THE UNOFFICIAL F2 CAI FAQ
F2 (black) and AEM
F2 (black) and AEM
COMMON KNOWLEDGE, OR SHOULD BE:
- Fits both MTX and ATX (original version only fits MTX)
- Fits both 2.0L and 2.3L engines
- CAI intake diameter = 3.0"
- CAI diameter is reduced by a removable 5" long urethane reducer in the MAF section to give the ECU a better voltage reading
- CAI tubing is connected by a 3.0" coupler
- CAI connects to the TB via 3.0"-2.75" reducing coupler (original version only came with 3.0" couplers)
- Mounted to the frame via vibration mount
- Tubing normally comes in Black powdercoat
- Comes with ASPEC dry filter (blue in color; dry meaning it's not oiled)
- Outerwear Pre-Filter (black) is an option
Here is the breakdown for the current (03/07) group buy:
(Note all prices include shipping to the US only, canada will add $12.00)
$185.00 w/AEM Dryflow airfilter
$185.00 w/K&N airfilter
$170.00 w/dry airfilter and outer wear
$155.00 w/dry airfilter only
outerwear is $15 or $20 extra (F2 will verify pricing on that)
Special powder coating colors please add another $10.00
NOW FOR THE FAQ. SOME QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS HAVE BEEN UPDATED FOR THIS THREAD.
FILTER / OUTERWEAR / SPLASH SHIELD:
Do you need to go through the splash shield to take off the filter, or can you do it up from the top of hood?
Go through the splash shield and the wheel well cover. I only had 1 screw holding the left splash shield and 1 clip holding the bottom section of the wheel well so checking and replacing anything if needed only took <5mins.
Is there a difference between "outerwear" and "pre-filter"?
Both are the same. It's also called intake condom by some members. Outerwears is the company that makes them and they make pre-filters. Here's their website: http://www.outerwearsracing.com/index.taf
"Outer wear" is what, exactly?
It looks like a very fine water repellent net that keeps dirt particles from touching the the filter. The outerwears are hydrophobic, though my small tests reveal that they can resist droplets of water, a very minute amount passes through. Further testing shows that 15mL poured from 1ft 5 times would have about 10ml passing through. 15mL poured from 6" away 5 times showed less than 5mL passing through. If that isn't hydrophobic for a pre-filter, I don't know what is. If you still want the most resistant, get an hydro shield and be done with it.
Where can I buy the outerwear pre-filter for my F2 if mine didn't come with one?
http://f2usa.com or http://www.sportcompactindustries.com
How much extra is the outerwear for the K&N filter
Should be around $15-$20
Was wondering as to the difference between AEM dryflow and the K&N and I DEFINATLY want AEM synthetic dryflow now. Should you still have outerwear w/ the AEM? I'm really liking the maitenance, or lack thereof, for the AEM dryflow, also looks like it should filter better. Is there a lack of flow w/ the AEM? If they end up giving us the AEM what model filter would we need?
Here are K&N's and AEM's info pages: http://knfilters.com/facts.htm & http://aempower.com/ViewCategory.aspx?CategoryID=93 Bottom line: AEM will not outflow K&N. Outerwears are there for extra protection and to keep of the bigger particles from getting stuck to the filter.
Why get the K&N filter instead of the normal ASPEC dry filter?
K&N will offer better filtration because it's oiled and should have the same amount of flow
How is the dry filter different then the AEM Dryflow?
It outflows the AEM Dryflow and does not filter as well
So the a-spec is basically a K&N filter right? The others that are dry-flow I take it are paper? I just want to make sure I am selecting the optimal option.
Filtration: STOCK (paper) > AEM Dryflow (polyester) > K&N (4-6 layer cotton gauze + closed or open top) > ASPEC (4 layer cotton gauze + open top)
Flow: K&N > ASPEC > AEM Dryflow > STOCK
Does the K&N or AEM Dryflow need the outerwear?
A-spec is like K&N: cotton gauze. The AEM dryflow is synthetic and does not seem to flow as much as the a-spec. I tried the AEM dry-flow on my F2 and posted it up on the FS section a few minutes later: http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=50546.0 I like K&N, but I don't like the washing and oiling maintenance required (i've oiled a ton of them before I got a 3). K&N + the outerwear = less maintenance, good filtration and flow.
Is ASPEC a good company like K&N?
Aspec makes "general" items (filters, piping, knobs, spoilers, etc), while K&N specializes in filters and intakes.
Any other members with AEM Synthetic Dryflow experience?
Where's the cheapest place to get a splash shield?
http://www.2kracing.com/product_info.php/cPath/23/products_id/2764 $17.99 (pic of it installed, below)
So what filter would you get?
