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5,028 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have been researching this quite a while... Have read all the posts, several books on boosting and tuning and have asked questions and am ready to start to build and boost... In the full knowledge that I know nothing hahaha.

The thread is specific to the build and

  • Generic ( not build specific ) questions are asked in the form of another thread which I refer to below under "Related Q&A"
  • Updates - I note them in the first post ( this one ) under "Status"
  • I do make changes to the first post and I don't attempt to track or identify them

  • Reliability, got to start every time and work
  • Upgradeable , initially am happy to go with < 250 HP but to have solid foundations to go further ( 350 +)
  • Useable, LOL have to be able to drive the damn thing when I'm done
  • Aesthetics, though not ultra important do also play a part and I don't want the engine bay to look like a Frankenstein and the impact on the cabin should be minimal or at least complement vs dominate...
Rough Plan
I am taking this build fairly slowly, working on one piece at a time and finishing it... This should mean that at each stage the number of untried/ untested things is limited to the immediate modifications. Sequence will probably work out like

  • FI/C, Gauges and sensor modules ( Done )
  • Exhaust Install ( Delivered and sitting in my garage )
  • Engine & Tranny Install ( Done )
  • Sensor's Install ( Mostly done )
  • Turbo Install ( Custom work done waiting install )
  • Wire/tubing management & tidy up, cuz a job aint done till the floor is clean :beer:
Other Random Build Stuff

  • GodSpeed intake is removed from the build as it removes some low end torque
  • didn't key the crank, may regret this big time
  • Having a beater car ( spare ) is really the right way to go ( i didn't and it hurt big time )
  • As a hobbyist in a DD i only have 8 hour stints to work on stuff and that's not much and makes planning very tricky
  • Tuning is a hard thing to learn and much more sensible to pay a pro to do it for u
  • Stuff that initially works may fail in different weather conditions ( My catch can for example )
  • Built engine + JBR engine mounts = sound deadening is required
  • Always have 2 of all essentials ( Spark Plugs, MAF, O2 Sensor ) = Only way to keep the car on the road
  • This Is so Much Fun


  • In Process
    • Fix Rattles
    • Realign FMIC
    • Figure out IC to TB tubing
    • Fuel rail install = some issues here and i need to figure out how to best to mount AKA the mounting solution does not work
  • Differed
    • Modify the Valve Train Cover to allow the knock sensor cable to pass thru it
    • Run Knock sensor cables and power harness, mount mic and warning gauge
    • apply TP FIC tune and test = Tripoint tune is not the be all and may not be the right way to go
  • Next ( Post engine install )
    • Install IC, exhaust and Turbo
    • Benchmark and refine FIC
    • have a good time lol
  • Completed
    • 11/2012
      • PLX Display modules installed & sensor Modules tested
      • Power and communications wiring from Cabin to Engine Bay ( via the hood latch firewall opening)
    • 12/2012
      • PLX Module housings and case modifications including power and sensor loom
      • Plx module testing and tidy up....
    • 1/2013
      • Decided to do the MS3 Transmission swap... and ordered all ( Transmission, Clutch, axles, etc)
      • Purchased fairly much all of the stuff required for the transmission swp
      • Tested MS3 transmission manually
      • figure out what needs to be done with the transmission feed lines
      • Identify ARP flywheel bolt types and all other related and order
      • Confirm the type of pilot bearing and Clutch casing bolt is required
      • Source all Transmission parts ( last bit required is the drivers side axle)
      • reworking the Build thread front page - posts are starting to be hard to edit from all of my devices as i think im at or near the max per post...THANK you orangevirus1 and Epic3
      • Fix damage Axel metal cup,protects the oil seal
    • 2/2013
      • Quotes reviewed and builder selected
      • Address the tripoint intake and speed tranny issue
      • Catch can recieved and confirmed config
      • Figure out connections for turbo Water( comming from TB cooling loop)
      • Ordered FI/C device
      • finalize order.
      • RMA the DM100 - - - completed waiting return
      • Select Trubo plumbing and turbo order
      • finalize engine order.
      • RMA the DM100 - - - completed and working
      • Select Trubo plumbing and turbo
      • Identify and oreder BPV
      • paint Transmission
      • Clean new TB
    • 03/2013
      • Clean exhaust manifold & paint = good to go
      • Clean axles & paint = Good to go
      • Oil pan 10AN conversion ( Engine installer will do this - Confirmed)
      • Order injectors siemens 600cc
      • finalize mechanic
      • Secure supplies for turbo install
      • Prep transmission = Mount all brackets
    • 04/2013
      • Inventory all engine stuff and secure docs for
        • ARP bolt application
        • Clutch install - Done
        • MS3 transmission install
        • Engine Mounts - Done
      • Dry fit all tubing and turbo stuff -
        • Started with the DP and exhaust = New flange and some Down Pipe adjustments required... other than that it looks good
      • Finalize all sensor placements and
    • 5/2013
      • Test and finalize logging solutions ( Reopened )- Done
      • Rebuild PC = done
      • Build FIC plug and Play harness
      • Confirm ETA for engine Shipment - Done
      • Finalize mechanic and dates - Done - either the 3rd or
      • 7th of June
    • 07/13
      • Prep GodSpeed intake ( No port or polish ... not required ... TB spacer not required )
      • Benchmark post engine install
      • Clean all parts
      • Install FIC
      • Install oil and coolant sensors and finalize cable
      • prep new fuel pump and basket
    • 10/13
      • get extra welded as required ( Exhaust )
      • Install bung for #2 os sensor and for EGT
      • Install PLX sensor modules and wire
      • Install MAF housing to test and finalize lb/min FIC % adjustments ( In processes )
      • Install Injectors
      • Install Fuel Pump
      • Fix Fuel Leak

