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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking for some guidance regarding my planned set-up. Tenatively, I am planning on the following:

JL 500/5 Amplifier
eD 9kv.2 8" Sub (small sealed enclosure)
eD 6000s v.2 Components

Per Mathman's suggestions in the other post, I'm also considering the Peerless Definition 6" and the CDT CL-61A/TW-24 component sets.

I'm over the booming bass setup that dominated my previous car. I want a system that sounds great with the varying types of music that I listen to. I like listening to my music loud, and the stock system in my MS3 Sport is just not cutting it (non-Bose)

My initial questions is: Is the JL 500/5 too much for this configuration?

I want one amp to run the components and the sub, but I can't seem to find a 3 channel amp that will do the trick. I'm going to be using the stock head unit w/ a LOC & probably running the rear speakers off of the head unit or disconnecting them all together.

I know the JL product is very good. I've also seen a Soundstream 5 channel amp, and a few folks on here seem to like their products.

I'd love some guidance on this. My goal is to spend around $500 for the sub, components and amp. I know, you're probably saying "The amp alone is $800+!!" I've found a few on Ebay for under $300, which is why I am considering it.

I'm certainly open to other amp options that would power the speakers listed above.
 

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It would work. I have a JL 10", if I had to do it again, id go 8" too.

That amp would push a good quality 8" very well.

The components would be getting enough/clean power as well. You should be satisfied with the ending result.

I might suggest doing a small fiberglass box...to me fiberglass has always sounded better. I build one for my 10". Its on the board somewhere in one of my posts from last summer.

Best of luck! Let us know on the outcome.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
[quote author=everett-m3s link=topic=71859.msg1264925#msg1264925 date=1173803401]
It would work. I have a JL 10", if I had to do it again, id go 8" too.

That amp would push a good quality 8" very well.

The components would be getting enough/clean power as well. You should be satisfied with the ending result.

I might suggest doing a small fiberglass box...to me fiberglass has always sounded better. I build one for my 10". Its on the board somewhere in one of my posts from last summer.

Best of luck! Let us know on the outcome.
[/quote]

Ah, the box. Originally, I was going to do a stealth box via a group buy, but that fell apart. Now I'm left trying to figure out the best way to mount it. I want to keep my hatch area as available as possible. My initial thought is to do a small box that can be removed easily should I need the space. I was planning on building my own MDF box.

I wouldn't mind undertaking a fiberglass project, but since I've never worked with it before so I'd have to do a lot of research first. We'll see how I feel when I get to that stage. If I decide to go fiberglass, I may just try my hand at the stealth box.

My first step is the amp and the components. Once they are purchased and installed, I'll focus on the sub.
 

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If as you stated you only want to run comps and a sub then one 4 channel should work for you. That will give you more options.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Would I run 2-channels to the comps and then bridge the other two for the sub? I though 4-channel amps were primarily for pushing comps and mids.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It looks like eD's amplifier might do the trick: http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=46

If I wire it at 2 ohm and bridge the two channels for the sub, am I effectively getting 200w to the sub?

(as I look on eD's site, I see that the Nine.4 + 9kv.2 + 6000s Comps is one of their suggested set-ups)

Edit: I called Elemental Designs, and through their Package Builder I can get the amp, sub, and comps for $404 shipped. I may have to place an order sooner than I thought.
 

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[quote author=Insurance Guy link=topic=71859.msg1265463#msg1265463 date=1173818763]
It looks like eD's amplifier might do the trick: http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=46

If I wire it at 2 ohm and bridge the two channels for the sub, am I effectively getting 200w to the sub?

(as I look on eD's site, I see that the Nine.4 + 9kv.2 + 6000s Comps is one of their suggested set-ups)
[/quote]


Going by eD's specs-http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/product_info.php?t=2&products_id=46, it looks like the max power for two channels bridged is 150 watts @ 4 ohms. Seems a little strange, as most amps deliver the same total power into a 2 ohm stereo load as a 4 ohm mono (i.e. if an amp delivers 150 x 2 @ 2 ohms (300 total watts), it will deliver 300 x 1 @ 4 ohms). Maybe it's a misprint on their part?


