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Discussion Starter #21
I posted a DIY for the rear trailing arm bushings. Get the special tool to do it. The job is really easy and I added a lot of pictures. PM me if you can't find the thread. Replacing that bushing made my car handle like new. Serious night & day stuff.

collecting the parts as we speak.... I did see your post on them and glad I saw the part of the tool... Ill be buying one. but still having to collect stock parts like upper strut mounts all the boots and bump stops, new sway bar links since there are trashed, As of now I think i need rear bumpstops/shock boots, and the upper strut mounts...and am eyeing the konig shocks/eibach drop kit. I kinda couldnt stop myself from pulling the trigger on that Eonon radio system as it was marked down to 250 and comes with the backup cam and the OBD2 scanner..... seemed like too good a deal to pass up...... so I bought that. It's weird Im having to go to junkyards to get parts...lol Also am going to get the stock 07 CX7 wheels to put on my 3 as I apparently need tires too....... which Ill also get the rear camber links too.........


So far, replaced the jinky CAI system that was in the car with a nice one that routs behind the bumer, replaced plugs (pulled out fordmoco plugs), replace valve cover gasket, raised the car to a respectable height so im not bouncing all over the place, but since theyre junky AIR shocks it only helped a little bit.



T2D
-replace suspension
-radio replacement
-remove factory nav system
-trailing arm bushings
-figure out CEL (right now it seems to be that purge valve, but we'll see)
-Tires, and wheels since Im at it.
-front door lock actuators ---- speaking of, anyone know if there is a difference for those with "keyless entry" vs those that are not??? and by key less entry they mean the little remote to lock/unlock doors right?
-retint windows (tjob they did is crap)
-headlights
-bose speaker replacements


If anyone has any of these parts lying around....... hit me up....lol
 

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If you're redoing the suspension, replace the sway bar bushings, all linkages, ball joints, and also the insulators for the rear springs. They're simple to replace as all that's needed is to put the vehicle on stands, use a jack to lift the rear arms, disconnect the bolts, and slowly lower to alleviate the tension. Also, do the rear lateral arms. When it comes to struts, I get the entire assy rather than all of the individual parts.

People always poo-poo the little pieces; however, once they replaced the vehicle drives and tracks much batter.

BTW: Get this https://www.emanualonline.com/Cars/Mazda.htm
 

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Discussion Starter #23
If you're redoing the suspension, replace the sway bar bushings, all linkages, ball joints, and also the insulators for the rear springs. They're simple to replace as all that's needed is to put the vehicle on stands, use a jack to lift the rear arms, disconnect the bolts, and slowly lower to alleviate the tension. Also, do the rear lateral arms. When it comes to struts, I get the entire assy rather than all of the individual parts.

People always poo-poo the little pieces; however, once they replaced the vehicle drives and tracks much batter.

BTW: Get this https://www.emanualonline.com/Cars/Mazda.htm

YAY and the cost keeps going up!!! lol
I'll look into the parts mentioned as the rear end will basically be in pieces since my plan is to replace suspension while replacing the trailing arm bushings.

Im going to lower the car but havent found a place that sells the whole strut assembly....... you know of a place that does?
 

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YAY and the cost keeps going up!!! lol
I'll look into the parts mentioned as the rear end will basically be in pieces since my plan is to replace suspension while replacing the trailing arm bushings.

Im going to lower the car but havent found a place that sells the whole strut assembly....... you know of a place that does?
Keep searching. I know they're out there. RockAuto is one, but I don't know if they list lowered parts. My motto is to do it right the first time. No sense mixing new parts with worn parts.

Try CorkSport as well https://corksport.com/mazda-3/2004-2009-mazda-3/2004-2009-mazda-3-parts-full-catalog/
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Keep searching. I know they're out there. RockAuto is one, but I don't know if they list lowered parts. My motto is to do it right the first time. No sense mixing new parts with worn parts.

Try CorkSport as well https://corksport.com/mazda-3/2004-2009-mazda-3/2004-2009-mazda-3-parts-full-catalog/

agree 100% thats why im ordering all new parts separately. I havent been able to find a full assembly so getting new bits to complete it...... but if I find one I will certainly scoop it up..... also Corksport has a full coilover kit, im not a fan of a coilover setup....
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Well this weekend was the time to get the suspension fixed.... got the Koni/eibach setup installed, replaced the front and rear sway bar links, but the bushings... were solid. so they stayed. Also the rear trailing arm bushings were good to go too...... it was just this crappy suspension that was making all that knocking.... what it was was they installed the springs/bracket upside down so the bracket was bare metal to the frame, and used the spring isolaters down at the base of the arms...... genius. Either way, car drives like a dream now!
 

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Well this weekend was the time to get the suspension fixed.... got the Koni/eibach setup installed, replaced the front and rear sway bar links, but the bushings... were solid. so they stayed. Also the rear trailing arm bushings were good to go too...... it was just this crappy suspension that was making all that knocking.... what it was was they installed the springs/bracket upside down so the bracket was bare metal to the frame, and used the spring isolaters down at the base of the arms...... genius. Either way, car drives like a dream now!
I forgot to mention when going through the rear and to replace the spring isolators. Makes a big difference when replacing a cheap component that disintegrates over time.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I forgot to mention when going through the rear and to replace the spring isolators. Makes a big difference when replacing a cheap component that disintegrates over time.

You didnt! It was in an earlier post and I picked up a new set! even though the original ones were still in great shape even though places incorrectly...


just installed a short throw shifter and cut the reverse power cable to my EONON radio as I got tired of the music cutting off when I'd back out as I have no need for a backup cam so I never installed it.



Still getting a CEL though after replacing the purge valve solenoid (had to buy two, one the round one with the new hose isnt for my 08, I had to get the square one so I will be looking for a vacuum leak somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Nothing like buying a car, and having to spend a month getting basic chit fixed ... :serious:

To be honest, I am ok with that as Id rather have the car built how I want it built. Im picky in how I feel things should be so at least this way I have that control... PLUS it gives me something to do during this lock down!
 

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To be honest, I am ok with that as Id rather have the car built how I want it built. Im picky in how I feel things should be so at least this way I have that control... PLUS it gives me something to do during this lock down!
I get that. In the end, you'll have precisely what you want. Which is good.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I get that. In the end, you'll have precisely what you want. Which is good.

Yup.... once I get all these little things fixed.... took it out for a spin amid the lockdown and my traction control and abs lights kicked on while on the highway. Ive read abs sensor possibly, or even the friggin MAF?!?!?!?! Im wondering if the sensor wires got messed up or pulled loose during driving, I dont have the factory brackets for them so I zip tied them to the upper sway bar link bold (on the outside.... away from the link itself) something........ I'll have to look.



Also still looking at the CEL, right now I have a P2187 and another that I cant recall so far I have done the following.


Cleaned MAF sensor
replaced spark plugs,

Replaced the purge solenoid valve (which mine was squared and not the rounded one like everyone else's it seems.


Next to replace is the fuel cap which doesn't click when tightened so it might be the culprit



and will need to check for vacuum a leak somewhere.... is there a home grown way of doing this without going crazy and spending a ton of loot for a Mech to diagnose?


Also heard intake manifold gaskets could be the problem but not sure hot to check that either.


Any help would be greatly appreciated!!



Thanks,
Mud
 

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Wish I knew what to look for. Too bad several of the members who performed swaps and wrote up a lot of the details haven't logged in for a while. I haven't been on as much because I've been WFH since mid-March and keep working 11-hour days. That's mostly due to a backlog of work, which should lighten up soon.
 
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