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Discussion Starter #1
I did a bit of searching and couldn't really finad any answers. My questions are...

1. How much HP and/or Torque will removing the VCTS add, does anyone have a dyno sheet?

2. I already have quite a few other mods done, and I have a check engine light on for something, I'm not sure what, I think it is my stupid ass baro sensor again, and if it is I'm not replacing that damn thing again, I'll just make friends with my CEL, anyway, my question is what CEL's will this have and how do you stop them from happening?

I had another one but forgot what is was. Oh well, that'll work for now. Any help would be great. Thank you.
 

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proally cuz there's a whole thread about the vcts removal, but i wud actually like to know the exact answers to these questions too
 

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1) no dyno's (maybe a couple hp on the top end)

2) no CEL's if done right
 

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Not if you remove the valves. Simply disabling the system only has the effect that you do not have the restriction of the valves below 3500rpms until the engine warms up like you did before. Actually removing them opens up the intake runner path a little bit, because even when they are 'open' they are still presenting a restriction. MrTea is right it is probably a smallish gain, like 2-3hp. However I really would be shocked to see zero gain.
-Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I might as well, then if for nothing else just to see what it looks like, for the sake of perhaps engineering something else to fit it....
 

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i did this last week and your not going to notice a huge difference because its not like you just installled a turbo but their is a better feel. think about it. Air wants to get threw it...the more junk in the way the worse it gets. so remove the flaps and rod and now there is less restriction. no matter what you do to it, its still a 2.3L 4 cylinder engine so no free mods are going to be amazing improvments but there is no reason you cant take things apart and make them the way they are "supposed" to be with all the free mods monzsta and bean come up with you can add a decent amount of hp and tq w/o spending a dollar. so basically i am rambling and not making sense soooo my advice is... do it :lol:
 

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I feel like an ass but I can't find the two vacuum hoses that connect to the intake manifold. I want to plug one to see if it stops my engine tick but I cant figure out which hose is which. Could anyone help me? Sorry for the stupid ? I just can't seem to figure this one out. Is it on the side/bottom/middle, etc. Thanks
 

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the only vac lines i have messed around with after the TB are the one that is in the front ( red clip) and the one above it (gray clip). I have no idea how to remove the grey one and i dont feel like busting it. the red one you just have to play around with the clip. also b4 the TB there is a blue clip holding one onto the intake tube. As for the engine ticking it could just be that it is a 4 cylinder and thats just what they do. W/o a sound clip or beingthere or location etc... i can be of no help :dunno:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
what kind of ticking is it? A fast loud tick, slow pingy type? Ticking could be alot of different things really...You may want to check the 4 hoses on the top/front area of the intake manifold if you think it is vacuum related, those are the ones that control the solinoids that open and close the VCTS butterflies. But, I'm not sure tickking would be vac related....
 

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[quote author=BlackWidow04 link=topic=68885.msg1195766#msg1195766 date=1170975802]
what kind of ticking is it? A fast loud tick, slow pingy type? Ticking could be alot of different things really...You may want to check the 4 hoses on the top/front area of the intake manifold if you think it is vacuum related, those are the ones that control the solinoids that open and close the VCTS butterflies. But, I'm not sure tickking would be vac related....
[/quote]

There are two ticks going on at the same time. One is fast and loud, the other is slow and hard. And I hear both right where the intake manifold is. When I stick my ear up to it. Definately coming from there. The hoses, are they very thin?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
yes very thin, one of the soleniods may be sticking, that could be your fast loud tick. The slow hard one though, that has me a little worried.... :?
 

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[quote author=BlackWidow04 link=topic=68885.msg1196110#msg1196110 date=1170986673]
yes very thin, one of the soleniods may be sticking, that could be your fast loud tick. The slow hard one though, that has me a little worried.... :?
[/quote]

I was at the dealership today and of course they told me its normal but they had another one right next to mine running and I didnt hear it on theirs. Mind you I have had an extensive amount of things fixed on my car. (New PCM, all new motor mounts, new battery, Control arm, entire rear suspension, etc) How do I pull the tubes, there are two per clip thingy making a total of four. I told them I think something is wrong with my intake manifold while they were installing a new hose to my TB because the other one was leaking anti freeze. What should I do? I would like to confirm its the intake manifold by proving the ticking could stop or something like posted here but I dont know how to pull the hose. Do I just tug till it comes off? Thanks guys, sorry to be a pain
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I wouldn't tug on them they may be brittle, causing leaks. I would use needle nose pliers, grab it up near the part where it slide over the opening on the solenoid, and making a twisting motion while pulling out-ward. It will work it's way off slowly and should help prevent it from tearing. Also the solenoids have an electrical plug on them, while the engine is running un-plug one, the the other, then hook them up in reverse so that you can hear the difference between the left one not working, both not working, and the right one not working. Also I was thinking that you said there are two differnt tick sound, the 2 solenoids open different valves at different rpm I think so this may explain the 2 different sound...hope that helped you some. If I'm wrong about anything, someone correct my info. Thank.
 

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[quote author=BlackWidow04 link=topic=68885.msg1196431#msg1196431 date=1170996722]
I wouldn't tug on them they may be brittle, causing leaks. I would use needle nose pliers, grab it up near the part where it slide over the opening on the solenoid, and making a twisting motion while pulling out-ward. It will work it's way off slowly and should help prevent it from tearing. Also the solenoids have an electrical plug on them, while the engine is running un-plug one, the the other, then hook them up in reverse so that you can hear the difference between the left one not working, both not working, and the right one not working. Also I was thinking that you said there are two differnt tick sound, the 2 solenoids open different valves at different rpm I think so this may explain the 2 different sound...hope that helped you some. If I'm wrong about anything, someone correct my info. Thank.
[/quote]

Thanks man, I'll try it later and post the outcome.
 
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