What the best oil for a 2006 MAZDA 3 SP5 HATCH?

4734 Views 20 Replies 8 Participants Last post by maudi3, Jan 12, 2007

coreanosp5

Discussion Starter · Jan 9, 2007

?

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

HouRman

· #2 · Jan 9, 2007

I'd go 5w20 Castrol Syntec, Penzoil Platinum, or maybe Mobil 1 Synthetic.

If I was rich, I'd get boutique oils like the amsoil or torco.

Since quantities in stock and sales vary, I really just look for deals and not so much stick to one brand 100%.

If there wasn't 5w20 available, I'd get 5w30.

mshu7

· #3 · Jan 9, 2007

Pennzoil Platinum FTW! Best bang for your buck these days! I've got 60+ qts. that will be going through my MZ3 over the next few years.

nova

· #4 · Jan 9, 2007

I don't know why ppl just don't buy PP & call it a day? there is still that myth that ppl fall for called hype & think that if you pay more you obviously are getting better.

That's what M1 & American Castrol are consistently trying to pull.

HouRman

· #5 · Jan 9, 2007

Right now I have PP 5w20 in my car. It was $2 per quart at Kragen after a mail in rebate of $15 after buying 6 quarts... heh

Actually my local wal mart stocks 5w20 mobil 1 full synthetic at $23 for a 5 quart jug. not bad pricing

mshu7

· #6 · Jan 9, 2007

[quote author=NoVa link=topic=66503.msg1141317#msg1141317 date=1168382130]
I don't know why ppl just don't buy PP & call it a day? there is still that myth that ppl fall for called hype & think that if you pay more you obviously are getting better.

That's what M1 & American Castrol are consistently trying to pull.
[/quote]

+1

animal4l

· #7 · Jan 10, 2007

Just a word of caution:

Once you go full synthetic, do NOT go back. Long story short: If you start putting in synthetic oil regularly and then switch back to using dino oil regularly, the seals will start leaking.

mshu7

· #8 · Jan 10, 2007

[quote author=animal4l link=topic=66503.msg1142674#msg1142674 date=1168451327]
Just a word of caution:

Once you go full synthetic, do NOT go back. Long story short: If you start putting in synthetic oil regularly and then switch back to using dino oil regularly, the seals will start leaking.
[/quote]

Not true.

animal4l

· #9 · Jan 10, 2007

[quote author=mshu7 link=topic=66503.msg1142678#msg1142678 date=1168451463]
[quote author=animal4l link=topic=66503.msg1142674#msg1142674 date=1168451327]
Just a word of caution:

Once you go full synthetic, do NOT go back. Long story short: If you start putting in synthetic oil regularly and then switch back to using dino oil regularly, the seals will start leaking.
[/quote]

Not true.
[/quote]

All I know is what I've seen. Maybe they are using better seals or additives in the synthetics these days, but is it worth the risk?

mshu7

· #10 · Jan 10, 2007

Well, it's a myth.

Now, if an engine has a lot of miles on it and it's been fed dino oil all of it's life and then synthetic is used, yes, there can be leaks. This is because synthetic oil will sometimes clean away any deposits/sludge around the gaskets. But beyond that, there should be no fear in going from synthetic to dino.

BobIsTheOilGuy.com is a great place to visit for oil-related issues.

maudi3

· #11 · Jan 10, 2007

[quote author=mshu7 link=topic=66503.msg1142949#msg1142949 date=1168462510]
Now, if an engine has a lot of miles on it and it's been fed dino oil all of it's life and then synthetic is used, yes, there can be leaks. This is because synthetic oil will sometimes clean away any deposits/sludge around the gaskets. [/quote]

This is also incorrect. The reason that a synthetic *might* leak in a higher mileage vehicle that has been ran on standard oil is because the molecules are smaller and more consistent therefore they can scavenge into smaller areas that may leak. The idea that Synthetics have a higher detergency is wrong.

mshu7

· #12 · Jan 10, 2007

Ok, I stand corrected. That makes more sense maudi3.

D Bone

· #13 · Jan 10, 2007

[quote author=maudi3 link=topic=66503.msg1143024#msg1143024 date=1168465703]
[quote author=mshu7 link=topic=66503.msg1142949#msg1142949 date=1168462510]
Now, if an engine has a lot of miles on it and it's been fed dino oil all of it's life and then synthetic is used, yes, there can be leaks. This is because synthetic oil will sometimes clean away any deposits/sludge around the gaskets. [/quote]

This is also incorrect. The reason that a synthetic *might* leak in a higher mileage vehicle that has been ran on standard oil is because the molecules are smaller and more consistent therefore they can scavenge into smaller areas that may leak. The idea that Synthetics have a higher detergency is wrong.

[/quote]

Shu's remark is what most people on BITOG also believe (me included). Maudi, where did you get your info on the smaller molecules from?

Darryl

maudi3

· #14 · Jan 10, 2007

[quote author=D Bone link=topic=66503.msg1143058#msg1143058 date=1168467160]
Shu's remark is what most people on BITOG also believe (me included). Maudi, where did you get your info on the smaller molecules from?

