Mazda3 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
hello, i just picked up a used 2006 mazda 3 with the 2.3l engine. I am going to just drive it this winter how it is just to get a feel for it and see if I can notice any issues and then early next year when the weather gets better, I am planning to do all the maintenance needed for 100,000 miles. The reason I want to do it all at once rather then one by one is because I want and need this car to be reliable so I dont have time for it to break down etc etc. the past owner doesnt really know about the maintnenace info since hes not a car guy at all. I checked the car fax for my vehicle and it seems like it recently he had the automatic transmission serviced which i assume means new fluid and filter, it got new power steering, new brake fluid and new brakes, new air filter. So i know i will be fine for all the fluids. I did some short research and it seems like I will probably have to change the following but looking for feedback or if im missing anything

(just changed both belts and the tensioner this weekend)
1. Spark plugs and wires? or just the plugs? - have to check them tho because maybe they were changed in the past 1-2 years
2. Water pump and new coolant?
3. i believe the alternator is making a whine so i will have to check that before i decide to replace it
4. all the o2 sensors?
5. clean the maf/throttle body
6. fuel filter?
7. something about a thermostat? what is that?


let me know if i am missing anything or if any of the top arent necessary mainteance

ill probably order all of the stuff from rockauto, any recommendations for brands?

thx a ton!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Carfax means nothing much to me anymore. My car had a Carfax and there were a lot of things not actually done or reported. Check all your fluids, especially that auto transmission fluid if automatic.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Carfax means nothing much to me anymore. My car had a Carfax and there were a lot of things not actually done or reported. Check all your fluids, especially that auto transmission fluid if automatic.
thanks yeh I did check the fluids that were apparently done. There all fresh and clean.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,821 Posts
The official maintenance schedule is here: https://www.mazdausa.com/siteassets...a3-4door/2006-mazda3-maintenance-schedule.pdf

1: Spark plug interval on these cars is every 75K miles. If they haven't already been changed then they should be done. Coil boots should also be done at the same time.
2: Leave the water pump alone unless it's bad. Service interval for coolant is every 60K or 120K miles depending on the coolant type.
4: Leave them alone unless they have failed.
5: Most likely, leave them alone unless they are causing an issue.
6: There is no replaceable fuel filter on these cars.
7: You could replace it if you are already changing the coolant but you can safely leave it alone unless its failing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
The official maintenance schedule is here: https://www.mazdausa.com/siteassets...a3-4door/2006-mazda3-maintenance-schedule.pdf

1: Spark plug interval on these cars is every 75K miles. It they haven't already been changed then they should be done. Coil boots should also be done at the same time.
2: Leave the water pump alone unless it's bad. Service interval for coolant is every 60K or 120K miles depending on the coolant type.
4: Leave them alone unless they have failed.
5: Most likely, leave them alone unless they are causing an issue.
6: There is no replaceable fuel filter on these cars.
7: You could replace it if you are already changing the coolant but you can safely leave it alone unless its failing.

thanks a ton! does everyone usually change the coil boots ? i thought it was just a failing thing while plugs was maintenance but i could be wrong
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,821 Posts
thanks a ton! does everyone usually change the coil boots ? i thought it was just a failing thing while plugs was maintenance but i could be wrong
I find that on most cars the coil boots are starting to get hard and prone to cracking by the time the plugs are due to be changed. You can see this if you pinch the end of the boot where it slips over the spark plug, it will turn white and/or you will see cracks start to form if they are bad.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I find that on most cars the coil boots are starting to get hard and prone to cracking by the time the plugs are due to be changed. You can see this if you pinch the end of the boot where it slips over the spark plug, it will turn white and/or you will see cracks start to form if they are bad.
Thx bro I assume we talking about these. If so which brand would you recommend ?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,821 Posts
You can't really go wrong with any of those. Get the cheapest ones. NGK is the brand of the OE spark plugs anyway.
 

