[garyd9]

Having an alarm installed, and can't find two things:

('07 2.3L GT)

1) Where can I find a wire to turn on the rear defroster. Because it's timed (it turns itself off after 15-20 minutes when turned on manually) I assume it takes a simple pulse... however, I can't figure out what I need to wire into... The installer wants to do a pair of relays and a constant output for 10 minutes (timed), but seems like an excessive amount of labor, etc...

2) The installer used DEI's diagrams to hook up the door locks to unlock when the alarm is disarmed. What's strange is that the drivers door unlock first, and then a fraction of a second later the rest of the doors unlock. Is there any way to get this done as a dual stage unlock? So pressing 'disarm' on the FOB once will unlock the drivers door only, and pressing it a second time unlocks the rest of the doors? (Exactly the same way as the factory keyless works..)

Thanks
Gary

 

[Retrax]

I know it is here somewhere, but I can't remember where. If I remember right, a member with a compustar remote starter was going to hook up a pulse to turn it on. Try searching under defroster and compustar. Wish I could remember more specifics, but they found the exact wire and how to get at it...

 

[zoomzoom485]

It's a pain in the a$$. The way to do this is called driver's side priority. You have to use the aux button or second unlock output for second unlock. You need to go into the driver's door and catch the motor's unlock wire. This will be a five wire application. This way when you press unlock the first time it only unlocks the driver's door. The lock wire and either the second unlock or second channel output (with a relay) goes to the power lock's wire. This way when you press lock it locks all doors and when you press aux or 2nd unlock it unlocks all other doors. Lock is negative trigger thru an 1,000 ohm resistor. Unlock is a straight negative trigger. MUST use relays. Hope this helps!!! This wiring information is being provided free of charge on an "as is" basis, without any representation or warranty. It is your responsibility to verify any circuit before interfacing with it using a digital multimeter. Proper installation in every case is and remains the responsibility of the installer. I assume no liability or responsibility resulting from improper installation, even in reliance upon this information.

 

[garyd9]

[quote author=zoomzoom485 link=topic=69131.msg1198817#msg1198817 date=1171086371]
It's a pain in the a$$. [/quote]Okay, that might be too complicated for this installer. They finished the install last night, and I've discovered the following problems since then:

The LED doesn't work. At all.

Whenever I remote start the engine, and the engine is cold, the alarm triggers. Damn annoying. If I disarm, remote start, arm - all is well. If the car is well warmed up, it's also good. The 2-way fob doesn't reveal that the alarm is sounding, btw... and when I disarm, there aren't "extra" chirps. (I can't get a status from the LED as it doesn't work.) I'm starting to suspect bad wiring on the battery backup...

Another DEI question: What remote FOBs will work with the viper5900/python990 series? Are there any 1-way remotes that'll work? How about 2 way remotes that don't have the 1 mile range? Looking for a cheaper (and smaller) remote for my wife who doesn't need all the bells and whistles.

 

[zoomzoom485]

OK the LED is probably not plugged in. That particular alarm has an annoying delay compared to the previous Viper 791. I hate installing those because the remote takes forever to send and receive the signal. It is also possible that the remote has the paging feature turned off. Press and hold the little black button on the back until you hear a beep. Then press the star button, it should beep. Wait until you get two beeps. The try setting your alarm off. You have to wait a few seconds for your remote to receive. As far as the alarm triggering during remote start, that sounds like someone doesn't know what they are doing. That makes no sense to me. I have been installing for over 3 years now and i have never heard of that. I believe they don't have any secondary remotes yet for the SST. The only two-way remotes for that system are SST 1 mile range. Sorry! Hope everything gets ironed out!

 

[superebear]

gary what alarm did u have put in ?

 

[bossboy]

Sounds like either ....
1. you got a bum alarm,
or
2. your installer doesn't know what hes doing and its time to find another one

 

[garyd9]

[quote author=superebear link=topic=69131.msg1200419#msg1200419 date=1171177333]
gary what alarm did u have put in ?
[/quote]Python990 (aka Viper 5900)

 

[garyd9]

[quote author=zoomzoom485 link=topic=69131.msg1200398#msg1200398 date=1171176037]
OK the LED is probably not plugged in. [/quote]
The LED connection was loose. The person who installed the alarm Friday made several errors. Saturday when I went to have them corrected, I believe he was fired. I think the particular thing that REALLY pissed off the manager was that the installer didn't bother to install the hood pin. He also didn't test the shock sensor, and didn't bother to wire the factory disarm wire (which result in the factory alarm sounding whenever the remote start was used.) All this was corrected.

