Mazda3 Forums banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2006 Mazda 3, with a clutch that's been slipping for a while. I don't drive aggressively, so I've been waiting to replace it and saving my money. The car has 177,000 miles and this is the original clutch, if you can believe it.

I'm planning to have someone do the clutch soon and replace it with the Exedy OEM clutch. This is identical to the original Mazda clutch, right? As I said, I don't drive aggressively, so I'm not looking for any performance differences over the original clutch.

What parts should I make sure are replaced, as long as the transmission is out of the car? Pressure plate? Throw out bearing? Are there things like the rear main seal that should be done? I just want to make sure I have a checklist of everything that's a good idea to replace with the clutch. Thanks for any input.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,585 Posts
Clutch, pressure plate, slave cylinder, pilot bearing, release/throw out bearing, resurface the flywheel, and the rear main seal isn't a terrible idea. Everything should be included in your clutch kit other than the slave cylinder, rear main seal and flywheel. And honestly, the slave cylinder is an external type on our cars, so it's not 100% mandatory, but I personally think it's a good idea anyway.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
@theblooms Thanks for the help! I was aware of most of that stuff, but wanted to be sure I wasn't missing something. I suppose I might hold off on the slave cylinder, since that's something I think I can do myself, if I need to.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
563 Posts
You do not need to replace your flywheel unless yours is worn beyond usefulness but since a LUK flywheel is only $75 on rock auto it might not be a bad expenditure. Zero reason to replace a properly functioning slave cylinder unless you are paranoid about it failing suddenly at a bad time. Replacing it is not part of a routine clutch job. Rear main seal 100% should be replaced. A decent clutch will last at least ten years, by then your RMS would be twenty six years old unless you replace it now.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I was talking to a recommended transmission shop. The guy seemed pretty straightforward. He said that the rear main seal parts you can get these days are not very good quality and if mine is not leaking, he would recommend against replacing it, because the original seal is much better quality.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,585 Posts
I generally get my parts from Mazdaswag, Cox Mazda, Med Center Mazda, Werner, or Quirkparts. All of them are terrific, but you must check shipping charges before your order. Sometimes the shipping can be outrageous at one site, and not too bad on another.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah, my local Mazda dealer usually charges more than the MSRP, which is crazy. I've seen that mazda-parts.com has decent prices. But then, by the time I pay for shipping, it often is as much as the local dealer anyway, or close. It only seems worth ordering from the online Mazda dealers if I need multiple parts and then the shipping cost is more than offset by the savings on the parts.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
563 Posts
My Mazda dealer gives me about a 20% discount off all parts, and there is no charge for shipping. Parts usually arrive the next day. Generally if you are friendly to the parts people and are a repeat customer many places will offer such a discount. And FWIW I have never had a single issue with aftermarket rear main seals for the Mazda 3. Another option if you want to save money is sometimes Ford dealers will sell the same part for less. The 2.5 Fusion engine uses the exact same rear main seal.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top