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All right, let's have one thread for ALL NEW similar threads. We have a lot of threads where users are asking the same questions aboput similar cars in similar market conditions, so let's keep it in one place.

How it works:

1. Please post your info.

2. Responding users=> please state at the begining of your message to whom you are replying as such:

USER XYZ: abcdef....

3. That's it! Simple, effective in collecting and analyzing the information in one place, while saving time to all of our users and Moderators alike.

Thank you for your cooperation!

NOTE: Threads on this topic already open, will be left open, but I ask new users to post in this thread.

Thanks again!
Dinu
 

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Thankfully, a sticky about this. Interestingly enough, people considering buying a car for the first time should consider picking up a book on negotiating. An easy read is "Getting to Yes". The forum is constantly filled with questions about "Did I get a good deal?"

The BEST way to see if you got a good deal is to

1) Look at how much OVER invoice you got the car for
2) Did the dealer tack on any out of the ordinary fees
3) Trade In on another car (that's a hard one)
4) APR (I put a bigger DP on the car for a better rate)
5) Did you buy a car you are happy with

Good luck guys.

Genearl Rule of Thumb I was told by a professor teaching a negotiating class:

Don't ever buy a vehicle from the first dealership you go to, at least not on the first visit.
 

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odie said:
1) Look at how much OVER invoice you got the car for
Or UNDER. Check www.edmunds.com to see what the invoice is. Also note the Destination charge, which is a legit fee, and brings us to:
odie said:
2) Did the dealer tack on any out of the ordinary fees
Destination charge is legit. Sometimes, I think, a Regional Advertising Fee is legit too -- but I'm not sure. For me, I asked for an explanation, but didn't argue since I was getting $100 below invoice for the price.
 

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Kip, for the majority of car buyers, getting the car below invoice is not as likely as above, which is why i said OVER invoice, but not UNDER msrp. :-D

And yes, I had to pay a "Advertising Fee" too.. which I thought was sketchy but indeed it was legit, as well as destination charge.
 

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Hi,

I just bought a 2005 Mazda 3 5-door with AT, Leather, Moonroof/6-CD, Xenon/TPMS, wheel locks for $19,995(+TTL). $60 over invoice! I was floored when I told the salesguy what I wanted to pay and he said "OK".

Not my first color choice (which was Velocity Red), but Winning Blue got some hotties in the dealer lot checking it out :wink:. I offered them a ride, but they didn't accept :(
 

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I got below MSRP, but not a whole lot. Whatever i got under, which was about a grand or so, was made less significant when they added the destination, 'advertisement fee,' and taxes. Nonetheless, I am really happy with my titanium grey 04' Mazda 3 w/ABS/SRS package, moonroof & sunroof package, and sport pacakge. Except a couple things:

The certain peeves about the car, the fact that i need to accept that it is no longer new (dings and scratches occur) and the fact that my steering feels a whole lot worse - as if there is more give and such. It only has 3,250 miles! Finally, my mazda dealer sucks (mostly with this issue).
 

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Decent deal on 3s??? Looking to buy it tomorrow if it is!

Okay here's the details:

05 3s, 5 speed, ABS,SAB,SAC package

17300 + fees

Edmunds TMV is 17690, Invoice is 16,817.

I'm thinking of offering 17,000.

Yes or no?

Thank you guys :D
 

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Anywhere between invoice & TMV is a good deal, IMO. So, definitely shoot for invoice... and if they bump a bit from there, and not go over TMV, you did good. That's my thoughts, anyway. :dunno: :D
 

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What about a 3i manual with ABS/SAB/SAC, 16 inch wheels/power package, and air conditioning for 400 over invoice? As I had no trade in and am paying in cash, there wasn't much to negotiate on. I'm guessing that's a decent deal, but I'm not quite sure.
 

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I think i posted a thread about this in a different topic, but again I recommend doing all your research before going to any dealership. Some common sites are www.kbb.com, edmunds.com, www.cars.com, etc...With Mazda3 there is a college grad rebate of 500 bucks. And sometimes a 1500 MAC rebate if you finace with Mazda3. The dealership has three main sources to make a profit.

1) The selling price of the car - not sure if "invoice" price is really the invoice, but from all the dealerships I went to I was either offered a little below invoice or a little above invoice. The dealship still gets incentives from the factory for keeping the cars rolling off of their lots with bonuses, factory priority, etc...so they can and will sell the car below or at invoice.

2) Car trade in - If you got a good deal on price then becareful for the next two. Car dealers usually don't offer a fair deal on your trade-in. They will give you a ridiculous quote the first time and slowly increase it to make it seem like you are winning. Example I reserached my trade in on kbb.com to be around 3000~3500. The first dealer offered 2000, after I stood up to leave...they magically increased it a little by little to 2,800. I was still expecting at least 3000 considering my car was in good condition.

