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Its been a while since I posted on this forum but I wanted to pass this along....

I just ordered a GTA cat kit for my Mazda 3 2004. It was very easy to install and only took about 30 minutes. I am using an iPhone 4 and the sound quality is crystal clear. I don't know what I ever did without it. Here is a link to the website http://www.gtacarkits.com

It costs $99 and worth every penny. The website has a video that shows you how to install and anyone can do it.
 

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Check Engine Light came on: 9/1/2011

Code: P0128

Background: Last weekend I got an oil change and AC belt replaced at a local Good Year shop. Yesterday I replaced a side marker light myself.

Solution: Ongoing -- scanned and got code today, reset/removed CEL.

It seems a little suspicious to me that I'd get a CEL so soon after getting work done at a shop that wanted to overcharge me for strut replacement. I haven't had any codes or engine problems aside from the gas cap code since I bought the car like two years ago.

9/9/11 Edit: I left the code reader plugged in since 9/1, and finally unplugged it yesterday. Got 0128 this morning on the way to work. I'm planning on replacing the thermostat when I replace my struts.
 

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Ok guys, i'm having the same codes as other people. I've looked, but can't find for a clear answer. I have done some looking around, and it looks like a mazda 6 purge solenoid valve would work on a 2.3L mz3. Has anyone tried this? if so, please let me know if it worked. looks like it should sit right in place with the original. part numbers are DORMAN 911700 for mazda 3, and DORMAN 911701 for the mazda 6.
 

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[quote author=Reconfigure link=topic=49413.msg4103937#msg4103937 date=1314900487]
Check Engine Light came on: 9/1/2011

Code: P0128

Background: Last weekend I got an oil change and AC belt replaced at a local Good Year shop. Yesterday I replaced a side marker light myself.

Solution: Ongoing -- scanned and got code today, reset/removed CEL.

It seems a little suspicious to me that I'd get a CEL so soon after getting work done at a shop that wanted to overcharge me for strut replacement. I haven't had any codes or engine problems aside from the gas cap code since I bought the car like two years ago.

9/9/11 Edit: I left the code reader plugged in since 9/1, and finally unplugged it yesterday. Got 0128 this morning on the way to work. I'm planning on replacing the thermostat when I replace my struts.
[/quote]

did you replaced the thermostat? I got this code in October. I turned off the light and it hasn't come back on since then. Wonder if it was a glitch. :-/
 

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Got the P2177 code on Tuesday, the 17th. Haven't had it since the summer when the temperatures were extremely hot. Still don't know what is causing it, only that I can reset the code and it won't come on for multiple months. I've had a suspicion that it could be related to letting the amount of gas in the car get too low and with the fluctuating temperature we're having in Texas it causes a lean condition when I let off the gas. Then again I'm not to clear on what is meant by "off idle" either, so I may be completely off base with this one. Any ideas?
 

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Hi, I got a CEL twice now about when I hit half a tank of gas. The first time, I was on a rather long drive and thought that it may have been just that I didnt tighten up the gas cap, which has happened before, and had to reset my computer, so thinking that was the problem with this one, I did the same. Tonight though, driving back home, at the half way mark on my gas gauge, the CEL popped up again. I haven't had time to get the code pulled yet, but was just curious if anybody else had this problem? I will admit I have been running the less reputable gas in my car, so I thought it was that. So I did get some better gas and only ran half a tank. I did read somewhere that it may take a full tank or two to get some of that other gas out. was hoping for ideas of what to do next after I get the code. Its just that i live in a rather small town and closest autozone is about 20 mins away.
 

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I just had my CEL come on yesterday, was due for an oil change so I got the code pulled there. The 2 they had were P2404 and P2405.

I think this is the evap pump for the emission system. Is this correct? Could it be anything else?
 

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[quote author=Parabolous link=topic=49413.msg4248566#msg4248566 date=1342103081]
Got mahself a code reader and found that my car has the P2177 code.

