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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

Since most of us are now running the haltech F10x, I think it should be a great idea for everyone to post here their questions, how-to, etc.


Many of us haven't played much with the haltech yet (including me) but would like to do so. I know Juan said to stay away from that and I
have to say that you are the only one to blame if something goes bad to your motor.

Most of the information can be found on the haltech website ( www.haltech.com )

some definition before going more into depth:

Load is the a measurement of how hard an engine is working which is measured in percent. Coasting down hill is considered very low engine load. Pulling a weighted trailer uphill is considered high engine load. Engine load is usually measured by taking a reading off the inlet air flow The main factor that chooses which EFI system to use is AIR FLOW.

here is subjects many of us inquired about:

- cold starts

Once started, an engine requires more fuel when it is cold than when it is hot. This is a result
of low manifold and in-cylinder temperatures where fuel sticks to the walls and doesn't burn
properly. The ECU corrects for this by using the fuel coolant map to determine extra fuel
required based on the coolant temperature. The ECU will automatically reduce the amount of
coolant correction applied to the engine as the throttle is opened and air speed increases. The
fuel coolant map should not be adjusted until the base fuel maps are correctly tuned at
operating temperature.
The fuel coolant map should be tuned during the engine warm-up. Start the cold engine and
adjust the fuel coolant map by following the map pointer and adjusting the bars of the map
that the ECU is using to obtain a smooth idle. Do not touch the throttle while adjusting this
map. The coolant correction map should be at zero for normal engine operating temperatures.

- fuel tuning

Tuning with no load:
Using the throttle only, increase the engine speed to 1000 rpm. When the engine speed is
exactly 1000 rpm the ECU will use only the bars in the 1000rpm range for fuelling
calculations meaning no interpolation from adjacent ranges will affect the mixtures. Repeat
this process for engine speeds 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000 etc. The engine should now start and
fast idle evenly.

When fine-tuning the engine for the road, the same principles apply to all engines. Under full
load at all rpm the fuel mixture should be rich. Naturally aspirated engines use an air to fuel
ratio of around 12.5:1 to 13.5:1 is usually best (high performance turbo vehicles may go as
low as 10.5). When cruising (light to medium load) the mixture should be as close to
stoichiometric (14.7:1 AFR) as possible and decelerating conditions may allow the engine to
be run lean to save fuel. This will result in a particular shape for the map.

- closed loop mode



For those who have had experience with tuning the haltech, please tell us how you proceeded,
what AFR are you running, ect.
 

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I'm still trying to figure out a whole bunch of issues. But I use the Haltech to datalog all the time. I'm waiting on a few to start using to see if they have the same readings I do to start tracing some of the issues.

As far as tuning I found that using a UBS 9-key(calculator pad) and only keeping the HOME, UP, DOWN, LEFT, RIGHT keys make it easy and safe to do alittle street tuning.

I have been looking for a 14.7afr at idle for a long time but have yet to get the AFR to stick.
During a steady cruise I keep it 14.7afr or under for good MPG, any leaner than 15afr would bog.
I have yet to need any tuning at WOT, but after I fix a few issues I look to clean it up with the datalogs.

If you do any tuning make sure the car is at normal operating temps and a normal day, if possible, it is better to tune with no fuel corrections made from other maps.

Always save your map before you make changes to go back to if you need so.

Get to know the data logs, you can find out alot about them when problems accure.
 

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guess i need to find a new batterie for my laptop by that time.

AZ do u ride with ur laptop?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey herb,

I was wondering. When you tune the fuel map, you have a 2d and a 3d map.
It is said on the haltech that most users prefer to use the 3d map to tune.

Could you explain how do you tune your fuel with no load, partial load and with full load?
What afrs are you reading/aiming.

I think I am a little lost with:
- zero throttle map
- full throttle map
- Tuning for idle / no load / full load
 

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[quote author=eurotuner link=topic=70084.msg1223553#msg1223553 date=1172150990]
guess i need to find a new batterie for my laptop by that time.

AZ do u ride with ur laptop?
[/quote]

Yes, I usually take it with me on any long trips. It has helped me get home a few times with a few problems I was having.

[quote author=jeanseb link=topic=70084.msg1223814#msg1223814 date=1172159507]
Hey herb,

I was wondering. When you tune the fuel map, you have a 2d and a 3d map.
It is said on the haltech that most users prefer to use the 3d map to tune.

Could you explain how do you tune your fuel with no load, partial load and with full load?
What afrs are you reading/aiming.

I think I am a little lost with:
- zero throttle map
- full throttle map
- Tuning for idle / no load / full load

[/quote]

I use the 2D map.

