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Discussion Starter #21
Finally got set up with MazdaEdit. I went through and touched up a few maps and the car seems to be responding well. Apparently Ive got the 1.6/2.3L ROM ID which is not defined as well as the others, although I have most of what I need. And some testing has uncovered some bad map names, but at least Im figuring out when they are used. The 3' of snow in the last 2 weeks has made WOT logging hard. My laptop comes with me every day I don't have my son in the back and its not snowing.

I haven't talked myself into braving the cold to install the exhaust yet, still "enjoying" the clunk it makes over every bump.

Still on the look out for a Hotchkis rear bar, some decent camber plates and some rear camber arms and I think the suspension will be close to being purchased for this year's set up.
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Said goodbye to my 1st love last week. Guy flew in from VA to drive my Evo back. It was dropped off at an Evo shop in DC on Monday to start the NASA TT build the buyer is planning. <cry> 8 years, ~85k miles, and sold it with close to 400whp and a autocross SM prepped suspension. <cry><cry>

But now I have my garage back. And I can stop hiding packages as they come in for the 3. lol

Fatty Hotchkis rear sway bar received yesterday from miata_racer. :)

Im seeing big knock spikes in my logs when shifting or going WOT too quickly. Im assuming it is a combo of worn rear and leaky pass motor mounts.

Ordered the following over the weekend:
- AWR Pass motor mount, 80 durometer
- AWR Rear motor mount, 80 durometer
- Hardrace Driver's side motor mount, hardened rubber
- Spin-on oil filter conversion
- Remflex gaskets for the corksport cat back
- Dunlop ZIIs in 225/45R17. These are last year's compound...cause Im a cheap bastard and they were only 101/pc on closeout.

once all the mounts and oil filter stuff comes in, I plan to do my first fluid change on it and install the cat back and mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Finally cleaned this thing the other day. Too bad its no where near as nice looking now. I hate winter.

Clean winter mode


The other day on the way home it starting sounding like someone hitting a hammer to the subframe over every single bump or crack in the road. Get home, jack it up and see the shock moving within the mount. :huh2: Fkn Racelands. Both sides were like this.


So I went ahead and installed the rear (black) shocks and spring/adj. perches from the MS Motorsports coilovers. Rides soooooo much nicer. I think the springs are actually stiffer, but the shocks are so much better that it doesn't matter. Every noise Ive been hearing was the shocks, not the exhaust. Its silent now.


My wife has a friend in town this weekend, so that means I had the green light to plan garage time. :bigsmile:

Yesterday started with the passenger side motor mount. The frame rail was covered in oil.


Old pos VS new AWR 80 duro mount


doh!




Then tackled the driver's side. She's buried underneath the battery box.
Old that wasn't too bad really VS new Hardrace hardened rubber mount




Then tackled the rear. Once I figured out to get the damn jack out of there and just let the motor sit, it was easy.

Old soft and mushy VS new AWR 80 duro


I then swapped the oil filter housing for a spin on style and did an oil change. No pics, but Im glad I did it. The cartridge was leaking. Glad to have a normal one anyways. Only problem here was the front clip/nuts on the undertray. What a dumb design, unless what Im seeing isn't oem.

Then tackled the exhaust. This was the only major pain in the ass all day. Only had to cut one section and wasn't hard to get off. But the rear support bracket at the tip was cut off. So after cutting the custom mount off the old muffler, breaking the bolt I wanted to use to mount it, breaking a bit to drill the bolt out, I finally got it mounted up. The fitment is pretty good.

old VS used Corksport w/ test pipe


Only major vibes are between 1k-2k rpm. Not too bad, couple rattles in the rear that are likely due to my exhaust hanger. I didn't expect this big of a change in exhaust note and sound. Very mellow at idle and low load, but its throaty and sounds like an animal under load. CRAZY resonance between 4.5-5k, which Im sure is a mixture of the mounts, intake mod and exhaust. :twisted: Hard to quantify any gains.

Happy with it. Was really happy to get some known issues fixed before they became worse. All-in-all a good day of wrenching.

Front coilover setup waiting on a good deal on camber plates to pop up. I'll put the rear bar in at the same time and may go ahead and do endlinks all around.

Got some tuning to do now. :bigsmile:
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Still trying lots of different stuff with the tune. But Im hating the rareness of my ROM. I obtained a stock tune from a different ROM and its soooo much more defined than mine is. Ive had someone helping me look into it without much success, but I think Im getting close enough. Should be ready for dyno time at my buddies house in a couple weeks. Hoping to have a really good handle on everything before then so Im not chasing my tail on the dyno.


