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Has anyone found a cure to this? I've had something similar I think. But very intermittent. So if I go into the dealer, there's a 90% chance it won't act up for them, and so they won't do anything...

Occasionally, when driving, I'll put it in neutral. The revs will start bouncing, and will sometimes "freeze" up at like 3000-4000RPMS like I'm gassing it...but I'm not.

And today, after reconnecting the battery, it idled very low (e.x. 300rpms...) and when I clutched in, all te lights came on, and it stalled. I started it back up, and it didn't do it again. Just a relatively low idle (I think) now...

My warranty on my 2004 Mazda3 expires on June 6...blah...I didn't know the drivetrain warranty was the same as the bumper-to-bumper for my year. The previous owner had gotten a new engine under warranty. Does the engine warranty restart itself? haha
 

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Well I had something like this. My idle would drop when my ac was on and I was stopped at a light or something. There is a tsb out for it involving reflashing the ecu with some update. I just had this done on thursday and my car has been amazing since. So maybe the same tsb fix could fix these problems as well if they aren't the same thing.
 

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I don't think my idle drops when the ac cycles on...buutttt...it seems to only rev wildly/freeze on high rpms when the AC is on...


Maybe someone recognizes a TSB (if there is one for this) in here under Mazda3 ( http://www.protegefaq.net/tsb/ ) that could possibly explain this? I'm not sure what it would be...
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Hey guys. Just updating...

Dealer still has my car and still can't fix it. Mazda Corporate doesn't have a clue either. Fun, huh? :zoom_craigy_zoom :
 

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Gentlemen: Some of these issues could be due to tight intake or exhaust valves. Some of you might want to check your clearances. I won’t hurt.
 

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[quote author=Silver2.3Touring link=topic=107402.msg2356909#msg2356909 date=1212339923]
Hey guys. Just updating...

Dealer still has my car and still can't fix it. Mazda Corporate doesn't have a clue either. Fun, huh? :zoom_craigy_zoom :
[/quote]



Wooww...That sucks. :(


What do you mean tight intake or exhaust valves "Cross Bolt?"
 

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[quote author=surfNS link=topic=107402.msg2357103#msg2357103 date=1212347163]
[quote author=Silver2.3Touring link=topic=107402.msg2356909#msg2356909 date=1212339923]
Hey guys. Just updating...

Dealer still has my car and still can't fix it. Mazda Corporate doesn't have a clue either. Fun, huh? :zoom_craigy_zoom :
[/quote]



Wooww...That sucks. :(


What do you mean tight intake or exhaust valves "Cross Bolt?"
[/quote]

Overtightened...

Which would be inpossible on probably 90% of our cars because mine hasn't seen a shop in ~50k miles and just started acting up in the last ~5k.
 

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[quote author=surfNS link=topic=107402.msg2357103#msg2357103 date=1212347163]
[quote author=Silver2.3Touring link=topic=107402.msg2356909#msg2356909 date=1212339923]
Hey guys. Just updating...

Dealer still has my car and still can't fix it. Mazda Corporate doesn't have a clue either. Fun, huh? :zoom_craigy_zoom :
[/quote]



Wooww...That sucks. :(


What do you mean tight intake or exhaust valves "Cross Bolt?"
[/quote]

Metallurgy has improved over the years to counter act this, but still not impossible to have tight valve clearance. As the valve pounds into the seat, wear can occur between the seat and the valve face. As they wear, the required clearance between the bucket and the cam close up. If this happens on the intake valve, the engine will act much like a vacuum leak causing erratic idle and poor performance. If it happens on the exhaust valve, almost the same thing will be experienced but if left to long, the results will be a burned valve. One could say the wear at the valve seat and face will be offset by the wear between the bucket face and the cam, but not always. If you have exhausted all other possibilities and have not found the problem, it’s worth a check. It’s not that difficult.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
[quote author=Cross Bolt link=topic=107402.msg2357156#msg2357156 date=1212350487]
[quote author=surfNS link=topic=107402.msg2357103#msg2357103 date=1212347163]
[quote author=Silver2.3Touring link=topic=107402.msg2356909#msg2356909 date=1212339923]
Hey guys. Just updating...

