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Discussion Starter #1
I keep seeing these banners on the forum for Hoen Xenonmatch lights. Has anyone looked into them as an option on the Mazda3? What alternatives do we have locally?
 
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Polarion is an American company.

The only other option for us is to get an aftermarket xenon kit.

But do you really want to spend approx 600 - 1000 bux on that when it can go else where??

The mz3 come with white HID lights anyways... So that should be good enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I guess that $1000 could be put towards more power. A 2.3L engine should be good for at least 140kW in my opinion.

What is HID?
 

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HID = High Intensity Discharge

Basically, very bright white lights that are expensive to install but last a lot longer than standard Halogen headlights.
 

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the Mazda 3 already has projector halogens so its going to be fine unless your outback hunting kanga's!

I agree with the previous post, this is a 140kw plus capable engine.
 

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agree also, this car should be capable of more.

has anybody gone out to retune the engine to accept premium unleaded and hence at least have mazda6 power output levels?
 

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I think you also need the dual exhaust to get the mazda 6 power level.
 
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Thats right...

The dual exhaust helps it alot and is a contributing factor to the power output of the mz6.
 

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The Mazda 6 exhaust is a single exhaust that splits into two pipes.....no advantage there. In fact I think it would probably hinder flow myself.

Getting 140Kw from this engine without spending a bucketload of cash will be very difficult in my opinion.

The K&N Typhoon Cold Air Intake for the Mz6 produces about 6hp (3-4 Kw) extra add to that some exhaust mods and ECU tuning I think you would be lucky to crack an extra 10Kw.

The next step up would either forced induction or head modifications neither of those are cheap.
 

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My ltd knowledge is that the Mazda 6 engine and the Mazda SP23 engine are identical. The two key differences are the 6 has a dual exhaust (initially a larger singular pipe than on the SP23) that splits into two. And the 6 is optimised for premium fuel only.

If you optimise the SP23 for premium only and modify the exhaust to achieve parity with the 6 exhaust then you'll jump the performance up to 122kw.

It's another 18kw to 140kw, it will cost a fair bit of cash but the engine is tough enough and big enough to handle it and beyond I'd imagine.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Single/dual has nothing to do with it. My Nissan 200SX had a huge flowing turbo on it, 147kW ATF and was a single 2.5" system.

Think about the Corolla Sportivo, it's a 2.0L (I think) and pumps out 140kW from the factory.

My upgrade path would be as follows:

Cold air intake $200 ??
Unichip or Powerchip (piggyback the factory ECU, removable) ($1000)
2.5 or 3" high flow exhaust ($800)

This would include dyno time to tune for maximum midrange torque on RON 98 fuel (Optimax) and the exhaust would be within legal noise levels. I don't want them to hear me coming!

I'm guessing 130-140kW without stressing the engine, but a relatively bigger/wider torque increase is more important on the street.

So that's roughly 20% more power for $2,000. I think the leather can wait. :twisted:
 
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The cold air intake will be more around the $500 mark for a correct setup with considerable gains.

A 2.5 - 3" cat back exhaust would be way too big for an NA engine and you will end up losing alot of back pressure, hence losing low end torque.

I would think a 2.25" system would be suffice, maintaining the torque band, with a nice suiting set of hi-flow extractors.

The upgrade/piggy back on the ECU is a good idea as the last modification to tune the newly added mods.

Finally, the addition of strut bars and upgrade in suspension will dramatically increase the handling of your mz3 and will be a force to be reckoned with. :D
 

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I've strut bars on the existing SP20 hatch, the SP23 has an additional 40% rigidity so I doub't they're necessary and the suspension is already hardened compared to the standard Mazda 3. You definitely improve the handling but it wouldn't be "dramatic" unless you lowered it and by the time your done it would feel about as comfortable as riding a one humped camel through a Basra minefield.

I agree with the 2.25 suggestion, if you over tune the high end with oversize exhaust you'll end up with a corolla sportivo that has no definable difference to the standard corolla unless you thrash the snot out of it at all times and keep the rev's really really high - e.g. useless mod

Each to their own though I guess, what I'd like to do is keep the existing cars handling, tyres, basically everything so as not to break up the awesome styling and swap out the exhaust, air intake, ECU. Essentially take the factory settings and take all the conservatism away without unbalancing the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok 2.25 inch sounds the way to go by popular opinion. I guess I'm no exhaust technician, I just knew 3 inch was way too much.

I agree though, leave the ride alone unless it's getting track work or you really drive on the limit. The factory setup is the perfect balance imho, nice and firm but not annoying on low quality roads or over the speedhumps that they've kindly put in most Melbourne backstreets.

This has to be the smoothest 1300kg 4 cylinder I've ever driven in. The number of times I shift into 3rd and I'm doing 80kmh+ in a 60 zone without realising. Mazda have achieved European quality if you ask me.

One Very Happy Owner!
 

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From scanning the americans on the forum it seems there are no spec muffler upgrades available for the 3 as yet - it seems to be a unique design that may take a little while for mods to filter down to us down under (or alternatively be very expensive to custom fit). :(
 
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I've strut bars on the existing SP20 hatch, the SP23 has an additional 40% rigidity so I doub't they're necessary
No matter how rigid your car is, Strut bars will definately help when going around corners at high speeds.

It keeps the strut towers in place and minimises the roll in that area...
 

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well according to mazda, the SP23 can take either standard unleaded fuel or Premium. But I guess they could be telling me stories.

Im thinking to get some more power from the car (I haven't even got it yet!) I may buy a power chip for supposedly %10 extra power. what do you guys think about the chips?? or buying the turbo kit when it comes out ??

I dont know much about fixing or upgrading cars.
 
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Chips will only provide you substanial gains after the Air filter, extractors, exhaust is done.

Turboing and chipping the car are 2 completely different things you have to think about.

Turboing will put alot more extra stress on the engine which = shorter engine life, provide you alot extra torque, therefore increasing maintenance fees and insurance. (because the engine bay is soo clustered, i'm wondering where they're gonna fit the turbo in.)

Chipping your car keeps it NA (naturally aspirated), the airfilter, extractors and exhaust should give you an extra 15-25kw. Then adding an aftermarket chip and tuning the newly added mods and for the engine to run on premium specifically, you may be looking at another 10% on top of your current gains. (depending on the chip).

If you decide to go down the path of chipping your car, engine life is preserved as all you are basically doing is clearing up the engines breathing, and when the engine breathes better, in turn it will provide more output.

If after all this, you still feel you need a power feed, the options of turbo and supercharging are still available, but for this modern engine with S-vT i would think a supercharger would work alot better with it, also maintaining engine life. (remember - this will void your engine, exhaust, airfilter, extractors, ecu and any other mods you do to it.)
 
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