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Wheel specs (diameter, width, and offset): 18" x 8.5", +55 offset
Tire specs (e.g. 225/40/18): ONE OF MY MAIN QUESTIONS, I would love to know your opinions
Suspension (shocks/struts brand, spring brand, or coilover specs): Stock, would like to eventually lower it a bit.
Fenders rolled/pulled already? No, stock
If not... willing to roll/pull your fenders? Yes, will do some hw on the effects/possible damage etc.
Additional details (camber settings, intended use, other issues, etc... optional): None really.

Hey guys,

So I somewhat went on an impulse and bought some STI 08 stock wheels for $250 off craigslist, they're in VERY nice condition (have a minor scuff here and there but not noticeable unless looking for it). They're a bit on the heavy side (27.5lbs if I'm not mistaken, which is the reason why I said they were a bit of an impulse buy but gd damn it are they pretty) and have a higher offset that I think recommended but I'm sure I can make the wheel fit with the right tires and spacers. Reason I'm posting this thread is to ask you all what your recommendations are as far as Tires and Spacers (I assume they're needed, complete rookie when it comes to wheels) go (if I need to roll the fenders then I need to roll the fenders, but honestly I would prefer not to if possible). Thanks to anyone in advance who responds WITH HELPFUL INFO.

P.S. - Where can i buy new center caps from?? I really do not want to be repping STi...

*The face*
 

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^ You are completely fine with +55 offset and stock suspensions. There shouldn't be any rub in the near. I would do 225/40/18 for your tires, should give you a decent stretch or 235/40/18. Why don't you get your current center caps painted or something haha

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
 

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Hi

I have 2011 sedan 2.0i Touring,
Totally stock.
Now running 225/45R18 with 8.5x18 ET42.
Planning for Pro kit and Koni orange, hit or fit?

tnx
 

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Bolt Pattern: 5x114.3 Rim Width: 8.5
Hub Bore: 73.1 Rim Diameter: 18
Rim Brand: VarrsToen Offset: 35

On a second gen Skyactive hatch Stock everything. going to lower it on eibachs. Trying not to pull fenders. fit yey or nay?
 

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Hey all salutations and all of that stuff. I was a long time member I've had 3s since 04 two speeds blah blah. I moved to a WRX W/ no speed available this model year, but I talked my wife into her first Mazda. It's an I touring 4 door w/ the 16 inch stockers. So I have a set of wheels off of my 07 speed sitting in our utility closet collecting dust, and was wondering if these would fit her car, and if so what size rubber would be best to keep a"stock" look?
 

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Hey all salutations and all of that stuff. I was a long time member I've had 3s since 04 two speeds blah blah. I moved to a WRX W/ no speed available this model year, but I talked my wife into her first Mazda. It's an I touring 4 door w/ the 16 inch stockers. So I have a set of wheels off of my 07 speed sitting in our utility closet collecting dust, and was wondering if these would fit her car, and if so what size rubber would be best to keep a"stock" look?
Absolutely; nothing is different.
Keep the same size tire that was on there since that's the OEM spec. so it doesn't throw off the speedo or anything.
 

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Tire Fit

Hey I looked through the other posts but couldn't find my answer.

I currently have 205/50/16 tires on my mags and want to put on 225/50/16 tires on them.

just wondering

A) if it will fit properly
B) if so, what problems can be caused by putting on a wider tire?

would appreciate the help.

Thanks.


edit: Car is Mazda3 2005 2.0
 

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Hey I looked through the other posts but couldn't find my answer.

I currently have 205/50/16 tires on my mags and want to put on 225/50/16 tires on them.

just wondering

A) if it will fit properly
B) if so, what problems can be caused by putting on a wider tire?

would appreciate the help.

Thanks.


edit: Car is Mazda3 2005 2.0
I initially considered this exact upgrade, myself.

Geometrically, the fit is correct. The two tires sizes have almost exactly the same diameter. However, many posts in this forum and others have repeatedly indicated that attempting to fit a 225-width tire onto a 6.5" rim is not a recommended fit. You should also be mindful that inside wall of the tire will be approximately 11mm closer to the suspension strut. That should clear, too, but that's not really the point.