I have not tuned everything, there are things like no load I have not touched except idle.
I have not touched WOT yet either, but from looking at both they would only need cleaning up and thats it. I see a quick 11 - 10.7AFR in a WOT but again that is nothing to worry about.

Idle I usually let the car idle until it is complete warm up and just try to get it to the leanest afr you can and keep the car smooth and steady. My car has idled from 10afr up too 17afr, I have yet to lock it down to a good steady afr. I have some issue that the AFR will change for no aparent reason according to the datalogs.

I found the best and easiest way to tune is to drive normally and when you find that spot that is lean or rich, hold the throttle there and hit the HOME key. That will put you on the exact spot that needs tuning, depending on how lean or rich it is I adjust it with the UP or Down key. I usually just hit the Up or Down key once and find that spot agin to see how much it changed.

The zero throttle map and full throttle map I don't think are being used. I was suggested by Haltech to use the zero throttle to get a better idle, but have yet to get into it.

So the part throttle I have not needed to touch yet as well as the WOT. I just mainly tuned it to get good mpg and not have me smelling like gas every time I drive it. :lol:

Herb
 

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Are any of you using the O2 sensor closed loop AF correction mode? Im waiting for Juan to send me the instructions but I dont know if it uses the factory O2 or if it needs a wideband to adjust.
 

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good info herb. really good.

i can't wait to start tuning mine. june can't come soon enough.

i do have a question that hopefully someone here has experience with. how do dramatic differences in weather effect a particular tune? for instance, high 70s one day, and low 30s the very next day.
 

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[quote author=edrection link=topic=70084.msg1224447#msg1224447 date=1172171132]
Are any of you using the O2 sensor closed loop AF correction mode? Im waiting for Juan to send me the instructions but I dont know if it uses the factory O2 or if it needs a wideband to adjust.
[/quote]

I have been playing with it for a while and have yet to get it to work like it is suppose too. I have got it to add and pull fuel, but not keep it around the target AFR. I think I might have to adjust the rate of the AFR transfered to the Haltech from the W/B or play with the numbers on the closed loop control setup page.

But when it does work it will make tuning even easier in my eyes as you will be able to log AFR/Volts as well as the o2 Correction being made by the cloded loop control.

[quote author=the415 link=topic=70084.msg1224459#msg1224459 date=1172171309]
good info herb. really good.

i can't wait to start tuning mine. june can't come soon enough.

i do have a question that hopefully someone here has experience with. how do dramatic differences in weather effect a particular tune? for instance, high 70s one day, and low 30s the very next day.
[/quote]

I have been in both temps and everything has been fine. There are temp maps that will help you tune for that, which also helps with the cold start issues. That is one thing almost everyone will need to tune.


Herb
 

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[quote author=edrection link=topic=70084.msg1224570#msg1224570 date=1172173818]
Is Juan's base tune pretty close to where it needs to be? like can I safely drive it or will I have to tune it right away?
[/quote]

You should be good to go with it like that. You might be rich in alot of cruising spots and idle but other then that is should be perfectly safe. You should not have any dangerous spots unless you boost past a tune load on the map.

Most of the tuning is just fine tuning for better idle and mpg. With the exception of the cold start issues, as stated almost everyone will need to tune that. That is one spot that is almost impossible for Juan to tune for everyone.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
All right lets set this up straight...

[quote author=AzMz3 link=topic=70084.msg1224389#msg1224389 date=1172170228]

I use the 2D map.

Idle I usually let the car idle until it is complete warm up and just try to get it to the leanest afr you can and keep the car smooth and steady. My car has idled from 10afr up too 17afr, I have yet to lock it down to a good steady afr. I have some issue that the AFR will change for no aparent reason according to the datalogs.

I found the best and easiest way to tune is to drive normally and when you find that spot that is lean or rich, hold the throttle there and hit the HOME key. That will put you on the exact spot that needs tuning, depending on how lean or rich it is I adjust it with the UP or Down key. I usually just hit the Up or Down key once and find that spot agin to see how much it changed.

Herb
[/quote]

all right, the idle map is obviously for tuning the idle (duh!)

But when you are crusing and you see the car running too lean/rich, which map do you need to go, fuel map?

I still really dont understand those no load / full load map

when the internals are in, I'd like to tune the car myself
 

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[quote author=jeanseb link=topic=70084.msg1227236#msg1227236 date=1172252945]
All right lets set this up straight...

[quote author=AzMz3 link=topic=70084.msg1224389#msg1224389 date=1172170228]

I use the 2D map.

