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Discussion Starter #1
So, my GF's 2005 Mazda 3 hatch (ATX) started to shudder when braking hard. We took it to the dealer a few days ago and the replaced the rotors and put new pads on under warranty.

Anybody else experienced warped front rotors yet? Seems unusual to me at that mileage.
 

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That's about the average life span of most brakes. The 3's rears are worn out by 40k, but the front pads could go 100k. What IS unusual is that they warrantied them, Brakes, wipers, bulbs, tires, and clutch are considered "wearables" and usually only have 12/12 warranty on them. Mine warped at about 28k, they're still warped at 42k. They're smooth untill they get hot, then the pedal starts to pulsate.
 

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Not all rear rotors and pads are worn out by 40k. I have 42k on the car and both my fronts and rears are in excellent shape. No need to replace them yet.

I am surprised that they replaced them under warranty, like Monzsta said. You got lucky then.

Does your girlfriend brake hard or ride the brakes?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
my gf doesn't have any unusual driving habits. she is a pretty docile driver, too. yes, i am very surprised that the dealership replaced both rotors and put new pads on. we are lucky! :lol:
 

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I had warped rotors at 9000km ANd then again at 35000km and than again at 60000km but the brake system was not working properly the inner pads after 35000km were gone and the outers still had 85% left. You have to make sure they lub the brke caliper slides very well and also where the brake pads slide on the caliper they have to be lubbed well also.
 

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[quote author=drumboy link=topic=65945.msg1130151#msg1130151 date=1167791512]
So, my GF's 2005 Mazda 3 hatch (ATX) started to shudder when braking hard. We took it to the dealer a few days ago and the replaced the rotors and put new pads on under warranty.

Anybody else experienced warped front rotors yet? Seems unusual to me at that mileage.

[/quote]


I'm amazed that your dealer replaced rotors and pads with 35k under warranty. 35k isn't that bad depending on driving habits and conditions. I would consider myself very lucky if I were you! :)


Darryl
 

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I had my rotors re-surfaced when I replaced the brakes at 33k. I'll see how long they last. If they last without warping until I have to change the brake pads again, I'll replace them at that time as well.
 

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Warped rotors are often due to overtightening of the lug nuts, which is common practice for monkeys with impact wrenches.
 

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your rotors will also warp if only one pad of your braking system is doing all the work. eg: replaced pads on front inners on bothsides were at 5% left and outers were at 85% witch means all your braking power is only on two pads instead of four and you are heating up one side of your rotors to much
 

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[quote author=zoomhill1977 link=topic=65945.msg1244842#msg1244842 date=1172867991]
your rotors will also warp if only one pad of your braking system is doing all the work. eg: replaced pads on front inners on bothsides were at 5% left and outers were at 85% witch means all your braking power is only on two pads instead of four and you are heating up one side of your rotors to much
[/quote]

The situation you describe is basically impossible unless the caliper is somehow defective or improperly installed. It is possible for the slides to seize up so that one pad isn't fully releasing, causing it to rub constantly while driving and heat everything up. It can't seize enough to stop the high clamping forces, but can seize enough that it won't release very easily. Maybe that's causing your rotor and bearing problems? Or maybe something is actually seriously wrong with the calipers and only one side is clamping, putting huge stresses on the rotors and bearings? Your brake system problems and your bearing problems don't sound like coincidences.
 

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Paid $390 for rear pads and rotors to be machined. After the service, my rear brakes made horrible grinding noises and sqeaks. After another try at machining, the dealer replaced one of the rear rotors free of charge. I don't know how one of the rear rotors would warp right after this service, because it was fine when I brought it in. This was all at 45,000 miles.

Would have like to get two free rotors, but you can't have everything.
 

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You guys are nuts to pay 390 bucks for some rear rotors and pads, go to the parts store and learn how to do them yourself. Rear rotors and pads should only cost you 200 bucks or less for the 3. For 390 bucks you could have gotten slotted rotors and hawk or ebc pads for god sake!
 

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[quote author=dg2006 link=topic=65945.msg1684476#msg1684476 date=1188705965]
You guys are nuts to pay 390 bucks for some rear rotors and pads, go to the parts store and learn how to do them yourself. Rear rotors and pads should only cost you 200 bucks or less for the 3. For 390 bucks you could have gotten slotted rotors and hawk or ebc pads for god sake!
[/quote]

People with jobs that consume 60 hours a week sometimes don't care to learn how to change our own brakes. Oh yeah, and the $390 does include a brake system flush, etc. so it's not only the parts you listed. Paying $150 for a few hours of labor is not a big deal. Personal preference.
 

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[quote author=silverspider link=topic=65945.msg1684134#msg1684134 date=1188687754]
Balto mofo, who is your dealer? Replacing one disc and leaving the other thin disc on the axle is not recommended.
[/quote]

Good info to know, I'll get a second opinion and replace the other disc if need be. Can you explain why it wouldn't be recommended? Thanks.

Dealer = Heritage Owings Mills.
 

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Just for the record I work 80 hours a week and still do all of my own maintenance on all 4 of my cars.
 

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[quote author=dg2006 link=topic=65945.msg1687365#msg1687365 date=1188869741]
Just for the record I work 80 hours a week and still do all of my own maintenance on all 4 of my cars.
[/quote]

Great job, superman. Like I said above, it's personal preference not "nuts."

And for the record, I work 9,000 hours a week and own 14 spaceshuttles that I test fly in outerspace each evening before I change the diapers of my 37 children. So there.
 

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Sometimes "warped rotors" respond well to the "Italian tune-up".

Ok, this works when you have the symptoms of warped rotors: a pulsation in the steering wheel or brake pedal when braking.
It could be that the rotors are actually warped and require machining or replacement, but in my experience, simply re-bedding the pads will fix this. The idea is that the surface of the rotor is uneven, possibly from some very thin layer of pad material stuck to the rotor. This creates two different friction areas on the rotor, which feels like a pulsation when you're on the brakes.

Here's how to fix it. Re-bed the pads. This takes just a few minutes and you don't even need to get dirty. Anyone can do this.

I use a procedure like this one:

http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance/burnish.php
1. Make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
2. Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
3. DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
4. Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
5. After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.

For step 4, I drive around for 15 minutes, using the brakes as little as possible. The movement helps them to cool down evenly.

The Tire Rack has a listing of the procedures for a bunch of different manufacturers.
http://www.tirerack.com/brakestechpage-1/85.shtml


Oh yeah, the "Italian tune-up" comes from those people who buy Ferraris and Lamborghinis and never drive them hard. After a while, they run like crap. That's because they were designed to run hard, and mile after mile of stop and go driving has crudded up the engine. The solution is to drive them hard once in a while. This blows out the crap that has accumulated and suddenly the engine runs right again. (Or so they say. If I was a Ferrari mechanic, I'd certainly want the "Italian tune-up" to be in my tool box.) :)
 
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