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after vtcs car seems to go through the rpms more smooth a tiny bit more power in the butt dyno. only problem is I got a cel p2004 how did you guys get rid of it? I removed the rod that connected to the actuator .

You missed a critical step. You have to leave the vacuum actuator link connected to the beige lever.

Re-read this entire thread closely, especially my post #577..
 

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after vtcs car seems to go through the rpms more smooth a tiny bit more power in the butt dyno. only problem is I got a cel p2004 how did you guys get rid of it? I removed the rod that connected to the actuator .

I did reconnect every thing back

You are contradicting yourself. :)

Have someone start up the cold engine while you watch the vacuum actuator link. It should still be connected to the beige pivot arm and both should move shortly after the engine starts.

You shouldn't have disconnected the vacuum switches on the top of the intake manifold but check those out also. For both the electrical connectors and the vacuum lines.
 

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You are contradicting yourself. :)

Have someone start up the cold engine while you watch the vacuum actuator link. It should still be connected to the beige pivot arm and both should move shortly after the engine starts.

You shouldn't have disconnected the vacuum switches on the top of the intake manifold but check those out also. For both the electrical connectors and the vacuum lines.

i removed the rod.. not the beige actuator itself... the rods connects to the actuator but the accurate = the beige piece thats connect on to my intake manifold by the throttle body
 

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i removed the rod.. not the beige actuator itself... the rods connects to the actuator but the accurate = the beige piece thats connect on to my intake manifold by the throttle body

^^^I can't make any sense of your post....

Is the actuator moving when you start the engine cold?
 

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Last spring I celaned out my throttle body - first time in 7 years since owning the my HB. everything was covered in carbon abd the idle has been greatly improved since the clean.

I imagine the IM is also covered in carbon deposits if the thottle body was, - cleaning this up wuold also help engine performance as well as idle I imagine ? just curious what ppl have found - thanks
 

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It's been about 70 miles and my idle hangs at around 1500 rpm while coasting to a stop. Once at a full and complete stop, it settles to normal. If I don't completely stop, it doesn't. I can sometimes coax it lower if I keep it in gear down to a stop but not always.

That being said, the two nipples on one side broke off while I had the im out for a good cleaning, so I plugged the hoses and taped off the holes on the manifold piece. Could tthis be why? Do they need to be hooked up?
 

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I did this mod yesterday on my '06 2.0 (A). Definitely feels like there's a little bit more pull in 1-3rd, noticeably more torque steer on the rough roads in my area but flat top is still there.

Not stating that this mod guarantees that for everyone but there carbon/oil/crud buildup throughout each piece of those flutter flaps and all caked on the rod. I didn't see it said anywhere in the guide for "Put the rod back" as I can see no purpose for it if you did. After seeing the inside of my intake manifold I'm opting to buying an aftermarket intake manifold and just replacing it. It was baked in pretty well yet dragging a screwdriver over it can scrape it off, definitely not something I want to keep using.
 

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just did this tonight and took me about 1.5hr to complete. Runs nice and smooth. onlything to note, after doing this i here a little ticking coming from the manifold area, not sure i forgot to bolt something down but doesnt do any harm
 

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Just did the vtcs removal mod, and I must say it was well worth the effort. I have the 2.0 5 speed and changing gears is a breeze. The rpms don't rpms don't drop off between gears now. From 1000-3000 rpm the engine feels more eager and willing and the top end feels a little better as well. All around the engine just runs a lot better.
 

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Three days into my vtcs removal, I noticed that there is a surge at about 2500-2700 rpm during normal driving. It almost feels like vvt kicks in early. The car always feels ready to go if need be. This is my favorite mod so far.:chuckles:
 

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Last spring I celaned out my throttle body - first time in 7 years since owning the my HB. everything was covered in carbon abd the idle has been greatly improved since the clean.

I imagine the IM is also covered in carbon deposits if the thottle body was, - cleaning this up wuold also help engine performance as well as idle I imagine ? just curious what ppl have found - thanks
Anyone able to answer this ? I ask b/c I'm wondering the same thing
 

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I did my best to clean mine out, as well as my throttle body when I did my VTCS.

300,000 miles of crap. Easily 1/16-1/8 thick.


Personally, I tried brake cleaner, as that was all I had as far as automotive stuff goes. Sprayed it in, let it sit while I tinkered with other things and cleaned the throttle body. It worked, but didn't work as spectacularly as brake cleaner does with some other things. The sludge was pretty black coming out, so it did do something - and I swear, sludge from some places is 10 times more resilient and disgusting and thick than most. This is one of them. I hit it with the Dawn detergent soak after that, heavy soap to water ratio. That took some out too. I wish I had some Simple Green on hand for that job, seems to be the best choice for safe engine cleaning with all kinds of crap. My only disappointment now, after doing this engine swap and seeing the inside of the IM again, is it's "textured" now, with some areas not getting cleaned out as completely... somewhat reminiscent of a cracked, dried up riverbed. Splotchy.

But yes, highly recommended. I know VTCS removal did a great deal, but you gotta think, let's say it's an 1/8 inch thick. On a throttle body and IM inlet that is 2.5" or so, let's say that for the sake of calculation.... that's a 1/4" total reduction in size. So now you're down to 2.25". So if you were to clean it out, you'd effectively be increasing the size of your intake by 10%, which also increases.... that's right, air flow. I'd say that's worth it.




Ps. buckethead.... you DID notice that you were quoting your own post, right? So... when you said "you were wondering the same thing", you were actually more or less referring to yourself in the third person.... right? xD
 

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Wow. You're totally right. That's embarrassing. I'd still like to know if anyone took the same approach to cleaning their IM. I'll try not to go on the forum when I'm too tired next time!
 

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Nvm. I got the job done. The rod was a pain to pull out but then I put some wd40 on the butterfly flaps to loosen the rod and it came out. The only problem I had putting it back together was losing the middle bolt somewhere deep inside where I can't find it. Might've lost it on the road driving afterwards or it might be stuck til I take it apart again to clean it.
 
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