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Yeah keep an eye on the fluid level or you'll run into problems quick!
 
[quote author=justint5387 link=topic=101281.msg2231597#msg2231597 date=1208214242]
7/16" fits better
[/quote]

Aye, 10mm to remove the stock bleeders, 7/16" to install the speedbleederz

[quote author=MazdaSteve3 link=topic=101281.msg2231635#msg2231635 date=1208215044]
Yeah keep an eye on the fluid level or you'll run into problems quick!
[/quote]

Ya, I think I was a bit overzealous with my bleeding...went through 3/4 of a can of ATE SuperBlue :shock: whoops!
 
3/4 quart is about how much I use for a full fluid replacement. I think you are fine there. It takes quite a bit at the first corner to get the fluid out of the reservoir, master, etc., but then the other three corners go quickly.

It's a good idea to have a second quart on hand before starting a bleed job, just in case.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
clutch has a similar bleeder, it may be the same size, but i didnt think of it when i measured the brakes, im gonna guess its smaller thread than the brakes, but if you are game, check it out for us.

thread seal tape is teflon tape ;)
 
Little tip on swapping fluids. Use a turkey baster to drain the stock fluid resevoir before starting, and then fill it with the fresh fluid. You'll go through alot less fluid when bleeding or flushing out the system.
 
[quote author=crossbow link=topic=101281.msg2259735#msg2259735 date=1209041847]
Little tip on swapping fluids. Use a turkey baster to drain the stock fluid resevoir before starting, and then fill it with the fresh fluid. You'll go through alot less fluid when bleeding or flushing out the system.

[/quote]

Great idea! This one of the best information threads on this forum, BTW.
 
[quote author=crossbow link=topic=101281.msg2259735#msg2259735 date=1209041847]
Little tip on swapping fluids. Use a turkey baster to drain the stock fluid resevoir before starting, and then fill it with the fresh fluid. You'll go through alot less fluid when bleeding or flushing out the system.

[/quote]

Careful with that when using a power bleeder. If you don't add some fluid back into the reservoir before connecting the bleeder, it is easy to pull air into the system. I've used the turkey baster (and the mighty-vac pump) to do this before, but it seems like the new fluid mixes too much with the old when pouring from the can to top up, so now I don't bother. Maybe if you could remove almost all of the old fluid, it would work better. Have to admit I haven't tried it on the MS3.
 
Gotta keep an eye on this, how are the speedbleeders working out for you Cosmic?
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
the speedbleeders are great
I have gotten in the habbit of bleeding each corner before my autox events while im setting up the car in the morning. Since I already have the car up to change tires, it takes about 1 minute per corner to do it and there is nothing like the feeling of fresh brakes.
 
[quote author=crossbow link=topic=101281.msg2259735#msg2259735 date=1209041847]
Little tip on swapping fluids. Use a turkey baster to drain the stock fluid resevoir before starting, and then fill it with the fresh fluid. You'll go through alot less fluid when bleeding or flushing out the system.

[/quote]

You should probably only remove SOME of the old fluid - if you drain it all, you have a much larger chance of air entering the system, from what I understand. Of course, I haven't done this yet, so I am just taking the information I have received from others. One thing we all know is: air in the system SUCKS!
 
I got my hands on a stock brake bleeder screw from both the front and rear brakes on our car and measured them to be M10x1.0 and just a hair short of 1.25" long, so matching that up on Speed Bleeder Bleeding Brakes Bleeding Motorcycle Brakes Automotive Bleeder Screw Brake Bleeder I came up with part # SB1010S

Just ordered 4 tonight off ebay for 33 shipped, I will update this when I have them installed to confirm they work


I would assume the same part would apply to the Mz3 as well since we share rear brake calipers.
Thanks for the part #!
 
I got my hands on a stock brake bleeder screw from both the front and rear brakes on our car and measured them to be M10x1.0 and just a hair short of 1.25" long, so matching that up on Speed Bleeder Bleeding Brakes Bleeding Motorcycle Brakes Automotive Bleeder Screw Brake Bleeder I came up with part # SB1010S
Russell Brand also sells this size in 3 lengths and for cheaper with caps included. Ive used them on another vehicle. So easy to bleed brakes with these, by yourself.



The SB1010S are 1.19 inches long. = 30.2 MM (http://store-speedbleeder-com.3dcar...-H9407-9497-2-H9497-2-Speed-Bleeder_p_49.html)

Looks like either of the shorter units should work from Russell.
 
Russell Speed Bleeders 639630 work on Speed3 Gen 1, front and rear

Russell Speed Bleeders 639630 work on Speed3 Gen 1, front and rear

They have a larger bolt head, 12 mm instead of 10mm for the OEM units. For the front calipers you'll need a regular open 12mm wrench to turn them as a 12 socket hits the caliper hardline next to it as does a 12 mm flare nut wrench.






My right rear OEM nipple came out with damaged threads. Was hard to get out. Use some penetrant before you do this. I hadnt bled my brakes ever...140k miles.

The slave cylinder for the clutch is a 9mm. I didnt use a speed bleeder. Just the oem nipple. Youd be crazy not to flush this now while youre at it. More fluid needed to be flushed through than I had anticipated before I saw clean fluid.

 
This would be a good mod for me. I'm gearing up to replace the master cylinder in my car and, as a preventative measure, am going to replace all four soft lines.
 
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