Must haves

  • pinned bearings
  • monitoring capability ( AFR and Boost initially but want to be able to expand without having to add a million gauges)
  • head studs
  • pistons and rods ( replace OEM)
  • welded BSD
  • logging capability
  • What else?
Might do..

  • oil filter relocation
Weak points.. (Or day 2 projects)
To be tackled before going up into the 300's (HP that is)

  • Cooling in general ( oil, coolant, etc)
  • ECU / EMS (AEM EMS 4 - maybe)
Related Q&A

  • Whats the downside of keying the crank? = none
  • Can I get an ECU harness extension ( aka Id like to wire everything up beforehand on my sofa :) ) = No
  • Where do you weld the bsd = you'd weld the plate to the bottom of the block ( )
  • Are PLX sensor modules water resistant = hell no
  • Can the PLX sensor modules be housed in the engine bay? = hell yes, in a dry place....
  • How many bungs ( for O2/temp) are there by default on the tripoint ? = 2 and you can ask for more...
  • Do I build or buy = Build (
  • Knock sensor should i have one = An alarm to say its happening or something for sure.. something a little more proactive like a Safeguard is not a bad thing to have either but overkill for me(
  • Do PLX have a knock sensor module and or recommend one = No they don't have a module and no other vendor integrates into their setup..
  • Krankvent is it worth it and what does it do = IMO yes and read this which gets into the detail of how it works and why u may want to do this (links to a few other posts )
  • Do I need a catch can... = big thread up here on this... So am not going to go old ground.... If intrested go here ... I am going with one but am a 100% sure u can get away w/o one
  • ok so I think I need to run a compression ratio of 8.5:1 = sure but thats very low and many people are running in the 9's and are having no problem ( and ) ... Honestly this ratio is way better in general....
  • so do I bore and hone the cylinders = No, the Mazda Duratec engines have thin cylinder walls.... A bore may basically destroy the short block so just hone them.... Where did I come to this conclusion? Multiple build threads and I can't remember what ones or where but am 100% sure.....
  • MS3 Transmission swap or not = Initially I decided not to swap however on review it just makes sense to do it now.. the engine will be out and all the work required to do the swap is fairly much the same as leaving the 5-speed in + reinstalled ( with the exception of the axles) ... the only downside, as ever is the money... that said the old adage "Pay me now or pay me later" stands ... here is the link to the swap thread which goes thru everything in detail and confirms that that 2006+ models don't need to replace there hubs "afaik 06+ hubs are all the same. if you have a nut on the end instead of a bolt then they will fit. mine had bolts so i needed to change. " ( )
  • Which is my left and right? (LOL) & a tone of other transmission swap stuff I had no idea about = Left side is the Drivers side and the Right is the passenger, Transmission brackets are not interchangeable, the drivers side engine mount on the Mz3 will not work/ will need a mS3 one, bla bla bla (
  • How do you connect the MZ3 Clutch lines to the MS3 Transmission = Reuse the lines from the MZ3, replace the connector port with the MS3 line connector and then bend the MZ3 line into place.. (
  • Are all the engine mounts compatible MZ3 to MS3 = No, the rear engine mount is but the transmission engine mount is not. You have to use the MS3 one ( )
  • Can the MS3 Transmission mount be just bolted on to the MZ3 stock body transmission mount points = Yes (
  • Should I use ARP bolts for the Flywheel and or other Transmission bolt downs = Up to me... im going to do arp for the flywheel other than that we will see... Im thinking ARP, if they do it, for the bell housing / engine bolts because 1 bolt hole does not line up
    Will all the ms3 Transmission bolt holes match up to the MZ3 engine block = No, one oil pan bolt hole will not
  • Would it be a good idea to install a MS3 oil pan ( and fix the bolt misalignment) = maybe but there as quite a bit of work involved and no reported issues from other of issues post install ( wo 1 bolt) so I say leave well alone (