Installed an Eonon GA5151 yesterday. Having a few issues that Im still working through just like everyone else with the unit.

Im excited to get the Torque app working so I can monitor stuff without carrying the laptop around. Ive had the laptop in the car almost daily now and its hard to not try and watch it as well as a pain to carry around. Found that the unit doesn't work with the OpenPort 2.0 via USB, so I ordered up a Bluetooth adapter. I should be able to upload datalogs to the laptop via WiFi and just have to bring it to the car to flash.

GPS seems to work well. Im using the Sygic at the moment and trying a few others out before committing to pay. I cant tether or hotspot my Android phone so I have to get offline maps. Republic Wireless $25 unlimited plan, apparently with features disabled. May be root time...

Havent figured out how to hook up the backup camera yet and now its cold again, so that will wait.


Spent the morning today finishing off the purchases for this season's setup. :bigsmile:

Corksport camber plates
SPC rear arms
Whiteline adj. Endlinks F/R
Whiteline front LCA front bushings
Whiteline rear toe bushings
Prothane rear LCA bushings
Energy Suspensions rear trailing arm bushings (Focus)
17x7.5 +45 Rota Slipstreams in Steel Grey

Hoping that's enough to PAX top 5 locally and not get stomped too bad down at NER events.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
17" slips discontinued, so I jumped on the 15" band wagon. :) Sold the 225/45-17 ZIIs and bought some 225/45-15 RS3v2s. I didnt realize it, but according to tire rack and wheel weights online, Im saving almost 25lbs in just rotating mass! Thats crazy.

Looks like Im keeping my 17x8 Enkei OEM Evo 7 wheels for daily usage. Probably just put some budget 215 or 225s on them. Theres a little life left in the tires installed, so they will get put on soon.

Everything except datalogging is now working well with the head unit. Bluetooth adapter should be here this week and I'll be able to try Torque out.
 

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17" slips discontinued, so I jumped on the 15" band wagon. :)
You'll be glad you did. Just about everyone on the serious side of STF runs 15's.

Sold the 225/45-17 ZIIs and bought some 225/45-15 RS3v2s. I didnt realize it, but according to tire rack and wheel weights online, Im saving almost 25lbs in just rotating mass! Thats crazy.
After you burn through the 225/45/15's you might want to consider a 205/50/15. Most guys competing at a high level in STF aren't running 225's and run a 205/50/15 or a 195/50/15 on a 7.5" wheel. I switched last Fall and I'm definitely a believer now.
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
I ran 205s on my STC Civic with 15x7.5s. I wanted to put ZIIs on the 3 and those are offered in 205, but just felt like they would be tiny on this car. If tire Rack wasnt so quick on shipping, Id change my order. I ordered yesterday and they are probably on my door step today.

Biggest difference is turn in response, right?
 

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I ran 205s on my STC Civic with 15x7.5s. I wanted to put ZIIs on the 3 and those are offered in 205, but just felt like they would be tiny on this car. If tire Rack wasnt so quick on shipping, Id change my order. I ordered yesterday and they are probably on my door step today.

Biggest difference is turn in response, right?
Right, the skinnier tires feel better but seem to have the same level of lateral/longitudinal grip because tire grip is much more affected by rim width rather than tire width. I noticed better results right away after doing nothing else but switching to the narrower tire and the car just plain feels better. I have no actual testing to back that up, but guys way better than me have and they prefer the narrower tire. I think it's an urban myth that a bigger/heavier car needs a wider tire, it actually needs a wider rim but of course we're limited to 7.5." In my experience the 205/50/15 works great on the Mazda3.

Again, much of this is my personal opinion so take it for what it's worth.
 

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On the topic of turn in response...Any reason I shouldnt get the offset front LCA bushing? I sent Mack a PM to see if his is still available.

My 2 concerns are dulling turn in response too much and making the inner front LCA bushing bind since it articulates it.

thoughts?
I passed on the offset front LCA bushing. To me it wasn't worth introducing some bind to the suspension to gain a measly .5 degree of caster. If more caster is desired, I'd slot the upper strut towers. You can gain more caster that way while at the same time not bind up the suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
gaaaah! The 15x7.5 Slips are backordered for 5-7 weeks. I knew I shouldnt have waited this long. crap crap crap

Our 1st local event is typically the 1st of May. They havent released a schedule yet due to us losing our really big venue and scrambling to find replacements.

Sent TR an email seeing if I can change the order since I havent actually received tracking yet. If so, I'll change to 205s and may end up getting some wheels from them and having them mount and balance.
 