If you have the stock 6.5" wheels (which I'm assuming, b/c you did not mention otherwise) there is going to be a fairly sizable sidewall-overhang with 225 tires. all that unsupported rubber hanging over the edge of the rim is going to fold more easily under cornering loads, and may not lead to much or any gain as far as handling.

Check other posts within this forum, or resources like tire rack in order to figure out what will and won't work. at least a 7" rim is recommended for the tire size you specified. 7.5" will work too with stock suspension/fenders if you get a wheel with proper offset.

If I've incorrectly stated something critical here, someone please correct me.
 

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The "Will This Fit??" Thread (Please Read OP Before Posting)

Wondering how these would ride. I am lowered on Tein S-tech springs 1.5" and yes I'm willing to roll fenders

Front: ESM 004 17x8 +35 1.5" lip/ Hankook ventus V12 205/45/17
Rear: ESM 004 17x9 +40 3" lip/ Hankook ventus V12 215/45/17
 

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Hey guys! Real quickly, I'm going for a little wider setup. I have my fenders already rolled for precautions. Can you tell me what tires I should run with this setup. 18x8.5 +45.

Will I be fine with running 215/40/18 or 225/40/18 in the back? Or will I rub?

Lowered on ProKits
 

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New Wheels / Tires ... how it was done.

Hey there! This isn't so much a "Will it Fit?" as much as an "It will Fit" post. Thanks to reading a bunch of posts on these forums and patiently doing a lot of research, I've successfully made what I feel is a pretty nice upgrade to my car.

I wanted to share some learnings, findings, and tools, that I came across during my quest to upsize my stock wheels/tires. I hope these will help some fellow noobs like myself, and welcome suggestions or corrections to my post.

Quick prelude: I live in Minnesota, drive a 2012 skyactiv 5-dr i Touring and had a set of General Altimax Arctics on my stock skyactiv rims. Those babies work fantastically well in the winter. So, being a spirited driver, I wanted to upgrade from the OEM Bridgestone Turanzas for non-winter driving. This was done with no fender roll and stock suspension; I can't/don't want to get into suspension lowering when I have to deal with snow and winter, so I needed something compliant with those stock settings. That's where the story begins.

Knowing very little aside from "Wider is Better" from those Pontiac commercials in the 90's, and that different rubber compounds could lead to more grip, I set off.

I did some preliminary research on Tire Rack and settled on the Ultra High-Perf All-Season category. We only get decent weather for maybe 6 months of the year, with the bookends of that period being frequently chilly. Full on Summer Tires or Max Perf Summer rubber just didn't make sense. If it snowed or frosted over when I didn't expect it, I'd be sunk.

The General G-Max AS-03 stood out as the winner due to a combination of a great Tire Rack Review, many available sizes, and a great price. My Altimax Arctics had served me well so I called upon the General again. The Hankook Ventus and Continental ExtremeContact DWS were close considerations, but fell short either due to rain/light snow grip, or cost.

Then I wanted to see if I could get away with keeping the stock rims. I could upgrade from 205/55R16 to 225/50R16 and maintain the overall diameter of the tire, keeping the speedo accurate. I quickly learned that attempting to fit such a (relatively) wide tire over a 6.5" rim was not going to be the way to go. The Turanzas already hang over the lip of the wheel quite a bit and more overhang didn't seem good.

Next, knowing I needed to upsize my rims to 7 or 7.5" wide, I looked at cost and more importantly weight. While I've yet to really find a good empirical explanation of how increasing unsprung mass affects acceleration and braking, I knew that making the wheels heavier was going to be bad. I found some super light wheels but they looked like crap (IMO) and wasn't willing to sacrifice the look for the weight.

It seems that the stock 2012-2013 Skyactiv wheels run a skosh over 19lbs in weight. I ended up settling on 17" diameter Sport Tuning T2 wheels (7.5" wide) that ended up being about exactly as heavy. I was very content being able to move to a +1 size, gain an inch of width, and most importantly gain no weight in the process. Car and Driver did a similar upsizing experiment on a VW Golf but their 16" to 17" upgrade resulted in the wheel/tire combo gaining 8lbs total (each) so I once again can't really define the gain I achieved, but figured it had to be good.