  • Radiator and cooling? what to do = really stock is fine, its a day 2 thing - IMO the radiator will need an upgrade and one that fits stock mounting positions is best (
  • Balance the car? should I = yea probably need to move weight to the back but it will be a day 2 thing i think (
  • Draw thru and Blow Thru turbo setups whats the diff? = Draw through would be inlet>Maf>turbo>ic>bov>tb Vs Blow through would be inlet>turbo>ic>bov>Maf>tb
  • BOV Vs BPV = BOV ( Blow Off Valve) vents to the atmosphere Vs BPV ( By pass Valve) recirculates the air ack into the intake ( after the MAF)
  • What size is the TB intake? = Mz3 04/05 is 2.5" and Mz3 06 and up is 2.35"
  • Where do u run the wastegate boost line from = charge pipe
  • Engine install prep what to do = uninstall all aftermarket stuff... this really depends on the mechanic u go to but I suspect it will make the install less complex and reduce the number of potential "points of blame" if something goes wrong
  • stock pressure sensor size? = port it 1/4" npt
  • stock pressure sensor required? = No it is not.. and its removal will not cause any problems
  • What do u clean an exhaust manifold with = lacquer thinner, NOT WATER as most are iron and will absorb the water and rust
  • what AN size matches which Hose size =
  • How does the car work on Closed Loop operation =
  • what are the TP injectors = think they are bosch green tops... 440cc - very important to know if u heed to convert the TP fuel table to to adjust for larger injectors\
  • stock injectors = 23lb/h and 242 cc/min
  • Why am I not doing Water/Meth? = It never dawned on me! lol,,,, maybe when i hit the limits of the build...
  • Internal Vs External wastegate which one? = Internal for me right now External WT work great and shine for big turbos and big PSI's particularly when the Internal WG is overwhelmed.. in my case I dont think either will apply and if the later does occur ( would be a surprise ) ill see boost creep and address the issue then..
  • Are Torx sockets required = Yes, i think # 8 is needed for the exhaust manifold
  • what gaskets are required for the turbo install = Exhaust manifold, Turbo manifold, turbo to DP and DP to exhaust gaskets...
  • Are there tourqe specs for AN fittings = Yes indeed there are
  • Are there tourqe specs for NTP fittings = No indeed there are not
  • log log log... its really important.. do it b4 and after and understand as much as u can
  • Do i need to replace the sensors ( MAF or W/B O2) = MAF maybe and O2 ( if ur over 60K) id say yes to be sure... and would go a step further u should also have backup sensors / parts for the inevitable breakage or failure
  • How important is logging = Very Very Very important before and after... Before to fix any underlying issues that u may identify ( + learn what u are doing before the show starts) and after to be sure all is well....
  • How important is it to have the car operating OK before Boost = Very... the car has to be operating to or better than spec... in that i mean LTFT should be perfect, no codes and or re-occurring errors
  • Is it worth putting money into a good HW or S/W logging solution = IMO Yes Yes Yes invaluable
  • is it worth Playing with the FIC b4 install = Yes.... being familiar with the software is a must .... figuring out how it holds together as your car is spluttering is a PIA
  • Is it worth the time to install as much as u can b4 the FI install = depends, but IMO anything to do with Fuel and Air metering and or measurement and or delivery = YES ... reduces the number of issues
  • Do i need to measure things = Yes u will be an expert
  • How hard id it to upgrade the fuel system = Not hard but very time consuming
  • Is it important to watch the coolant and oil temps = YES... Very... especially after installations
  • JBR engine mount brake in time - How long = between 1500 and 3000 miles
  • Do built engines take a while to break in = Yes ... id say my engine really only became useful after about 400 miles and improved all the way up to/past 2K miles

