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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey guys,
i didnt wanna spend all day looking thru the Ask a detailer thread,
but just a quick question..
I have a 8 month old Stormy Blue Mica mazda3, that didnt see a good wax job from me yet.

I want to do like a nice 3 step detailing... Not a hardcore 5 step or something..
From what i've read, I'd like to wash, clay bar, sealant, then wax...

Now, I've read that Poorboy's EX is great for blue cars. I really wanna bring out the metallic in it...
Would this be considered a Sealent, OR a final wax coat??? i can't figure that out.
And whats the different between the EX and the EX-P?

If it is a sealant, would the Natty's Blue be the best Wax for my color?

Let me know your opinions, suggestions.. I'd appreciate it!

ALSO, how long should i wait after the sealant, to apply wax... and could i drive it until that time??
 

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PB EX is a sealant with carnauba wax. The EX-P version is pure sealant.

Even though it has wax in it, you could still apply it, allow it to cure for 12-24 hours, and then top it with Natty's Blue. When I refer to curring, that means that you've applied the sealant, allowed it to haze, buffed it off, and now it's curing. You can drive it, just try not to drive it in the rain as the polymers need time to properly bond to the paint. The next day, wash the car, then apply Natty's Blue.

Have you already purchased the products, or those are just the products you are thinking about buying?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
hey thanks a lot!
No i did not buy them yet..just from reading through threads, it seemed that poorboys seemed like a good choice..and Labster mentioned that the EX looks sick with blue paint... Would you agree?
I have stormy blue mica, and i really wanna bring out that metallic mica thats in it..ya know?

Also, Since the EX does have wax in it, would it actually be ok to just clay bar, and then do the EX as final?? I don't mind doing the natty's as well..just asking if the 2 step is sufficiant..

I never clay bar'd either so it shoudl be interesting..haha
 

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You don't have to add Natty's. It's all personal preference. You might actually be better off with Natty's, b/c it tends to mute the metallic flakes.

I'm a big fan of Optimum products so I would suggest you look into their line-up, specifically Opti-Seal and Optimum Car Wax (OCW). Honestly, you can't go wrong with any one of their products. I use them all in my detailing business.

http://autogeek.net/optimum-wax.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
did you mean to say WITHOUT nattys? cause you said with..haha..
cause you said it "mutes" the metal flakes and im assuming thats bad...

thanks for the info about those products too... ill check em out..but i think ill give poorboys a shot first...
I'm hoping Pepboys sells them? havent looked yet..

How often would u suggest this procedure..every 3 months or so?? I'm excited to get her looking nice for spring..

with the EX, i could probably go thru alot of washings and stuff huh without that fading too quickly?
Is it safe to do like a meguiars quick detailing job after every other wash or so.. that should protect longer im assuming...
 

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Ooops! Yes, I meant you could use EX withOUT adding Natty's Blue. Muting flakes is a personal preference. I like Natty's Blue for colors like black, red, etc...colors w/o flake.

You won't find Poorboy's in any stores. They are a boutique brand, just like Optimum. If you buy from AutoGeek.net, you can save 10% + free shipping on orders over $95 if you use coupon code "Spring09". The coupon is good until 03-15-2009. If you don't want to order that much, sign up for their online forum and they will send you a discount coupon for 10% off any order.

I tell people to do a complete detail twice a year (spring and fall). This means, wash/clay/polish/seal and/or wax. Wash weekly or bi-weekly. Re-apply your sealant or wax every 2-3 months. Just know that sealants need to be applied to either a clean surface, or over another sealant. They won't bond over a wax. So if you add a wax on your sealant base, don't come back later with a sealant unless you're going to clay and/or polish away the sealant base.

Another option would be 2 coats of EX, 24 hours apart. That's probably the easiest/cheapest route if you want to go with PB's. Since it's a sealant and wax in one formulation, there's no issues with additional layers.

If you want to buy something at a parts store, NXT 2.0 is good. Anything from Mother's is good. If you have a Carquest, Duragloss products are good, specifically DG 105 (they call it a polish, but it's a sealant) & DG 951 (spray sealant that works great after a wash).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
hmm alright man sounds good!
i appreciate all the info! really.

hey when you say, clay, then polish, before sealant..

what exactly is considered, "polishing"... and what products would i use for that..
is that something that NEEDS to be done after claybar??
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
and yea i was kinda hoping to do this this weekend..since its gonna be like mid 50's....

i didnt wanna have to wait to order poorboys... hmm..

what would be your best choice for polish, sealant or sealant with wax...from an autozone or pepboys??

and something that wouldn't mute the metallic flake as you say....
 

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[quote author=mshu7 link=topic=138827.msg2992380#msg2992380 date=1236961037]
I tell people to do a complete detail twice a year (spring and fall). This means, wash/clay/polish/seal and/or wax. Wash weekly or bi-weekly. Re-apply your sealant or wax every 2-3 months. Just know that sealants need to be applied to either a clean surface, or over another sealant. They won't bond over a wax. So if you add a wax on your sealant base, don't come back later with a sealant unless you're going to clay and/or polish away the sealant base.
[/quote]

My car has only been waxed once, just a single coat last fall. What would I need to do to prepare it now for applying a sealant? I picked up a Porter Cable kit from autopia over the winter so I have that going for me...
 

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latham83 - No problem. Always glad to help. Polishing just means enhancing the shine with some sort of polish. Most consumer polishes will only fill in swirls which means they will come back. Most, not all, professional polishes have different levels of abrasives. These abrasives aid in the removal of swirls, scratches, etc. If you want to polish your vehicle, pick up the new Meguiar's Ultimate Compound (don't be scared of the word compound with this product) or Meguiar's ScratchX 2.0. Just follow the directions on the bottles. UC & ScratchX 2.0 both have a small amount of abrasives so you'll be able to remove *some* swirls with it. UC is more aggressive than ScratchX 2.0 though. Polishing is always done after claying.

As far as products you can pick up locally, I'd stick with Meguiar's, Mothers, or Duragloss. I can't really say what wax/sealant will or won't mute flakes because I don't ever use the consumer-level offerings.

The best piece of advice I can give you though is: 90% of the final look comes from the prep work before the wax or sealant. If you want it to look it's best, give it the proper prep work (wash, clay, polish). If you do that, any wax or sealant should look good on the paint.


halo0 - Same stuff applies for you, except you have the benefit of having a PC. This will allow you to do some true polishing (by machine vs. by hand) which will make the paint look really good. Again, same process applies:

1 - Wash
2 - Clay
3 - Polish (optional)
4 - Sealant and/or wax
5 - Maintain (weekly or bi-weekly washes)

Do that twice a year, and re-wax every 2-3 months and your car will always look great!
 

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[quote author=halo0 link=topic=138827.msg2993329#msg2993329 date=1236991840]
So the clay bar will remove the remaining wax on my car?
[/quote]

Yep!
 
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