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Hello everyone, Eonon Android 8.0 Car GPS with Octa-Core & 4GB RAM for the cars Mazda 3 2004-2009 is available now. New features split screen mode and PIP Multitasking bring you more possibilities and entertainment. Enjoy your driving, with new Android 8.0! 0:)

Applicable Car Models
Perfect fit for your Mazda 3 2004-2009. Compatible with the original Bose system

Newest Operation System
The best combination ever with Android 8.0 Oreo system, high-end Rockchip processor of 4GB RAM, Octa-Core & 32GB ROM

Split Screen and PIP Multitasking
Split screen mode allows running two apps side by side. You can use Spotify while navigating, or visit the website while listening to the car audio. And now, Android Oreo also allows apps to be viewed in Picture-in-Picture mode. (Note: PIP feature only applicable to Google Map & VLC.)

Bluetooth
Ability to stream Spotify and Pandora from your phone via Bluetooth to enjoy millions of songs you like, and make hands-free calling while driving. Also supports displaying song information & searching contacts rapidly.

Navigation
Navigation can be achieved easily by using the online, offline map or purchasing a map card. It can quickly run all navigation apps like Google Maps, Waze, HERE WeGo, etc.

GA9151A car stereo supports keeping the original car function like most of the steering wheel control, factory dashboard and LCD screen, reversing control, car headlights and handbrake control.

:smile2: Turn the dial, get your lucky coupon under Eonon World Cup luncky deals here:
https://www.eonon.com/
Grab it Now! :bigok:
https://bit.ly/2JKu2Ua

Don’t hesitate to PM us if you have any questions on our products, thanks. :smiler:










 

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I just received and installed my GA9151A besides a few issues it's great. Warm boot is near instant and cold boot is maybe 10-15 seconds. Everything feels snappy and responsive.

Issues:

1. Fitment - The OEM radio has a rubber pin on the back that sits in a slot in the frame behind the radio to hold the weight of the radio while the GA9151A has no such pin and because of this the whole unit is hanging by the two top screws causing it to pivot out at the bottom and leave a gap between it and the A/C control panel. This has been known for years and no matter what modifications you do to the clips on the radio they will never be enough to keep the weight from rotating the whole unit forward. To "remedy" this I used some rolled up electrical tape as a spacer behind the A/C unit's brackets to bring it forward and mostly even with the radio. It's still not great and the A/C unit has some wobble.

2. Constant low level wine/hiss that only goes away with volume level 0 and slightly louder scratchy low static noise when the touch screen is used. I tried adding an additional ground cable from a screw on the unit to a frame bolt but the issue remains.

3. Bad audio quality with AUX and Bluetooth, but it sounds fine from Spotify, SD Card, and radio.

This is all on a 2008 Mazda 3 with the factory Bose system using the included Bose wiring harness.
 

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#drummr I have the GA7151A with the same issues as yours, they just keep updating without addressing the issues.

I have heard a ground loop isolator will fix the hissing/interference problem. I am yet to try that solution.
 

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#drummr I have the GA7151A with the same issues as yours, they just keep updating without addressing the issues.

I have heard a ground loop isolator will fix the hissing/interference problem. I am yet to try that solution.
Agreed. I have an older model (6000 series) and the bluetooth audio quality is pretty bad. Lots of distortion at the upper frequencies as well as static present while bluetooth audio is enabled. The annoying thing to me is that every time they release a new model they advertise improvements to bluetooth audio, and there doesn't seem to be any actual improvement at all. Unfortunately, using a group loop isolator will help with interference and static, but at the cost of your low end frequency. They will probably offer a firmware update to "fix" this issue :rolledeyes: lol
Since you guys have newer models than I, have they even improved bluetooth hands free call quality? People on the XDA forums have all kinds of fixes for replacing wires on the bluetooth board with shielded cables as well as removing the internal mic completely. People have a hard time understanding me on the phone. They describe it as if they are talking to an alien...
It's a shame these issues persist as I really want to love these head units but it is incredibly frustrating when their "engineers" just ask for proof when you describe these issues to them and then never really fix anything.:madcrazy:
 

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I don't/havent used Bluetooth calling, so I can't comment on that specifically. I didn't even install the external mic. Do you all have the Bose system or no? With the Bose system they send a wiring harness that takes the low level outputs from the head unit, runs them into a box with a control board that I assume does some signal processing, and then from there it goes out to the Bose amp. This was supposed to be "plug and play" compatibility with Bose, but they sound quality was abysmal and the low end was super muddy. Last night I did the "RCA Mod" shown here: https://imgur.com/a/U2nD4 and the audio quality has improved dramatically with some reduction in static/noise. The noise is still there, but much more bearable. I don't know what the point running the low level signals from the head unit into a signal processor board and then out to the car when they could just add some RCAs to take the line level signal to the OEM Bose amp and call it a day.

