Mazda3 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

so the last three times i've gone to fill up my gas tank my car will not start afterwards.

To get it to start I have to press down on the gas pedal and keep the engine reving at about 2000 for about 5 seconds and then i can let go and the car will idle right.

This ONLY happens after I fill up and only recently (the last 3 times)

The weather here is kind of cold (about 20F)

I have a cold air intake (f2), but I've had it for about 5 months and this problem is very new which leads me to think that it is not part of the problem.

Does anyone have any ideas? or should I just be taking this to the dealer and see if it's covered under warranty.

Thanks!

**EDIT**

I forgot to mention that if I try to start the car without pressing the gas pedal, it won't turn over and when I stop turning the key there is a loud "pop" from the engine bay.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,160 Posts
I'll get the ball rolling using the manual as a guide...

Cheap Fuel or bad tank of gas?

CAI got loose. Retighten it on.

Vacuum Leak. (This happened to mine and resulted in a CEL)

Bad PCV valve?

Bad fuel pump?

Disconnect vacuum hose from Purge valve and plug opening end of vacuum hose, then start engine. does this help?

MAF sensor contamination. Clean this with MAF cleaner. If your oiled CAI got the sensor mucked then it could affect idle.

Tap on the EGR valve when engine is idling. Does engine condition improve?

Does the engine stall after 2 seconds being started? If not then the immobilizer is fine.

Inspect vacuum connection, intake filter element dirty?, fuses, connections, wiring...

Since you need part throttle to idle, inspect the IAC (idle air control) valve next to the intake manifold, check wiring harness.

Has the CAI movement ruined a connection to the MAF, or the wires frayed?

Bad thermostat? It thinks the engine is warm, but it's really COLD.

This only happens when you fill up a full tank of gas? Then doesn't happen when you start your car with half tank etc...?

There's probably a more certain answer, i just listed all the fixes for hard starting. Maybe something will stand out for somebody else.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
305 Posts
That pop you hear is probably a backfire. And you're needing to rev high until the air mixture corrects itself.

Meaning that gas is pouring in while you're filling up the tank.

Meaning your fuel pump is still going, or pressure regulator is hosed.

Stupid question, but do you have the key on ACC listening to radio or anything?


This is one of those times that if u do take it in for warranty, DO take off your F2 & return to stock.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,160 Posts
Topping off is also bad, but I figure everyone would know not to do this.

I did it once as a result of a malfunctioning pump and it spilled gas all over the place. heh
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks a lot for the feedback.

To answer the few questions to get it a little more specific.

This problem ONLY happens after a fill up. After the initial start theres no problem. Even if I start it the hard way, drive it a block, then turn off the engine, it will then start normally.

When I'm filling the car I have the keys out and the doors locked (don't ask me why, I don't know why i lock the doors).

I never top up, it doesn't seem worth it.

The gas i use is probably the best gas station in the area, but I will try a different location next time i fill up. I'll also go through your list tomorrow hourman, I haven't checked the cai fitments yet so it could have gotten loose.

Thanks for everyones help so far!

If anyone has any other suggestions I can look at before taking the cai out and going to the dealer that would be great.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,769 Posts
I had the same exact problem. I forgot what they told me but they replaced it for free. It had something to with a valve staying open or something of that sort. I wasn't really paying attention. My dealership didn't give me crap about my car. They just replaced it for me. I'm not sure how cool is your dealership though. I say take it to them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks shibby,

i'll give them a call about it on monday.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
111 Posts
I have your answer! I've had this same problelm twice now. It's called a solenoid purge valve. The first time it went bad, it took the dealership forever to figure it out. The second time around, the dealership wouldn't even look at it, they would just plug in their computer and they wanted to start replacing other sensors... Since my car was out of warranty, I decided to go elsewhere. So I found a mazda only mechanic, told him of the problem and how it was fixed before. So he looked into it, found the valve, and tested it. He found a vacuum leak so he replaced it. Problem fixed! I now have a problem with my intake manifold which I'm looking through threads now before starting one. yikes! But go right to the purge valve. Wants to stall after filling up the tank. That's it man. Now go!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,769 Posts
[quote author=Thrash link=topic=71452.msg1308425#msg1308425 date=1175573356]
I have your answer! I've had this same problelm twice now. It's called a solenoid purge valve. The first time it went bad, it took the dealership forever to figure it out. The second time around, the dealership wouldn't even look at it, they would just plug in their computer and they wanted to start replacing other sensors... Since my car was out of warranty, I decided to go elsewhere. So I found a mazda only mechanic, told him of the problem and how it was fixed before. So he looked into it, found the valve, and tested it. He found a vacuum leak so he replaced it. Problem fixed! I now have a problem with my intake manifold which I'm looking through threads now before starting one. yikes! But go right to the purge valve. Wants to stall after filling up the tank. That's it man. Now go!
[/quote]

Thats what it was called the solenoid purge valve. It was stuck open or something of that sort
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,160 Posts
Disconnect vacuum hose from Purge valve and plug opening end of vacuum hose, then start engine. does this help?

Maybe this diagnostic would have determined the cause?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,344 Posts
I had the same problem is last winter....I live in vegas, but took a trip up to Utah and it was DAMN COLD!. Car was driving fine, stopped in Beaver for some gas, topped off, and the car didn't start right. Just had to pump the gas pedel with starting and it started. I have never had a problem since then. just a little info.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
hey guys, the problem seems to have completely disapeared, but i'll mention it when i take it in for a service next week.

thanks for all the help!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,344 Posts
no problem man.....make sure you let us know what they say.

I talked to my friend who used to own a 3 and he did mention he had this problem off and on when his fuel pump went out. It was replaced under warranty as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
265 Posts
[quote author=ShaleZoom3 link=topic=71452.msg1309344#msg1309344 date=1175619631]
I I live in vegas, but took a trip up to Utah and it was DAMN COLD!. [/quote]
I'm just wondering what temperature cold is for you guys. Just in case this ever happens to me at the same temperature range i will have an idea as to what it is.
For me cold is when it hits -35 for a few days. and thats -31 in fahrenheit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,078 Posts
i have been having the same problem... the last 3 times i filled up with gas (at different Chevron stations) the car is very hard to start initially. Once it starts it will restart just fine. I also have gotten a CEL with the code P0455 Evap Emissions leak (large). From everything I have read here and in the manual it appears I may have a bad purge valve solenoid. My 3 has over 50k so I'm not getting it replaced under warranty. Funny too that in my warranty description the purge value solenoid is listed as a part not covered after 24k miles. Strange. I'm almost due for maintenance so I might take it by the closest dealer and have them sort things out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
111 Posts
Just FYI, if you let a dealer "sort it out", they'll just want to start spending time on the computer, sensors, etc. Just tell them to change the sensor, clear the codes, and update computer if it needs updated. You'll spend less that way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I'm sorry (for others) but also glad to hear I am not alone in this problem. The last 3 times I have filled up my car it will not start afterward and the check engine light comes on. The code comes up P0455 each time. I only have 8k miles on my 3!! Best thing to do is take it to the stealership to have them repair it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,344 Posts
yeah with only 8k on the car, best take it to them
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,994 Posts
i had this same issue.i was on a long ass road trip too (PA to Savannah GA - 10+hr drive) - i was scared shitless lol.stuck at a gas station in buttfuck with no cash in bank and already running late to make it back to post on time after a 4day weekend...yea my bosses wernt hearing it.my boss said i dont care if you gotta leave the car and steal a big wheel i want you at PT in 4 hrs.i prayed to the car gods,gave it some gas when trying to start it and took the hell off before something else could go wrong.since its warmed up ive never had the problem since.
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top