·
Registered
2012 Mazda 3 GX MT5
Joined
·
53 Posts
Brake Fluid every 2 years

The fuel filter on the mazda 3 model is over the tank, all you need to do is remove the back seat, and find a cap withe the lines conection, remove a plastic cover, and you see the filter is small, thats all, you dont need to remove the tank and also you dont need to touch the pump
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,821 Posts
Brake Fluid every 2 years

The fuel filter on the mazda 3 model is over the tank, all you need to do is remove the back seat, and find a cap withe the lines conection, remove a plastic cover, and you see the filter is small, thats all, you dont need to remove the tank and also you dont need to touch the pump
Nobody does brake fluid every 2 years unless they are seriously OCD. It probably should be done every 5-10 years but it isn't a common thing.

Do you have a picture of this fuel filter? There is no fuel filter listed for a 2006 Mazda 3 2.3L.
 

·
Registered
2012 Mazda 3 GX MT5
Joined
·
53 Posts
2006 Mazda 3 2.3L.
this a fuel filter on 2oo6 sp 2.3 ... same location as on my 2012 2.0L .
Sorry sent you wrong description / location ...the one thru the back seat on top of tank is something else... my bad

As for the brake fluid it should be replaced every 24 months or 25K miles as per your owners manual scheduled maintenance.
If you want to go longer ...then get it tested every 2yrs ... If you track the car its every year.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
hello, i just picked up a used 2006 mazda 3 with the 2.3l engine. I am going to just drive it this winter how it is just to get a feel for it and see if I can notice any issues and then early next year when the weather gets better, I am planning to do all the maintenance needed for 100,000 miles. The reason I want to do it all at once rather then one by one is because I want and need this car to be reliable so I dont have time for it to break down etc etc. the past owner doesnt really know about the maintnenace info since hes not a car guy at all. I checked the car fax for my vehicle and it seems like it recently he had the automatic transmission serviced which i assume means new fluid and filter, it got new power steering, new brake fluid and new brakes, new air filter. So i know i will be fine for all the fluids. I did some short research and it seems like I will probably have to change the following but looking for feedback or if im missing anything

(just changed both belts and the tensioner this weekend)
1. Spark plugs and wires? or just the plugs? - have to check them tho because maybe they were changed in the past 1-2 years
2. Water pump and new coolant?
3. i believe the alternator is making a whine so i will have to check that before i decide to replace it
4. all the o2 sensors?
5. clean the maf/throttle body
6. fuel filter?
7. something about a thermostat? what is that?


let me know if i am missing anything or if any of the top arent necessary mainteance

ill probably order all of the stuff from rockauto, any recommendations for brands?

thx a ton!
Struts / Shocks - most overlooked on 3s due to stiff springs - did mine at about 125 - drove like new and restored ground clearance to OE spec
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,821 Posts
this a fuel filter on 2oo6 sp 2.3 ... same location as on my 2012 2.0L .
Sorry sent you wrong description / location ...the one thru the back seat on top of tank is something else... my bad

As for the brake fluid it should be replaced every 24 months or 25K miles as per your owners manual scheduled maintenance.
If you want to go longer ...then get it tested every 2yrs ... If you track the car its every year.
My 08 2.3L does not have this. From what I can gather, US market 3's do not have this.

I posted the maintenance schedule directly from Mazda's US website, brake fluid replacement is not listed. Neither is the fuel filter. https://www.mazdausa.com/siteassets...a3-4door/2006-mazda3-maintenance-schedule.pdf
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #16