Edit: Just went back out to do some more testing, with the RCA mod the Bluetooth and AUX audio quality have improved as well, idk why. Not sure what the black box signal processor was doing but it caused the bass to be muddy and highs to be scratchy.
 

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I don't/havent used Bluetooth calling, so I can't comment on that specifically. I didn't even install the external mic. Do you all have the Bose system or no? With the Bose system they send a wiring harness that takes the low level outputs from the head unit, runs them into a box with a control board that I assume does some signal processing, and then from there it goes out to the Bose amp. This was supposed to be "plug and play" compatibility with Bose, but they sound quality was abysmal and the low end was super muddy. Last night I did the "RCA Mod" shown here: https://imgur.com/a/U2nD4 and the audio quality has improved dramatically with some reduction in static/noise. The noise is still there, but much more bearable. I don't know what the point running the low level signals from the head unit into a signal processor board and then out to the car when they could just add some RCAs to take the line level signal to the OEM Bose amp and call it a day.
Thanks for the heads up, I'll have to try it. If I ever purchase a new head unit for my car (which just hit 100,000 miles) I might look into a Belsee. They have a 9" touch screen model that supposedly supports carplay and android auto. I dont know anything about their head units but all of these android HUs seem to all run on the same internals.
 

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A new problem has popped up already, the SD CARD slot no longer reads my card. No matter what I do it says it is corrupt, but if I take it out and put it into the GPS card slot it reads it fine for now. I've tried reformatting in the unit and on my PC with the same result. This is with a SanDisk Ultra 64GB SDXC card.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I just received and installed my GA9151A besides a few issues it's great. Warm boot is near instant and cold boot is maybe 10-15 seconds. Everything feels snappy and responsive.

Issues:

1. Fitment - The OEM radio has a rubber pin on the back that sits in a slot in the frame behind the radio to hold the weight of the radio while the GA9151A has no such pin and because of this the whole unit is hanging by the two top screws causing it to pivot out at the bottom and leave a gap between it and the A/C control panel. This has been known for years and no matter what modifications you do to the clips on the radio they will never be enough to keep the weight from rotating the whole unit forward. To "remedy" this I used some rolled up electrical tape as a spacer behind the A/C unit's brackets to bring it forward and mostly even with the radio. It's still not great and the A/C unit has some wobble.

2. Constant low level wine/hiss that only goes away with volume level 0 and slightly louder scratchy low static noise when the touch screen is used. I tried adding an additional ground cable from a screw on the unit to a frame bolt but the issue remains.

3. Bad audio quality with AUX and Bluetooth, but it sounds fine from Spotify, SD Card, and radio.

This is all on a 2008 Mazda 3 with the factory Bose system using the included Bose wiring harness.
A new problem has popped up already, the SD CARD slot no longer reads my card. No matter what I do it says it is corrupt, but if I take it out and put it into the GPS card slot it reads it fine for now. I've tried reformatting in the unit and on my PC with the same result. This is with a SanDisk Ultra 64GB SDXC card.
Hi drummr, thanks for your kind feedback. No worry we will do our best to help you. :smile2:
1. Could you please take a clear picture on your car dash and show it to us? We will help you check, thanks.
2. Please follow the steps as below, enter into the Car settings and set the AMP Volume as “-15db”.
Settings--->Car settings--->Extra settings(password:123456)--->AMP Volume--->-15db
Please kindly strictly follow up with the wiring method with Bose system with the link and connect the head unit with your car.
https://www.eonon.com/UserFiles/image/new_ga9151a/accessories.png
3. Could you please tell us more about bad audio quality with AUX and Bluetooth you mentioned about?
4. As for the SD card, kindly we suggest you use SD card with capacity within 64GB. Please try to format the SD card to the format “FAT32”. If it still doesn’t help, please try with another new SD card and tell us the result. Thank you.
About the above, you will be highly appreciated if you could take a short video and show us the problem on your head unit via PM. And please kindly reply us your email, order no. or serial no. of your unit. So we can help you better, thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
#drummr I have the GA7151A with the same issues as yours, they just keep updating without addressing the issues.

I have heard a ground loop isolator will fix the hissing/interference problem. I am yet to try that solution.
Hi Fazza, has the interference problem on your head unit been resolved? Could you please PM us your email, order no. or serial no. of your unit? We will help you further, thank you.
 

