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Discussion Starter #1
:xI got my Kicker subs and Kicker amp installed by Circuit City a week ago.. And I have a problem with the bass from the sub going out for like 20 to 30 seconds.. The music will play and the bass will hit, but all of a sudden the bass will go out and you won't hear it for a bit, and then it will kick back in randomly. They tried to tell me that its a protection in the amp, where it will cut off before it cuts out completely.. But I don't see why that it is considering i don't even have a chance to push my amp, by playing the music loud.. But I took my car back once and they turned down my settings or something like that, and said it shouldn't do it.. But it still does it even though my music isn't playing loud.. Does anyone have an idea on what could be causing my bass from my sub to not be consistent?? :x
 

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Seems like its getting hot and cutting out quickly

Is it a new amp?

Is the volumn cranked all the way?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Its a brand new amp that i bought from circuit city.. and no the volume isn't cranked all the way up.. it happens when my volume is low like on like 8.. and the bass knob isn't even high its not even to half, its at like the second notch..
 

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thats odd

does it have room to breathe? maybe getting hot

even though in my 04 mazda3 i had my JL 500.1 amp in the middle tray in the trunk with really no breathing room, it would cut out after about 2 hours of kinda loud music, and it made a 3 hour trip on low volume

It has to be the install, amp, or no room to breath i would think

What gauge power wire did they use?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm not for sure if it has room to breathe or not, but it will act up, even when i haven't been in the car for long.. The amp is placed on the back of the seat behind the subs.. So, I guess that might not be enough room for it to breathe.. I'm not for sure about the gauge power wire that they used.. So you think its the install??
 

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happening to my friend friend installed my amp and to poineers in his car did the same thing took my amp back hooked up my type-r to it and works fine if it is one with protect built in then its seeing something from the speakers that it dont like and its turning itself off how long is your ground wire? and if it still does it take it back and say fix it now and sit there and make sure it works before you leave 8)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
A friend of mine told me that you it might be something wrong with the ground wire.. So you think the amp is sensing something in the speakers that its not liking?? Yeah i think im going to take my car back to circuit city tomorrow and just wait until its finished, because i'm really gettin pissed that i spent that money on my system and i can't even use it to half of its capabilities.. its really pissing me off.. :mad:
 

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I'd say it's for sure the install. Not that you can't get a good install done at a big box shop but they are very hit or miss. I would say in all likelihood your speakers are running too low of an impedance. Maybe the speakers are wired to two ohm but the amp is bridged and needs to see a 4 ohm load. Maybe the ground wire is loose and its just cutting in and out because the amp is gaining / losing power. Check those thins.
 

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Gaurantee it's the ground wires like you say. There are these washers you can get that have "teeth" on them. Sand some of the paint away from the bolt you may be tieing it to and use this washer. It will dig right in there and make a good connection. Had this problem with my Jensen. Thought it was the amp so went out and bought another one - the Jensen was like 7 years old so it was time for a new one anyways and found out the problem when I removed it.
 

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What model amp? What model subs? What size power wire? fuse at battery? how long ground wire? where is it grounded? do you have a DMM? Do you know how to use a DMM? I won't even get into the gain level, although I bet it's set too high (typical big box install).

You see where I'm going... Simply not enough info to even begin to waste energy on.

My opinion is you got one of the bonehead installers, and he's effed something up in the install. This is very common with big box stores. The good news is if they can't fix it, demand they take their equipment back and give you a full refund for all parts and labor. Then take your car to a real installer, or learn how to do it yourself.
 

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i say it's the amp being new and such, i dunno. but i have L7 with 750.1 amp and when i would push it, it would turn the sub off for a brief moment. and when it quieted down it would go back on. now that the amp is like 5 months old i don't get that problem anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I went back today and I talked to an installer that works there. He told me that the reason why my sub would go out momentarily is because the sub is trying to produce such a low sound, but the sub is not capable of that, and so thats why it doesn't do it.. They also told me that it might be a defective sub.. But I'm tired of all the bullshit, because I paid a nice penny on the 750 amp and the subs.. So i'm going to take them back and get my money back and go look at something else, because I don't like the fact that I paid the money I paid, but my "speakers" would produce the sound.. So i'm going to take them back, and get my money back.. I even asked the guy if the ground wire could be the problem and he told me that it wasn't it without even checking it.. He said that if it was the ground wire, then I wouldn't hear anything at all.. But I appreciate all the help from you guys, but I'm going to take this shit back and I'll eventually put a system together myself, once I get all the info I need from the forum.. :thebeansoldier:
 

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Smart idea.
Hope you can get fully refunded.
Take your time when you do your research.
Look at reviews and such.
Don't pay someone to install it - that will hit your pocket more.
You can probably find a decent sub and amp for about $200 a piece - maybe even less.
Just get an amp that pushes what your sub can handle, then you will be satisfied.

As for the ground wire... any motion/vibration could jiggle a semi-solid connection free.
Take your time on a self install - it's not hard, give it a few days so you know it's done right. A big benefit is when you install it yourself is you know what wrong if it doesn't work (most of the time) like if you half assed tightening something.

GL!!
 

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Had a similar issue myself. It wasn't the ground for me, I replaced that and sanded down to the metal and painted over it. It still worked off and on. So I took out my head unit and soldered my wires going to my LOC instead of using wire taps. This fixed it and made it sound way better than it did originally. Just something else you might check.
 

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I am thinking of going the solder route rather than the wire tap.
Too much to deal with (crimps not solid) and they are mechanically connected - not electrically.
 
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