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Struts / Shocks - most overlooked on 3s due to stiff springs - did mine at about 125 - drove like new and restored ground clearance to OE spec
any idea on when there actually due? i sadly just paid for an alignment so i really dont wanna change my shocks/struts yet ahah
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,821 Posts
any idea on when there actually due? i sadly just paid for an alignment so i really dont wanna change my shocks/struts yet ahah
If your car doesn't feel bouncy, shocks/struts aren't leaking, and you don't hear any strange noises then you are probably OK. You only need an alignment if you are replacing the front struts, the rear shocks don't require an alignment. In my experience, the rear shocks are somewhat prone to failure but they are cheap and easy to replace.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
any idea on when there actually due? i sadly just paid for an alignment so i really dont wanna change my shocks/struts yet ahah
If you got alignment with new tires , theres often a lifetime option snd or a grace period to get it checked again within 30-90 days free- check the contract -
On Struts : Shocks - dont skimp
- its dependent on your driving habits and environment , bad roads ? , do you frequently carry heavier loads of goods and or passengers ? drive at higher speeds ?. I can only say that based on my experience buying and selling used / news cars of all makes .. around 100k its time to replace the struts and shocks - On my current 2010 3 , I hit a pothole at 45k miles and blew the strut . Then just about 120k I decided to get new struts and shocks and did NOT notice any bouncing on the freeway at all yet after the struts came off they were useless , even the one i replaced at 45k . 3s are sprung so tight its even harder to notice . Heres why you should . 100k miles , odds are they are done or close which does several things , you stress the springs from not having good struts/shocks reducing their firmness, increasing premature metal fatigue ( sagging ) and the car does not handle as intended , which can be a safety issue , make turns sloppy and create improper tire wear. If you are waiting for a symptom like bouncing after hitting a bump ...its way way past due . I had none of those symptoms and BOTH front struts were totally useless , I did the rear shocks 2 weeks later in my driveway and noticed yet another level of handling improvment and confidence in my driving -and the cars ride height changed back to OE - Poor handing from a bad suspension can lead to accidents , bad tire wear and unpredictable reaction time if one side is far worse than the other , even with stability control . Suspension is not where you cut corners or try to get every last mile out of every part - you want to save $$ , dont fix dents or cosmetic stuff until LAST . Its good to have a wolf in sheeps clothing - Spend your $$$ on mechanical perfection - live with not looking perfect- car will reward you and last much much longer. You can always fix the paint , seats and other nick nacks that dont effect the cars lingevity or performance .Do It .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
hello, i just picked up a used 2006 mazda 3 with the 2.3l engine. I am going to just drive it this winter how it is just to get a feel for it and see if I can notice any issues and then early next year when the weather gets better, I am planning to do all the maintenance needed for 100,000 miles. The reason I want to do it all at once rather then one by one is because I want and need this car to be reliable so I dont have time for it to break down etc etc. the past owner doesnt really know about the maintnenace info since hes not a car guy at all. I checked the car fax for my vehicle and it seems like it recently he had the automatic transmission serviced which i assume means new fluid and filter, it got new power steering, new brake fluid and new brakes, new air filter. So i know i will be fine for all the fluids. I did some short research and it seems like I will probably have to change the following but looking for feedback or if im missing anything

(just changed both belts and the tensioner this weekend)
1. Spark plugs and wires? or just the plugs? - have to check them tho because maybe they were changed in the past 1-2 years
2. Water pump and new coolant?
3. i believe the alternator is making a whine so i will have to check that before i decide to replace it
4. all the o2 sensors?
5. clean the maf/throttle body
6. fuel filter?
7. something about a thermostat? what is that?


let me know if i am missing anything or if any of the top arent necessary mainteance

ill probably order all of the stuff from rockauto, any recommendations for brands?

thx a ton!
Check the battery - I change mine ( interstate ) every 3-4 years no matter what - Why ? because there are so many electronic things on cars these days , you need positive cranking / operating amps - but the #1 reason for regular battery replacement without any symptoms except time ...is taxing your alternator ...if your battery is getting weak and you are using lights , audio system , phone charging etc etc ....the alternator has to continually keep kicking on / off ....more and more as the battery only gets weaker and weaker ....like a cell phone - an alternator can last the life of the car ...if you do regular battery changes , needed or not - it pays off in the long run and you are far less likely to get stranded and need a " jump " ..
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top