According to Tire Rack, the EL-400 Turanzas weigh about 21lbs apiece. I more or less found this to be the case by weighing my four defunct tires and seeing the average come in at just over 21 pounds. The 225/45ZR17 sized G-Max AS-03 weighed almost exactly the same on Tire Rack as the OEM Turanzas, which I essentially validated by weighing the new, summer wheel/tire combo on my scale at an average of 40.5lbs each. So no weight gain in the end product, but a big size gain in tire width, wheel width, and wheel diameter.

The question that I diligently researched during all this was "will it fit?" This forum had a lot of good posts (including this fitment guide - but which focused on a rather extreme fit) and I learned a lot. It also left a lot of specific and general questions unanswered... the most important being, "will it fit?" In my situation, having to swap back to the winter wheels meant lowering my car, rolling the fenders, and fitting super-wide rubber, just didn't make sense for the few months of the year that we get genuinely nice weather.

Here's what I found really mattered for someone making an upgrade while keeping other things stock (though some are universally important). I'll share a few lessons and tools at the bottom, here, beginning with the most frustrating.

Offset: This was something that really frustrated me. What the hell was offset? Could I adjust it? Why is it so important and so confusing?

Offset is the distance from the centerline of the rim, to the mounting point where the lugs bolt on. This easy cheatcode tool at willtheyfit.com made things easier to understand. The link is set up to default to the 2012-2013 skyactiv specs. Check out the other sticky threads to get your info if you have a different vehicle. Play around with your desired wheel upgrade and you can see what difference is being made.

To clarify another question, Offset isn't something you can adjust with a tool in your tool chest. Offset is inherently defined by the wheel in question, but can be reduced in effect, by adding wheel spacers. Spacers have their own potential drawbacks, but adding a 5mm spacer to your stock wheels will drop the offset of the stock wheel from +53 to +48, pushing it 5mm outward toward the fender.

I'm hoping that me posting this link and a brief explanation, plus the math used in the aforementioned fitment guide (link above) to calculate outer and inner clearance (fender and strut clearance, respectively), will alleviate headaches for future users. As indicated in the fitment guide, if it looks like it's gonna be close, you will want to take measurements yourself to ensure a fit, be it clearing the strut or the fender.

Additionally, while millimeters don't seem like much, they can add up. If you drop the offset by 20mm, remember that that's 2 full centimeters, which is the better part of an inch. That's 2cm fewer that your lugs can actually screw onto the mounting part of the wheel.

Bolt Pattern: Almost all Mazda vehicles (all 3's, including Speed models) use the same bolt pattern (5x114.3mm). Find a wheel with the same bolt pattern or else it will not bolt to the vehicle properly.

Hub Bore: also known as "Center bore", this is the diameter of the central hub mounting point on all Mazda3 models - which is 67.1mm. While bolt pattern is non-negotiable, and offset is a variable that you cannot change (but rather choose, via wheel selection), this falls somewhere in between. You cannot mount a wheel with a smaller bore than 67.1mm. It would have to be bored out, which requires precise machining. Running a wheel with a larger bore requires the complement of a centering ring, which essentially fills in the difference between the wheel bore and the hub bore.

Wheel Diameter: This is, in a way, somewhat less critical, but is important to note. I wanted my speedometer to remain as accurate as possible, so tire diameter was a priority. I found Tire Rack to be a great resource for identifying the height of a specific tire, which can vary slightly from model to model even if if the tire is categorically the same size.

Here is a nice tool to see the implications of different sizes.

Final Findings: I leaned heavily on Tire Rack for finding proper wheels and tires. However, searching for my car alone didn't net me the results I wanted. Knowing that the speed3 runs wider/larger wheels & tires, I plugged a 2012 MS3 into Tire Rack's wheel finder and set the search parameters to 17" wheels. I knew I could get away with fitment as far as Hub Bore and Bolt Patterns, as the big brother Speed version of the 3 uses the same specs as the baby brother mz3.
It seemed that a 7.5" wide rim was a better fit for 225 width tires, which represented a sizeable increase over the stock 205 section width tires. I found a wheel sized in a +42 offset that looked visually acceptable and didn't weigh too much. I put those specs into the calculator (here) and knew it would easily clear the suspension from reading the Fitment Guide sticky. For the same reasons I knew I was good on fender clearance, having used that sticky as a reference as well.