I've had no problems with the ASPEC filter. I got the outerwear almost a year later when i got another F2. Since you have the option, i say go with the K&N. Its cheaper to get it now then buying it later, and you can clean it with the $10 Recharger Kit if it ever gets really dirty. If I had to buy this again, I'd probably still get it with the ASPEC and outerwear.
WATER INGESTION/CEL CONCERNS:
I just want to get the one that's the most water resistant. I have the sedan and I've read the thread about water collection and dripping on the filter and eventually CEL. I don't need a $200 part destroying a $2000+ engine.
The 2 sedan owners that have had the F2 longer than anyone else is Chibana [I've haven't heard a peep of a CEL from his F2] and myself. My daily driven 3 was never garaged and has been through several days in the rain- even the horrible thunderstorms we had last year and has also been driven as hard as possible in the rain. I've never gotten a CEL from it.
Hydrolock/dripping concerns will only be permanently eased by buying an SRI. If you want the F2 CAI, then buy a splash shield like the Injen's http://www.sportcompactonly.com/images/products/2230/2230-l.jpg . A filter is just an air filter, not a water filter. It's going to be wet no matter what press release you read or what mesh it's made out of: cotton, steel, urethane, paper, polyester, etc. It doesn't matter if it's oiled or not.
Yes, the filter will get wet in the rain, so does AEM's and Fujita's being that the filter is so close to the wheel well. It's up to the owner's best judgement whether to drive hard or not knowing full well what can happen. If the filter is wet and he accelerates hard in an onramp and the intake sucks water/droplets into the MAF sensor, the ECU will panic, throw a cel, and the car will jerk. And while you have that CEL, your car sometimes wont' let you rev above 4k until you dry up everything. From trbab's F2 scare: "...and merging on to 45, i hit the gas, the car jolts, and the infamous CEL comes on." Anyone with a CAI can easily reproduce the same CEL by going to a carwash, and flooring to redline it as you leave. Anyone who've ever had CELs from a wet MAF sensor will think nothing of it and just wait till everything dries up. Those who haven't had that much experience with it, will say "oh shit, i might need a new engine".
[quote author=thebeansoldier's "Twin Charger Review" link=topic=64756.msg1110329#msg1110329 date=1166343537]
This is great for warm/summer weather, but you have to be really careful during rainy days. I triggered a CEL going on an onramp during the rain- twice. It's no big deal since it didn't go into limp-home mode, and the CEL went away the next morning on both occasions. The CEL was MAF high input. That happens when a local wash doesn't know you have a CAI and sprays the bottom of the car hard and/or you create enough suction to have a mist cool your MAF's hotwire (ecu then thinks there's way too much air than normal, then triggers a cel). I suggest purchasing a pre-filter/outerware instead of a metal splash shield so you don't cover any of the cold air being pulled from the ducting. I put my F2's pre-filter on it and went through that same wet onramp to redline hard with no CEL.
After reading the right up in the NA stage 2 upgrades is it really necessay to have a prefilter with the F2? Sounds like the filter might be in a good location to avoid hydro lock.
Not only is it an extra protection against water droplets/splashes and dirt, it saves you from cleaning the crap from your filter after several thousand miles of use. It repels water very well while still being breathable. From the pics on the SCI website, it doesn't look like much, but when you actually see it up close, you'll see why it's a nice piece- and it doesn't even block air flow.
Are these CAI CARB (California Air Resource Board) legal?
They don't have a CARB sticker, but if you need to have the car smogged, it only takes 5mins or less to put the stock box back on. The CAI does not affect any of the emissions equipment of the 3, so it can pass smog testing. Also, as long as you retain the breather hose and not use a breather filter, you're smog legal.
What 'special colors' are availible? I've seen pictures of the red and blue, is that it?
No confirmation yet, but powdercoated colors besides black is an extra $10.
Are the dynos I see floating around with the K&N or a ASPEC dry filter?
They are from the ASPEC filter and the original 3.0" TB coupler. It will have better low-end #s if I used the newer 3-2.75" couplers as shown in my last dynos. Pics below.
Is F2 better than AEM/Mazdaspeed?
When I originally got the intake (before the new TB couplers were released), AEM had a better throttle response and low-end torque while F2 picked up after 3K rpm and had a better top end. Once I switched to the 3-2.75" TB coupler, throttle response and low-end torque improved and on par with the AEM and top end was as good as it was before. I had to wind up the AEM to 5K to hear it over my exhaust while I could easily hear the F2 below 4k. One thing I couldn't stand is during low throttle cruising, I'd hear the ticking sound of a butterfly valve which would make me throttle in or downshift.
Is F2 better than Injen?
No known user who has switched yet.
Is F2 better than Simota?