I also found a different shop that stocked replacement 7701 remotes (the generic part number for the different DEI SST LCD remotes) and picked up an extra for the wife for only $124.

 

[automaticman]

the doors unlocking in sequence for our cars seems to be kinda normal. Mine does the same thing. What is weird is that if I test teh wires by hand I can get the driver door to unlock, then hit the wire again and the passenger door unlocks. For some reason the pulse from the alarm is just long enough to trigger both doors.

As for the defroster, yes i am pretty sure there is a way to do it since the factory remote start does. I know it is a wire in the PJB, and I saw which wire it was when someone here posted the installation instructions for the factory remote start. Your Python alarm has a dedicated wire for turning on and off the defroster as well. My only question is that Im not sure if the wire needs to be pulsed once, or given a constant signal or what...

 

[garyd9]

I really need to go out and buy a multi-meter and start playing with the PJB...

 

[automaticman]

I would carefully research just what the function is of any wire you plan on probing - that is an expensive and easily damaged piece

 

[garyd9]

[quote author=AutoXer link=topic=69251.msg1201470#msg1201470 date=1171245291]
Yes, DEI alarms support priority unlock.
H1/3 White/Blue 200ma (-) channel 3 output
This output can be programmed for priority unlock.

Now, this output can also be programmed as a latched output. BUT, you can only use the 3rd channel output for one action, so you'd have to decide which is more important to you, priority unlock or a fancy turn on for the D+P. This can be combined with the dash switch, but diodes will be needed. (outlined in red in the above pic. If not using this method, just connect the switch directly to the relay pin)

If you pull the passenger kick panel, you'll see a few factory chassis grounds, use a ring connector and bolt it with one of them.

EDIT: BTW, The diagram does not follow excatly what i posted earlier...as now you mention you have a DEI alarm, so to make it easier, incase you decide to go with both options, i changed it up.[/quote]

I can't find the wire your talking about. Only things similar are: aux harness H2/1: light blue "(-)second unlock output", and door lock harness ?/1: light blue (+) lock (-) unlock output and door lock harness 3 (green) that's the same as 1 with reversed polarity.

I'm going to guess that your referring to h2/1...

How would the remote be programmed for this? Single "unlock" press to disarm and unlock ? and second unlock press to unlock the rest (which are on h2/1?)

 

[garyd9]

Okay... I have the following harnesses:

H1 (primary)

1 (red/white) 200ma channel 2 validity
2 (red) constant power in
3 (brown) siren out
4 n/a
5 (black) ground
6 (violet) + door trigger input zone 3
7 (blue) - multiplexed input zone4
8 (green) - door trigger input zone 3
9 (black/white) - 200ma dome supervision out
10 (white/blue) - remote start activation input
11 (white) +/- selectable light flash out
12 (orange) - 500mA armed out

H2 (aux)

1 (light blue) - second unlock output
2 (white/black) - chan 5 out
3 (violet/black) - chan 4 out
4 (green/white) - factory alarm rearm
5 (gray/black) - wait to start input
6 (light green/black) - factory alarm disarm

door lock harness

1 (light blue) +lock - unlock out
2 n/a
3 (green) same as 1, reversed polarities

Then there are 3 more harnesses related to the remote start and relay satellite, and the 2 pin horn harness (that has chan 6 output and -200mA horn)

Also, in the section for remote programming and alarm programming, I didn't see anything about priority unlock, etc.

Does the python990 not do what I want? (I know I could wire things so that I'm using an aux channel, but that'd surely confuse my wife...)

 

[autoxer]

OK, so it's been awhile since i worked with DEI stuff...lol

H2/1 sure sounds like the right one though. There must be an option in programming for the priority unlock feature...the manual online is just the useless owners manual

The older systems worked like this...press unlock once and the alarm disarms and the drivers door unlocks. Press unlock again within 15 seconds and all doors unlock.

FWIW, my doorlocks unlock and lock all at the same time, no delay.

