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Discussion Starter #1
Just curious...this comming friday it's time for me to take care of my 30000 mile check up which I'll be doing...I'm poor and don't have 500 bucks to give to the dealership.
List
1. Oil change
2. Coolant change.
3. Trans flush
3. New hawks pads on both axles.
4. and new brake fluid.
5. Check plugs...see how they look maybe clean or replace
(lets help the sun stays up long enough,.....I tend to be slow.)
Did I miss anything.....

I have just a few questions reguarding brakes....First off..is there any type off Brake fluid I should use..some standard DOT 3? I'm going to check the mazda manual tom see what it says....but I don't think it specified.
Any perferred Brake fluid from anyone?

Second ..this might be a ....um "Slow person question" But our cars....do they use the same fluid for brake and clutch fluid? This is the first time I'll be working on these brakes so I'm not sure. But I think I remmber someone saying someting about it.
Thanks fella's
And after I'm done on friday........Stay off the side walks..... :D
 

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Yes same fluid for clutch and brakes. Any DOT3 fluid will get the job done. I usually use fairly cheap fluid as I tend to flush it every 1-2 years and since I don't race it I don't need any really high boiling point fluids.

Your dealer seriously charges you $500 for a 30k mile service? That is a total rip off. The manual trans fluid is supposed to be good for the life of the trans, but I tend to go with other vehicles recommended every 30k change on the fluid. If your brake pads aren't to worn, why replace them (unless you want to)...brake pades aren't a milage change issue, they are a to worn change piece.

I would also do the usual tire pressure check, rotate them if it has been awhile or if they are wearing unevenly between axles. I would look over the serpentine belts to see if they are cracking or worn looking. You can also take a tug on the tensioners with a wrench to see how much play there is left in the tensioner (give you a good idea of whether or not the belts are getting lose).

Basically you have it covered on what to do.
-Matt

PS The coolant is more of an age rather then milage issue. Not sure what fluid came in our cars from the factory, but it should be good for 45-60k miles I would think. Doesn't hurt to change it at 30k though, coolant is pretty cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah I'm not sure if I need to change the pads....But I have My hawks just sitting under my bed...
I looked at the front pads look like there in ok shape, I haven't checked the rear pads.
But I figure maybe I should just change out all 4 since I have the time...
I do get a grinding noise in the mornings when I break the first few times, But I think it's just rust rubbing of of my rotors..not the pads
Speaking of which....would rust messup the rotors or the pads?
 

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Nah, the rust on the rubbing part of the rotors rub off as soon as you use the brakes.

You should also add a new AIR FILTER to your list.
Spray WD-40 or silicone lube on any squeaky hinges.
Rotate Tires maybe, check tire pressure and set to 32-38 psi. (whatever you like it at)
Also consider a new Cabin Air filter if u are anal about that sort of thing.

Your plugs should be fine at 30k... heh
 

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I replaced my brake fluid with Motul RBF600 a few months ago. It's good stuff and will take track abuse. Haven't had any issues with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Cabin air filter?
I didn't know that...hm..I might check into that too...Not to worried about it..But if time allows..Wheres the filter at?
I think I remmeber a TSB that might of showed it...I'll check that
I'll look into Motul RBF600 too
Thanks
 

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[quote author=Spaz218 link=topic=66565.msg1142927#msg1142927 date=1168461574]
Hate to keep this post going...but any reveiws on the royal purple Fluid?
[/quote]

SEARCH <--- your friend
 

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On my '04 when I changed the brakes and everything else I went to ATE Superblue. It is fairly cheap for a little higher boiling points, and easy to tell when you get the old fluid out of the line/system as it is blue. Just remember that when you bleed the brakes to go right rear / left rear / right front / clutch / left front. The bleeder for the clutch is towards the front of the car on the tranny which puts it closer than the right front but farther than the left front.
 