5,028 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Parts / packages

  • TURBO:
    • MS3 Exhaust Manifold modified with EXT 1/8 NPT port
    • ATP-MS3-002 Front Mount Intercooler Kit for Mazdaspeed3 (2007 thru 1 / Silicon Color: Black / Optional_Intercoler_size_selection: Default_Standard_400HP_Garrett_Intercooler / Alternate_BOV_Flange: HKS
    • ATP-MS3-003 3" Inlet Pipe Kit for Mazdaspeed3 (2007 thru 2010)
      • COLOR: BLACK
      • 3in_45deg_elbow: Include_3inch_45degree Stock_Airbox_stockTMIC_Location_Plumbing: No_short_elbow_and_reroute_hoses
      • Im_Using_Mazdaspeeds_CAI_Kit: Yes_substitute_PCV return_nipple_for_plug_on_pipe
        • ATP-MS3-004 High Flow Intake Extension, MAF HSG And Filter Kit For Mazdaspeed3 1 - color_of_silicone: Black
        • ATP-MS3-008 GT2871R Bolt On Turbo Kit for Mazdaspeed3 (2007 thru 2010) 1 Select Waste gate Pressure: .5 Bar lower pressure
        • ATP-MS3-011 Long Downpipe for Mazdaspeed3 1 - NOTE : Modification to the flange and length is required
        • GRT-TBO-201 Kit Upgrade Charge, upgrade GT28XXR in turbo kit to GTX2867R 1
        • ATP-FLS-022 O2 Sensor Stainless Weld Bung 1
        • ATP-FTG-001 Standard 18mm 02 Sensor Plug 3
        • ATP-FLS-161 45 Degree Fitting For O2 Sensor
        • BPV -HKS 71004-KK001 - HKS Universal SSQV & HKS 71002-AZ001 - SSQV Recirculation Kit for MAZDA 3 Mazdaspeed 2007
        • Boost/vacume block
      • Supplies
        • Brass 1/8" NPT Male to 4mm Barbed Straight (WAT001136) `
        • 3/8 NPT to -16 AN L
        • -16 AN female to -20AN Male reducer
        • -20 AN Hose end
        • -20 AN Hose X 3 Feet
        • 20 x 4mm Black Silicone Boost/Vacuum Hose Per Ft. (VAC000304
        • 049-ALL50182 1/8 in NPT Brass Plugs ( to plug the unused port on the intake )
        • 555-100932 #10 HOSE PRE-CUT 10-FEET ( for the turbo oil return )
        • 555-80548 NYLON VISE JAW PROTECTOR
        • 555-80559 AN WRNCH ST -04 TO-20 7PC
        • 555-100902 #4 HOSE PRE-CUT 10-FEET ( for the turbo oil feed )
        • 1/4"NPT TO #4 FLARE (Corrected )
        • 555-82033 CUSHION CLAMPS 4AN (10)
        • 555-82038 CUSHION CLAMPS 10AN (10)
        • 555-15264 -10AN MALE WELD FITTING
        • 361-992910 FTG -10 AN CAP
        • 555-100181 #4 VITON O-RINGS (10)
        • 555-100184 #10 VITON O-RINGS (10)
        • 555-65012 FENDER COVER W/MAGNETS
        • 555-100912 #6 HOSE PRE-CUT 20-FEET ( for the coolant)
        • 555-100950 #16 HOSE PRE-CUT 3-FEET (for the BPV)
        • 555-82035 CUSHION CLAMPS 6AN (10)
        • 555-100182 #6 VITON O-RINGS (10)
        • 555-100003 #10 STR HOSE END
        • 555-100023 #10 90° HOSE END
        • 555-100001 #6 STR HOSE END
        • 555-100021 #6 90° HOSE END
        • 555-15974 #8 STAINLESS CLAMPS (4)
        • 555-60342 FTNGS 3/8"HOSE X 3/8"HOSE
        • 2X 4AN Hose Ends (Corrected - didn't order them but neeeeeddddd them for the turbo oil feed)
        • Various Silicone hose bends ( 45/90 deg)
        • Banjo connector for the turbo oil feeder ( could have gone straight AN to flare but the location is so close to the exhaust Manifold i just felt banjo is better - gets it away from the manifold quick )
        • Long Banjo for one of the Water Ports ( the other is already that way..)
      • Exhaust Manifold to Turbo Gasket
      • Turbo to Down pipe Gasket
  • Engine Management
    • AEM FIC ( Tripoint fix for Mazda)
    • ScanXL Professional - Logging and tuning software, is free and connects up to the PLX DM-100 ( Purchased )
  • Engine/rotating assembly & Transmission:

  • Mazda 3 Duratec 2.3L (NEW)

  • CP Pistons 9.7 - (SC7520)
  • Eagle/GPWerks 2.3L Rods – CRS6094F3D
  • Ranger 2.3L Crankshaft – KK3456
  • Pinned Bearings and Thrust – KK3531 & KK3481
  • ARP Main Studs – 218.5402
  • ARP Head Studs – 218-4702
  • ARP Main Crank Bolt – 251-2801
  • Diamond Washers –
  • BSD Tig Welded
  • Ms oil pump,
  • Pistons, rods and crank balanced