Note: dmention7 had the original 3.0" TB coupler
[quote author=dmention7 link=topic=44791.msg745107#msg745107 date=1149040699]
The first thing I felt was ashamed for ever thinking that the Simota SRI sounded kinda good. This thing has such a nice growl, I couldn't stop grinning! And when I was heading up a freeway ramp, it was the first time I'd ever been able to chirp my tires in 2nd gear on a straight smooth road, without power shifting.
I can tell that some of the low-end torque and response of the SRI is missing (or it could just be that the ECU needs to do a bit of learnin'), but once you get your revs up, it just pulls harder and harder--whereas the Simota felt like it plateaued around 6500, the F2 feels like it wishes there was another 500rpm past the rev limiter. Plus, when your engine sounds this nice, it's a treat to really wind it out!
Is F2 better than F5?
Note: NKKNIGHT Had the 3-2.75" TB coupler.
[quote author=NYKNIGHT link=topic=50605.msg1190360#msg1190360 date=1170796724]
just as a quick reference, I have the F2 on my car now for a few days and had the f5 on for a few months. Besides the CEL probs with the F5, so far I feel that it pulled slightly harder throughout the band. Not by much, however I have not reset my ecu so that may be the reason. Still waiting for my ECU to adjust to the F2. One more difference is now I have a ms exhaust with the F2 whereas before it was F5 only. I had went through 3 different pipes with Fujita because they were all throwing CEL's so they where changing the bend and the length of pipe at the end. My car was there test dummy. I gave them results, bitched a bit, they changed until it was good. The F5 had a very aggressive sound and the whistle has a louder pitch, it whistled all the time. The F2's whistle is the best, sounds really good when the air is flowing through and at the right time. To be honest I can't tell which one had a deeper tone because of the exhaust however I feel it was the F5. Going back to power, the F2 is more powerful at the end of the band whereas the F5 was more linear through the band and at the end gave a lil extra oomph. That difference is what makes me like the F2 better. It explodes and makes my car rocket off. Either way you can't go wrong. F2 is cheaper, but F5 has good Customer service. The guy from F5 "Brian" was actually apart(parital owner) of Injen and bounced from them due to differences. He really stands behind his product and is very honorable. I have not dealt with anyone from SCI or F2 however I have not heard the greatest things, however thats for you to judge. I cannot say anything bad about them. So far no CEL with the F2 and boy what a big pipe it has. Kinda bogs low end but makes up for it big time later on. In the end I would lean towards the F2. I am very pleased with this product. Forgot to add one more thing, the F2 needs to have a better filter like the Fujita's.
Is F2 better than stock?
Note: Mayoke had the original 3.0" TB coupler.
[quote author=mayoke link=topic=44791.msg751064#msg751064 date=1149353955]
Butt dyno says: Of course I'm aware that the computer will need a day or two to adjust to the new amount of airflow. Lowend torque feels slightly lower however the engine appears to rev a little free'er. Throttle response is more noticeable now. Actually, I should say that it's much easier to notice the delay between the time you hit the peddle and the time the throttle responds. I hate fly-by-wire now more than ever. Above about 3.2k there is a noticeable increase in torque and most likely hp as well. The car definitely pulls harder and sounds meaner. I can't hear my exhaust at all now over 3k which is funny but expected.(That is if you're "into" it. At a cruise, it's just a mild mannered black hatchback.) Chirped 2nd everytime without really trying and chirped 3rd when I wanted to. I'd say the gains are good. Good vs. the competitor? Well, the dynos here have proven that. There's no way in HELL that I'm pulling this thing back off and putting a DIFFERENT one on.
ASPEC filter close-up
F2 vs AEM tubing width:
F2 Intake Filter A-SPEC
F2 Intake Filter A-SPEC macro shot
F2 vs AEM
Filter sat close to my Toyota horn... no problems with rain and the car was never garaged
Dynos were taken at 4500ft, AEM taken at 57° ; F2 at 68°
F2 was taken with 3.0" TB coupler. Low end should be better with the 3-2.75" TB coupler.
* ALSO CHECK ATTACHED IMAGE FOR A BETTER SCALED 4TH GEAR RUN!
F2 3.0” vs AEM 2.5” 3rd gear:
@3.5k: 1hp, 1tq
@4.5k: 0hp, 1tq
@5.5k: 0hp, 0tq
@6.0k: 1hp, 1tq
@6.5k: 1hp, 1tq
F2 3.0” vs AEM 2.5” 4th gear:
@2.0k: -1hp, -2tq
@3.0k: -1hp, -2tq
@3.5k: 0hp, 1tq
@4.0k: 2hp, 3tq
@4.5k: 1hp, 1tq
@5.5k: 2hp, 3tq
@6.0k: 5hp, 4tq
@6.3k: 3hp, 3tq
* ALSO CHECK ATTACHED IMAGE FOR A BETTER SCALED 4TH GEAR RUN!
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