Idle I usually let the car idle until it is complete warm up and just try to get it to the leanest afr you can and keep the car smooth and steady. My car has idled from 10afr up too 17afr, I have yet to lock it down to a good steady afr. I have some issue that the AFR will change for no aparent reason according to the datalogs.

I found the best and easiest way to tune is to drive normally and when you find that spot that is lean or rich, hold the throttle there and hit the HOME key. That will put you on the exact spot that needs tuning, depending on how lean or rich it is I adjust it with the UP or Down key. I usually just hit the Up or Down key once and find that spot agin to see how much it changed.

Herb
[/quote]

all right, the idle map is obviously for tuning the idle (duh!)

But when you are crusing and you see the car running too lean/rich, which map do you need to go, fuel map?

I still really dont understand those no load / full load map

when the internals are in, I'd like to tune the car myself
[/quote]

The Fuel map will let you tune no load, idle, cruise and WOT.
Most of the maps in the Haltech you will not even need or use.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
ok guys!

I just got my NGK windeband installed and I want to do some tuning with it.

- What AFR range I need to have for my idle. I'd also like to know if you tune it with the idle map, or just the fuel map...

- When crusing with no load, smoothly, what AFR should I aim for? Again, I guess I need to do it with the fuel map?

- Do I need to touch WOT and full load map?

thanks!
 

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[quote author=jeanseb link=topic=70084.msg1371710#msg1371710 date=1177788964]
ok guys!

I just got my NGK windeband installed and I want to do some tuning with it.

- What AFR range I need to have for my idle. I'd also like to know if you tune it with the idle map, or just the fuel map...

- When crusing with no load, smoothly, what AFR should I aim for? Again, I guess I need to do it with the fuel map?

- Do I need to touch WOT and full load map?

thanks!

[/quote]

I found trying to get a good lean steady AFR at idle was next to impossible. 14.7 is good but it can go alot leaner. I have seen 15.5 with a perfect idle, the car was so quite and running smooth I had to check the gauges to make sure the car was running.
You only need the fuel map. The idle map can be used if you run into idle issues. I was going to try to mess with that next as that was recommended by some Haltech tuners.

With cruising I ended up with staying slightly under 14.7, again you can tune alittle leaner but too lean and you will feel the power drop and the car surge.

I wouldn't touch the fuel map for WOT unless you are on the dyno and are running too rich or too lean. Make sure you are where Juan wants it too be. Any compentant(sp) dyno operator/tuner should beable to tune the Haltech.

There are many maps we don't use on the Haltech. The only ones you need to tune are the temp ones for cold start and the fuel map....and the wastegate if you use the Haltech boost controller.

You will also most likely need to re-tune some of the cold start settings after changing the idle.

Little changes at a time work best until you get used to the Haltech. And make sure you save maps.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
thanks herb

One thing I dont understand though is how you can tune the same map (fuel map here) when crusing and
tuning that same map when for WOT ? Dont we need two different maps for that?

when ur cruising, I assume you can't be in acceleration, u must be at a fixed speed?
then if you see its lean/rich, you press the home key on the fuel map and add/lower fuel
at that place, right?

thanks again, I'm new to tuning a car and I'd really like to be able to do my own tune!
 

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[quote author=jeanseb link=topic=70084.msg1371901#msg1371901 date=1177798670]
thanks herb

One thing I dont understand though is how you can tune the same map (fuel map here) when crusing and
tuning that same map when for WOT ? Dont we need two different maps for that?

when ur cruising, I assume you can't be in acceleration, u must be at a fixed speed?
then if you see its lean/rich, you press the home key on the fuel map and add/lower fuel
at that place, right?

thanks again, I'm new to tuning a car and I'd really like to be able to do my own tune!
[/quote]

Look at the Haltech offline alot and get use too it.
you are tuning by LOAD/MAP and RPM so as the load increases the curser moves to a different spot, as RPM's increase the curser moves to a different map...in 2D mode.

I wouldn't tune anything in acceleration unless it is too rich or too lean. I had a few spots that needed leaning up and it was a different car afterward.

Yes if you see a spot that is too rich or too lean press the home key and it will place you there or as close as it can be. Starting out I used the arrow keys and only pressed them once and then rechecked that same spot to see home mouch more I needed.

It would also help to connect the AFR gauge too the Haltech to log or just have the afr by volts on the display page.....or to use closed loop control if it was ever figured out.

Play with it. I would take the laptop out on a good safe open road, better yet have someone drive while you look to see what the Haltch does when the car is running through the gears.
 
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