  • KrankVent mini ( Purchased )
  • CORKSPORT Oil Catch Can ( ( Purchased )
  • ARP studs, bolts and misc. (not part of the short block package) ,
  • OBX silicone radiator hoses ( Purchased )
  • jbr Passenger Side Motor Mount 70a Durometer ( Purchased )
  • jbr Transmission Side Motor Mount 70a Durometer (MZ3MS3TMM70) (Purchased)
  • jbr rear Motor Mount 70a Durometer (Installed for a while and luv it)
  • 2005/6 TB ( Purchased )
  • Siemens DEKA IV ( DEKA 4 ) Mototron 60lb/hour High Impedance Injectors ( Long Style ) with USCAR EV6 Connector
  • Timing Chain ( L30512201) - While the engine is out just putting a new chain on...
  • Valve train Stem seals - , I suspect i need them all replaced so might as well do it (LF01101F5)
  • Godspeed Intake
  • Holley 112-560 IAC Block-Off Plate for the godspeed
  • FIC Harness
    • 2X male 12 PIN DTM Connectors
    • 2X female 12 PIN DTM Connectors
    • 1X crimp on wire connector
    • Glue / Silicone to seal FI/C side on the harness
  • Transmission
    • 2009 ms3 6 speed - Ms3 2009 60miles ( Purchased )
    • MS3 slave cylinder ( Purchased )
    • MS3 Shifter cables ( Purchased )
    • TWM short Shift assembly - new ( Purchased )
    • ACT Street Clutch Kit Spring Centered (6 Puck Sprung) w/ Prolite Flywheel: 2.3L MZR DISI - new ( hove no idea whether or not the flywheel is any good, it comes along with the package) - ( Purchased )
    • Axles = MS3 Passenger and drivers sides - ms3 40 & 60k miles on them ( Purchased )
    • engine Mount Brackets No 4 and 1 (PN: B37F39080A, CC3139010A - received and test fitted aok)
    • Axle seals
    • Transmission Oil
    • POR-15 - Engine Pint Kit Silver - LOL an indulgence but seeings I have the transmission out ill paint the fraking thing.. will make me go faster
    • Bolts and stuff -
      • 3X 99796-1440 ( Bolts - Rear Mount - New - received)
      • 2X 9wabd1211 ( Nuts - Transmission Bracket- New - received and test fitted aok)
      • 1X 99784-0235 ( Bolt - Transmission Bracket - New - received)
      • 3X 9ya16a001 ( Bolt - Axle - received and got 3 to many)
      • 6x Fly wheel Bolts - MZ3 2006 PN LF0111511 - ARP 251-2802. M12 x 1 UHL .990 6 in a pack NOTE: the MS and MZ 3 Bolts are the same but the bolt heads are different
      • 1x Pilot bearing : act provided
      • Bell Housing bolts
        • 9YA021024A X 8 - New - received
        • 9YA021041A X 1 -New - received
        • 9YA021027 X 1 -New - received
      • Driveshaft Seals
        • Divers/Left Side: A60127238 -New - received
        • Passenger/right Side: A60227238 -New - received
      • 6x Clutch casing bolt... MZ3 2006 PN 9XG02426S -New - received
  • Gauges & Sensors ( Purchased )

  • GAUGES :
    • PLX DM 100 - allows
      • up to four sensors to be displayed, monitored at the same time and
      • Logging via USB
      • OBD II integration and sensor readouts
      • 4 alarm points
    • PLX DM 6 - allows
      • one sensor to be displayed at a time
      • toggle between 2 (or 3) sensors
      • 2 alarm points
    • PLX DM-USB = USB interface to PC/Laptop for logging
    • Knocklink - monitors for knock
    • Sensors
    • Cases
      • Gauges
        • Vent gauge pod ( modified)
        • CP-E gauge pod
      • PLX Sensors ( & connections) ( Purchased )
        • Polycase enclosure WC-24F ( to house the PLX sensor modules in the engine bay)
        • Deutsch Connectors ( Male female Connectors for the external loom)
        • cables to Go 40603 Velocity M/M Stereo Audio Cable 12 Feet, Blue (connect to the PLX sensor modules in the engine bay)
        • prosport gauges water temp radiator hose adapter
  • Brakes
    • MS3 front brake calipers ( sourced from a 2007 MS - Purchased)
    • MS3 front brake brackets ( sourced from a 2007 MS - Purchased)
    • HPS pads ( To to Purchased )
    • Mazda OEM MS3 Rotors ( not intrested in slotted or cross drilled - To be purchased )
    • Rear setup will remain as is = basically stock + HPS
  • Exhaust -
    • Trubendz ( Purchased)
      • Size: 3" 304 Stainless Steel
      • Cat: Magnaflow hi flow
      • Muffler: Borla
    • DEI Heat wrap
    • DEI Turbo Blanket (T26/28)
    • MS3 Manifold ( requires EGT bung)
    • MS3 Gaskets
    • ATP Down pipe ( Long - requires modification)
  • Fuel Supply
    • DW 65c Fuel Pump ( in tank)
    • AEM Fuel Pressure regulator ( Generic)
    • 555-10564 F/PUMP HARNESS & RELAY
    • Fittings and supplies for fuel lines
      • 1 X 361-100034 10 Ft. Pc. 3/8 O.D. Alum.
      • 1 X 361-165106 FTG AL TBE ADP -6 FEM 3/8
      • 1 X 361-924106 6 45 DEGREE
      • 2 X 555-110051 #6 STR PUSH LOC BLACK
      • 2 X 361-AT983306 Ano-Tuff -6 90 Deg. Bulkh
      • 4 X 555-100565 #6 POLY REPL WASHERS (2)
      • 3 X 555-100202 #6 FLARE UNION
      • 4 X 555-100001 #6 STR HOSE END
      • 2 X 555-100021 #6 90? HOSE END
      • 2 X 555-100914 #6 HOSE PRE-CUT 20-FEET
      • 4 X 361-AT592406 Ano-Tuff -6 Bulkhead Nut
  • Miscellaneous : ( Purchased )

