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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
It will show battery voltage. You should maybe check the ground wire at the crank sensor too. Having 0v there just shows it doesn’t have a short to voltage, not that it’s connected to ground.
Ok I put my leads on the positive terminal on the battery and then put my other lead in the ground coil connecter and got 0 then I put my lead on the negative terminal and got 3.7. This is stuff is very confusing to me, does that mean I have a good ground or no?
 

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That doesn’t sound like anything that it should be. The coils have a constant 12v, a constant ground and the trigger. So even the 3.7v doesn’t make any sense. With the red lead on the + battery terminal and the black in the ground pin of the coil connectors it should read the same as if you were just connecting both leads to the battery. You could also try putting the red lead in the power supply pin at the coil connector with the black lead in the ground pin of the coil connector. Either way it should read close to battery voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
That doesn’t sound like anything that it should be. The coils have a constant 12v, a constant ground and the trigger. So even the 3.7v doesn’t make any sense. With the red lead on the + battery terminal and the black in the ground pin of the coil connectors it should read the same as if you were just connecting both leads to the battery. You could also try putting the red lead in the power supply pin at the coil connector with the black lead in the ground pin of the coil connector. Either way it should read close to battery voltage.
Well I got bad news lol, it only read 3.7 and that was with the red probe on the + battery and the negative in the connector where the ground would go, and then I did what u said which was to put the negative probe on the - side of the battery and took the positive probe and stuck it in the connector where the cable would be getting power and it read 0.00v.
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
That doesn’t sound like anything that it should be. The coils have a constant 12v, a constant ground and the trigger. So even the 3.7v doesn’t make any sense. With the red lead on the + battery terminal and the black in the ground pin of the coil connectors it should read the same as if you were just connecting both leads to the battery. You could also try putting the red lead in the power supply pin at the coil connector with the black lead in the ground pin of the coil connector. Either way it should read close to battery voltage.
Well I forgot to mention I didn’t have the key on… I feel like I was suppose to turn the key on. Lol
 

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Well I got bad news lol, it only read 3.7 and that was with the red probe on the + battery and the negative in the connector where the ground would go, and then I did what u said which was to put the negative probe on the - side of the battery and took the positive probe and stuck it in the connector where the cable would be getting power and it read 0.00v.
That’s really weird that it’s only reading 3.7v. What is the battery voltage right now?


Well I forgot to mention I didn’t have the key on… I feel like I was suppose to turn the key on. Lol
I’m guessing that the key probably needs to be on when checking for 12v at the power supply pin but it wouldn’t matter when checking the ground pin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
That’s really weird that it’s only reading 3.7v. What is the battery voltage right now?



I’m guessing that the key probably needs to be on when checking for 12v at the power supply pin but it wouldn’t matter when checking the ground pin.
Well with the ground it definitely showed 3.7v… so if it’s not suppose to be showing that then it might be that wire that I said ripped when I pulled the engine out, obviously I put the wire back together with electrical tape, that might be the issue if it’s not suppose to show that number when testing the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Yes I think fixing that ground and rechecking is a very good place to start. Maybe also verifying that all other grounds are all connected securely as well
Ok that’s what I’ll do, I had to order some butt connectors to fit this cable so it will be here the 22nd and I’ll get back with u to see if that works or not
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Yes I think fixing that ground and rechecking is a very good place to start. Maybe also verifying that all other grounds are all connected securely as well
Well I just wanted to make sure that it might be that ground cable, I pulled the cable off of the tranny and turned the engine over and it’s doing the same thing, so I’m hoping with that, that it might be that ground that’s not getting a good connection because like I said it’s doing the same thing so it’s like I didn’t even took anything off, when I took off the cable. Hopefully that makes sense lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Yes I think fixing that ground and rechecking is a very good place to start. Maybe also verifying that all other grounds are all connected securely as well
Ok so the ground wire didn’t fix it but now it’s hooked up, I was looking around the engine when I saw a wire just hanging with no connector on it, I began to look for a connector and it turns out that wire is suppose to be connected to the oil pressure sensor, would that cause the engine to not start?


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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
With those kinds of codes I would suspect that there is a connector or connectors still not plugged in properly.
Hmmm I’m so lost because every connector is plugged it, I pulled it so I know where all the connectors are and there all plugged in, except one but that one is for the exhaust pipe for the sensor, that wasn’t plugged in before when it started so I know that can’t be it.


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