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sick and tired to that CEL

few days ago after having my change oil, CEL came on and so i had it checked. P0661 MAZDA - VIS Control Solenoid Valve Circuit Low Input, so we replaced the vacuum solenoid. after having it replaced as i was test driving it, CEL came back on so i checked it again and another code comes up, it says p2009. i wonder what it is? can anyone here help me!


 

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CEL PO715 and PO128

well I joined the group of the CEL lights, and as I call them idiot lights since they tell you nothing.
I know absolutely nothing about cars but was able to get BOTH these errors repaired for $200.00 thanks to this board.

we purchased a BEAUTIFUL 2004 M3 in Nov. 2012 in mid January 2013 the CEL came on. I was not told about it since the son was driving it. next time I drove the car the AT light appeared, and I noticed that the semi-manual transmission did not work at all.

Hence my showing up here on the boards. I purchased a code reader from a local auto parts store $40.00 and got the actual REASON for the CEL.
with this information I found the parts and the directs to repair these errors.

I found the FN01-21-550 part on ebay for $25.00 (the dealer wanted $125.00) for the PO715 error. This I attempted to do myself, but knowing nothing about cars I gave up and had a local mechanic do it.

I ordered the part for the PO128 error
SENSOR,TEMP.-ENG.COO (L35G-18-840) at

http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/products/SENSOR,TEMP.%2dENG.COO-(L35G%2d18%2d840).html

total cost with shipping $35.00

With the mechanic bill at $114.00 for BOTH sensors installed. I think I did great. the semi-manual tranny works again and I am back to Zoom-Zoom.

I hope this helps someone, I know you guys helped me tons.
thanks
 

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Quick quesion, did your car "run better" after you replaced the thermostat? My car has the same issue, and then today it was running very rough and missing while idling, now the po300 random misfire code came on. I was planning on changing the thermostat this weekend, but now I think I may have a larger problem.
 

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2018 Mazda3 2.0 w preferred package, deep dark blue
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WOW wtf.....P0126 and another prob.

Just repl the thermostat w updated new Mazda thermostat. New part has more metal on thermostat itself and doesnt have that weep or relief hole in the plastic housing outside.

Those clips were MURDER. Better off clamping the main hose clamp down and leaving it off the hose, looped around the plastic t-stat housing FIRST and then slide the rubber hose onto the plastic housing, then worm the clamp onto hose, position it, then let the fuck go!

I used approx 1.5 gallons total, after burpping etc.

Car WOULD NOT START after I reconnected the neg batt terminal. Had to get it towed to nearby shop, was covered w my insurance roadside.

THIS WAS A NEW PROBLEM. Single wire terminal connected to starter corrodes badly on our cars along with these newer motors all together. Mechanic had to clean off that one hot wire going to starter and cut in a new connector as old connector was corroded too.

To ALL Mazda3 owners. KEEP AN EYE ON THAT CONNECTOR. Right up front, center of motor, easily accessed, easily seen when you DIY oil change.

Good thing it happened now, when I was ready for it. So the rest of you owners know. This starter problem can occur at ANY TIME AND LEAVE YOU STRANDED. Unless you clean that terminal. And keep it clean.

The engine ground terminal, also up front was badly corroded. I will clean that up this Spring along w adding a good ground kit, similar to my '91 Nissan 300ZX, works great on that car.

Always good to have more grounds, regardless.
 

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earlier today I cleaned my maf sensor and throttle body due to the bad gas mileage I had been getting for a while and my car having 80k miles never being sure if it had ever been done before. I use thr proper cleaner bought from autozone and did everything the way I had read about befor. (decided to clean the tb with it still on, didn't work too well I had a helper but ill be removing it and fully cleaning it next weekend) I let everything dry out for a few hours then I put it all back together and got ready for work. An hour later I came out to leave and started the car the cel came on so i reched all my connections and everything looked okay so I went to autozone to get it scanned they found p0113 trouble code and didn't offer much help. So I drove to work thinking it was just the maf being so cold from the cleaner due to it freezing my hand while I held it. 3 hours later I started my car and the light was off and everything looks good.
I researched for help with this and didn't find much so I thought id post my expirence to help someone else that may have this issue happen
 

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Was leaving work today and noticed that my check engine light came on for no reason...I'm sure there was a reason...but I don't know what :? . I checked the gas cap to make sure it was tight and clicked it a few times as mentioned on this forum, but still no resolution.

I contacted the dealer and I have to drop it off this Thursday. Has anyone ever figured out what the check engine light other than the gas cap on the Mazda 3 concerns? Any resolution? Please help :( !

Thanks,
Spencer

EDIT: Thread title :twisted:
If you had a CEL code in the first place then we could've told you that you need to replace your coolant thermostat... but it is really weird that you had car for so short and that happened...
 

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CEL P0446

Im currently looking onto this problem---> Code P0446 CEL. I bought a fuel cap and a purge control valve. Any tips on replacing the valve? Once the valve is replaced do I need to reset the CEL? or will it go away on its own if the problem is solved? Thanks
 

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P2177 has been off and on for about a year now. I've cleaned my MAF several times, ran fuel injector cleaner twice in the year, cleaned my air filter, and tried almost really everything else that I've heard of on this forum and other forums. It runs fine with it on so I'm not too terribly worried. It would be nice to have that light go away though.
 

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Something really odd happen to my car just now....Been driving all day even parked and came back & drove around etc....Everything was ok....til I turned on the A/C when I got home I was sitting at Idle in PARK then turned off the A/C when all of a sudden my RPM's started to fluctuate and the Idle started to whack out...my LED DRL's started to flicker....WTF...Then I got a P2188 CEL
Why the hell would this happen all of a sudden?....
After I cleared the CEL the car Idles normal again....Thank Goodness...
Anyone shed light on this???
 

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Codes:

P0132 and P2195

I have to say plenty of stuff on this forum for the P2195 being for MAF sensor (cleaning etc.) however in my case it was the front O2 sensor.

Easy way to check? Check voltage on the O2 sensor, none = bad.

Symptom?

In 2nd gear shift to 3rd at low RPM so 3rd gear is at low RPM, when in 3rd, floor gas... As RPM climbs you will get a bucking hesitation around 4,000 RPM. If you let off the gas and press again, it will act fine and climb through the RPM correctly. The same test can be done from 3rd to 4th, however the hesitation/bucking will occur around 5,000 RPM.

Part from MazdaSpeed $55, 5 minutes to swap out, problem fixed.
You are so correct with this...
 
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