I've read multiple threads and online sources about this. It seems to be a trail and error sort of thing.

Anyone know what might be the cause?
[/quote]


mods?
 

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I got a P103, which referred to the MAf (bad signal) I cleaned not too long ago, never gave me issues until I did.

Also have the P2004, the runners are stuck open. Found that teh solenoid was unplugged, fixed that, worked for a half day, then went back to being a poopie head. Need to check the whole area anyway for vacuum leaks I guess.

Anybody knows the P2004 code could be related to something else in the car? I also have a code for the cat and the thermostat.

(In case y'all wondering, my car hydrolocked about 4 moths ago. Saved her from oblivion, but now she is all sorts of quirky)
 

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[quote author=OrangeVirus1 link=topic=49413.msg4256265#msg4256265 date=1343963094]
p2004 is runners. specific. Could be clogged up from the years and they can't close/open properly.

Fix : take off intake manifold and clean it
Fix 2 : deal with it. doesn't hurt anything
[/quote]

Actually, it does. It affects acceleration horribly, and mpg's are on the floor. And the manifold was taken off recently, when I had to evacuate it from all the water it sucked in (hydrolock).
 

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Hey guys,

Got the following codes on my Mazda3 2005:

p0442 - freeze frame
p0442 pending
p0455 pending

From what I have read this is the purge solenoid valve. Should I replace it DIY? I saw a walk through and it looks easy enough. Also, I have a Mazdaspeed CAI, do you recommend I clean the MAF? Could that be part of the problem too?

Any advice or reassurance I am on the right path is appreciated :)

thx.

**update: Aug18, 2012**

Bought the solenoid purge valve at the stealership for a $120 gouge. Replaced it myself, took all of 15 minutes. Followed the walk through on this site, its super easy (no pics required to follow).

Step 1: Disconnect negative terminal of battery:
Step 2: Disconnect the wire clip from the solenoid valve:
Step 3: Disconnect this fitting near the firewall with the quick-release connector:
Step 4: Disconnect this fitting from the front of the engine:
Step 5: Slide the solenoid valve towards the front of the car to release it from the rubber fitting that holds it in place:
Step 6: Loosen the hose clamp connecting the line from the firewall to the solenoid valve, and remove old valve (which remains connected to the front line).
Step 7: Connect quick-release clamp of new front line to the front of engine (simply snaps on).
Step 8: Reconnect the rear line to the new solenoid valve and tighten hose clamp. Make sure the raised line of plastic on the valve is lined up with the marked line on the rear hose, and slide the solenoid valve back into the rubber fitting:
9: Snap rear line back onto the fitting coming from the firewall.
Step 10: Reconnect wire clip and battery cable:
Step 11: Done!
Step 12: Don't forget to remove this plug from the new front line before trying to connect it :


Total outlay: $210, but.... For $90 I bought a OBD2 scanner (in a bundle that included a battery tester and live circuit tester) and the part was $120. I get to keep the hardware and I did not have to pay the stealership their rate of $119 just to look at my car. Not sure what the stealership total would have come to but it is certainly more than my DIY with hardware purchase. Hopefully this solves the problem, so far so good, if my gas cap seal is bad that would cost $55 to replace the cap (anouther stealership gouge). May look online for a better deal if needed...

Hope this helps someone else who may have this problem :)
 

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Can gasoline cause a CEL? I was getting the 2177 code in the 3 intermittently and I've been getting gas at the same gas station. However, for the fill up before the most recent the CEL went away I wasn't throwing any codes and I filled up at a different gas station. I even passed emissions with no problems whatsoever with that particular gas in the tank.

Then I filled up with the gas I usually get and the CEL came back. What is that about? It was the dame type E86 gasoline, just a different station.
 

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Got the P0126 "insufficient coolant temp" code a couple weeks back with 146K miles on the car. First CEL the car ever had. Did some research, replaced the thermostat last week, pulled neg batter cable to clear code, took it for for a drive and all is good now :)
 
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