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[quote author=Spaz218 link=topic=66565.msg1142927#msg1142927 date=1168461574]
Hate to keep this post going...but any reveiws on the royal purple Fluid?
[/quote]
RP is good stuff, but they don't make brake fluid.
 

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[quote author=Zarzthor link=topic=66565.msg1143308#msg1143308 date=1168475104]
On my '04 when I changed the brakes and everything else I went to ATE Superblue. It is fairly cheap for a little higher boiling points, and easy to tell when you get the old fluid out of the line/system as it is blue. Just remember that when you bleed the brakes to go right rear / left rear / right front / clutch / left front. The bleeder for the clutch is towards the front of the car on the tranny which puts it closer than the right front but farther than the left front.
[/quote]

+1

& I've found bleeding it multiple times ensures all air bubbles are out is good insurance, I've been surprised several times on stray bubbles in the system. I alternate the fluid colors when doing brakes to make sure I flush all the old out.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well..as for the brakes I think I'm going to take it in to the shop first thing in the morning.
I'd feel safer knowing a shop did it since I have never worked on brakes before. But after that I'll have the rest of the day to take care of everything eles.
the shop I'm going to take it to said they will do it for 90 bucks and I also called the Mazda dealer they said they could it for...(this is labor cost) 175 dollars an axle... :x
And off course it's not covered under warranty..(to be expected there hawks ...not factory mazda pads)
So I think I'm going with Merchants...90 bucks.
But....I'm worried they won't know...well what the [email protected] there doing.
I don't want to end up with a pedal to the floor brake system.
But when shops do brake work...I know they bleed the lines...but do they empty the fluid completely? or just bleed alittle and then top it off.
Kinda a noob question...but it's not a easy oil change and I'm noob to brakes....
 

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Precisely why I do it myself. A disc brake job is a fairly easy maintenance task, and very few shops will do the quality of work you can do yourself. They're usually trying to get it out as fast as possible.

Most brake shops will top off the fluid ... or charge you extra for a flush. Many dishonest shops upsell by replacing parts that aren't necessary (or say they did), this has been exposed many times by TV reporters with hidden cameras, even at nationwide chains.

Theres lots of good writeups on the net on how to do it. Basic tools include a socket set with hex sockets (not sure if the 3 uses a hex bolt on the calipers - haven't changed mine yet as its new), a big C clamp to compress the cylinder, open end wrench & a little tubing for bleeding, & jack stands. Extras, but not necessary, is a micrometer (if you need to have the rotors turned), and a simple vacuum kit to bleed the brakes without a helper.

Understand & appreciate your hesitation, you may want to ask a friend who's experienced to look over your shoulder. Its not rocket science, doesn't take that long, will save you a lot of money, a get the satisfaction that you did it and its been done right. If you'd like, i'll do write up the way i do brakes (greasing the bearings at the same time).
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Write ups are always good.
I'm not so worried about Taking the old pads out and installing the new pads. THats the easy part
I'm more concered about the bleeding process. I would like to just flush the fluid and put new in.
But I know the clutch shares the fluid with the brakes... I'm alittle worried about draining the fluid. (does it have a drain plug?) Just don't want to get air in the brake system or mess-up the clutch.
 

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Complete brake job, brake & clutch fluid flush, tire rotation, & bearing re-grease:
Tools needed: jack, jack stands, lug wrench, 8 or 9 mm wrench, socket set with large hex sockets.
Materials: axle grease, brake cleaner spray, new pads, 1/4" hose, old coffee can, rags, six pack of your favorite beverage.

