whatever... you wouldn't know it. They swear by it, and that's what I'm going to do.
I plan on having my car for a LONG time, so 100 bucks a year is nothing compared to the price to get rust spots fixed.
Side note: maybe I've been brainwashed by the Krown website, but isn't it a good thing that the spray drips? If it's too thick, then it might not get into all the little cracks and crevices in your car.
It's a 1994, and it's just in ridiculously good shape. For a pick up truck that gets a LOT of miles, rain/snow/whatever... you wouldn't know it. They swear by it, and that's what I'm going to do.
I plan on having my car for a LONG time, so 100 bucks a year is nothing compared to the price to get rust spots fixed.
Side note: maybe I've been brainwashed by the Krown website, but isn't it a good thing that the spray drips? If it's too thick, then it might not get into all the little cracks and crevices in your car.
I rust proofed my older car through Krown, I did my research and everyone say that its great.
However how would you feel if Krown drills holes in your car? Thats part of the process, they have to drill holes on your door jams to spray the inside. I think they drilled at least 6 holes. They plug them back up with these rubber disc, but still!
I knew they had to drill holes but I didnt like that at all when they did it on my used 1996 car, I would probably feel even worse on a new car.
The sound the drill makes going into your body panel....ewwww....
I hear the "drippy" spray is the one to go for, the thicker oil/sludge block drainage holes and can cause rust.
Also if you havn't done Krown before, dont park your car in your garage for at least 24-48 hours, it will drip and make a big mess.
However how would you feel if Krown drills holes in your car? Thats part of the process, they have to drill holes on your door jams to spray the inside. I think they drilled at least 6 holes. They plug them back up with these rubber disc, but still!
I knew they had to drill holes but I didnt like that at all when they did it on my used 1996 car, I would probably feel even worse on a new car.
The sound the drill makes going into your body panel....ewwww....
I hear the "drippy" spray is the one to go for, the thicker oil/sludge block drainage holes and can cause rust.
Also if you havn't done Krown before, dont park your car in your garage for at least 24-48 hours, it will drip and make a big mess.
Yes, the drilling part makes me feel like this: :shock: However, how else can they get the lubrification/rustproofing throughout the panels? Any other type of "rustproofing" would just be superficial, not penetrating into the panels so I'll just have to ensure I'm not in the building when the drilling begins.... :uhhok:
I just read the topic on rustproofing and am not sure about Krown or corrosion free. A freind of mine works for Hyundai, so hes gonna get my car done by there guys there for cost.
Anyways, my concern is the drilling of the holes into the car. DONT ALLOW ANY PLACE TO DRILL HOLES!!! This will null the warranty aggrement!!!! I am positive about this. If you dont believe me then call your Mazda dealer and ask them yourself. The Mazda 3 comes already predrilled with holes specifically for rustproofing. When I purchased my 3, I opted out of the rustproofing package (obvious rip-off) and told him my buddy was gonna do it for me and the one thing he made sure that I knew was that if anyone drills holes into my car, it will null the warranty. I hope I caught you in time, at least have my statement checked out before you go ahead and do it.
Anyways, my concern is the drilling of the holes into the car. DONT ALLOW ANY PLACE TO DRILL HOLES!!! This will null the warranty aggrement!!!! I am positive about this. If you dont believe me then call your Mazda dealer and ask them yourself. The Mazda 3 comes already predrilled with holes specifically for rustproofing. When I purchased my 3, I opted out of the rustproofing package (obvious rip-off) and told him my buddy was gonna do it for me and the one thing he made sure that I knew was that if anyone drills holes into my car, it will null the warranty. I hope I caught you in time, at least have my statement checked out before you go ahead and do it.
Hello. Yes, you did catch me in time and I'll be sure to look into this before I have anything done. I don't see how they can ensure thorough rustproofing/lubrification without drilling so I think it's a necessary evil. However, if this voids my warranty that would really make me think twice. In my area (Sudbury), rustproofing is absolutely necessary with the 4-5 months of winter and extensive road salting. I can't see how, 5 years down the road, I could NOT have rust without some kind of protective layer.
Check into this, but I don't think that drilling the holes would void the warranty for the entire car, just the rust-through warranty, right?
If that's the case, then I'd just let them drill away, since the rust warranty is always useless anyway, since it only covers complete perforation.
Besides, wasn't there some kind of argument going on about the dealer having to prove that your "modification" caused X failure, and not the burden of proof not being the other way around?
If that's the case, then I'd just let them drill away, since the rust warranty is always useless anyway, since it only covers complete perforation.
Besides, wasn't there some kind of argument going on about the dealer having to prove that your "modification" caused X failure, and not the burden of proof not being the other way around?
That's what I'm thinking too...what's the odds of getting complete perforation versus more superficial rust? So its either no rustproofing and be covered for complete perforation but not superficial rust or rustproofing, void the complete perforation warrancy (maybe), but avoid the superficial rust.
As I said though, the holes are alread drilled for such an operation on the car. Our type of 3 is made for canadian drivers I'm from T.O.), therefore they know that rustproofing is what we all do, thats why they try to sell it to you in a package when they sell the car. Therefore they already have holes drilled, and capped i think (not positive). So what i am saying is just dont let them drill and new holes. The holes there are enough to make sure your rustproofing job is done correctly. I am not sure what part of the warranty will be nullified or if they can even break it down into parts, all the dealer told me was that the warranty will be voided if that happens. So just use my warning as a precaution, and call mazda head office or the dealership and find out for yourself.
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