  • 2X Add-A-Circuit ( fused power to the sensors and gauges and whatever else )
  • Jegs FlexBraid for cable runs ( LOVE this stuff, completely the best cable wrap stuff i have ever used)
  • 6 inch 3.5mm Male right angle to3.5mm Male Stereo jacks... used to wire up the PLX sensors and replace the stock connectors that just work well in my configuration (Not enough Space)
  • Bolt remover kit
  • Torx socket set
  • Torque wrench adapter
*** Not Required but Purchased
  • Exedy Stage 2 Clutch ( Purchased )
  • TRZ Transmission Mount - Mazda3 ( Purchased but MIA and refunded)
  • 3X 9ya16a001 ( Bolt - Axle - received and got 3 to many)

5,028 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Version 1.1

IC pipe's


Turbo Fittings



PLX Power & Serial

Boost Block

FI/C Harness


  • Engine, Transmission & Axle
    • Phase 1 - Prep
      • Secure all bolts and clutch stuff - Done
      • Secure and prep transmission - Done
      • Finalize and order Engine - done
      • Agree install date with Garage
    • Phase 2 - Install
      • Benchmark ( Underway )
      • Remove all after market stuff
      • Bag and confirm all supplies - done
      • Load all into car and deliver to garage
      • Test Drive ( LOL - I Hope )
  • Turbo / Tune​
    • Phase 1 Install
      • Benchmark
      • FIC,​
      • injectors,​
      • IC and​
      • sensors ( modules and oil, temp , fuel , boost )will also wire up the AFR PLX output to the FI/C auxiliary input ( not sure if it helps the FI/C in any way but for logging the information will be there )​
      • boost block and all that goes with it​
      • Benchmark - specifically load, MAF, MAP, LTF, STF REV and engine load - OBDII stuff really​
      Phase 2 Install
      • Return Fuel system Install
      Phase 3 Install
      • Turbo
      • EGT and AFR sensors​
      • Remaining pipes​
      • top to bottom confirmation of all connector,bolts etc and make safe ( loose or hanging wires )​
      Phase 4 Install
      • FI/C tune ( not a dyno, just enough to keep her going for now)
      • Benchmark
      • Tidy up = the engine bay will be a mess... once all is settled and working need to tidy up all​

Other Tech stuff - Measurements

  • stock pressure sensor size is 1/4" npt
  • Trubenz flange = 3.9x4.9 HxW and bolts are 4.1" apart on center​
  • 4an oil feed to the turbo... Maybe from the stock pressure sensor location would need a 1/4npt to 4an converter...
  • 10an oil return from the turbo to the oil pan...​
  • welded 10 an bung ( port) and cap ( cuz the turbo wont be installed day 1​
  • Wastgate boost line size = 3/16” or ¼” = Never to be connected to the boost/vac line... it should connect to the charge pipe ( the turbo outlet pipe ( filter -> Inlet Pipe -> Turbo -> Charge Pipe -> FMIC -> tb feeder pipe -> TB))
  • plx and fic boost port size 4 mm = 5/32​
  • BPV/HKS boost port size = 4 mm = 5/32

  • BPV/HKS adapter port Size = 1"
  • Boost source = Brake Booster
  • Break boost line size = 3/8"
  • IC tubing = OD is 2.5" ID 2.4x​
  • Silicone joiners - 2.5"​
  • Intake hose adapter for oil catch can and BPV = OD about 25mm barbed / ID 21mm​
  • CS Catch can port sizes = 10mm

  • Heater hose 1 OD/ID = 1"/.75"
  • Heater hose 2 OD/ID = 1"/.75"
  • Fuel line size = ?
  • torque specs + other stuff :
    EGT bung size = 1/8 NPT​

5,028 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Issues / Challenges
  • Open
    • Routing of tubes from FMIC to TB
  • Closed
    • Tripoint Intake will not clear the Speed transmission
    • Getting a replacement Valve Train - freaking impossible - Found one on ebay
    • Positioning of the oil relocation mount
Worth Reading