1. Jack up car, remove all wheels, & put on jack stands.
2. Sequence (as stated b4), is rr/lr/rf/clutch/lf. Basically, do the farthest from the master cylinder first to minimize air getting in system.
3. Remove caliper with 2 bolts from rear of caliper (most likely these are hexes).
4. Remove old calipers.
5. Use a bent up coat hanger to hang the caliper off to the side, don't want to rest it on the hose as its quite heavy & could damage it.
5. Inspect your rotors & hydraulic lines. Get rotors turned if grooved, or replace if outside of minimum tolerances. The minimum tolerance is usually stamped on the rotor.
6. Remove the bearing cotter pin & washer, pop out the outer bearing by wiggling the rotor side to side.
7. Remove inner bearing.
8. Clean bearings, inspect, & regrease & reinstall bearings & rotor. Hose off the rotor with some brake cleaner, make sure you don't have any grease on it.
9. Now you need to compress the caliper cylinder in to get the new pads on. I use a large C clamp, but theres speciality tools available. Put the clamp on, using the old brake pad on the inside as a surface. Do not tighten yet. Stick a 1 foot tube from the bleeder valve to an old coffee can. Crack the bleeder (usually an 8mm or 9mm), & start turning the C clamp & compressing. Fluid will come out the tube. Continue tightening C clamp until cylinder is back all the way, then retighten the bleeder valve.
10. Put on new pads, & reinstall caliper.
11. Fill up master cyclinder with new, different color brake fluid. Always ensure theres fluid in there, you don't want to run it dry.
12. With friend slowly stepping on brake, open bleeder valve. Have friend yell when it hits floor, then tighten up valve. Repeat until you see new fluid (differrent color) coming out. (Bleeding is a lot faster & doesn't require 'friend' if you have a $20 bleeder suction kit from Harbor Freight or Sears).
13. Repeat steps 3-12 for left rear, then right front.
14. Find clutch bleeder valve (on tranny), attach hose just like bleeding brakes, do the same as brake bleeding, this time have friend step on clutch.
15. Do left front brake using steps 3-12.
16. Go back & bleed all lines 1 more time just to be safe. If you see any air bubbles popping out, repeat this step.
17. Put on rotated wheels, take off the stands, & crack a cold one or 2.

Sounds a lot harder than it is, & it doesn't really take that long. As i mentioned, my 3's new so I haven't had to do its brakes yet, so there may be a couple minor differences than above (like maybe normal bolts instead of hex on the caliper). If your doing only one axle for brakes, you will still need to bleed all 4 corners if you want to completely flush the fluid. Repacking the bearings isn't always necessary, but i do it since it only takes a few minutes anyway. This would also be a great time to paint the calipers if you want. One thing I always like to do with the wheels off is clean the inside of the rims, rotate them, & clean the inside of the wheel wheel & putting on some tire dressing.
 

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My pleasure. I've gotten a lot outta this forum, this can help repay :D

Few minor things i forgot after re-reading ... be real careful with the brake cleaner spray. It will remove paint. Also, new pads usually come with a tube of anti-squeak grease, put this on the caliper piston edges (where it contacts the pad) b4 you put the new pads on. Not necessary, but it doesn't hurt. & if you do decide to do this yourself, let me know how it turns out!
 

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Mr Tea & I went & changed out the DOT 3 clutch & brake fluid on my car , with the ATE super blue racing. After putting it in,
1. I noticed better acceleration out of 1st gear
2. Better stopping power
3. No clutch odor after spirted driving
 

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Bump for a good post by tbaltz


Also if anyone can confirm the clutch bleeder valve location for me that would be great. I went out and looked, but its dark and I was working with cell phone light, there is a little nipple with a black cover on it, facing the front bumper on the transmission itself, is that what Im going to be bleeding?

Thanks.
 

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[quote author=WetsuitxNinja link=topic=66565.msg1746875#msg1746875 date=1191042875]
Bump for a good post by tbaltz


Also if anyone can confirm the clutch bleeder valve location for me that would be great. I went out and looked, but its dark and I was working with cell phone light, there is a little nipple with a black cover on it, facing the front bumper on the transmission itself, is that what Im going to be bleeding?

Thanks.
[/quote]

I think that should be it- it gets a lot easier to find if you take off the engine undercover too. And as far as i know, that's the only thing near the underside of the engine with the little cone shaped valve with the black rubber cover over it- it should look almost exactly like the brake bleeder valves if i remember correctly.
 
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