Dealer still has my car and still can't fix it. Mazda Corporate doesn't have a clue either. Fun, huh? :zoom_craigy_zoom :
[/quote]



Wooww...That sucks. :(


What do you mean tight intake or exhaust valves "Cross Bolt?"
[/quote]

Metallurgy has improved over the years to counter act this, but still not impossible to have tight valve clearance. As the valve pounds into the seat, wear can occur between the seat and the valve face. As they wear, the required clearance between the bucket and the cam close up. If this happens on the intake valve, the engine will act much like a vacuum leak causing erratic idle and poor performance. If it happens on the exhaust valve, almost the same thing will be experienced but if left to long, the results will be a burned valve. One could say the wear at the valve seat and face will be offset by the wear between the bucket face and the cam, but not always. If you have exhausted all other possibilities and have not found the problem, it’s worth a check. It’s not that difficult.
[/quote]

Interesting...I'll mention this to the dealer on Monday.
 

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[quote author=surfNS link=topic=107402.msg2357227#msg2357227 date=1212353839]
So I can check it myself? How would I do that?
[/quote]


You could do it yourself if you have a set of feeler gauges. You will need to look up the clearance settings for both the Intake and the Exhaust Valves. There will be a go/no go specified setting. You of coarse know that you have 8 Intake and 8 Exhaust Valves. Here is the real issue that you may not want to deal with. If you find some too tight, you will have to determine how much clearance you need to add, then you will need to have special tools and the know how to make the changes. The crank has to be immobilized with a special bolt/pin and the camshafts have to come out to change the buckets. Then the cams will have to be re-timed. There are no shims on these buckets as there are with other engines.
Back to just checking the clearance (only). You should buy a new valve cover gasket.
Make sure when checking the clearance, slide the feeler gauge between the heel of the cam and the bucket.

I wish you good luck and hope you find your problem.
 

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Mine finally threw a check engine light. Got it checked, something to do with an EVAP leak. Haven't had a chance to get more into it though. What's weird though is now it's not as bad as it used to be. (It used to almost stall out, now it just gets to about 300rpms and bounces back). Also, since this started, 2 out of the 5+ times I've filled my tank it's been really hard to start, like I have to give it gas while cranking it likes it's carbureted or something.
 

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k here's another piece to the puzzle. today I took out my entire intake system trying to find my egr valve (see my other thread), and in the meanwhile I noticed my throttle body had some carbon build up, so I sprayed some intake/throttle body cleaner in it to clear it out. Cleaned it right up. I put everything back together cause I still couldn't find the EGR, and now my idle sits at 1500 rpms while coasting/slowing down (both while in neutral and with the clutch in). It doesn't drop below 1500 rpm until a DEAD stop, then it idles pretty much normally, about 900-700 rpm. Any clues? Anyone? Anyone?
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Lastest update...

GOt my car back TUesday. IT's not fixed. THe dealer says it has no clue. Has replaced all kinds of parts. THe car is not throwing any codes. Mazda Corp. says give it back and wait for a code. So...my car still idles like sh*t, the dealer tried lots of things, but corporate is telling me to go pound sand. I have ot wait until somthing "actually" brakes. I guess the idle being so rough that I have to turn the car off at lights isn't proof that something is broken.

I'm pissed, but not at the dealer. THey've been really cool with me this last month. I can't believe Mazda would say, "Yup there's a problem, but we don't know how to fix it. Keep paying for the car and deal with it." :evil:

Bastards...
 

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Just noticed my car doing this recently, thought it was just the car but guess not, gonna take it to mazda soon, still under warranty.
 

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[quote author=Silver2.3Touring link=topic=107402.msg2370289#msg2370289 date=1212717128]
Lastest update...

GOt my car back TUesday. IT's not fixed. THe dealer says it has no clue. Has replaced all kinds of parts. THe car is not throwing any codes. Mazda Corp. says give it back and wait for a code. So...my car still idles like sh*t, the dealer tried lots of things, but corporate is telling me to go pound sand. I have ot wait until somthing "actually" brakes. I guess the idle being so rough that I have to turn the car off at lights isn't proof that something is broken.

I'm pissed, but not at the dealer. THey've been really cool with me this last month. I can't believe Mazda would say, "Yup there's a problem, but we don't know how to fix it. Keep paying for the car and deal with it." :evil:

Bastards...
[/quote]


Check this:
http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=113823.0
 

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Did you try unplugging the EGR... My harness plug had a short. If it does happen to be that problem, you can get a new engine harness. One short in the EGR wiring, can make it stuck open and form a massive vacuum leak. the evap code is what I got as well.

I then got a pig tail from my local dealer (spliced the wire and soldered) and replaced my egr...This fixed my problem --- TRY IT!
 
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