Oil Analysis: Penzoil Platinum 5w30 - 3573 miles
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[quote author=Cain link=topic=135820.msg2924960#msg2924960 date=1234227279]
How did you get your analysis? I've been wanting to send my oil samples off for a long time. Please tell me where and how and phone numbers, addresses, ect.. Cost?
[/quote]
blackstone-labs.com
How did you get your analysis? I've been wanting to send my oil samples off for a long time. Please tell me where and how and phone numbers, addresses, ect.. Cost?
[/quote]
blackstone-labs.com
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10,739 Posts
^ he has an aftermarket turbo kit, definitely needs the 5w30. Wear levels look really really good man! How hard do you drive?
[quote author=D Bone link=topic=135820.msg2925158#msg2925158 date=1234230375]
Wow, that full synthetic 5w-30 sheared down to a 20wt in under 4K? Not real impressive as far as that goes. Everything else looks OK though. I would just stick to a 5w-20 and be done with it.
Darryl
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How do you know it sheared down to a 20wt? Could you please explain? I don't really understand the report.
[quote author=cali_axela link=topic=135820.msg2925172#msg2925172 date=1234230584]
^ he has an aftermarket turbo kit, definitely needs the 5w30. Wear levels look really really good man! How hard do you drive?
[/quote]
I drive pretty hard sometimes but only when it is fully warmed up. And I make sure it is fully warmed up before going into any boost.
Wow, that full synthetic 5w-30 sheared down to a 20wt in under 4K? Not real impressive as far as that goes. Everything else looks OK though. I would just stick to a 5w-20 and be done with it.
Darryl
[/quote]
How do you know it sheared down to a 20wt? Could you please explain? I don't really understand the report.
[quote author=cali_axela link=topic=135820.msg2925172#msg2925172 date=1234230584]
^ he has an aftermarket turbo kit, definitely needs the 5w30. Wear levels look really really good man! How hard do you drive?
[/quote]
I drive pretty hard sometimes but only when it is fully warmed up. And I make sure it is fully warmed up before going into any boost.
The cSt viscosity @100C is 9.2, and that is right on the boarder of a low 30wt, and a high 20wt viscosity. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=48&Itemid=55 If your car was stock, I would not be impressed how the PP held its viscosity, but considering the turbo, it's not too bad. Everything else looks good!
[quote author=D Bone link=topic=135820.msg2925405#msg2925405 date=1234234594]
The cSt viscosity @100C is 9.2, and that is right on the boarder of a low 30wt, and a high 20wt viscosity. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=48&Itemid=55 If your car was stock, I would not be impressed how the PP held its viscosity, but considering the turbo, it's not too bad. Everything else looks good!
[/quote]
oic... Thee cSt viscosity @100C of PP 5w30 starts out at 10.2. So... do you think it would be wiser to go to a 40wt?
The cSt viscosity @100C is 9.2, and that is right on the boarder of a low 30wt, and a high 20wt viscosity. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=48&Itemid=55 If your car was stock, I would not be impressed how the PP held its viscosity, but considering the turbo, it's not too bad. Everything else looks good!
[/quote]
oic... Thee cSt viscosity @100C of PP 5w30 starts out at 10.2. So... do you think it would be wiser to go to a 40wt?
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Here's my report from the first change after installing the turbo. Considering it was tuned on this oil and autocrossed at several events, i think it's pretty good, but the main wear metals are still much higher than yours. My viscosity was still right at the expected level for a 30wt... yours does seem quite a bit too low. Also look how much higher my flashpoint is. I sent in my second UOA sample last week so hopefully it comes back looking even better as far as wear metals go.
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The universal averages on mine are correct for our normal 2.3L engine, so you can compare your numbers to these averages to get a better idea of where you're at compared to stock.
Also just curious, when in the oil stream did you take out your sample, and was the engine fully warmed up? Apparently it can make a big difference in the results: http://www.blackstone-labs.com/gas_sampling.html (i made sure to follow all these tips closely)
The universal averages on mine are correct for our normal 2.3L engine, so you can compare your numbers to these averages to get a better idea of where you're at compared to stock.
Also just curious, when in the oil stream did you take out your sample, and was the engine fully warmed up? Apparently it can make a big difference in the results: http://www.blackstone-labs.com/gas_sampling.html (i made sure to follow all these tips closely)
[quote author=cali_axela link=topic=135820.msg2925539#msg2925539 date=1234237003]
Here's my report from the first change after installing the turbo. Considering it was tuned on this oil and autocrossed at several events, i think it's pretty good, but the main wear metals are still much higher than yours. My viscosity was still right at the expected level for a 30wt... yours does seem quite a bit too low. Also look how much higher my flashpoint is. I sent in my second UOA sample last week so hopefully it comes back looking even better as far as wear metals go.
The universal averages on mine are correct for our normal 2.3L engine, so you can compare your numbers to these averages to get a better idea of where you're at compared to stock.
Also just curious, when in the oil stream did you take out your sample, and was the engine fully warmed up? Apparently it can make a big difference in the results: http://www.blackstone-labs.com/gas_sampling.html (i made sure to follow all these tips closely)
[/quote]
I see... You are using a better oil than me. Redline ftw! But PP is cheap and does its job. I drove 30min+ to get it fully warmed up, then I came back and parked in the garage. I installed my rear MM which was about 20-30 min, then I went and changed the oil. The oil was still pretty hot and I didn't start it up again, so that shouldn't matter. I took the sample in the middle of the oil coming out. I tried to follow the instructions as much as I can.
