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[quote author=h0mersimps0n link=topic=75531.msg3232484#msg3232484 date=1247798104]
How about a DIY spark plug change?

It'd be nice to read about how people are removing the intercooler (is it as simple as the bolts I can see?) to get to what I assume underneith is the spark plugs?

How often is everyone changing their's anyway? 50K in the manual I believe I read.
[/quote]

removing the intercooler is easy. the 3 nuts that you see, and loosen the clamps on the boost tubes. comes right off.
 

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[quote author=Speed 3 Visionary link=topic=75531.msg3249040#msg3249040 date=1248702035]
Nothing on BOV install
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1. Remove engine cover (2-10mm bolts)
2. Compress the spring clamp on the vacuum/pressure source (ontop of the BOV/BPV)
3. Remove the 2 bolts holding the stock BOV/BPV (10mm I believe)
4. Compress the spring clamp on the recirc. tubing and pull the BOV/BPV off
5. Repeat the steps backwards to install/reinstall
 

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Does any one have a link on how to replace the fuel pump?
 

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MS3 headlight adjustment How-To?

The only instructions I've found here for headlight adjustment don't seem to fit the 2007 MS3. IS there another one? I see the hex-key adjustment, then another possible one covered with a white plastic cap....is that in fact the height adjustment, and if so, how do you get to it?
 

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really? I was reading through the shop manual and it didn't look to be too bad of a deal. I'm still trying and find more reference material, I plan on doing this install in about 3 - 5 months.
 

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[quote author=WhiteMs3 FTW! link=topic=75531.msg3599952#msg3599952 date=1270448507]
none of the links work?
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the links arent navigating correctly so copy and paste the link that it takes you to (it should start with "index.php?topic=") after mazda3forums . com/
 

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I ended up doing the HPFP (fuel pump) replacement. Here are the videos I made:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cUJaAvc4IFk#

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jVt7n28qPMI#

And instructions I was provided (These include replacing the internals, I got opted for a core exchange):

Tools; E8 inverted torx, 17&19mm open end wrenches, one zip tie, 18mm deep 3/8” socket and long handle ratchet, bench vice with soft jaws and possibly a second set of hands, needle nose pliers, small dish of gas, misc 10mm wrenches and sockets.
We have included rubber gloves. You must wear them when handling the internals and upon install also.

Start with the car cold preferably. Remove the smaller blue relay in the under hood fuse box that says “circuit“.
Start the car and it should die when the fuel pressure runs low in 10 seconds. (if not the car being cold means the gas can't really catch fire though it will spray out at high pressure)Remove the entire battery box/ecu and turbo inlet hose if you want to make things easier for yourself.
Locate the solid steel line under the CDFP and put a zip tie an inch under the 19mm nut..
Remove the 2 upper fuel lines and electrical connector.
The yellow clip hugs the plastic and has to be opened on both sides while slid out.
The blue clip has a twist motion to release the line.
Simultaneously use the 17mm open end to hold the lower base of the CDFP (this CAN NOT SPIN!!!) and the 19mm to break the nut loose (it will spin off easily once broken loose).
Use the E8 inverted torx to remove the 3 screws (back them out evenly as to not cock the spring loaded pump mechanism).
First pull the spring and stock plunger straight out of the pump. This is the stock plunger (left) and upgrade internals and stock spring (right).

Now support the pump in the bench vice a grab a buddy to steady this thing. Be careful of your lines and sealing surfaces against the vice. Remove the 18mm nut that is now exposed where the spring came off. Righty tighty and lefty loosey.

Now gently use needle nose pliers to lift the stock piston out. Notice the small shoulder and large shoulder on the piston. The large side points out towards you.

Now dip all the reused and new parts in gasoline and then slide the upgrade piston and shaft into the 18mm cap. The small end with the retainer groove will be outside the pump. It is unclear if the internals come with the pistons on the shafts already but make sure yours looks like pictured in the first steps above before forcing anything together.

With your finger push the shaft to reveal as much of the retainer groove side through the 18mm nut.

Now slide the spring over the external side of the shaft and seat it on the grove it originally came off of. The spring retainer goes on next with the centering dish going into the spring. Put on the 2 retainer halves and balance everything. Push the retainer end into the assembly jamming the retainer into the spring retainer. The spring is now centered and assembled like pictured below

Let this assembly sit in gasoline for a few minutes and take a breather if you want. This pic is out of order in the build sequence you should have the spring installed at this point before reassembly.

Make sure no foreign objects fell into your pump and begin to screw the assembled spring and piston assembly into the pump housing by hand.

Once you confident the threads are engaged properly put that deep 18mm over the whole spring and tighten down. Beware of the o-ring, fuel lines and now spring sticking up into the socket. I would say the pump is ready for reinstallation now. Put some fresh oil on the tip of the spring side that rides the camshaft and the o-ring. Use the 3 E-8’s to evenly and slowly draw the pump onto the head. Also be careful to not bend or mutilate the threads on the 17/19 mm stuff underneath by slightly wiggling the steel line downward to allow an even seating as the pump nears its final installed position. Make sure to hold the 17 and do not allow it to spin at all while putting the 19mm nut on. Do not cross thread the 19mm it will spin on freely by hand until the very last ½ turn.

If you made it this far I hope you can put everything else back together paying special attention to the turbo inlet hose being tightened down properly to the turbo.
You should disable the coil packs to allow the engine to crank and build up fuel pressure slightly before you just start the car up. There is a black or gray connector
right next to the coil on cylinder 4 that will disconnect them all. If all is well you will be up and running

Fuel Pump Break in Procedure

Step one:

Idle car for 20min

Step Two:

Drive car for next 100miles of just regular driving while fluctuating the rpm’s from 1000-5000
During this brake in procedure only use low boost.

Step Three:

Monitor Pump pressure during wide open throttle (if you have equipment to do so) if pressure drops repeat step two of brake in procedure.

If you are not equipped to monitor fuel pressure then you’re going to have to watch for key signs of fuel cut. At first sign of fuel cut you’ll need to repeat step two of brake in procedure.
 
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Sub'd. Excellent thread. Now that I'm out of warranty I can start having some fun. Received my CP-E RMM today, will go in this weekend... sooner depending on the weather and if I can sneak out of work early one day :)
 

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Just wondering if anyone else is having any issues pulling up the link'd threads for the "how-to"s?

It tells me my browser cannot display the page requested for some of them and then allows me to see others...
 

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Just wondering if anyone else is having any issues pulling up the link'd threads for the "how-to"s?

It tells me my browser cannot display the page requested for some of them and then allows me to see others...
Admins or OP needs to redo 75% of the links because they changed over the forum DB and they don't use /index.php as the initial page anymore. Most likely for SEO purposes, but regardless...

You guys have a stickied thread with several broken links.
I think all of the cosmetic links are broken.
 
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