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I'm replacing my rear pads and rotors on my 06 hatch. I was able to remove the calipers and everything, but I'm having problems with the piston. I'm using needle-nose pliers to turn the piston clockwise. It's turning but it's not compressing. What could be the problem?

EDIT: oh and the parking brake is not engaged.
 

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[quote author=dugger_8 link=topic=184849.msg3907685#msg3907685 date=1295034323]
Have you tried twisting and pushing at the same time?
[/quote]

Oh man, oh man. OHHHHHH man...

I beat you to it. :dance2:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah I tried twisting and pushing and it still won't compress. I'm probably not pushing hard enough. I'm just gonna rent the brake caliper tool from autozone. Maybe that'll help.
 

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[quote author=sittinginahatch link=topic=184849.msg3907944#msg3907944 date=1295043422]
Yeah I tried twisting and pushing and it still won't compress. I'm probably not pushing hard enough. I'm just gonna rent the brake caliper tool from autozone. Maybe that'll help.
[/quote]

You could try taking the cap off of the master cylinder and see if that's the problem. However, the tool is probably going to make everything easier anyway.
 

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I had same problem. I backed it out a little (as if it was to squeeze the pads) to make sure it was free and working then compressed it again after that pushing hard and twisting and it worked for me. I did it with needle nose pliers too.
 

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Yes, definitely use the brake caliper tool. I picked one up from harbor freight (luckily when I lived a mile from one) for $18. The tool itself fit the Mazda piston perfectly, but it also came with adapters for a bunch of other makes.

While it works the needle nose method is a huge PITA due to how hard you need to push in on the piston to make it retract. I had to use pliers on one of my calipers as it had worn all the way through the pad on one side and the piston was out so far that the tool wouldn't fit in until the piston had been compressed a little bit. It was a case of my parts came in but I had to chance to replace them until way after I should have.
 

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The needle nose pliers method works best AFTER you've given the piston a couple of sharp raps with a mid-sized hammer.
Both times I replaced rear pads(2 different cars) I worked myself into a lather before doing it. Then I gave it a good smack and used a large set of NNpliers and it twisted in ,nice and smooth.
 

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Please don't beat on your caliper pistons with hammers!
I design and test these brake systems. They are robust, but not against hammer blows!!

There is an internal spring that must be compressed before it will back off. Some cars have light enough springs that you can do it by hand (needle-nose).
But the Mazda3 springs is pretty stout....I couldn't do it by hand either.

Just about any autoparts store (Autozone, OReillys, Advance Auto) has a toolkit lending program. You don't actually rent it. You simply leave a deposit, then return when you are done.
Just pick up the kit when you pick up your brake pads, even if you aren't sure you'll need it. Better to return a kit you didn't need, than to need the kit while your brakes are taken apart.
 

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Please don't beat on your caliper pistons with hammers!
I design and test these brake systems. They are robust, but not against hammer blows!!

There is an internal spring that must be compressed before it will back off. Some cars have light enough springs that you can do it by hand (needle-nose).
But the Mazda3 springs is pretty stout....I couldn't do it by hand either.

Just about any autoparts store (Autozone, OReillys, Advance Auto) has a toolkit lending program. You don't actually rent it. You simply leave a deposit, then return when you are done.
Just pick up the kit when you pick up your brake pads, even if you aren't sure you'll need it. Better to return a kit you didn't need, than to need the kit while your brakes are taken apart.
 

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Thank you for that much needed info...do not really want to say how many tools I bent trying to push that rat bastid "in", it never occurred to me to try twisting ...duhhhhhhhhh
 
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