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Did you buy just one set of those speakers? You wouldn't necessarily need a four-channel amplifier if you only have one set. Even though you have a woofer and tweeter, they act as one "speaker set," and so only requite one amplifier channel per side If you bought a pair for the front doors and the rear doors, well then, you do want a four channel amp.

Regardless, for those speakers, you'd want an amplifier rated for between 50 and 150 watts per channel.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i was thought i might get another set of speakers for the rears but now that you mention it maybe ill just do a two channel in that case

thanks
ryan
 

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I'd look for a amp that does at least 75rms at 4 ohms since you speakers a rated at 125rms. Since you'll be looking for a 2 channel amp now, that should be pretty easy. If you can find one that does 100rms that's even better.
 

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RMS is 125, max is 250.

I say go with more power, maybe 150-200 rms/channel rating. This will really make those midbases shine.

I wouldn't recommend anything less than 100 per side with those comps. Can you do it with less power? Sure. Will it work? Sure. Will perfornance be optimal? Definitely not. Those comps are made to take lots of power.
 

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sweet thanks dude. Will a 10w6 subwoofer be able to be powered by a polkaudio momo amp that is @4 ohms 400rms, will this amp be able to push the sub?
 

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75 watts RMS should be more than adequate. I highly recommend just replacing the fronts, because it sounds better that way. Rear speakers are a lingering artifact from the past.

Make sure you get a acousticmat kit and deaden the doors as much as you can, because the door panels are extremely reverberant. This would be noticeable even with the lousy OEM drivers, so it would be even better yet with your new speakers.
 

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[quote author=geewhizbang link=topic=67517.msg1167890#msg1167890 date=1169697839]
75 watts RMS should be more than adequate. I highly recommend just replacing the fronts, because it sounds better that way. Rear speakers are a lingering artifact from the past.

Make sure you get a acousticmat kit and deaden the doors as much as you can, because the door panels are extremely reverberant. This would be noticeable even with the lousy OEM drivers, so it would be even better yet with your new speakers.
[/quote]

75 watts isn't going to be enough to drive these comps optimally. Like I said above, these comps like a lot of power. Sure 75 will work, but if you could find an amp with a little more power, you'll really be happy.

Oh and as far as using a 4 channel amp, if you want to bi-amp those comps you CAN do it. So a 4 channel would work. But in most cases people will choose to go competely active (no passive crossovers at all) if they are going to go with that type of setup.

According to JL Audio's recommended power chart, 400 watts rms would be perfect for the 10W6v2.
 

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[quote author=cryanbrandon link=topic=67517.msg1167855#msg1167855 date=1169696125]
sweet thanks dude. Will a 10w6 subwoofer be able to be powered by a polkaudio momo amp that is @4 ohms 400rms, will this amp be able to push the sub?
[/quote]

I have the 10W6v2 and I'm running 412Watts @2ohms it sounds great, distortion is almost non-existant, very tight and smooth.
As for those front speakers I'd try to find a 2 channel amp pushing as close to 125W rms as possible, more if you can afford it...not just for sound quality but for speaker safety.
As for sound deadening I'm running close to 1000W RMS and get no rattling whatsoever even at full volume but it would help for sound quality and lessoning road noise.


_3


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[quote author=cryanbrandon link=topic=67517.msg1167855#msg1167855 date=1169696125]
sweet thanks dude. Will a 10w6 subwoofer be able to be powered by a polkaudio momo amp that is @4 ohms 400rms, will this amp be able to push the sub?
[/quote]

I don't doubt that it will but just in case...... Does it go down to 2 ohms?

And my 75rms reccommendation was if you were on a tight budget. But it's looking like you have some money to spend. So I'd go with my latter suggest 100rms at a min.
 
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