 

[automaticman]

Seriously, you really don't want to deal with priority unlock. It will mean running wires through the molex plugs and grommets of each door and trying to interface with each factory actuator directly. Major PITA.

The door lock wires I used were the ones connected by the dealership for their own alarm, there may be a different set of wires that work the doors simultaneously like AutoXer's. You also might be able to get the doors to priority unlock using the factory system, but you will have to find a way to shorten the lock pulse to be less than the .8 second pulse it is now.

 

[garyd9]

Re: DEI alarms in Mazda3's: installers sharing wisdom

[quote author=automaticman link=topic=69131.msg1201992#msg1201992 date=1171267509]
Seriously, you really don't want to deal with priority unlock. It will mean running wires through the molex plugs and grommets of each door and trying to interface with each factory actuator directly. Major PITA.

The door lock wires I used were the ones connected by the dealership for their own alarm, there may be a different set of wires that work the doors simultaneously like AutoXer's. You also might be able to get the doors to priority unlock using the factory system, but you will have to find a way to shorten the lock pulse to be less than the .8 second pulse it is now.[/quote]

Would it be possible to have the primary unlock (driver door) be wired directly to the single driver door, and then the secondary unlock (the rest of the doors) be wired to the standard unlock wire already being used (which seems to be tied to the "unlock" button in the driver and passenger side doors?)

One thing I noticed messing with the programming on the alarm is that I can program the door unlock pulse to be either 0.4 or 0.8. I can also program it for either single pulse or double. Single pulse SEEMS to only unlock the drivers door. I wonder if there's some kind of circuit possible so that the primary unlock does a single pulse and secondary unlock does the double pulse. It'd be simple if I could just program the DEI alarm to unlock the drivers door with a single pulse and unlock everything else with a double...

(Note: When I type "primary" unlock, I'm referring to the desired behavior of only the driver door unlock, and "secondary" unlock refers to the behavior of unlocking all the doors.)

I can picture in my head what I want, and various possible ways to get it to happen, but I'm not familiar at all with 12v wiring schemes or with DEI alarms and their undocumented (or hidden documented) features. I'm also quite a bit out of date on wiring schemes in general. I still think of a relay as a electromagnet that closes (or opens) a physical switch.

Oh god... now that I'm reading the install booklet (that the installer REALLY didn't want to give me) I'm wondering if I could wire a relay to this "comfort closure" pin, and run a 12v wire up the a-pillar to my moonroof... and use it to close the moonroof when I turn off the alarm. It appears that it'll feed 200mA for 20 seconds whenever the alarm is armed. Would 20 seconds of power to that motor cause any damage if the moonroof was already closed? I had one installer quote me $200 for parts/labor to do this. They insisted I needed a DEI 530T for it. (I have a really bad habit of forgetting to close the moonroof when it's tilted open.)

This alarm thing is too much fun. Too many possibilities.

 

[autoxer]

[quote author=automaticman link=topic=69131.msg1201992#msg1201992 date=1171267509]
Seriously, you really don't want to deal with priority unlock. It will mean running wires through the molex plugs and grommets of each door and trying to interface with each factory actuator directly. Major PITA.

The door lock wires I used were the ones connected by the dealership for their own alarm, there may be a different set of wires that work the doors simultaneously like AutoXer's. You also might be able to get the doors to priority unlock using the factory system, but you will have to find a way to shorten the lock pulse to be less than the .8 second pulse it is now.
[/quote]

but it's a single wire system...this single wire has 3 different functions? I didn't feel the need for drivers door unlock, so i never persued it...but with the electronics on this car, doesn't suprise me...lol

Actually, running the wires through the molex plug isn't all that difficult. I ran wires in for my stereo...but maybe it's not for the casual DIYer.

 

[autoxer]

[quote author=garyd9 link=topic=69131.msg1202042#msg1202042 date=1171281396]
[quote author=automaticman link=topic=69131.msg1201992#msg1201992 date=1171267509]
Seriously, you really don't want to deal with priority unlock. It will mean running wires through the molex plugs and grommets of each door and trying to interface with each factory actuator directly. Major PITA.

The door lock wires I used were the ones connected by the dealership for their own alarm, there may be a different set of wires that work the doors simultaneously like AutoXer's. You also might be able to get the doors to priority unlock using the factory system, but you will have to find a way to shorten the lock pulse to be less than the .8 second pulse it is now.[/quote]

Would it be possible to have the primary unlock (driver door) be wired directly to the single driver door, and then the secondary unlock (the rest of the doors) be wired to the standard unlock wire already being used (which seems to be tied to the "unlock" button in the driver and passenger side doors?)