That eD amp also does not appear to be 2 ohm mono stable, so if you do get it, you'll be better off getting a 2 ohm DVC 9kV.2. Wire the voice coils in series, and you'll end up with a nice 4 ohm mono load that the power supply can handle and generate the maxiumum power from the amp. If you purchase the 4 ohm DVC 9kV.2 you'll either end up with a 2 ohm mono load if you wire the voice coils in parallel (bad for the power supply of the amp), an 8 ohm load if you wire the voice coils in series (bad because you're not getting all the power from your amp), or heaven forbid you end up running each voice coil off one channel of the amp (really, really, bad, as you won't be getting all the power from the amp and you'll either have subtantially reduced bass output from the phase irregularities between the two channels, or end up blowing the sub).


Edit: put the correct link to the eD site. Previous link was incorrect.
 

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[quote author=dehoff link=topic=71859.msg1265546#msg1265546 date=1173821159]

Going by eD's specs-http://www.ncaa.org/champadmin/champs_listing1.html, it looks like the max power for two channels bridged is 150 watts @ 4 ohms. Seems a little strange, as most amps deliver the same total power into a 2 ohm stereo load as a 4 ohm mono (i.e. if an amp delivers 150 x 2 @ 2 ohms (300 total watts), it will deliver 300 x 1 @ 4 ohms). Maybe it's a misprint on their part?

[/quote]

It does look to be a misprint. It lists 100w X 4 into 2 ohms, which by all accounts should be 200w X 2 into 4 ohms. Either way, it’s a good amount of power for a set of components and a smallish, reasonably efficient subwoofer.

Either this amp or the JL would be fine. Both are of good quality. I haven’t compared these to see how flexible the crossovers are etc – some features may differ a bit. Don’t forget to look at physical size if you have a spot picked out. I’ve seen the JL 500/5, and it’s not terribly small.
 

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[quote author=Mathman link=topic=71859.msg1265680#msg1265680 date=1173824953]
[quote author=dehoff link=topic=71859.msg1265546#msg1265546 date=1173821159]

Going by eD's specs-http://www.ncaa.org/champadmin/champs_listing1.html, it looks like the max power for two channels bridged is 150 watts @ 4 ohms. Seems a little strange, as most amps deliver the same total power into a 2 ohm stereo load as a 4 ohm mono (i.e. if an amp delivers 150 x 2 @ 2 ohms (300 total watts), it will deliver 300 x 1 @ 4 ohms). Maybe it's a misprint on their part?

[/quote]

It does look to be a misprint. It lists 100w X 4 into 2 ohms, which by all accounts should be 200w X 2 into 4 ohms. Either way, it’s a good amount of power for a set of components and a smallish, reasonably efficient subwoofer.

Either this amp or the JL would be fine. Both are of good quality. I haven’t compared these to see how flexible the crossovers are etc – some features may differ a bit. Don’t forget to look at physical size if you have a spot picked out. I’ve seen the JL 500/5, and it’s not terribly small.

[/quote]

The 500/5 is a bit overkill with it's asymmetrical power output if he isn't running rear speakers. The 450/4 (75w x2, 300w x1) or 300/4 (75w x2, 150w x1)would be better choices if he's not running any rear fill.


The x-over on the eD is a little more limited. It's selectable from 40-240Hz(well enough for midbass/sub), but only has a 12dB/oct. slope, whereas the JL's have a selectable 12 or 24 dB/oct. slope. The JL's x-over is can be adjusted from 50-5kHz, so it is more versatile, especially if a fully active system might be in the works down the road.
 

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[quote author=dehoff link=topic=71859.msg1265722#msg1265722 date=1173826913]
The 500/5 is a bit overkill with it's asymmetrical power output if he isn't running rear speakers. The 450/4 (75w x2, 300w x1) or 300/4 (75w x2, 150w x1)would be better choices if he's not running any rear fill.
[/quote]

Oops, I totally glossed over the fact that rear fill isn’t desired. I withdraw my recommendation of the 500/5 in favor of a 4-channel amp. :D
 

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[quote author=Insurance Guy link=topic=71859.msg1265463#msg1265463 date=1173818763]
It looks like eD's amplifier might do the trick: http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=46

If I wire it at 2 ohm and bridge the two channels for the sub, am I effectively getting 200w to the sub?

