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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, here is tax season! I decided I wanted to finally do some internals on my engine before I go any further. I already have intake, exhaust and all the free mods done. I'm looking for rods/pistons/rings/cheese/steak!

I've never gone this far on a moding a vehicle and I want to do it.

1. White kind of piston/rods should I go with?
2. Which compression ration should I focus on that will also be preperations for turbo?
3. Do they have upgraded cams for MZ3's?
4. What kind of horse power gain with rods and pistons?
5. What kind of horse power gain with upgraded cams, if available?

Any input would be much appreciated.

Thanks~
 

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You better not be doing that man. :lol: I will turbo mine before you know it (just kidden)

1. supertech piston and eagle rods

2. 8.1 compression

3. Not yet

4. If you preparing for boost, you will lose horsepower

5. No Idea

I hope this gives you an idea man. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok, lets assume, I dont want a turbo and I am strictly looking for pure horsepower from my car, yes a 4 banger.
I already have intake, exhaust, and headers. How can I get more horsepower out of my car? I would think that
pistons, and rods would make a significant improvement.
 

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You want higher compression if you are going NA and lower if you are going FI. If you are going FI then you may want to wait till you are going to do the turbo and install the internals at the same time. If you install before hand you will lose a lot of power. I'm not sure on the exact gains since it would depend on what compression you get. I dont think the rods themselves give a performance boost. They are more a strength thing. The pistons are what makes the power change.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, I know the rods dont really add HP, but you can get light weight rods. What is the compression ratio of a stock 2004 2.3? I could go 12:1 cpr and pickup some extra hp.

If i put higher compression piston, what else should I replace? Lifters, valves, and seals?
 

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[quote author=prototype99 link=topic=134552.msg2892436#msg2892436 date=1233025609]
You want higher compression if you are going NA and lower if you are going FI.
[/quote]

This has been said a lot around here, but it's really only true if you're pushing so much boost that you can't adjust the timing enough to keep it from pre-detonating. Personally, I'd rather keep a relatively high compression so power out of boost is still good, and just not turn up the boost to a level where you're getting knock. You can still get great power with reasonable amounts of boost even with higher compression engines... as long as everything else can hold the power.
 

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if you're staying NA you can get up to 14:1 compression pistons from supertech on protegegarage.

if you want to boost eventually then i would suggest maybe 9.5:1 as a moderate ratio, it's that the disi on the speed runs stock... if you want to go big boost then go 8:1.

rods i would say eagle, they are cheapest. while you have it apart get a ranger crank too and get rid of the balance shaft gear...

for head work you can get titanium retainers and heavy duty springs, although they are pretty much only good if you want high rpm performance.

if you change the compression ratio you'll need a tuning solution.

and cams, there are some cams for the duratec. only 1 person has upgraded their cams (aminzer) and he is running a full universal AEM standalone which can read the cams correctly. no cams are direct replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
What kind of gains am I looking at with the 14:1? Are we talking 20hp? Just replacing the head springs with allow for higher rpm, I thought that we have a REV limiter on the 3. What options are available for tuning?
 

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if you run a standalone you can set your own limiter.

tuning options are standalone, or wait for standback2 to come out. i would wait for the standback.

and with 14:1 i have no idea. i know the cosworth engine runs 12:1 and is 250 crank HP.
 

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Cosworth engine is a bit more then just pistons and rods though. A whole lot more...
 

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It comes with a barrel throttle intake system, Cosworth valve train, Cosworth pistons, con rods, extrude honed ported head and an auxiliary drive including alternator.
 

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the long block doesn't have an intake... and the only difference in the head is it has stage2 cams, springs, and retainers.

springs and retainers only serve to raise the rev limit more or less.
 

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and the barrel throttle intake system and extrude honed ported head on the full engine.
 

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full and long block are both rated at 250hp.
 

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I really wouldn't get into 12:1 compression ratios. You'll need access to high octane fuel and some real good tuning (especially for startup) to prevent knock.

On that note, I wish someone made 10.8:1 pistons. 11:1 and 11.6:1 are available, however.
 
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