One thing I noticed messing with the programming on the alarm is that I can program the door unlock pulse to be either 0.4 or 0.8. I can also program it for either single pulse or double. Single pulse SEEMS to only unlock the drivers door. I wonder if there's some kind of circuit possible so that the primary unlock does a single pulse and secondary unlock does the double pulse. It'd be simple if I could just program the DEI alarm to unlock the drivers door with a single pulse and unlock everything else with a double...

(Note: When I type "primary" unlock, I'm referring to the desired behavior of only the driver door unlock, and "secondary" unlock refers to the behavior of unlocking all the doors.)

I can picture in my head what I want, and various possible ways to get it to happen, but I'm not familiar at all with 12v wiring schemes or with DEI alarms and their undocumented (or hidden documented) features. I'm also quite a bit out of date on wiring schemes in general. I still think of a relay as a electromagnet that closes (or opens) a physical switch.

Oh god... now that I'm reading the install booklet (that the installer REALLY didn't want to give me) I'm wondering if I could wire a relay to this "comfort closure" pin, and run a 12v wire up the a-pillar to my moonroof... and use it to close the moonroof when I turn off the alarm. It appears that it'll feed 200mA for 20 seconds whenever the alarm is armed. Would 20 seconds of power to that motor cause any damage if the moonroof was already closed? I had one installer quote me $200 for parts/labor to do this. They insisted I needed a DEI 530T for it. (I have a really bad habit of forgetting to close the moonroof when it's tilted open.)

This alarm thing is too much fun. Too many possibilities.


[/quote]

The Mazda3 uses a single wire for both lock and unlock. As per automaticman, the duration of the pulse determines drivers door first, then the others. If the alarm can be set to a 0.4 duration pulse, this may just work then. The question is, can the alarm be programmed individually for lock and unlock pulse durations? If not, not sure if the shorter 0.4 pulse will lock the doors...?

You are correct, a relay is esentially an electromagnetic switch.

If the *comfort closure* feature can be programmed for a shorter duration, it may work out fine. 20secs seems kinda long, especially if it's just to close it from a tilt position. Depends on if it has a resistance sensor to know if the moonroof is closed or not. If not, then i'd suggest the window module, but not the 530T, unless the 530T has changed, DEI has always recommeded the 529T (non automated window module) for sunroofs/moonroofs. (the window modules know when to stop, so they do not burn up the motors)

 

[garyd9]

[quote author=AutoXer link=topic=69131.msg1202358#msg1202358 date=1171297820]but it's a single wire system...this single wire has 3 different functions? I didn't feel the need for drivers door unlock, so i never persued it...but with the electronics on this car, doesn't suprise me...lol[/quote]

(A guess) Perhaps (-) single pulse is unlock driver door; (-) double pulse unlocks all doors; and (-) with 1k resistance is lock?

I need to confirm to myself that changing the unlock to single pulse will only unlock the drivers-side door. If so, it shouldn't be too difficult to do the priority unlock... just cut into the same wire that's already being used and send it a single pulse (with appropriate diodes to isolate.) IF that would work, I wouldn't even have to get into the driver-side door...

Of course, that leaves some other questions: How long of a pulse does the alarm send to the secondary unlock? Is it the same that's programmed for the primary unlock? If the primary unlock is programmed for double pulse, does it also send double pulse to the secondary unlock? (I realize that I'd probably have to use a relay to get enough power for this... or would I? I don't have my install book handy, so I'm not sure what amperage the secondary unlock has.) If the timing for the secondary is wrong, would there be an economical way to "correct" the timing? I'd image that this would involve timing chips and the like... Even still, could it be this simple?

Now I've actually managed to confuse myself. Does the secondary unlock from the alarm control the driver door, or "the rest of the doors"?

Okay.. a REALLY simple question: I have a DEI alarm, and am wiring the normal door _unlock_ only. (I know that locking has to have the 1k resister.) I found on AutoXer's FAQ that I want the green/red in the driver kick panel. Do I wire the alarm to relay, and then the relay just grounds the green/red when active?