What I've ended up has made me very happy. In a nutshell:
-Visually upgraded to a 17x7.5" wheel, up from OEM 16x6.5"
-Upgraded to wider 225/45 rubber, up from OEM 205/55, gaining nearly an inch of section width.
-Upgraded from eco-mindful all-season touring tires, to Ultra High-Perf All Season rubber.
-Due to reduced offset and wider tire, increased the front track of the car by nearly 2 full inches.
-No overall increase in weight of tire/wheel combo.


So yeah, pretty happy with that. I've ripped up a few roads and noticed a massive difference. Plus I think the car looks sweet, the wheels sit flush, and I hope that these findings and tools I encountered help some people as they look to make mods of their own. Here's a pic ... there are more here.



Cheers
-Knight
 

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2010 mazda 3 sedan stock height
i just bought XXR 527 17x8.25 +35 will these tires fit? 215/55r17 Michelin Primacy mxv4 and will i have any problems rubbing on the struts or fenders?
 

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Gen 2 5-dr
Racing Beat Springs on Bilstein B6/HD
17x7.5 offset 48mm
225/45/17

I believe these would work easily on the OEM springs given the height, and it looks like they will work with the Racing Beat drop, as it introduced negative camber.

The camber introduced by the drop is a little too severe for my taste, so I hope to dial some of it away with camber arms. I am wondering if I will be able to get back to the stock camber (-1.6-1.8) or if I will rub.

I'm not sure just where the rear is right now. Scheduled to get it checked Friday morning. I would guess it's 2.3-2.5 based on highly accurate internet reference photos. It looks very tucked compared to OEM for such a conservative drop...

Any help or insight appreciated.
 

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Wheel specs (diameter, width, and offset): 18X8.75 +35
Tire specs (e.g. 225/40/18): 225/40/18
Suspension (shocks/struts brand, spring brand, or coilover specs): Road Magnet 1.25" drop
Fenders rolled/pulled already? no/no
If not... willing to roll/pull your fenders? Yes / No
Additional details (camber settings, intended use, other issues, etc... optional):

camber on the car as it sits is -1.4/1.6 in the front ~-2.5 in the rear

will I need to roll and pull/just roll etc. any advice would be greatly be appreciated. I'd really rather not pull if possible
 

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Im looking for some help please. I've been to a few websites
(Tirerack, Streetdreams, Ebay, 1010 tires and Enkei) and I'm getting mixed answers if a wheel will fit. The wheel is listed as a truck wheel on Enkei and I wonder if that is the reason behind the mixed answers. Thank you for any help anyone can offer. From everything that I know (which is little lol) this wheel should fit.

Tire rack- No
Ebay- No
1010tires- Yes
Streetdreams- Yes

Enkei (Unsure)

The wheel is for a 07 Sedan Sport

Brand Enkei
Model CUV
Exterior Matte Gray
Manufacturer Part Number 495-775-6545GR
Construction 1-piece
Rim Diameter 17 inches
Rim Width 7.50 inches
Bolt Pattern (Number of Holes) 5
Bolt Pattern (Pitch Circle Diameter) 114.3 millimeters
Offset 45 millimeters
HUB BORE 72.56
 

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hey guys I am running 215/55/r17 on 17x8.25 currently looking for thinner tires but I recently bought eibach sport line which lowers the car 2 inches. How much will i have to roll my fenders and will i rub on the strut? Need help as soon as possible!
 

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I got my old/almost new winter tires- but the size is 205/65/16; 1.6 inch larger diameter than stock 205/55/16... so... will it fit? or just too big?
 

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So I have a 2010 Mazda 3 iTouring with stock suspension and stock wheels (16x6.5 205/55/16)

Can I put (17x6.5 205/50/17) OEM wheels on it without any issue?

Like do I just take off the old wheels and put in the new ones and good to go?

This stuff is completely out of my realm and I have no idea what I'm doing.
 

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So I have a 2010 Mazda 3 iTouring with stock suspension and stock wheels (16x6.5 205/55/16)

Can I put (17x6.5 205/50/17) OEM wheels on it without any issue?

Like do I just take off the old wheels and put in the new ones and good to go?

This stuff is completely out of my realm and I have no idea what I'm doing.
You will need new tires for your new rims because the old ones are smaller and tire won't fit on new bigger rims
 
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