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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
(Mods-I know I started a similar post in the electronics forum. Sorry. I thought relocating it and adding a more specific title would yield better results. Feel free to lock or delete the other one.)

I'm considering installing a Parrot CK3100 bluetooth kit. (I know there are cheaper clip-on types available but I want it to be fully integrated. I don't want to have to charge it, I want auto pairing when I start the car, the stereo to mute on incoming/outgoing calls, want audio over stereo speakers and want call to transfer back to handset when I shut off the car, and support for multiple phones. The Parrot seems to fit the bill.)

If I didn't have the Bose stereo, it would be a matter of a $20 harness and plug and play installation. Bose looks like it requires a $130+ kit. I'm thinking about manually hardwiring it. I think the problem with the Bose systems is the Parrot audio signal is inserted before the amp so it gets amplified and ends up being way too loud. There may be a way to attenuate the signal at that point, but I'm thinking I could avoid this by tapping into the speaker wires after the amp. It may mean running some longer wires.

Does the factory head unit have a lead for mute? I assume it does somewhere because it can be done from the steering wheel controls. Can anybody tell me where I can tap into it? I know the other option is to utilize the remote turn on lead for the amp, but I'd much rather mute than turn the amp on and off.

My other question is if I'll have issues with the voice directions from the nav unit. Does anyone know how the nav is connected to the speakers? I believe it is independent of the HU since I think people have replaced the stock HU and the nav still works over the speakers. Does the nav have its own audio amp that taps into the speaker wires somewhere (similar to the Parrot unit)? If so, does anyone know where this is? I don't think I want the nav directions to cut into my phone calls. Surely someone who has done an aftermarket audio install has discovered this if they ran new speaker wires to comps in the doors and lost the nav voice. Is it possible that the nav audio signal is inserted before the bose amp?

Sorry for the long winded post. I'm hoping someone has done something similar and can give some advice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Re: Parrot CK3100 Install questions (Bose + nav)

I think there's also a way to route the audio through the aux-in, but I don't want to have to manually change the source input every time I make/receive a call.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: Parrot CK3100 Install questions (Bose + nav)

I found some install info that may be helpful.

http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/cellularaccessorycom/parrotinstall.pdf

It looks pretty simple. Just need to hook up constant and switched power, ground, mute and put it in line with the front speaker wires.

What I still need to figure out:

Verify location and functionality of mute input for OEM HU.

I am adding an aftermarket amplifier and I don't like the idea of sending a high power signal through the Parrot box and its tiny lead wires. This means I would need to put it inline before the amp. Looks like this will result in excessive volume. I need to find out what value of resistor to put in line to pad it down so it's not too loud.

If anyone has info or experience to share please chime in. I don't mind having a conversation with myself as it may help someone else in the future, but if someone else has it figured out, I wouldn't have to reinvent the wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

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Did you end up getting this installed? I have the same issues I'm trying to figure out. I only paid $90 for the unit, so $130 for a wiring adapter is pushing it a little...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Not yet. I got one off eBay last week and haven't received it.

I got some wiring diagrams from Parrot and I'm going to hardwire it myself. It's not too tough if you have some electronics aptitude.

Do you have the OEM Bose system? Mine will require a little more thought since I have an aftermarket amp. Let me know if you have any specific questions about the install.
 

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Well I got a giant bundle of wires with the thing, and a few are labeled "mute" with one or two others labeled for power and ground. Of course that doesn't explain the 15 other ones. I'm guessing I just need power, ground, and a mute wire to somehow attach into the stereo, then wire up a speaker or two.

Yes, it's the OEM Bose system and the only aftermarket part to it right now is the amp and sub. Any idea how the mute attaches and whether you can tap before the amp with any of those extra wires, or if it has to go afterwards?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I don't have a solid answer on the mute. Apparently there is a location for the wire in the HU harness, but it may or may not have a pin in it. Furthermore if you add a pin, it may or may not work (reference http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=15294.0). This is my first choice, and I will try it myself after I get my Parrot and have a chance to install it.

If the mute function above doesn't pan out, the other option is to shut off the amp using the remote power lead. You can access this wire behind the HU or under the seat by the Bose amp.