Darryl
[/quote]

In short, an Automotive chemist

The truest meaning of the term "synthetic" in regards to oils/lubricants means that the base fossil fuel has been synthesized to achieve the truest molecular structure. This info can also be found over there.
You guys do know that BITOG is an Amsoil Distributor's site, right?
Oh, and I believe that sixx had mentioned this fact quite some time ago, knowing this, it means that had to come from BITOG. lol

D Bone

· #15 · Jan 10, 2007

If it's true that it's an "AMSOIL site", I didn't know that. But, even if it is, there are a lot of guys over there that don't like/hate Amsway (I mean AMSOIL

) and they have a lot of knowledge.

Yea, I fully understand the base oil differences between Groups I, II, II+, III, IV and V, but it seems to be a common fact that group IV and V base oils are just higher in natural solvency then the other groups??

Darryl

maudi3

· #16 · Jan 11, 2007

[quote author=D Bone link=topic=66503.msg1143113#msg1143113 date=1168468586]
Yea, I fully understand the base oil differences between Groups I, II, II+, III, IV and V, but it seems to be a common fact that group IV and V base oils are just higher in natural solvency then the other groups??
Darryl
[/quote]

Darryl,
I am not sure that I understand... are you making a statement or asking a question?
If you are making a statement, please explain "natural solvency" for me in detail as I have never first hand heard any petro-chemical blenders mention this being a factor with synthetics.

mshu7

· #17 · Jan 11, 2007

I was also under the assumption that chemistry of true synthetic oil (POA, esters, etc.) were better for cleaning vs. the composition of a dino oil.

By the way, I'm no oil chemist and don't claim to be, rather I'm just trying to understand this topic a little better.

D Bone

· #18 · Jan 11, 2007

[quote author=maudi3 link=topic=66503.msg1143353#msg1143353 date=1168477325]
[quote author=D Bone link=topic=66503.msg1143113#msg1143113 date=1168468586]
Yea, I fully understand the base oil differences between Groups I, II, II+, III, IV and V, but it seems to be a common fact that group IV and V base oils are just higher in natural solvency then the other groups??
Darryl
[/quote]

Darryl,
I am not sure that I understand... are you making a statement or asking a question?
If you are making a statement, please explain "natural solvency" for me in detail as I have never first hand heard any petro-chemical blenders mention this being a factor with synthetics.
[/quote]

Both

Like Shu, I'm not an expert by any means. Hell, I can't even give you one example regarding "natural solvency", but I will say that is what I have learned from being on BITOG for several years. If I come across some of the threads regarding this topic, I'll post the links here, and you can read them for yourself to see if you agree or not.

Darryl

maudi3

· #19 · Jan 11, 2007

[quote author=D Bone link=topic=66503.msg1143677#msg1143677 date=1168487436]
Both

Like Shu, I'm not an expert by any means. Hell, I can't even give you one example regarding "natural solvency", but I will say that is what I have learned from being on BITOG for several years. If I come across some of the threads regarding this topic, I'll post the links here, and you can read them for yourself to see if you agree or not.
Darryl
[/quote]

Ok, I guess I simply don't understand the concept of a better oil being more "solvent" in nature, which would mean that it's composition is more acidic which is exactly the opposite of what you want in an oil. How well an oil cleans is dependant upon the detergency of it which is in the additive package, not the base stock.
Anyway, if you come across something concrete on this subject I would love to read it as I am not an "expert" either.
Oh, pertaining to BITOG, there is some good info there but there is just as much complete bullshit as well fwiw.

rpn453

· #20 · Jan 12, 2007

[quote author=maudi3 link=topic=66503.msg1143073#msg1143073 date=1168467762]You guys do know that BITOG is an Amsoil Distributor's site, right?[/quote]

It was started by an Amsoil distributor, but he doesn't own or operate it anymore.

I use synthetics in winter and conventional oil in summer. In my 3, I've been using Tech2000 or Motomaster 5W-20 in summer and Mobil1 0W-20 in winter. Synthetic oil, especially the Group III stuff, will not necessarily cause leaks and there's no problem going back and forth. I believe that some synthetic base stocks in the Group V category (esp. esters, from what I gather) can contribute to seal leaks in older engines due to natural detergency, provided there is some build-up there to remove. Group V base stocks aren't used much due to cost anyway though. There would be minimal amounts, if any, in anything you can buy at WalMart. I don't disagree with you, maudi3, on the issue of smaller and more consistent molecules in synthetics being more likely to leak out seals if the clearances are already large enough for that.

My recommendation is to ignore the buzzword "synthetic" and just use an oil that meets the specs you need, is suitable for your temperatures, and has a name you trust. Don't fear an oil because it is synthetic, but don't assume it's anything special or even superior to the dino oils on the shelf either. Follow the manual and stay with an SAE 20 oil, usually 5W-20, to avoid potential warranty hassles. Heavier oils will work fine, and possibly even protect better by an insignificant amount, but will increase fuel consumption. API SM/GF-4 is required, and it's nice to have the Ford WSS spec on there too. That spec just means it passes some additional wear testing. If you go below 0F, I recommend the oil be 0W rated too.

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