[quote author=Galvatron link=topic=135820.msg2925564#msg2925564 date=1234237360]
Here my first one. I also ran PP.
[/quote]
Wow your viscosity is lower @ 8.49... Anyone know how PP compares to M1?
Here's my report from the first change after installing the turbo. Considering it was tuned on this oil and autocrossed at several events, i think it's pretty good, but the main wear metals are still much higher than yours. My viscosity was still right at the expected level for a 30wt... yours does seem quite a bit too low. Also look how much higher my flashpoint is. I sent in my second UOA sample last week so hopefully it comes back looking even better as far as wear metals go.
The universal averages on mine are correct for our normal 2.3L engine, so you can compare your numbers to these averages to get a better idea of where you're at compared to stock.
Also just curious, when in the oil stream did you take out your sample, and was the engine fully warmed up? Apparently it can make a big difference in the results: http://www.blackstone-labs.com/gas_sampling.html (i made sure to follow all these tips closely)
[/quote]
I see... You are using a better oil than me. Redline ftw! But PP is cheap and does its job. I drove 30min+ to get it fully warmed up, then I came back and parked in the garage. I installed my rear MM which was about 20-30 min, then I went and changed the oil. The oil was still pretty hot and I didn't start it up again, so that shouldn't matter. I took the sample in the middle of the oil coming out. I tried to follow the instructions as much as I can.
[quote author=Galvatron link=topic=135820.msg2925564#msg2925564 date=1234237360]
Here my first one. I also ran PP.
[/quote]
Wow your viscosity is lower @ 8.49... Anyone know how PP compares to M1?
Well, it looks like PP has a hard time standing up to a turbo, at least in terms of it's shear strength...........Maybe all those molecules aren't so "adaptive" after all. 
All joking aside, just because an oil shears out of grade, it doesn't automatically make it a bad oil. Heck, most conventional 5w-30's shear to a 20wt in 5K too.
That being said, if I were running a turbo car, be it OEM or after market, and lived in SoCal, I would run German Castrol (GC) 0w-30 which is a high 30wt (12cSt), Mobil 1 0w-40 which is a low 40wt (14cSt) or one of the "boutique oils" like Redline, Torco, Royal Purple, ect..
You should be able to find GC at any AutoZone, and only AZ. M1 0w-40 can be had at Pep Boys, WalMart, AZ, ect... As for the other oils, they are usually found at either race shops, or mom-n-pop auto parts stores, or online. RP can be found at PepBoys and AutoZone too. Amsoil is a good oil, but I personally am repulsed by their sales tactics, and would never use it, but that is just my opinion.
I would stay away from M1 right now, with the one and only exception being M1 0w-40. M1 is being thrashed around a bit right now, and on BITOG, there are reports of various WalMarts being ordered to send back all of the M1 because of a very quiet recall by Mobil............Real? I don't know, but something is up with M1, and it isn't good.
All joking aside, just because an oil shears out of grade, it doesn't automatically make it a bad oil. Heck, most conventional 5w-30's shear to a 20wt in 5K too. That being said, if I were running a turbo car, be it OEM or after market, and lived in SoCal, I would run German Castrol (GC) 0w-30 which is a high 30wt (12cSt), Mobil 1 0w-40 which is a low 40wt (14cSt) or one of the "boutique oils" like Redline, Torco, Royal Purple, ect..
You should be able to find GC at any AutoZone, and only AZ. M1 0w-40 can be had at Pep Boys, WalMart, AZ, ect... As for the other oils, they are usually found at either race shops, or mom-n-pop auto parts stores, or online. RP can be found at PepBoys and AutoZone too. Amsoil is a good oil, but I personally am repulsed by their sales tactics, and would never use it, but that is just my opinion.
I would stay away from M1 right now, with the one and only exception being M1 0w-40. M1 is being thrashed around a bit right now, and on BITOG, there are reports of various WalMarts being ordered to send back all of the M1 because of a very quiet recall by Mobil............Real? I don't know, but something is up with M1, and it isn't good.
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10,739 Posts
I buy my RedLine from Amazon.com
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23 Posts
[quote author=D Bone link=topic=135820.msg2926460#msg2926460 date=1234281877]
Amsoil is a good oil, but I personally am repulsed by their sales tactics, and would never use it, but that is just my opinion.
[/quote]
i'm curious as to what your grief with Amsoil sales tactics is.
Amsoil is a good oil, but I personally am repulsed by their sales tactics, and would never use it, but that is just my opinion.
[/quote]
i'm curious as to what your grief with Amsoil sales tactics is.
Anyone running a turbo on their MZ3 would be wise to upgrade to a quality synthetic oil with a slightly thicker viscosity such as Castrol Syntec 0W-30 or Mobil 1 0W-40, as noted above. The slightly thicker viscosity will better protect your engine from higher oil temperatures and/or fuel dilution of your oil.
[quote author=Artic Ice link=topic=135820.msg3010654#msg3010654 date=1237777323]
Anyone running a turbo on their MZ3 would be wise to upgrade to a quality synthetic oil with a slightly thicker viscosity such as Castrol Syntec 0W-30 or Mobil 1 0W-40, as noted above. The slightly thicker viscosity will better protect your engine from higher oil temperatures and/or fuel dilution of your oil.
[/quote]
ok... :roll:
Anyone running a turbo on their MZ3 would be wise to upgrade to a quality synthetic oil with a slightly thicker viscosity such as Castrol Syntec 0W-30 or Mobil 1 0W-40, as noted above. The slightly thicker viscosity will better protect your engine from higher oil temperatures and/or fuel dilution of your oil.
[/quote]
ok... :roll:
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