For speakers, I'm afraid you will have to tap after the amp if you want to use the factory speakers (if you're adding an external speaker, you can stop reading here). The Parrot has a built-in amp, so it outputs an amplified speaker-level signal. If you put it before the amp, it will be way too loud (the amp is expecting a line-level input). That means running extra wires for the speakers if you put the box in the dash. If you mount the Parrot box under the seat by the amp, you may not have to run anything to the dash if you're creative (you have access to power-constant and siwtched, and you can use the remote turn-on method above). You will have to cut the speaker wires coming out of the Bose harness (there's not a lot of extra wire to work with, so you'll have to take out the seat to make your connections). The parrot box has built in relays, so you wire it in line between the amp and the speakers. The Parrot box is rated to handle 25 watts RMS (assume this is per channel) so you should be fine with the Bose amp.

Since have an aftermarket amp, I may have to do it differently. Parrot tech support said it should be OK, but I don't want to fry anything and I don't like the idea of sending a lot of power through the small Parrot leads. I think it will be easiest if I just use my rear speakers for the Parrot (I'm not using them for anything right now). I'll see how it sounds with the voice coming from the back doors. If I don't like it, I'll probably add some extra relays to switch the front speakers.

Sorry I got a little long-winded, hope it made sense.
 

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I know I'm joining the conversation late, but my CK3100 arrived this afternoon, so here goes...

Makes sense that the parrot bridge would have to be right before the speakers, placing it before the amp input would be riduculous and might blow the amp or speakers or parrot or everything.

However, I do not have the Bose system. I'm going to solder and shrink the leads to the stock harness, so I need tips on which colors are the speaker wires. I haven't been able to find a diagram or description. This might be a long night, better get out the shop lights. Thanks in advance.
 

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I might just try and go with the external, individual speaker rather than wiring it into the Bose system. Now that it's finally getting warm, I'll just have to go take a look at everything and try to figure it out... Still, pics of the install would definitely be helpful, though.
 

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Got it all soldered up and everything works great, the camera is lost in the pile of junk in the garage that still has to be put away, no pics tonight...I basically clipped every speaker wire coming into the speaker harness and soldered the bypass incoming and outgoing (16 joints). Quite tedious. I have a theory, that since cell voice signals are just monophonic, it doesn't matter which wires you pair up as long as they come out in the same orientation (the parrot doesn't care what signal goes where, because they're all the same during a call). However, I made the effort and ran it like the manual diagram recommended. Then came the 12v battery and 12v ignition leads, which i just clipped and soldered together with the related leads to the parrot. The ground was a pain in the butt since it's a much bigger gauge than the other wires, but lots of solder and a bigger shrinkwrap make for a solid joint. The mic is on the flat mount tucked into the top of the A-pillar shroud (the foam tape wasn't sticky at ALL). Routed the wire down the door jamb, under the lower steering column cover, and fished it up into the stereo cavity with a wire hanger, plenty of length. The control knob is carelessly hung out the left center vent (that tape didn't work either). There was a hole in the side of the vent portion of the top panel that is covered with tape. I drilled this big enough to fit the plug through, but I think it would be easier to just run it through the foam where the opening meets the throat. I'd say mount the display wherever you want it, that's a pretty important preference.
I chose not to buy the $30+ Mazda-specific harness because I hate clogging up the dash cavity with bulky adapters and useless wire lengths, which only add to audible noise and headaches when routing wiring.
I put the brains above the center vents. they said to avoid the hvac, but it was 9PM and I didn't feel like crawling around on the floorboards messing with placement. It only has to last until I inevitably break down and mount a re-q under that panel with a little sexy plexi.
Thoughts on its performance.......
-At highway speed the volume is plenty clear and my test subjects claim that while there was some audible noise, I was coming through loud and clear.
-The phone takes about 20 seconds to detect the bluetooth after the car is started. Maybe it's my crappy phone.
-I have never executed car surgery without at least one "oh I'm a dumbass" moment.......until now. This is a cakewalk and you should NEVER pay someone to do this for you. Hope this noob's input helps.
 

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I am considering the same options, but I will probably go for the $130 harness because I don't have the stomach to go clipping speaker wires everywhere.
 
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