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I'm on my second set of those and really like'm. I'd try to hold out for the 7.5" Slips if possible. Perhaps hop in another car for the first event this year and find a co-drive.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Im on the waiting list. If it extends any further, I'll probably just get some 15x7s.

I know can co-drive my buddy's FRS or boosted TC for grins. And an older guy in a B Street Evo 9 let me run it several times last year.

If I run my 17x8 wheels, Id just get moved to STX, right? Thats appealing to just get out and shake down the car...
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Test fit my 17x8s over the weekend. She a dirty little thing. :)





The tires that are mounted are 215/45-17 BFG Gforce T/As and are completely shot. Started looking for budget summer tire replacements (V12s are my favorite budget tires so far...) and realized there is no way I can replace these for less than what I paid for the 225/45-17 ZIIs in the basement @ $100/pc. So instead of selling the ZIIs, Im going to run them as my summer tires. I spent the last 3 summers on ZIIs in my Honda and the Evo and never had any issues. So it looks like I'll at least be on good tires if Im running these wheels in STX for an event or 2.

Most of the parts ordered in the last week have arrived. I still need to source a spacer for in between the camber plates and upper spring seat but I think I will be able to start installing it all next weekend. I have Friday off and if weather is cooperative, Im pulling the rear subframe for the rear arms and rust proofing while Im in there. All the bushings, endlinks, etc will get done at the same time and any other components that need it will get painted.

Also made some awesome progress on figuring out the tune over the weekend. Unfortunately Ive got it running 99% open loop, but at least I now have control. There is a timer that controls how long the transition from closed loop to open loop happens. I dont have it available in my limited defined ROM ID. I do have control over the crossover via TPS and Load tables, but its taking 6+ seconds to transition and targeting 14+ AFR that whole time (no bueno..). So now its setup so that anything off idle is open loop. Anything higher and it goes back into closed loop at cruise and wont let go again. Ive had someone with MazdaEdit Professional trying to define the timer with no luck thus far.

The guys at Palmer Performance sent out an update to the DashCommand app Sat morning that included Knock Retard. :) Here is a quick shot of my Eonon GA5151 running the DashCommand app. Starting at Top Left in Counter-Clockwise order: AFR, STFT, LTFT, Air Temp, Coolant Temp, Ign Timing vs Knock Retard vs EGR duty timeline graph, Knock Retard and the middle is VVT advance. Ive got the gauge layout much cleaner now and added a volt meter.

 

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Discussion Starter #38
thanks! They are 17x8 +38 and around 18lbs I believe. Enkei OEM Evo 7 wheels that I got on trade for stock Evo suspension parts. Great that they are hubcentric on the Mazda too! The face pokes a littler further out than I would like. A little more rubber will also make it look better. I ran 245 or 255s on the same size wheel for the longest time, so the 215s seem tiny.

Im back on the steelies and snows for safety reasons for the time being. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Ive been looking at the Drive-by-Wire system over the weekend. Apparently, automakers program cars these days so that the ECU is constantly trying to add as much Throttle Plate as it can in order to make the car feel more peppy off the lot. One of the parts of the DashCommand app shows you the difference between Pedal Angle and Actual Throttle Plate Angle and it was sometimes 30deg difference!

Read this article and the maps I have are really similar in look and the original tunes are similar to what I had.
http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/show ... Improve-it

So:
Load is the measure of available TQ. More Load = more potential power. So when 30% Pedal Angle = almost 80% load, you've just turned that 80% of available torque into only 30% pedal angle and the 1st 10% is mostly a dead spot so its more like a 20% range. 100% Throttle Plate angle is achieved long before 80% Pedal Angle too. In the example provided in the link, he numbs it down so that the load values are more linear to actual Pedal Angle and removes the ECU's instructions to add more.

It Works! I still need to fine tune it. But it works. Feels more sluggish from a dead rest, that's the part I need to fix. But the rest is spot on. The last 10-20% of pedal travel never seemed to make a difference, but now it does. Now it doesn't go 100% until I bury the pedal. Im always spinning an inner tire pulling out in traffic and now its controllable. Should have the same affect on the course.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Here are my throttle duty and requested torque maps. Ive intentionally set both up to 90=100% since the ECU never registers above 90%, but I don't think its necessary and I think Im going to move it back to 100%. I didn't go as extreme in the link provided, but Im still not done with it. The several (gear dependent?) other throttle maps match the maximum map. It may be worth testing this in different gears as well.



 
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