Mazda3 Forums banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone! Please help sometimes my Mazda runs great others I want to drive it off a cliff. When it runs bad the only difference is it vibrates under acceleration and acceleration is pretty much cut in half... other times it’s surprisingly fast sounds great, 0 vibration. My car is bipolar literally feels like 2 different cars it’s driving me insane. It’s a 04 with 2.3. I’ve been to shops they did nothing but create more problems for me to fix. Mods are cold air intake, intake manifold, exhaust. Also hear what may be a vacuum leak. Whining noise. I’ve done vcg And egr is unplugged that seemed to help for a day or 2 then back to running like trash. Change oil good for 2 days then back to the dump. It’s infuriating. So thanks for reading and if you could help it would be greatly appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,873 Posts
Are there any trouble codes? What do your fuel trims look like? Is it tuned? I don't think you can run an aftermarket intake manifold very well without a tune. Even then, there are next to no gains from running one. I would say put the stock intake manifold and air intake back on and see if the problem goes away. These cars are very sensitive to what cold air intake you have on them Even my HPS intake, which is one of the better ones, threw my fuel trims off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So the stock intake was broken the dude that had it before me botched the vtcs removal. So yea not much in the way in performance gain. But fuel trims fluctuate sometimes at idle it’s normal like +3-9 assuming because of mods. Sometimes it’s 20.3 sometimes it throws a lean idle code. I actually just purchased a 2.5 with 70k on eBay last night lol this motor is beat and has way too many miles
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Are there any trouble codes? What do your fuel trims look like? Is it tuned? I don't think you can run an aftermarket intake manifold very well without a tune. Even then, there are next to no gains from running one. I would say put the stock intake manifold and air intake back on and see if the problem goes away. These cars are very sensitive to what cold air intake you have on them Even my HPS intake, which is one of the better ones, threw my fuel trims off.
I got the oem intake to not leak and the fuel trims were still all over the place, sometimes they are perfectly in range right near 0 for 2 or 3 days then something happens and back to 20.3
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,873 Posts
Some things to check would be fuel pressure and the purge valve. A failing fuel pump or a sticking purge valve could cause the fuel trim to fluctuate like that and cause intermittent running issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok I did the purge valve a while ago and so if it’s the fuel pump I should have the same issue when I swap motors, but I do notice it’s running rich unless black smoke can also be a symptom of a lean condition?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Hey everyone! Please help sometimes my Mazda runs great others I want to drive it off a cliff. When it runs bad the only difference is it vibrates under acceleration and acceleration is pretty much cut in half... other times it’s surprisingly fast sounds great, 0 vibration. My car is bipolar literally feels like 2 different cars it’s driving me insane. It’s a 04 with 2.3. I’ve been to shops they did nothing but create more problems for me to fix. Mods are cold air intake, intake manifold, exhaust. Also hear what may be a vacuum leak. Whining noise. I’ve done vcg And egr is unplugged that seemed to help for a day or 2 then back to running like trash. Change oil good for 2 days then back to the dump. It’s infuriating. So thanks for reading and if you could help it would be greatly appreciated.
This worked for my M3 running poorly. Let idle for 20 minutes with out and thing on, radio, ac, lights ect. Then shut it off for a minute or so, start it back up and then turn only the ac on full blast for 20 minutes. Shut it off again, finally start it back up take a drive for a few miles. It makes your computer recalibrate. Sounds strange, but it works. Plus I upgraded my negative battery wire to four gauge. Just the one fro the battery to the driver side front fender, also with a brass terminal. Fiers up like she's brand new and ready to run. Total cost out of pocket 15 bucks for a 15 inch 4 gauge cable and a brass terminal from Walmart. The cable was a bit to short so I grounded it to a bolt a little closer. Not but positive ever since. I hope this helps.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top