Good palces to get used stuff =
  • eBay
  • Jegs
  • ( great for simple diagrams and part Numbers)
  • ( great for detailed diagrams and part Numbers)
  • ( basic but has had everything I am looking for )
Random stuff
  • MZ3 is NOT a Honda; no more discussion required!
  • People have a tendency to call the turbo kit that they are selling a Tripoint... this is more than a little misleading as most are not and the majority are pieced together replicas - - ask questions if some one tells you out of the gate its a Tripoint - personally if im told its product A and it aint it is not a good starting point for a transaction
  • Should = Not sure... if some one you trust says ( or other vouch for) "Yea that should work" then go with it... if someone trying to sell you something, and u don’t know them, says the same its time to head for the hills - I know its paranoid
  • When purchasing go to the persons build threads and historic questions/sales... their conversations should match the various parts for what you are buying... if they don’t ask why
  • If you are not a little concerned about the complexity of the install and the number of moving parts to the project you probably need to take a step back lol ... as you dont have a grasp of the facts
  • MZ3 modding (F/I) is fairly specialized
  • not many people doing it and a good degree of creativity and peer consultation is required
  • not may vendors out there specific to the MZ3
  • learn how to crimp and solder
  • Solder melts when wet!
  • Don't try to explain what your doing to others who don't get it... Its a big waist of time
  • Invest in good ( manly scented) hand cream!
  • Unless u are super great at F/I don't go for supercharger until ( if ever ) a kit comes out
  • lots of people are helpful, never accept one opinion on important items seek multiple ( risks really annoying people I know) opinions and then make you're mind up...
  • the build is on you... Anything goes wrong its your fault.... HaHa the buck stops here
  • The Devil is in the Detail
  • Adding a transmission to a build doubles the work!
  • Figuring out what to go into the engine is easy when compared to finding a place to do the work!
  • Service Manuals and Vendor Parts Pictures are invaluable = Be prepared to read the service manual and lots of tech diagrams - Reading the mazda service manual is a pia and very hard to find anything but when coupled with online vendor site diagrams it works out well
  • Not everything is clear cut and when presented with such its tricky = follow ur gut
  • Dont get into arguments, some people are just out to have a fight, the good guys will disagree with you explain their position and move on
  • everything is very simple on its own, when u put it all together thats when it becomes tricky....
  • Vendors do there best most of the time...
  • Read the torque specs over and over again and dont assume anything
  • Have a broken bolt remover handy... left handed drill bit or a kit the is designed to remove headless bolts....
  • Have a drill that can go in reverse handy
The Engine

The Transmission

The Turbo

The Exhaust Manifold

From Turbo to Tip

The MZ3 2005 Throttle body

The engine Mounts

PLX Modules

The PLX Gauges


10,875 Posts
@orangevirus... Yea, agreed its is probably the biggest weakness in the build but my budget will not stretch to cover the transmission ( ive tried) ...

From what I understand ( and read ) the transmission will hold up ok as long as I dont boost any more than the Tripoint kit does "out of the box" and I dont abuse it..... That said nothing is guaranteed ....

I do think it will be the #1 upgrade once this is done ( hiboost gears, cryo and or Ms transmission swap)

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Trans will be fine, as long as you don't beat the fuck out of it... I had a solid 4 years before any issues.

sent via TapaTalk2

5,028 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Just got an email from PLX saying that they are upgrading the DM100 to a touch version and what looks like a bigger screen!

Seriously! I only just ordered it and have not even gotten the new old one yet! Ahhhhhhhhhhh.....

Have written to them to exchange.. they should have told me .... I mean I ordered over the weekend!

Edit 1-18-13 - ( Moving info down to make space )
@orangevirus... Yea, agreed its is probably the biggest weakness in the build but my budget will not stretch to cover the transmission ( ive tried) ...

From what I understand ( and read ) the transmission will hold up ok as long as I dont boost any more than the Tripoint kit does "out of the box" and I dont abuse it..... That said nothing is guaranteed ....

I do think it will be the #1 upgrade once this is done ( hiboost gears, cryo and or Ms transmission swap)

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5,028 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Well... The DM100 arrived.... Opened it up and decided to hold on to it... Though a touch screen sounds cool it will get dirty quick + may be a little hard to navigate especially when driving vs the old up down left right toggle switch....

Fired up the dm 100 and installed it ( into an air vent pod) and it looks good..... The pod install was super easy and it will allow, when the dm6 arrives, the routing of all wiring thru the vent and then into the dash... No exposed wires ....

Will have to figure out where to put the sensor/display module ( its under the drivers seat right now ) .... I think ill mount the module in the dash and extend the USB laptop port to somewhere accessable or maybe into the glove box.... And ill need to hardwire the power as well... Running of the lighter socket right now

Had read, not here, a number of complaints about the interface .... To be honest the user interface is not slick but its functional and is fit to purpose ( use it now and then to add remove and change things ) .... So im happy...