3) This last step is the main way a dealership will make their money. In the finace office. Since most people don't have 18,000 to pay cash down they will finace a car over 4 or 5 years. I'm not sure how they calculate the interest but it's surprising how much difference 4% and 6% will make on your total payments. I think I was offered 6.98% at the first dealership and calculating my total payments over the 4 years I was paying more than 2500 over the MSRP. The second dealership gave me 4.69% and after establishing a good payment history I can refinace after a year and get a lower APR. This is where they will offer BS add-on and some may be real and others simply wrong. They will also try to sell you protection coverages and other maintenance packages etc...If you have insurance (which is required to have by law) you don't need their xtra protection coverages.

In summary please do all your research, go to at least 3 different dealerships. Usually dealerships in busy locations like right near a busy high traffic highway will give bad deals simply because they can sell to a lot of uneducated customers that are first time walk-ins. Usually dealerships in smaller cities or near country areas will give you better deals and will make it worth a drive out there simply because they don't get as much customer traffic, they will work harder to make their sale and maintain good reputation.
 

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05 3S
Ti grey
SAB.ABS
Sport
Auto(for girlfriend :( )
Mnrf.6dsk

10 dealers in 3 days = $400 under invoice no ad fees any other questions please ask.

$18,555 aprox

location-> MO

Great car she is loving it, and it is growing on me>!

PS good advise shin_ramyun


Dr. H
 

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Here's my deal:

Mazda3 s 5D Strato Blue
AT
ABS/SAB/SAC
Leather
Xenon/TPMS
$100 of extras I didn't really want, but don't mind

$20,755 MSRP, $19,438 invoice, $20,700 OTD
Silver Spring, MD

Paid invoice plus $99 "processing," which was probably not legit. It was a much better deal than anything else I was offered (just 4 dealers--I had some time constraints). I didn't really want leather or xenon pkg. at first, but now that I have them on the cheap I love them both. I paid a quarter more than I would have for the Corolla I looked at, and I'm twice as happy.

ZOOM!
 

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I would appeciate any feedback on the price I got for my spanking new 2005 Mazda 3 s, hatchback, automatic, ABS/SAB, cargot net.
After much much research and many internet quotes, I got it for $17,700, plus tax, with no additional dealer fee (except destination and $45 document fee).
What do you think?
Oh and I'm in Northern California if that helps.
Thanks!
PS: I love my new car! ;-)
 

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I just bought a 2005 Sunlight Silver Mazda 3s with manual transmission, leather, sport package, moonroof/6 CD, and ABS/SAC/SAB.

With S-Plan(debatable due to me having to show them the actual S-Plan pricing), it was $18,418(OTD $20,005).

I think this is a pretty fair deal, but just wanted to see some opinions.

Thanks.
 

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cadavrexquis said:
I would appeciate any feedback on the price I got for my spanking new 2005 Mazda 3 s, hatchback, automatic, ABS/SAB, cargot net.
After much much research and many internet quotes, I got it for $17,700, plus tax, with no additional dealer fee (except destination and $45 document fee).
What do you think?
Oh and I'm in Northern California if that helps.
Thanks!
PS: I love my new car! ;-)
I would think that is a pretty good deal since you got ATX. What color?
 

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18K Out the Door...no game no bs

Winning Blue
5 door S
Auto tranny
wheel lock


wrote them a 18,000 check on the spot.


good deal???

and this is not including the $500 grad rebate....so in reality its 17.5K


What u guys think?
 

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gabeon said:
I just bought a 2005 Sunlight Silver Mazda 3s with manual transmission, leather, sport package, moonroof/6 CD, and ABS/SAC/SAB.

With S-Plan(debatable due to me having to show them the actual S-Plan pricing), it was $18,418(OTD $20,005).

I think this is a pretty fair deal, but just wanted to see some opinions.

Thanks.
Seem like a pretty fair deal considering all the option u got. i personally don't feel the option are worth that much. But if u enjoy it then is a pretty good deal.
 

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Here is the deal that I have nogotiated. Please let me know if you believe this is a good deal as I intend on buying it on Sat. the 16th.

'05 Mazda3s, Velocity Red - $15,530
Moonroof and 6cd pack - $765
ABS/SAB/SAC pack - $688
Sport pack - $421
Destination - $560
TOTAL BEFORE FEES - $17,964
Less Gerber Rebate - $500
Less Grad Rebate - $500
TOTAL AFTER REBATES - $16,964
Additional assesment fee - $300
Tax, Title and License - $1,394 (I think they may be including a prep fee here)
GRAND TOTAL - $18,568 (that is out the door price)

Seems like a good deal from what I have seen, but what do you all think. I am a little skectchy about paying the "assesement fee" and the document prep fees, but some people say they are legit so...
Thanks,
-Ace
 
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