[kcjab]

Ok, I think I read every thread that even mentions the cigarette lighter. Everyone mentions tapping into the power, but I can't find specifically how to do it. I have my Aux-mod Installed to run my Starmate. I want to tap into the lighter for power. I am going to cut the plug of a 3 port power outlet and put it in the glove compartment to give me three more outlets and get the cig lighter back (I eventually want to add a nav system). Anyway....

When I cut the wires to the back of the cig lighter, I now have 6 wires to get together (2 from the battery, 2 from the back of the lighter and 2 from the new port). What connects to what? I have those tap in wire connectors, where you just stick the wires in and close the clamp. Can someone give me a wiring diagram or detailed explanation? Thanks in advance!

 

[dmention7]

2 from the battery? If you're using the cig lighter for your power, all you need to do is tap the black wire from your new port into the black from the cig lighter, and then do the same with the other wire from your port and cig lighter. 2 wires into 2 wires.

 

[kcjab]

yes, when I cut the cigarette lighter wires, I now how 6.
"2 wires from the battery" - by that I mean the the original wire from the cigarette lighter. When I cut it I now have 4 wire ends, plus the 2 new ones??? Am I missing something??

 

[dmention7]

Ummm yeah, kinda. :lol: The whole point of the wire taps is that you don't need to cut the wires you want to draw power from. Reconnect the cig lighter batteries exactly the way they were before, and then just use the wire taps to attach your port's wires to the cig lighter's wires.

Either that or just connect all three black wires together, and then connect all three of the remaining wires together.

 

[kcjab]

Sorry I'm such a rookie! I didn't cut anything yet (thankfully)...

I didn't realize I didn't have to cut the wire, sorry. So, I just take the red wire from the lighter and the red wire from the port, put the splicer around them and crimp it down? That's it? Do the same with the black set?


Thanks so much, I know it's elementary!

 

[dmention7]

No prob, and that's all there is to it!

But just so I make sure... the connectors you have, they look something like this, right?

or

That's what I'm talking about when I say a "wire tap". If you don't have something like that, then I'd go to radio shack and pick some up. That's the simplest way to tap into small power wires like that.

 

[kcjab]

Yes, I have the ones in he first pic.
The wire that has the open end from where I cut the plug off, how far into the tap does it have to go? It has to at least touch the metal in the middle, right? Or do I run it a little past the metal tab but not sticking out the other end?

Thanks again

 

[dmention7]

The end should be at least past the metal tab. But you don't want it sticking out the other side.

 

[kcjab]

Thank you so much!!! You have been a huge help!
I have never done anything like this before, so I had no idea how to use the wire taps.
Thanks again

 

[icspots]

Inside the wire tap there should be two channels that cross where the metal piece will go through them. One channel goes all the way across, this is for the wire you are tapping power from. The other channel should go partway across, and then stop (at least all the ones I've ever used have). Put the new wire into the channel until it hits the end where it's blocked (don't strip the insulation off the end of the wire going into the tap), close the tap so that it looks like that picture and hold it closed so the wires don't move, then with a pair of pliers squeeze the metal 'guillotine' down onto the wires. Once that's done close the clip and make sure the wires are snug. If you want some extra insurance then wrap some electrical tape around it to make sure it doesn't pull loose.

So in this picture the blue wire is the stock cigarette lighter wire, and the red wire is the wire from the multi plug adapter. Put one tap on the hot wire, and one tap on the ground (I believe they're black and orange respectively) and then you're set. No wire cutting, no stripping.

Also bear in mind that if you're powering something while it's plugged into an AuxMod basic then you're probably going to want to get a ground loop isolator. Go to www.crutchfield.com and search for ground loop isolator, and click on the 3.5-3.5mm one, ~$17.

 

[kcjab]

ooohhhh, I didn't see the "stop" inside the tap on the one side. That is a really cool idea, whoever came up with those taps. I will do both orange and black and wrap with electrical tape.
I already installed the Auxmod, I just need to do the power wire. I wasn't sure how to do the wiring so I saved it for later. I have a ground loop isolator installed coming out of the auxmod. The order is (from auxmod backwards) auxmod, Ground Loop Isolator, cord to Starmate. It sounds great so far, with no whine. Adding this 3 port power won't change that will it?

Thanks for your detailed answer, I appreciate it!

 

[dmention7]

The ground loop isolator is primarily to get rid of feedback that would occur when your device is both plugged into the head unit and being powered off the car's electrical system. If you're using the Starmate being powered off your cigarette lighter right now with no problems, adding in the additional power adapter shouldn't change a thing.

 

[icspots]

^^^ What he said, with the GLI it shouldn't have any additional problems.

 

[brugg90]

the cig lighter splice is a pretty easy job in terms of how much skill is involved. Basically for me, the hardest part was getting up enough courage to cut my mazda wires. lol

 

[icspots]

[quote author=brugg90 link=topic=68311.msg1183680#msg1183680 date=1170455896]
the cig lighter splice is a pretty easy job in terms of how much skill is involved. Basically for me, the hardest part was getting up enough courage to cut my mazda wires. lol
[/quote]

Cutting the wires is complteley uneccessary. The entire point of wire taps is not cutting the wires.

 

[nightridermz3]

sorry to bring this one up again, but then I could use this to tap in any device to the wires from behind the cig lighter correct?

 

[icspots]

[quote author=NightRiderMZ3 link=topic=68311.msg1429201#msg1429201 date=1179844739]
sorry to bring this one up again, but then I could use this to tap in any device to the wires from behind the cig lighter correct?
[/quote]

Correct. However bear in mind that many 12v DC plugs step down the voltage for the device they're powering. To address this I have just gotten a female 12v DC plug and spliced that in. Then just plug the power adapter into the new plug.

 

[destrux]

Usually there's a sticker on whatever you're wiring in that says the input voltage, so you can be sure if it's 12v or not.

BTW, cutting and soldering will give a much cleaner power signal than T-taps. T-taps are prone to corrosion and loosening up the connection from vibration. Bad connections tend to heat up and melt things or start fires. I had a few of them on my eclipse, and they worked fine for months till I installed Prothane engine mounts, then problems popped up a few weeks later (melted t-taps and a seriously freaked out alarm system). I soldered everything and it was fine. They were in there 6 months and were turning green with corrosion already, and they were under the center console inside the car. The inside of the car sees alot of moisture in the winter from the constant slush and snow being tracked in. Besides, if the dealer did see the tap, I'm sure they would rather see a nice clean solder and shrink job than a T-tap. I actually wired a mini fuse block to my cig lighter wires, 5 spots to tap power off of, and I can put a fuse in for everything separately, and a main fuse to make sure I dont overdraw on the cig lighter wires. They have them at advance and napa for about $20. Makes it alot easier to install new stuff too.

 

[wanta3]

Fuse that bad-boy!

 

[nightridermz3]

[quote author=wanta3 link=topic=68311.msg1433889#msg1433889 date=1180007624]
Fuse that bad-boy!
[/quote]

trust me.. i have in-line fuses i bought already for this project. unfortunately, the monitor i have is 7.5 amp, and none of the ones in the fuse kit i bought are 7.5. 10 shouldn't be a problem correct, wouldn't start a fire?