(as I look on eD's site, I see that the Nine.4 + 9kv.2 + 6000s Comps is one of their suggested set-ups)

Edit: I called Elemental Designs, and through their Package Builder I can get the amp, sub, and comps for $404 shipped. I may have to place an order sooner than I thought.
[/quote]

That's a nice price for all that gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for all of the input guys. I called eD, and they suggested the 2 ohm 9kv.2 as well. As for their pricing, it's quite good.

So I guess the only question is - is it worth the extra $$ for a 4-channel amp with a more versitile crossover? Will it make that much of a difference over the eD amp?
 

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[quote author=Insurance Guy link=topic=71859.msg1265827#msg1265827 date=1173831415]
Thanks for all of the input guys. I called eD, and they suggested the 2 ohm 9kv.2 as well. As for their pricing, it's quite good.

So I guess the only question is - is it worth the extra $$ for a 4-channel amp with a more versitile crossover? Will it make that much of a difference over the eD amp?
[/quote]


Seeing as how the JL amps would cost about the same price as everything from eD, that's a question you'll have to answer. IMO- the additonal flexibility of the crossover in the JL amp isn't much of an issue. If you were using a larger sub (12" or larger), the steeper slopes available on the JL amps may have been worth the additional cost.

mild rant follows:
I would really, really, really, discourage you from buying JL products from unauthorized sources (and that means ANY dealer on the internet). JL is fairly aggressive in their campaign against unauthorized dealers, so those that sell unauthorized JL products may go to great lengths to remove serial numbers to cover their tracks. This includes removing dust covers on their subs and disassembling the amps. Whether or not they are correctly reassembled is anyone's guess.

The eD product will have full warranty. That alone is worth it IMO.
 

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[quote author=dehoff link=topic=71859.msg1265722#msg1265722 date=1173826913]
[quote author=Mathman link=topic=71859.msg1265680#msg1265680 date=1173824953]
[quote author=dehoff link=topic=71859.msg1265546#msg1265546 date=1173821159]

Going by eD's specs-http://www.ncaa.org/champadmin/champs_listing1.html, it looks like the max power for two channels bridged is 150 watts @ 4 ohms. Seems a little strange, as most amps deliver the same total power into a 2 ohm stereo load as a 4 ohm mono (i.e. if an amp delivers 150 x 2 @ 2 ohms (300 total watts), it will deliver 300 x 1 @ 4 ohms). Maybe it's a misprint on their part?

[/quote]

It does look to be a misprint. It lists 100w X 4 into 2 ohms, which by all accounts should be 200w X 2 into 4 ohms. Either way, it’s a good amount of power for a set of components and a smallish, reasonably efficient subwoofer.

Either this amp or the JL would be fine. Both are of good quality. I haven’t compared these to see how flexible the crossovers are etc – some features may differ a bit. Don’t forget to look at physical size if you have a spot picked out. I’ve seen the JL 500/5, and it’s not terribly small.

[/quote]

The 500/5 is a bit overkill with it's asymmetrical power output if he isn't running rear speakers. The 450/4 (75w x2, 300w x1) or 300/4 (75w x2, 150w x1)would be better choices if he's not running any rear fill.


The x-over on the eD is a little more limited. It's selectable from 40-240Hz(well enough for midbass/sub), but only has a 12dB/oct. slope, whereas the JL's have a selectable 12 or 24 dB/oct. slope. The JL's x-over is can be adjusted from 50-5kHz, so it is more versatile, especially if a fully active system might be in the works down the road.
[/quote]

If you use a 500/5, you should have rear fills. I believe thats why the rears are only like 25w.

I think the entire soundstage will sound great. I have 100w to the components up front, 50w to the rear, and 300w to the sub. It sounds great together.

I say go for it :) The JL amps also offer great "tune-a-bility". You can hone in on exactly what sounds good to your ears.
 
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