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Agreed. I have an older model (6000 series) and the bluetooth audio quality is pretty bad. Lots of distortion at the upper frequencies as well as static present while bluetooth audio is enabled. The annoying thing to me is that every time they release a new model they advertise improvements to bluetooth audio, and there doesn't seem to be any actual improvement at all. Unfortunately, using a group loop isolator will help with interference and static, but at the cost of your low end frequency. They will probably offer a firmware update to "fix" this issue :rolledeyes: lol
Since you guys have newer models than I, have they even improved bluetooth hands free call quality? People on the XDA forums have all kinds of fixes for replacing wires on the bluetooth board with shielded cables as well as removing the internal mic completely. People have a hard time understanding me on the phone. They describe it as if they are talking to an alien...
It's a shame these issues persist as I really want to love these head units but it is incredibly frustrating when their "engineers" just ask for proof when you describe these issues to them and then never really fix anything.:madcrazy:
Thanks for the heads up, I'll have to try it. If I ever purchase a new head unit for my car (which just hit 100,000 miles) I might look into a Belsee. They have a 9" touch screen model that supposedly supports carplay and android auto. I dont know anything about their head units but all of these android HUs seem to all run on the same internals.
Hi xyrts, thank you so much for bringing this to our attention. We'd like to confirm if you still have the unit or not. If yes, please kindly tell us which Eonon head unit you have. We'd be happy to assist you on this regards. Thank for reaching out.
 

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Hi drummr, thanks for your kind feedback. No worry we will do our best to help you. :smile2:
1. Could you please take a clear picture on your car dash and show it to us? We will help you check, thanks.
2. Please follow the steps as below, enter into the Car settings and set the AMP Volume as “-15db”.
Settings--->Car settings--->Extra settings(password:123456)--->AMP Volume--->-15db
Please kindly strictly follow up with the wiring method with Bose system with the link and connect the head unit with your car.
https://www.eonon.com/UserFiles/image/new_ga9151a/accessories.png
3. Could you please tell us more about bad audio quality with AUX and Bluetooth you mentioned about?
4. As for the SD card, kindly we suggest you use SD card with capacity within 64GB. Please try to format the SD card to the format “FAT32”. If it still doesn’t help, please try with another new SD card and tell us the result. Thank you.
About the above, you will be highly appreciated if you could take a short video and show us the problem on your head unit via PM. And please kindly reply us your email, order no. or serial no. of your unit. So we can help you better, thank you.
1. Here is a video of the poor fitment of the unit. This is without adding tape behind the A/C unit to stop the rattling. https://youtu.be/Ci1cYu0lsac
2. Did that and still have static and noise. There's a base level of static that is always there, alternator whine, a weird bassy buzz/rumble whenever the touchscreen is used, and a louder static whenever anything is accessed over the USB ports which is 100% of the time with the Dashcam.
3. AUX and Bluetooth just sound worse than Spotify/SD Card/Radio. Not sure how else to say it. I tried using the Bose wiring adapter but it made everything sound distorted and muddy. I added male RCA plugs to the normal wiring harness to take the pre-amp output from the head unit and send it to the Bose amp which made the sound quality better, but the static and interference is still very much present.
4. I tried the 64GB Sandisk card, a 16GB Sandisk card and a 8GB Sony card, all formatted to FAT32, and all would show up as corrupted on the head unit if I put them in the "SD" slot. When they were put in the "GPS" slot they read fine. A reboot seems to fix it temporarily, but the SD cards will randomly show as corrupted until reboot. This is just in the "SD" slot and not the "GPS" slot.

The WiFi "antenna" would be much better if it was an actual antenna and not 1" bit of wire sticking out the back of the unit. Reception is quite bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
1. Here is a video of the poor fitment of the unit. This is without adding tape behind the A/C unit to stop the rattling. https://youtu.be/Ci1cYu0lsac
2. Did that and still have static and noise. There's a base level of static that is always there, alternator whine, a weird bassy buzz/rumble whenever the touchscreen is used, and a louder static whenever anything is accessed over the USB ports which is 100% of the time with the Dashcam.
3. AUX and Bluetooth just sound worse than Spotify/SD Card/Radio. Not sure how else to say it. I tried using the Bose wiring adapter but it made everything sound distorted and muddy. I added male RCA plugs to the normal wiring harness to take the pre-amp output from the head unit and send it to the Bose amp which made the sound quality better, but the static and interference is still very much present.
4. I tried the 64GB Sandisk card, a 16GB Sandisk card and a 8GB Sony card, all formatted to FAT32, and all would show up as corrupted on the head unit if I put them in the "SD" slot. When they were put in the "GPS" slot they read fine. A reboot seems to fix it temporarily, but the SD cards will randomly show as corrupted until reboot. This is just in the "SD" slot and not the "GPS" slot.

The WiFi "antenna" would be much better if it was an actual antenna and not 1" bit of wire sticking out the back of the unit. Reception is quite bad.
Hi drummr, please try with the suggestions we sent you via PM and reply us the result. We will help you further, thanks.
 