Looking forward to getting the dm6 and sensors so I can wire it all up... route and secure.... Haha then im going to sit in the car ( engine off ) and make race car.noises .... Lol

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5,028 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Ok.. So im going to place all of the sensor modules into the engine bay, with the exception of the OBDII/DM100..

have a few questions/need to find out

1. The analog output from the Bosch LSU 4.2 wideband sensor goes to the afr sensor module which can output narrow and wideband onto the ecu, should I just have one wideband and feed on the wideband output from the module to the ecu or should I run with 2 widebands?
2. The 2006, afr is wideband not narrow... Correct?
3. even if u can run the wideband output from the sensor module to the ecu would that be such a good idea? Eg if the module looses power or fails the ecu looses wideband readings!
4. Where is the best position to place the coolant temp sensor ? ( hose going to the radiator or hose comming from the radiator)
5 . Should I tap a 12v source in the engine bay or wire to the battery and use a relay ( ignition on / circuit closed) + fuse ?

1 = 2 widebands
2 = im fairly sure 2006 are running wide... But it doent matter as ill run both
3 = dont know. Seem to remember some one doing this and there wasnt a big + or -
4 = I believe out hose from the radiator
5 = lol both will work will
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5,028 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
SENSOR MODULES/CASES & Gauges: Figured out the power/communications wiring and bench tested the DM-6, afr, temp, pressure and boost modules... All work and setup/navigation of/between all is fairly straight forward...

Will place the DM-6 in the vent pod ( cuz I dont think it will have a day time illumimation issue) and the DM-100 recessed into the dash pod ( direct sunlight makes it unreadable + this assumes I can run the connection neatly thru the side window demist vent...)

Need to figure out where to house the modules... initial thought was above the exhaust downpipe (up against the firewall) but once the turbo is on it may get a little hot there so maybe behind the battery box ( downside is accessibility .... )

Powering the setup... Have placed a 5 amp fuse on the loom... I may plumb for the cigarette lighter tap in fact thats probably what im going to do but if for what ever reason the fuse blows I loose everything.... Could also run from the battery and put relay in ( a better approach but a little more work... ) + am going to add a led to the loom after the fuse to indicate the darn things are energized as the modules dont have any power indicators....

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5,028 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
GAUGES: Hmmm... Fitting the dm100 into place tonight and started to get screen corruption! Intermittent at first but eventually the screen became unuseable...

Restarted the unit a few times , the splash screen was perfect but after that snow...

Rechecked all of the connections and noticed that if I giggled the video cable the display would get better, brighten then return to snow... and that the whole connector ( specifically the female end in the module ) seemed to move...

Figued it could be a bad cable, bad module or a bad earth then noticed that the two bolts, that the display connector screws into, were very loose ( could spin them by hand...) - tightened them up with a needle nose pliers, reconnected everything, powered it up and presto ... back in business - no snow and full functional again....

Also discovered that the transmit / receive cables used to connect the modules are actually mini stereo jacked and wired... lol... Makes life a little less complicated to be able to use readily available cables - - and a little cheaper ( cable run from the cabin to the engine bay)

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5,028 Posts
Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
GAUGES: Mounted gauges and roughed in power/ data.... figured out how to mount the modules ( passenger side up against firewall..) in the engine bay....

A few pics of the modules...

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1,222 Posts
hey when you get tot the stage of buying a turbo, just remember I am selling my tripoint turbo kit and it comes with everything, aem fic, turbo, everything for 3200 :p, injectors, intake manifold everything :p

5,028 Posts
Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
SENSOR MODULES/CASES: Opened up the temperature sensor module and I think i'm going to have to do some minor modifications to them...

Primarily, the modules don't have any mount points making it a little dificult to mount them securely inside the engine bay... it seems like a fairly basic thing! That said it looks like each module is fairly roomy inside enough to accommodate 2 holes (in the top ) to accommodate mounting bolts..

Secondarily, the PCB's are mounted very close to the body of the case and are unshielded! Which really surprised me as a very small piece of debris or even a jolt could cause a short... To resolve Im going to place a thin piece of plastic into each module between the back of the PCB and the case....

Another thing to note is that the modules are not water proof or even resistant... Will probably need some sort of splash shield covering the face plates which could do double duty to keep the various cables installed...

Am going to try to mount the dm100 module under the drivers side dash failing that under the drivers seat..

Power , thought about this a little more and will not tapp other sources to drive the setup ... will use a relay and direct connect to the battery - just need to find a power source that will allow a relay to operate...

PS The DM6 is very nice in operation, easy to use, clear and looks good :)

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5,028 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
@epic... Fair point, was / am hoping to keep the sensors in the engine bay though... Get the power and communications working once and any additions become a piece of cake after that... No more cables in and out of the cabin to run.. It may be impractical we will see.... Lol probably when one of the modules gets wet and blows hahaha

On the power front I think ill get one of those "add a circuit" fuse holders... a little more straight forward, I can take the inline fuses out and don't need a relay... No tapping, will energize on ignition "on", wont loose power if another fuse goes = way neater + less complex... All for that ;)

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