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Hi Fazza, has the interference problem on your head unit been resolved? Could you please PM us your email, order no. or serial no. of your unit? We will help you further, thank you.
I still have interference problems, very similar to drummr's problems.

still have static and noise. There's a base level of static that is always there, alternator whine, a weird bassy buzz/rumble whenever the touchscreen is used or when a door is opened and the interior lights come on.

I have it connected correctly for the Bose system.
 

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I still have interference problems, very similar to drummr's problems.

still have static and noise. There's a base level of static that is always there, alternator whine, a weird bassy buzz/rumble whenever the touchscreen is used or when a door is opened and the interior lights come on.

I have it connected correctly for the Bose system.

I encountered this with my Eonon unit as well. After my unit just died suddenly, (a common issue with these things) I swapped it for an aftermarket Kenwood unit and noticed I still had the alternator whine/buzz. The issue stems, primarily, because the grounds on this car are attached to painted metal. The hell kind of ground can we have over paint?!


Wire a ground from the head unit's harness directly to the floor or one of the existing grounds that are at the left or right of the car (I used the right ground at kick panel; used a wire cleaner to get rid of the paint). No more alternator whine. Completely gone.


These Eonon units are garbage for audio quality though. On the flip side, getting one inspired me on my car audio journey. Ended up getting an optical in/TOSlink DSP and running a USB DAC with optical out to a Helix DSP so I could have good quality sound. There was no other way to get good audio from these units. They're garbage for that no matter what you do unless you're sending the signal elsewhere for processing.



I will say that despite the issues, I would buy another Eonon or other Chinese Android unit. They're fun to hack and with the Malaysk ROM are great. Eonon themselves is a pretty decent company even if the products they sell are cheap.


Are these units worth the $300+ price tag? I'd say yes only if you have the money to burn. Otherwise, spend $100 on a decent unit or put that $300 toward better speakers or a better amp.
 

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Hi drummr, please try with the suggestions we sent you via PM and reply us the result. We will help you further, thanks.

The firmware update did not fix the static. There is still all the same static as listed before and HORRIBLE alternator whine that makes it sound like I have a supercharger. I tried adding an additional frame ground directly to the chassis of the unit but that did nothing to help.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The firmware update did not fix the static. There is still all the same static as listed before and HORRIBLE alternator whine that makes it sound like I have a supercharger. I tried adding an additional frame ground directly to the chassis of the unit but that did nothing to help.
Well noted and replied you via PM. Please find and check it, thanks.
 

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I still have interference problems, very similar to drummr's problems.

still have static and noise. There's a base level of static that is always there, alternator whine, a weird bassy buzz/rumble whenever the touchscreen is used or when a door is opened and the interior lights come on.

I have it connected correctly for the Bose system.
Well noted and replied you with advice via PM. Please find and check it, thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I encountered this with my Eonon unit as well. After my unit just died suddenly, (a common issue with these things) I swapped it for an aftermarket Kenwood unit and noticed I still had the alternator whine/buzz. The issue stems, primarily, because the grounds on this car are attached to painted metal. The hell kind of ground can we have over paint?!


Wire a ground from the head unit's harness directly to the floor or one of the existing grounds that are at the left or right of the car (I used the right ground at kick panel; used a wire cleaner to get rid of the paint). No more alternator whine. Completely gone.


These Eonon units are garbage for audio quality though. On the flip side, getting one inspired me on my car audio journey. Ended up getting an optical in/TOSlink DSP and running a USB DAC with optical out to a Helix DSP so I could have good quality sound. There was no other way to get good audio from these units. They're garbage for that no matter what you do unless you're sending the signal elsewhere for processing.



I will say that despite the issues, I would buy another Eonon or other Chinese Android unit. They're fun to hack and with the Malaysk ROM are great. Eonon themselves is a pretty decent company even if the products they sell are cheap.


Are these units worth the $300+ price tag? I'd say yes only if you have the money to burn. Otherwise, spend $100 on a decent unit or put that $300 toward better speakers or a better amp.
Hi eatsushi, thanks for your comments on Eonon. :smile2: Eonon products are neither the cheapest nor the most expensive. But our products are with solid quality and we provide you top-level customer service (60 day money back and 2 year warranty). You can see many of our customer like Eonon a lot here: https://resellerratings.com/store/Eonon Please feel free to contact us no matter you have any questions on Eonon products. We will do our best to help you, thank you.
 

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The firmware update did not fix the static. There is still all the same static as listed before and HORRIBLE alternator whine that makes it sound like I have a supercharger. I tried adding an additional frame ground directly to the chassis of the unit but that did nothing to help.

Are you running the ground that is coming out of the harness to the floor? I had alternator whine until I changed that ground. I swapped in higher gauge wire and then took it over to the chassis. Grounding to the unit didn't do anything.


I would be truly impressed if they are able to fix this in software.
 
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